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Hi,
have  a look at these videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDPPWyVswMQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4t4mUIBkhFc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJd9ichbiFU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FDELb8JcI0Q


Regards, Stefan.

Cool , I love this guy ,he is a true hardcore builder.
Flower pot  hehe   great stuff.

I don't subscribe to many peoples pages on youtube, but this dude , well I have to see what he does next.

I love it!!! Dude you can work in my lab anytime. Build quick,cheap, and just do it. I like that aproach.

Stefan, since you have done a lot of research on the Newman motor, do you think this is for real?  How would you describe his setup?  Thanks for information,
Kent

Yes, surely it is for real !

You convert the contact points via oxidation to additional
electrical energy that is brought into the circuit via RF busts and
DC current pulses, that can charge up the battery.
The rest is just a DC motor, probably under 100 % efficient.
So the main thing you have to tune for optimized performance is the sparking commutator.

Regards, Stefan.

but if his battery was dead, and he was able to recharge it back to life, that mean its more then 100% efficiency?

Yes, the electrical side is over 100 %,
but probably not the mechanical output versus electrical input...

So you just get also mechanical rotation energy out, but if you put in
for instance  10 Watts of electrical power from the battery into the coil,
you would probably only get 5 to 7 Watts
mechanical out... but you would get also about 5 to 20  Watts RadioFrequency power
out additionally, which will recharge your battery, so you have the mechanical output for free
additionally..

So all in all, if you tune the sparking commutator right you can get
more out than in, that is correct.

where i can find this kind of magnet, i suppose old speaker will do, but i don't want broke my speaker :)

You can get them from the magnetron of a microwave oven.
See halfway down this page:
http://www.autarchex.com/projects/postmortem_magnetron/index.html (http://www.autarchex.com/projects/postmortem_magnetron/index.html)

Or from old speakers indeed. But the nice thing about the magnetron is, that there are two in it. And also made of the more powerful ferrite.

Steven

You can just also stack a few cheap cylinder or square  neodym
magnets together , bought from Ebay or here over the Google offers at the side...

Regards, Stefan.

ah cool, i think i have an old microwave somewhere

i have a lot of small neo magnet too, i will check for the microwave, if i dont have it anymore i will go with the small neo magnet

thanks!

ok i got the magnet from the microwave! but they are small :), so if i try something that will be a smaller version, also the magnet are not the same tickness, one is bigger then the other, i will need some balancing to get it work

Cheap disc mags at radio shack...

Hello everybody

Thanks a lot for these precious informations and particularly to Harti_Berlin for having initiated this topic with these amazing vids..

Should anybody be interested in downloading them, I have put them on:
http://freenrg.info/Amazing_Machines/ (http://freenrg.info/Amazing_Machines/)
(To be read why the free VLC Media Player).

It should not be to complicated to build this machine when you get all the stuff.
To have it running and charging depleted batts as demontrated could be tricky however. Could it not be?

BTW: Do you need a pot for 'pot plant' or 'potted plant'? ;D

Best

Thanks to NerzhDishual for posting the videos. At least I am able to watch them using that format.

The videos are good fun aren't they? That guy is wonderful. Goes to show that not all experiments and experimenters have to be ultra high tech.

I too can't figure out how he manages to start the rotor turning with such depleted batteries??

Ah, well just have to build some newman motors ourselves and see what happens.

thanks

I have Joe Neman's original 1984 plans for his moter. The cummutator is more complex than chuck2na's.  If I remember right when he first tested he's moter, "befm blew the capasitor up".

I have about 5 lbs of 20 gauge  wire, i'll build one, make a video.

