Try this: FBCS-22-2D.A
Bill of Materials
1. (1) oscilloscope, with (1) probe
2. (1) 25 ft. length, 22 gauge solid, "hook-up & lead wire"
3. (2) old CDs, (Revision A: Use clear CDs; less the metallic layer.)
4. adhesive tape (optional)
5. super-glue, cyanoacrylate (optional)
Assembly (I basically made a flat-bifilar-coil sandwich.)
1. Start with one slice of CD.
2. Completely cover surface of CD with wire as shown in Figure 2 of Nikola Tesla's, US Patent 512,340, "COIL FOR ELECTRO MAGNETS."
http://www.google.com/patents?vid=USPAT512340 (http://www.google.com/patents?vid=USPAT512340)
3. I used paper tape, cyanoacrylate glue, bits of skin from my fingertips, and some profanity to fix the wires to the CD. It worked but there must be a better way! I started at the center and worked my way out to the edge, or 'crust.'
4. I then removed most of the paper tape, except adhesive layers stuck to the glue, then I added more glue dressing over the top of the wires.
5. Cover with second slice of CD, weight the top, and wait for glue to dry.
6. Connect wires together as shown in Figure 2 of patent above. It is simple, but easy to screw-up. We could get one 'spiral' connected to itself and end up testing only half of the 'embodiment.' Luckily, the inner and outer edges of the CD are clear, so we can distinguish the outer-spiral wire from the inner-spiral wire.
Now we have a flat-bifilar-coil-sandwich. Since I used 22 gauge wire and 2 CDs, I will call it the: FBCS-22-2D design.
Testing
1. Connection: There are two ways to place the FBCS-22-2D on a flat surface and two ways to wire it to the 'scope. We wire it one way and if we do not see results then we flip the FBCS-22-2D over. If flipping it over is too much for us we could also switch the wires. But if we flip the unit over and switch the wires we return to the same condition.
In a horizontal configuration, I found reception to be much stronger with the scope leads connected in either one of two ways:
a. the red-probe-tip connected at center wire, (outer-spiral wire,) with counter-clockwise rotation as viewed from the top, or
b. the red-probe-tip connected at edge, (inner-spiral wire,) wire with clockwise rotation as viewed from the top.
Your results may very in the southern hemisphere there, Lindsay.
Yes, this FBCS-22-2D is inversion sensitive. Remind us of anything?
2. Oscilloscope Settings: TIME/DIV = 0.1 ?S/D, (VOLTS/DIV = 5 mV/D), AC setting
3. My Graticule Results: Sine Wave: DIV/CYCLE = 7 D/C, (~10 mV p-t-p)
4. Calculate Frequency: (1 C / 7 D)(1 D / 0.1 ?S) = 1,430,000 C/S = 1.43 MHz
5. Search frequency online: "?1.43 MHz which corresponds to the electron gyrofrequency in the Earth?s magnetic field at 200 km altitude."
http://www.ann-geophys.net/23/101/2005/angeo-23-101-2005.pdf (http://www.ann-geophys.net/23/101/2005/angeo-23-101-2005.pdf)
Of what use is a free 10 mV peak-to-peak sine wave oscillating with Earth's magnetic field?
UPDATE: Wondering if the aluminum layer in the CDs was helping or hurting, I decided to add CDs two at a time; one on top and one on the bottom of the FBCS-22-2D.
I find that the strength of this frequency varies from time to time and that my body seems to be an antenna. When I place my hand over the unit the amplitude will begin to increase at a distance of about two inches and increases two or three fold as my hand comes into contact and I apply more pressure.
If I place a small puddle of water on the top of the unit and just touch the puddle with what is left of my glue-battered finger-tip I get a sudden increase in amplitude as well.
Anyway, as I add the extra layers of CD's to the unit the amplitude gets smaller and smaller with each successive layer.
So, I recommend using the clear CDs from now on.
UPDATE: I just broke off [removed by breaking] the top CD. [The unit is fine.]
Tonight I am getting weaker signals than last night. The peak-to-peak was dropping down to about 6 mV and, even though I am using the lowest VOLTS/DIV setting, the sine wave tracking was hard for my scope to follow and I would intermittently see a wide fizzy band until I placed my hand over the unit, slightly increasing the amplitude, and the sine wave would pop back onto screen.
With the top CD removed I am getting a steady 10 mV peak-to-peak just like last night with the top CD on.
UPDATE: 16/JAN/07
The FBC-30-4W was a failure. Seven hours winding shot in the ass. No strong signals detected.
The FBCS-22-2D.A turns out to be accidentally tuned to 4600 kHz AM, not 4300 kHz as originally calculated.
I calculate that I should have seen 6.85 divisions, for 4600 kHz, instead of the 7.0 divisions, for 4300 kHz, that I thought I saw on my scope. I took a second look and it looks like maybe 6.9 divisions at the least. Close enough; 2.1% error in my original reading.
I confirmed my theory tonight. I hooked up FBCS-22-2D.A again to my scope but this time I adjusted to the 2 mS / DIV range. Pulled my AM radio out of the garage, tuned to 4600 AM and watched my scope. Guess what?
Video attached just below pictures below. [I need to try to reconvert the video again! I lost the sound! >:( The video is useless without sound. Why can't I upload my "3g2" video clip,... with the sound? There may never be a video posted here. Anyway, it showed the mixing signals on the scope "dancing" to the radio station's music.]
Hi,
Thanks for the interesting infos.
Would you place a capacitor of 30-50pF in parallel with your wire endings (just the wires you connect the scope probe to)?
A variable capacitor of 200-500pF would be even better to tune the pancake coil and see if the amplitude of the present 10mVpp changes.
Wonder what formula you used to calculate the frequency of 1.43MHz. Is it included somewhere on the web?
Regards
Gyula
.
Quote from: gyulasun on January 13, 2007, 02:06:22 PM
Hi,
Thanks for the interesting infos.
Would you place a capacitor of 30-50pF in parallel with your wire endings (just the wires you connect the scope probe to)?
A variable capacitor of 200-500pF would be even better to tune the pancake coil and see if the amplitude of the present 10mVpp changes.
Wonder what formula you used to calculate the frequency of 1.43MHz. Is it included somewhere on the web?
Regards
Gyula
I will check my ultra-limited and disorganized supply of capacitors.
I do not know if we can rightly call unit conversion ratios a fully grown 'formula'.
Quote from: argona369 on January 13, 2007, 02:14:23 PM
Very cool.
What about adding a variable Cap to that to turn it into a LC circuit
tuned to resonate at 1.43 MHz ?
Again, I will see what I can do about adding the caps.
For resonance, I was thinking about controlling the length of the wire to a division of the mysteriously calculated wavelength of 688 ft. Perhaps half at 344 ft., or a quarter at 172 ft. I can probably fit it on a CD if I use smaller gauge mag-wire.
Spherenot
Great work.
Never did that myself, can you give us some details?
(Lenght of wire, more or less, because I would like to compare with a "normal" coil.)
Capacitance
Resistance
and indutance of the coil.
please if you can, so that we can work with numbers on this side. Many thanks.
Do you think it would work in a cilinder type also insted of a flat coil? There's a lot of stuff behind close doors.
.
Quote from: Yamanashi Jr on January 13, 2007, 02:38:30 PM
...can you give us some details?
(Lenght of wire, more or less, because I would like to...)
::)
Long story. I initially miscalculated length and thought I needed fifty feet to fill a CD. I was not sure I had enough on my spool so I quickly tried to count one foot at a time with a fat finger error at each foot. I ran out before fifty feet.
I had thirty something, not sure. So, I thought I would just fill as much of the CD as I could. I did; I had extra wire. What a surprise!
I removed the extra wire, about a dozen feet or so. I did not measure it because it did not matter without an accurate initial length. My bad. (I will not make this mistake on my second unit.)
I went back over my calculations, saw my blunder, and recalculated the length as shown in post one.
By the way, there are no more details. It is simply a pancake coil attached to an oscilloscope,... for now.
Quote from: argona369 on January 13, 2007, 02:45:02 PM
Also LC circuit should be tunable to 1.43 somewhat regardless of wire length?
I suppose. I would rather find a way to control the cut length instead of adding more parts,... for now.
@Spherenot,
Of what use is a free 10 mV peak-to-peak sine wave oscillating with Earth's magnetic field?
I think you've hit the Motherlode!
I was surprised when I put 2 pancakes together and got ringing so easly. I followed Tesla's MT patent that Marco/turbo had pointed out. That is where I got 22 turns for my GK4 core. I wound 2, 2 layer(speaker wire pair) pancakes and pulsed 1 line from the outside and the coupled that inside line back to the second layery outside. Then took the output from the second layer inside. So the coils pulsed from the outside fed back out and then back into the center. So you have a magnetic toroidial wave squeezing towards the center with a secondary wave behind it. I tried it from the center to the outside and didn't see anything. Probably no squeezing going on.