Hi -

I put together a small motor yesterday and have it sparking away madly. I haven't connected it to any depleted batteries yet. I need to make many improvements first but something I was wondering about and maybe Stefan can help me out with this one.
Our friend in the video doesn't show or even tell us the actual state of his batteries so we're not really sure what is happening there. He could have shown us a volt meter reading at the least.
But what I was specifically wondering about is why are we building motors? I mean can we take any old DC motor and make its commutator nice and sparky and we now have a free energy machine?
The guy in the video implied that if you took the load off of his motor(the fan blade) he was then able to charge up his batteries. So then could one get an altered large DC motor that is made to spark a lot, don't run loads on it and then just charge up big banks of batteries to run one's household for example?

just wondering

Hi normal motors are running on big currents.
This will discharge the batteries too fast !
You need to run it below about 50 Milliamps, so the batteries don?t discharge and you produce enough RF bursts due to the sparking, so your batteries will recharge more than being discharged.
You could rewire a normal motor with finer smaller wire and modify the commutator, then it would also work. But as you have much higher inductances then due to the iron cores, you also need to have higher voltages to reach the same current level inside the coil inside the same time period. Also you will have additional eddy current and hysteresis losses inside the iron. But rewiring should in principle work, yes.
Regards, Stefan.

I would think a Bedini  Window Motor modified with multi commutators would be a good
twist on this idea.

Like this.

@Maxc,
looks nice.

Chuck has posted his next video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEaEuTY-zxc

Regards, Stefan.

That is cool :)

Cannot wait to get to the Video where he explains his coil a little bit more.

Are the two round Magnets held in repulsion or attraction?

Cheers

Sean.

Looking good maxc-

Mine is so ugly I wouldn't dare post a picture of  it in it's present incarnation lol! but your is looking very nice indeed.

Stefan- thanks for the information. Yes, I see that now I am drawing too much amperage. My little motor is currently drawing around 4-500 milamps without a load. I need to wrap more wire around it yet.
Other questions I have are - is what strengtht should the magnets be? is stronger better or not neccessarily? and finally how much distance should there be between the coil and the magnets?
I hope too that NerzhDishual will be so kind as to copy and post that latest video.

thanks for your help

here's my attempt although smaller, need to findout how much current im drawing
Commutator might need to be made smaller, i.e the contact

the wire is .25mm diam @ 58 ohms

I might also get away from using brass commutator and just use the actual shaft.
also wind much more coil around it.

Dom

Quote from: CLaNZeR on June 10, 2007, 04:57:29 AM
That is cool :)



Are the two round Magnets held in repulsion or attraction?

Attraction of course,
it is just one big magnet to the coil !

Quote from: mrd10 on June 10, 2007, 06:31:11 AM
here's my attempt although smaller, need to findout how much current im drawing
Commutator might need to be made smaller, i.e the contact

the wire is .25mm diam @ 58 ohms

I might also get away from using brass commutator and just use the actual shaft.
also wind much more coil around it.

Dom

Well done DOM,
maybe if you have lying around a graphite brush from
an old motor commutator try this one as the one contact point at the commutator.
With this the sparks will get better.

Regards, Stefan.

Hi Stefan,

Thanks Mate, It's good to see replication from Oz.....LOL

It would be great to findout how many ohms and wire size chuck2na has used, Are you able to contact him to findout? 
That one took me 6 hours to make, just had to figure way to do it. At the moment the sparks can be seen, I'm using a 12volt 1.3A hour battery to drive it, ill check to see where its at , but i think its running down slowly.

I'll keep at it, because it would indeed make an interesting self runner.

I'll be looking at building a larger version as he has done it.

Kind Rgds,

Dom

Dom,
you can also put in series with the battery a small incandescent bulb and
see it light up from the RF bursts.
The DC input current won?t light it.
The Wattage rating of the bulb must depend on the current input amps
and voltage, for instance, if you use 12 Volts battery and have now
in running idle about  50 to 100 milliAmps input current, then try to use
a 3 to 6 Volts 3 to 5 Watts bulbs.
The RF bursts from the sparking should be able to light it up.

Regards, Stefan.

Just watching his vid again, I reckon wire size is .5mm diam, and im going to shoot for 200ohms if i can, or very close to it.

Just an observation to help others here with replication. So i'll be making another one.

Dom

Quote from: mrd10 on June 10, 2007, 07:34:50 AM
Hi Stefan,

Thanks Mate, It's good to see replication from Oz.....LOL

It would be great to findout how many ohms and wire size chuck2na has used, Are you able to contact him to findout? 
That one took me 6 hours to make, just had to figure way to do it. At the moment the sparks can be seen, I'm using a 12volt 1.3A hour battery to drive it, ill check to see where its at , but i think its running down slowly.