Cheap to do and took 20 minutes.
--giantkiller.
Quote from: giantkiller on January 13, 2007, 03:19:34 PM
@Spherenot,
Of what use is a free 10 mV peak-to-peak sine wave oscillating with Earth's magnetic field?
I think you've hit the Motherlode!
--giantkiller.
Thanks, GK. :)
Those clips you see in the pic's go straight to the 'scope. The planet Earth, (or HAARP,) is powering my coil. Not useful power levels but useful for finding 1.43 MHz. I am happy you persuaded me to get the scope. :'(
I have a long way to go. Baby steps here.
@Spherenot,
You're welcome, on the scope. No more looking at blanks walls, eh?
Well if I don't achieve anything esle, that was worth it!
---giantkiller.
I think I have got another way of winding this coil:
1. Take the two clear disks you get from a stack of blank CDRs.
2. Put them onto the spindle and drill a 4mm hole on the inside of the rib near the CD centre.
3. Put a 4mm bolt into this hole and drill 3 more holes at 90, 180, 270 degrees (first hole at 0 degrees).
4. Drill two small holes the diameter of your wire just outside the rib say 180 degrees apart.
5. feed two wires into these holes.
6. Add the remaining bolts.
7. Wind the coil whilst gripping the disks, do not allow the wires to twist inside the disks.
8. Tape the ends off to the edge of the disk.
Because the disks are clear this may not allow the experiment to work but you can see the coil while you wind it.
Dip the whole lot in water, shake it, then put it in the freezer. The extreme cold will cause the plastic to harden into its set shape and the water between the windings will bind them together.
Give it an hour or so, take it out, carefully pop the disks off the coil and replace with normal CDs.
I have been toying with various ideas for winding pancake coils for a few weeks now.
Two 1cm thick acrylic disks would be even better as a winding former as they do not flex.
I have been trying to figure out various ways to glue the windings in place as they are wound, without them sticking to the former, so that I can re-use the former for more coils.
Ideas like dipping the wire in varnish just before it is wound onto the former.
If I rub some wax onto the former halves before it is assembled it will not cause the varnish to stick to it. But will the varnish go off in a confined space with no air getting to it?
May need to experiment.
Regards
Rob
Quote from: kingrs on January 13, 2007, 06:11:57 PM
I have been toying with various ideas for winding pancake coils for a few weeks now.
Two 1cm thick acrylic disks would be even better as a winding former as they do not flex.
Yes. I was thinking of winding inside a narrow gap as well. We need rigidity along the whole radius of the back of the CD's; perhaps three or more right angle gussets.
Any flexing will allow the outer-spiral-wire the opportunity to slip past the inner-spiral-wire.
Another method to remedy this slipping may be the use of a flat profile wire.
Also, I would like someone to try it without the aluminum in the CD; using the clear CDs. I do not know if the aluminum layer helped or hurt my results. UPDATE: I tested this. See first post for update. Recommend using clear CDs from now on.
I think a very repeatable method to do this winding would be to have a etch PC boad of the pattern like a double Archimedean spiral. A PC board would allow for multiple layers and a flat wire profile. A layer could be a clockwise pattern against a counterclockwise pattern. A PC board would also allow for various line thicknesses. Years ago I did a Archimedean spiral PC board using a program called Graph Paper Printer. I think the program is now free and unsupported (at least the web sire is dead) but it only allowed a single Archimedean spiral. Perhaps someone here could do a dual Archimedean spiral layout for a PC board so everyone could have a common starting point.
Tom G:)
Hi Spherenot,
Yes, here it is, see photo below.
If you earth the +ve side of the scope input you can get a 1V peak-to-peak.
On 2uS division you get a pulse followed by a decreasing amplitude of pulses for about 3 divisions.
If you apply a 1K resistor across the input the amplitude goes down, but not that much.
If I sandwich normal CDs either side the amplitude is not as strong.
You are better off with an open coil. I think the aluminum introduces unwanted coil capacitance.
I think if connect several together in series I may be able to light an LED.
It does work though, very impressive.
The scope shot is 0.2V /div so thats about 0.9 V
Regards
Rob
Quote from: kingrs on January 13, 2007, 07:55:52 PM
Yes, here it is, see photo below.
Okay, I will not be posting the picture of my device with the top CD broken off. Your picture is much more pleasing to the eye. 8)
kingrs: Place the device between your palms. Do you see an amplitude increase as well?
One more thing. When I place my device on a steel slide-out surface of my old steel desk, I see an irregular waveform pattern with a lower amplitude and a higher frequency.
Your waveform does not look like a smooth sine wave. Try placing the unit on your knee. Put your hand on top. Do you get a higher amplitude sine wave?
When I do this my amplitude jumps to 50 mV peak-to-peak. I did not mention this larger value in my initial post because of my human interference. When I place the unit away from the steel desk and away from me I get a steady 10 mV.
What strange things are you seeing?
What frequency are you getting with your 'body' antenna?
I was experimenting with pancake coil (tesla patent)
I am using copper tape like:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Guitar-pickup-self-adhesive-copper-foil-tape-sheilding_W0QQitemZ270076479422QQihZ017QQcategoryZ42455QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
It is easy to play with.
Amazing increase of magnetic field from same numbers of turns.
I will try thre coils to connect instead of two.
Best George
(5280 feet/mile) * (186,282 miles/second) / (1.43x10^6 cycles/second) = 688 foot cycles
I want to make a new unit using 688 feet of wire, which I calculate to be the wavelength of 1.43 MHz above.
But, as usual, I get these ideas on Saturday night. Everything is closed on Sunday. I have 200 feet of 30 ga. mag-wire available tonight. I am thinking of making FBCS-30-4W. The 4W stands for 1/4 wavelength of 688 / 4 = 172 feet.
I wish I had two spools of this wire so I could fix them both overhead on a rod and feed then to the pancake as needed. I may not be making a new coil this weekend until I get me some more spools-o-wire. :-[
Have fun. Good night.
.
I am wondering if maybe, just maybe the 1.43mhz wave you are seeing could be a local AM broadcast station (1430khz = 1.43mhz). Have you tried to demodulate the signal by attaching an audio amp to listen, or checked your local spectrum with a radio?
Just a thought,
RD
Quote from: argona369 on January 13, 2007, 10:10:47 PM
That?s the velocity in free space though.(it will be to long)
You want to compensate for velocity running through wire,,
Try Google search for ?antenna calculator?
And don?t be surprised that different calculators give different numbers.
I should have looked into this before I built pancake number two last night,? and this morning.
Yes I did it. All 172 feet of it using 30 gauge enamel-coated magnet wire.
I fixed a broom to the garage wall and a large C-clamp to the workbench last night at a measured distance of 21 feet 7.5 inches apart. I looped the wire around the broom and the clamp 8 times, for a total of 173 feet. (I wanted an extra foot to give me more options in cleaning-up the final connections.) I cut this in half as I wound each half on it's own spool.
I fixed the spools on a axle overhead. It did not feel right; the wires would be pulling up. So, I fixed the spools to my right instead. Much better. (But, as I learned later, they were too far away. The wires coiled off the spools and acted like springs. They would pull the freshly laid wires up over the pancake-coil before the super-glue had time to dry.)
I carefully arranged and taped my central lead wires on the back, (with hub ridge,) of a clear CD, through the hole. I flip over the disk, uncrossing the wires that lead to each spool, as planned, and pat myself on the back.
I took a deep breath before starting to wind and noticed how much wire was on them spools. I looked at the CD. I looked at the spools again. Hmm, I never did calculate how much radius I would need for this trick. I was assuming that skinny-ass 30 gauge wire would fit. Calculation showed?
I needed another 5.7 mm radius on the CD. Whew! I was sure glad I ran that calculation before I cracked open that glue.
My Easter-egg hunt for a replacement yielded only paper plates. (There goes my naming convention.) I found the center and drilled thru four plates. I epoxied a laminate of two plates with weights to maintain flatness and rigidity. I used the other two plates underneath for extra support during assembly.
I threw together a quick fixture with six-too many screws I thought I would need for 'hold down wires' crisscrossing over the growing pancake. I ended up not trying this feature fearing the glue would stick to these wires. But, three of the screws came in handy for other fixturing methods later on.
Two screws were reused as spool posts when I moved the spools to the fixture to reduce that annoying spring action I was getting while winding. This worked.
I fixed a magnet and two washers to a third screw to guide the wires from the spools, which were further away, to the edge of the plate surface. Later, I used one wire between screws to hold the wire closer to the plate surface. Blah, blah, blah about the fixture. (Photos included.)