I'll keep at it, because it would indeed make an interesting self runner.

I'll be looking at building a larger version as he has done it.

Kind Rgds,

Dom

Hi Dom,
try to get under 20 milliamps of avarage DC input current and
use more wire at 12 Volts.
You will need then bigger diameter
wire, so that with more turns you get the same DC ohmic resistance
as before, or if you now still have too low DC ohmic resistance of your coils,
just add more wire to the coil, so it gets a higher DC resistance.

But what avarage input current do you use now ?
Do you have an analog amp meter ?
Digital meters won?t display correctly with all these RF pulses...

Hi Stefan,

I have been replicating Johns bedini device, (mainly Rick Friedrich self runner), then Jason told me about this one  so I have some experience, this reminds me of the windows motor, the more turns on my drive coil, the less current i was using.

I do have an analog amp meter, just didnt connect it up, might go and do that now.

Might just wrap some more wire on this one before building larger version.

Rgds,

Dom

Quote from: mrd10 on June 10, 2007, 07:40:27 AM
Just watching his vid again, I reckon wire size is .5mm diam, and im going to shoot for 200ohms if i can, or very close to it.

Just an observation to help others here with replication. So i'll be making another one.

Dom

Well, 200 Ohms DC resistance ,when the rotor is not rotating is
a good value at 12 Volts battery supply because it will then draw 60 MilliAmps,
when the rotor is not spun.
When it will rotate  the input current will go down.

So with 0.5 mm diameter wire you will need many windings, I hope you
have so much wire left.

If you still have more wire left, try to go with 250 to 300 Ohms DC resistance.

Quote from: mrd10 on June 10, 2007, 07:48:53 AM
Hi Stefan,

I have been replicating Johns bedini device, (mainly Rick Friedrich self runner), then Jason told me about this one  so I have some experience, this reminds me of the windows motor, the more turns on my drive coil, the less current i was using.

I do have an analog amp meter, just didnt connect it up, might go and do that now.

Might just wrap some more wire on this one before building larger version.

Rgds,

Dom

Okay, Dom, you might just check now the input current.
Maybe also with brass(or better copper)<->graphite as the contact points your input current will already go down
and/or if you make the contact time shorter.

Hey Stefan,

You read my mind, I made the contact 4 to 5 mm now on the commutator, before it was about 10mm.

@ 10mm i was drawing about 40mA's, when i cut it to 4 to 5mm the current draw now is less than 20mA's, I had to adjust the contacts abit, it's only a rough job, but it works.
Looks like same speed as before, you have to adjust it so you can see those nice blue sparks.

The battery voltage now is bouncing all over the place, like it would go down to 12.95, then back to 13.03volts, then all sort of numbers inbetween, so this maybe a good indication that your pulse charging the battery. I have left it running, i'll check back in afew hours, hopefully it still going.

The wire spool of 500grams @ .56mm that i have measures 15.5ohms, I have some left over of .4mm and .5mm, might marry all this together on a larger unit.

So from what i can see, adjusting the commutator will be important, as you want to use as little current as possible, wire turns may not be that critical, but alot will be a good thing.

Kind Rgds,

Dom

Quote from: mrd10 on June 10, 2007, 06:31:11 AM
here's my attempt although smaller, need to findout how much current im drawing
Commutator might need to be made smaller, i.e the contact

the wire is .25mm diam @ 58 ohms

I might also get away from using brass commutator and just use the actual shaft.
also wind much more coil around it.

Dom

Excellent Dom, well done :)

Have got a couple of 500G reels this end of Enamelled Copper wire one is 30SWG and the other 27SWG.
I am tempted to try wind a coil around a cylinder, do you have to tape between each layer?, or just wind back and forth stripping the insulation back a little bit everynow and then so you can measure the resistance?

Regards

Sean.

Hi Dom,
sounds very good.
Now just let it run for a few days and see, how the battery  will behave.
In this mode you could at least run it 5 to 10 times longer than
if you would draw a constant 20 mA DC current from the battery.