Anyway, I went to bed this morning at 4:30 AM. Pancake half wound. Up again at 9:00 AM winding. Finished. Seven hours just winding with a chopstick and superglue.
My right eye is blurry. It may have received too many super-clue vapors. Yes, this makes typing difficult. My body hurts.
"Uncle,"? for now.
Quote from: retrod on January 14, 2007, 10:45:41 AM
I am wondering if maybe, just maybe the 1.43mhz wave you are seeing could be a local AM broadcast station (1430khz = 1.43mhz). Have you tried to demodulate the signal by attaching an audio amp to listen, or checked your local spectrum with a radio?
Just a thought,
RD
1460 kHz and 1480 kHz are strong stations around here. Do you think that one or both of these is the source of the sine wave?
When I tune to 1430 kHz I hear a faint blending of many stations.
How do I demodulate the signal by attaching an audio amp to listen?
I just got my scope. Maybe all I did was make an antenna.
Can someone please show us how to do just that; make a simple antenna for an oscilloscope so we can "see" an AM radio broadcast?
Attached is a schematic of a simple crystal radio. The diode is a 1N34. Lets say you don't need the cap or external antenna because you are making a coil tuned to the precise frequency. The speaker shown is normally a high impedance crystal earphone. As you can see the simple set needs no other energy to operate, it comes from the stations transmitter. I think you can attach an audio amp in place of the crystal earphone as a test to hear the signal. I have heard of crystal sets being built with large inductors that can actually light an LED when tuned to a carrier, I have not seen this in person or know of a schematic on-line. It would be a neat trick if it could be accomplished.
RD
Hi Spherenot,
Very impressive winding that many turns onto the back of a paper plate!
Try your scope on some of the lower frequency settings.
I think it may have been 1ms/div.
I saw what looked like a train of square blocks of two different sizes.
I think you could use some ordinary CDs as the variable capacitor, just slide them in and out across the windings to increase/decrease the capacitance.
Or make and air spaced variable capacitor from some sheets of 0.4 - 1mm aluminium, bolts + washers or spacers.
Even some copper clad board would work.
Then you need a signal diode as shown in the diagram.
Using a set of PC speakers with a built in amp should work to amplify the output enough, certainly my Logitech speakers give off a loud mains hum if you unplug then from the sound card and touch the 3.5mm jack plug.
You may need to check you have any wifi kit turned off too.
Regards
Rob
Quote from: retrod on January 14, 2007, 09:31:05 PM
Attached is a schematic of a simple crystal radio. The diode is a 1N34. Lets say you don't need the cap or external antenna because you are making a coil tuned to the precise frequency. The speaker shown is normally a high impedance crystal earphone. As you can see the simple set needs no other energy to operate, it comes from the stations transmitter. I think you can attach an audio amp in place of the crystal earphone as a test to hear the signal. I have heard of crystal sets being built with large inductors that can actually light an LED when tuned to a carrier, I have not seen this in person or know of a schematic on-line. It would be a neat trick if it could be accomplished.
RD
here is what they call an "ambient power module"
it supose to put out 36 volt/9 watts.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5mpYl3Yk8a8 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5mpYl3Yk8a8)
http://peswiki.com/index.php/OS:Ambient_Energy_Collection_Device (http://peswiki.com/index.php/OS:Ambient_Energy_Collection_Device)
http://www.angelfire.com/ak5/energy21/ambientpower.htm (http://www.angelfire.com/ak5/energy21/ambientpower.htm)
36 Volts and 9 Watts is very much overexagerated...
Maybe during a very heavy thunderstorm and with a
very long and high antenna, but not normally.
Have a look at the "Stromsauger":
http://www.t-spark.de
He could only light up a few LEDs very dimmly
with it and the power is normally only in the mikro to milliwatts
range...
Otherwise you would need an antenna with electret effect
to attract free electrons, then you could gain some
more charge and so some more output power...
Regards, Stefan.
gyulasun & argona369, I still need to locate those pF cap's and variable cap's that you asked me to try. Is this something in which you both are still interested in seeing?
Yamanashi Jr, have you tried a cilinder type also insted of a flat coil?
pucella, how is that copper tape working out for you?
retrod, thanks for the crystal radio schematic. I had been meaning to look this up for a time.
kingrs: "Try your scope on some of the lower frequency settings.
I think it may have been 1ms/div.
I saw what looked like a train of square blocks of two different sizes."
I did this. The only time I see what you are seeing at 1 ms/div is when I disconnect my coil. Do you have continuity throughout your replication?
However, when my coil is connected at this 1 ms/div setting I see packets of waves seeming to move in both directions on my scope. These may be radio waves. I will try to find a way to jack my coil to an off-the shelf amp.
Your waveform does not look like a smooth sine wave. Try placing the unit on your knee, after checking continuity. Put your hand on top. Do you get a higher amplitude sine wave?
What frequency are you getting with your 'body' antenna?
The FBCS-22-2D.A has a measured resistance value of 0.3 ~ 0.5 ohms. (~25 feet--22 gauge solid hook-up & lead wire)
The FBC-30-4W has a measured resistance value of 18.2 ~ 18.4 ohms. (171 ft., 8 in.--30 gauge enamel-coated magnet wire)
I will post pic's and results of the completed FBC-30-4W later.
Anyone care to guess which device picks up a stronger signal?
Quote from: Spherenot on January 15, 2007, 11:13:47 AM
gyulasun & argona369, I still need to locate those pF cap's and variable cap's that you asked me to try. Is this something in which you both are still interested in seeing?
....Anyone care to guess which device picks up a stronger signal?
Hi,
Yes because this way you could make sure you tune to the biggest signal amplitude just like in case of a parallel tuned resonant circuit is fed by a signal generator and you search for voltage maximum by turning the knob of the generator.
Because your scope input capacitance is around 30-40pF this adds in parallel to your pancake coil and make it off-tuned, even if you use a 10:1 probe, it has a 14-15pF self capacitance too and cause off-tuning with respect to your calculated resonant frequency.
Your FBC-30-4W coil is supposed to pick up a stronger signal, however I wonder it will be of the same frequency like that comes from FBCS-22-2D ??
thanks
Gyula
.
Quote from: Spherenot on January 15, 2007, 11:13:47 AM
Yamanashi Jr, have you tried a cilinder type also insted of a flat coil?
No, I did not. I'm just wondering... Can't we use them on toroidal form?
I am just relating this (coils) to the work of Tesla, Coler, and SM(?)/Mannix.
It wall depends the way you are going. In my humble opinion it's ok to have a signal in the antenna, it's very good if I can light a lightbulb with it, but maybe not if it's interfering with the 7.83 Hz: Earth resonance frequency. I don't want to mess with your work to much,
you give a lot of new ideas.(chek Topic: frequencies and claimed associations)
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=1792.msg22017;topicseen#msg22017
[Why can I not upload a palm ".3g2" file extension video clip,... with the sound? There may never be a video posted here. Anyway, it showed the mixing signals on the scope "dancing" to the radio station's music.]
I think I accidentally made a tuned AM antenna with the Tesla flat coil. >:(
I doubt that I will be taking this series any further. I need to recharge my own personal batteries. :-\
I will start by finishing my read of this, http://amasci.com/tesla/tesceive.html (http://amasci.com/tesla/tesceive.html), posted on another thread here.
Thanks for playing along! 8)
UPDATE: 11/FEB/07
I can now post that video with sound in it's original format! :) :) :)
When your done reading those links here is another one with new EM equations!
http://www.crossedfieldantenna.com/pages/EM_eq.html
RD
I found out that I am close to an AM transmitter. I can not seem to find a circuit that will draw any useful power. :(
Anyway, I found a neat use for those plastic child chopstick holders that I will openly share with everyone. Has anyone seen this before?
I find it hard to believe that I "went there" first. There is a lot of parallel thinking out there.
Hey, everyone, Spherenot was finally able to post the AM coil video.
http://www.overunity.com/index.php/topic,1891.30.html
Quote from: Spherenot on January 16, 2007, 07:56:32 PM
[Why can I not upload a palm ".3g2" file extension video clip,... with the sound? There may never be a video posted here. Anyway, it showed the mixing signals on the scope "dancing" to the radio station's music.]
I think I accidentally made a tuned AM antenna with the Tesla flat coil. >:(
I doubt that I will be taking this series any further. I need to recharge my own personal batteries. :-\
I will start by finishing my read of this, http://amasci.com/tesla/tesceive.html (http://amasci.com/tesla/tesceive.html), posted on another thread here.
Thanks for playing along! 8)
UPDATE: 11/FEB/07
I can now post that video with sound in it's original format! :) :) :)