So that the battery would not discharge at all, you would probably
need a much bigger coil and magnet, but at least with this setup
you will be able to run it much more longer than normal which is
also an energy output over 100 %if you compare it by the storage
being put before into the battery.

If you tune the phase angle of the commutator angle versus your magnet position angle
( at which position of your magnet your coil switches on and off)
and how fast the current is broken ( fast dI/dt) at the commutator ( 2 switches in series are even better !)
you will get a better spark and more RF bursts, which will help
to recharge the battery even better.

Hi Sean,

I just kept winding the coil, just putting small tape here and there to hold coil together, I just kept on winding until i thought it was enough, plus my hand was hurting, you need to take a break....lol, 58ohms of .25mm is abit of wire.

@Stefan, thanks mate i'll keep my eye on this.

Kind Rgds,

Dom

@Sean, winding back and forth is okay.

@Dom

Quote from: mrd10 on June 10, 2007, 08:33:34 AM
Looks like same speed as before, you have to adjust it so you can see those nice blue sparks.

Try adjusting until you see pure white sparks.
Unfortunately I can't find the post atm, but there's something about a blue flame contains hydrogen, and a pure white contains a bit of "everything" = pure energy.

Good luck  :)

@Dom,
please don?t ground your battery ( so don?t let a grounded scope
connected,as it will shortout the RF) and for the optimum recharge effect, try to bypass the ampmeter
again, after you have measured the input amps. ( as the ampmeter is a choke with a coil
in it !)

Hope you can this way have it much longer running,
P.S:
Also if you use a digital voltmeter for your battery this could
get destroyed, if you leave it on the battery during runtime.
Just only measure the battery voltage with a DVM, when the motor is not running or
when it is running, then only with a analog voltmeter  across the battery .

Regards, Stefan.

Thanks Stefan, for the tips.

Just another observation I made looking at Chucks unit, has anyone noticed that the middle of the unit looks fatter, than the top and bottom, this would suggest to me that he may have criss crossed in the centre more, hmm this may have an advantageous effect on charging, I know from some experiments that others have done, by twisting cables together or crossing them, you get higher voltages.  Something to think about, I'm sure going to try it. as you can see my unit doesnt look like chucks in the centre.

Ive attached 4 pics, oh Stefan your right the analog AMP meter was changing the results on the DMM.
when i removed it, it stabilised the voltage between 12.99 and 13.01volts, youll see this in one of the pics.

Dom

I still put the wire over mine, my wire is 1mm tick and my finger cannot handle it anymore! for a computer guys its to much :)

I have only got one Ring Magnet a 2" Neo, so decided to use some brass brackets to hold it center.

Gonna go lathe the shafts now and tap then out so they screw up tight to the threads.
Seems well balanced.

Then off to wind a coil, going to see if putting the lathe on slow speed will save aching hands LOL

Hi Guys

The newman machine has been running about 10 hours, and it started at 13.01v, now its down at 12.82volts, less than 20mA current draw.
I'm real curious now to get more information from chuck2na. If he can get on this forum, it would help all of us.

I'm suspecting I need more wire especially in the centre, rather than the ends. The way I see that chuck has wound his , is by doing a criss cross around where the shaft goes through, and this may have some bearing on it's operation.

But again, I'd like to work with numbers, so if we can get the wire size his used , the ohms at least and how he has wound his unit, I think we will be on our way.

Dom

Hi Dom,
the wire from Chuck is probably just bigger inside the center,
cause he had to wind around the axis there,  so the wires bulge out there more...

You now  have to tune your commutator even more, so you get bigger sparks.
One way would be to try a different contact point material.
If you can find some graphite, please try this  so your brass ring metal will
brush a spark with the graphite to make contact.

You can also unscrew your brass holder from the axis and change the angle
of the brass ring versus the magnet and screw tight then again, so that the
magnet position versus contact position is changed.
Sothe motor runs
slower, but has a bigger spark !
This way you will convert more rotational energy back to electrical energy
and the coil then acts more like a generator pushing more BackEMF bursts
back into the battery .

It is now just a point of tuning it, so get the battery staying charged.
Also if you don?t have graphite, try with other metals like
alufoil or magnesium band or zinc metal for the second contact point
versus brass.
You will see, there will be a difference.
Also good would be to put a small incandescent light bulb in series with the minus pole of the battery before
it goes to the commutator, so that you can see the effect of the power of the RF burst lighting up
the bulb.

So then you can optimize the spark for maximum brightness of the bulb
and then afterwards remove ( or shortout) the bulb again to get these RF bursts directly again fed back to the battery.

Also it will help to use short big diameter cables from the commutator to the battery, so not all
power of the RF spark is lost in radiating the power away from smaller sized longer cables...

Regards, Stefan.

I hear ya Stefan, thanks mate.

Ok I added more coil to the unit, criss cross at the centre, now it looks more like chucks

I'm drawing very little amps, I can't even see the needle moving, youll see this in vid I just made. sorry about my kid in the background noise...lol
-coil measures 85 ohms
-.25mm diam
-commutator still brass, i'll let it run and check back in few hours, and write notes.
then make commutator changes, possibly try and use the same shaft.

Dom

Hi Dom,
many thanks for the video and the picture.
Now you are getting to it.

Now it only depends on the commutator.
What contact materials do you currently use ?
Try to make the commutator more slippy, so it sparks
more and gets less contact.
Then try the trick with the incandescent bulb to see the RF power.

Hi Stefan and All,

I can't see my Amp meter needle moving at all, It's like on 0.

I did another video tonight, because I changed the commutator as per chucks done it, i.e
using the shaft itself. I put small sticky tape on it, with small gap, the thicker yellow cable is the other side of the connection, which is connected to the battery, this is just touching the metal shaft holder.

its 6pm now reading 12.83  .84volts, i'll check in few hours what voltage reading is.

So it would seem the closer to 100ohms you can get the coil at the better.
I will need to get a micro amp meter to see how much it is drawing.
try and keep wiring as much to the centre as possible. I did criss cross fashion and this might have some bearing on current draw, cancelling the magnetic flux perhaps.

so specs again:-

-85ohms @ .25mm diam wire
-wired criss cross or figure 8 around the centre.
-using steel shaft as commutator.

Dom

Excellent Dom

Thought I was watching a Spy Movie to start with due to the torch and black out hehe !

Back to work today, so will be away from home will the weekend, but will get back to playing as soon as.

For now I will follow your project with interest.

Good Stuff :)

Cheers

Sean.

Hi Dom

I do not know if you are in the UK but Rapid have a good range of Analogue Ammeters

http://www.rapidonline.com/productinfo.aspx?tier1=Tools%2c+Fasteners+%26+Production+Equipment&tier2=Test+Equipment&tier3=Educational+Meters&tier4=Analogue+ammeters&moduleno=71832

Very good prices as well.

Regards

Sean.

Hi Sean,

Thanks mate, I can get them no worries, i'm from down under....hehehe

I adjusted the commutator points, and this thing almost vibrating off the table. Must be doing a few thousand rpms, current draw minimal prob 1 to 2 mA's

Dom

Hi sharp builders!

Well done! I guess that I will build such a motor  too.
BTW:

QuoteI hope too that NerzhDishual will be so kind as to copy and post that latest video.

It is  on :
http://freenrg.info/Amazing_Machines/Newman_Machine_5.vlc (http://freenrg.info/Amazing_Machines/Newman_Machine_5.vlc)
Best

Thanks NerzhDishual-

Thanks for posting the video - much appreciated.

My own little motor while having been fun to build and play with is obviously pulling the batteries down. It was drawing 200-400 milliamps which is certainly too much.

so, back to the bench for the next updated model. All my components are in and I'll certainly pay attention to the coil length and get my amps draw down.

Thanks all for the tips

Hi all:
   Just a quick note here on the size of the coils newman uses. Hundreds of pounds of wire. And small gauge. The key to his motor is high ohms/inductance and the sparks. He has spent a lot of time finding the correct combo for the brushes. That beast in his garage has something like 2000 lbs of wire in it but will run on very little.
   I found that I can get old MW ovens for five bucks at the junk store. Each will have two mags in them. Two different sizes for the focus fields in the megatron. Just rip the megatron apart and slide the mags off.
   Two quarter inch spacers on each side and a rod for the center. Done.

sugra

Hello Stefan, Dom, Sugra and everybody:

I have been wondering about why all this great inventions remains away from the common people, and I realize that maybe it is because, there has been no way to make this simple to people like me (without electronic knowledge as you have) that could follow some kind of "How to make a Joseph Newman?s Machine for Dummies", and then share that kind of manual on the internet for free, and come to forums like this to share pictures, experiences etc and improve it, like LINUX does.
A simple manual that would ask cuestions like:
What kind of copper wire?, how many turns? What kind of magnet to use? ring, disc, square? what kind of metal is the shaft made of? etc, if any one want to help doing this kind of manual, please start with a list of materials, let?s take pictures of the winding, the shaft, the bearing etc.
PLease help, please share this beautifull job you guys do with mortals like me or thousands out there that do not know where or how to start.
Thanks to all of you.

Jorge

I have just managed to source a reel of 0.25mm(34SWG) x 3.2KG wire :)

I think I am going to build a winding machine using stepper motors as I think this will save alot of time and it can be used for other projects I have been planning on doing anyway.

I will use 1 stepper to Rotate the coil I am winding and another to move the wire feed arm along.(Basically a 2 Axis CNC bodge LOL)

What I am stuck on is how to keep the wire Tension correct, anyone know of a cheap method of tensioning the small wire as it gets wound?

Regards

Sean.

Hi Dom,
if you put a bulb or a 1 to 10 Ohm shunt resistor  in series with the battery minus pole and put a scope across it,
try to see, if you also can get these big back current spikes into the battery as is shown
here:

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Foverunity.com%2Fnewman%2Fspike2.JPG&hash=b1e22bed81ff71ee3cc731bcb8c52bd096ad4619)

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Foverunity.com%2Fnewman%2Fspike3.JPG&hash=46d2656ee11de9a4fad65f8327f8fdf68b1756f2)

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Foverunity.com%2Fnewman%2Fspike01.jpg&hash=5efcc7f8bdf69739fd09c156a4d403a2938cd3c6)

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Foverunity.com%2Fnewman%2Fvoltrise.jpg&hash=3401bbd4638d6ebc72d6a36c837f8c0897036a55)

You probably have to tune the sparking contact to
get the right spark and then these back current pulses
will apear, when the coil is sitched off.

Hi All-

Got 2 -  3.25" ring magnets from speakers. Used a 4.5" piece of PVC pipe to house the motor. Spent hours wrapping coil wire around it!  Did the figure 8 type of wind that mrd10 suggested. Hooked it up to a slightly depleted 12 V battery.
Draws less than 50 millamps now at 12 V so that's good. Rotates fairly slowly- think thats OK. I will leave it on awhile now and see what happens to the charge. I can see though that I will have to fix the sparking arrangement by trying different materials and configurations etc. because the spark seems kind of weak.( I am using copper to aluminum just now) So not sure that this arrangement will charge the battery any but we will see.
Wanted to mention though that a few times while adjusting the leads off of the battery that I got a fair jolt as in a bit of a 'shock' so I am optomistic that it is kicking out big voltage spikes. You can't get that kind of reaction off of just 12 VDC.

Will Post any new results later on.

@PG46,
check out your electrical ON-Off firing position versus magnet position
inside the coil.
If you change this angle you can optimize for faster speed
or lower speed.
At different angles you will have lower speed and more BackEMF.
If you want faster speed you will get less BackEMF voltage,
so either you run this thing as a motor or as a generator of BackEMF
to recharge the batteries.
It is all in the tuning of the sparking
commutator and the angle magnet versus firing setup.

hartiberlin-

Thanks for the tips. Yes, I see what you mean regarding the speed. I don't want a motor after all so I think I will aim for the low revs and big sparks!
I wonder how large these machines have to be to be of practical use? I wonder too if they can harm batteries by overcharging? Nice problem to have mind you.

Quote from: pg46 on June 12, 2007, 02:38:53 PM
hartiberlin-

I wonder how large these machines have to be to be of practical use?

This still has to be found out...
If the effect is  really in the conversion of graphite ( carbon) material due to oxidation
at the commutator, so via electron clustering will get free electrons into the electrical circuit,
one would be able to build just a solid state unit, just burning the right amount of graphite
at a sparkgap and thus extract the electrical power of this oxidation process
of the graphite into an accumulator.
Then you don?t need a rotating magnet anymore, if this effect is
optimized and it is just a direct electrical conversion of graphite (carbon)
to electrial energy with a high efficiency, better than a coal utility plant .
As carbon can be got from biomass this is also a green cycle and very cheap.

Quote

I wonder too if they can harm batteries by overcharging?

Well, yes,don?t let it run when you go to sleep or are not there in the
room for longer time.
Batteries can gas out hydrogen , so check them time by time.

Regards, Stefan.

HI all

Should I just spin it up and let it go. How neat do the coils have to be?

I forgot I had that old spool in the shed of vintage wire.(different wire  all was free) Since I'll only have about 25 ohms when it's done. Power will be pulsed in at about 24 times per second per rotation like Newman's first set up and 2 current reversals per rotation.

Mark

Well yes,just spin it.
Does not have to be so exact in the spool.

Only just many windings to bring the ohmic DC resistance up
and have much induction L.

Looking forward.
Many thanks for your pic.

Regards,Stefan.

Stefan-

That is interesting. Kind of reminds me of the "magnegas" system. Do you think that we can take 2 carbon rods and using a DC battery system and high voltage to create the spark that we could keep those batteries charged up only having consumed the carbon rods? kinda like an arc welder setup? Also then, what remains after the rods are consumed? that is, any mess to clean up or toxic materials to dispose of when burning carbon rods with an electrical arc?

I was wondering if you or anybody else had heard mention the theory that it might be the "nitrogen" contained in the air that causes the extra electrical charge to occur with a spark gap? Thought  I read that around this website somewhere but maybe not. Their theory was somehow using what occurs with lightening bolts as part of their explanation.

mrd10  - How is your project coming? manage to charge up any depleted batteries yet?

I need to get back to my project and tune up that commutator so I can make a go of this generator thing.

Best Regards,

Here is a circuit diagram:
http://www.overunity.com/index.php/topic,2510.msg35115.html#msg35115

@pg46
yes, in a solid state system you would need
a big coil , a 12 Volt accumulator and a gaphite rod electrode and
another metal electrode ( which metal is best must still be researched).

This would burn up the carbon rod and the coil would help to
produce the high voltage to have a steady arc between the electrodes.
It looks then like welding, yes that is right.
Yes, it could also be the Nitrogen inside the air that
would releases the additional energy into the accumulator.
You also would have to tune this system this way, that
you would produce more RF arc power than DC power going into the
system from the battery, so tomake sure the battery will not get discharged.

Then the carbon rod would be consumed after a while,
but as it could be produced from charcoal and biomass
this would be indeed a green cycle and it would be more efficient
than to burn charcoal and heating water to run a steam engine
like utilities do it with only about 30 % efficiency.
With the direct carbon conversion you could probably get an efficiency
of around 60 to 70 %and use the additional heat and light output
also somehow. you only haveto make sure the ozone being produced
would have not to be breathed..and get rid of.

Hi all,

My moter has been running for 1 hour and 20 min. The battery  is a 5 year old 11amp hour 12 volt tractor battery. It's sulfated. It had 10 volts no load. If you dead shorted it out you could only pull one amp. When i started running the moter it was at 9.7 volts. Now it is 9.8 volts about 200 rpm. I was lazy and did not add 8 more ohms of wire to the coil. I have 17.7 ohms, 30% duty cycle. I used carbon brushes and stainless steal shaft and tape.

I think I just built a battery desulfator LOL

Mark

Okay Mark,
now put a 12 Volts 5 Watts halogen incandescent bulb in series with the minus pole
or plus pole of the battery. Will it light up when the motor is running ?
Will it light up, when the motor is not running and you just use the coil as a preload
resistor for the halogen bulb ?

What is your current avarage input current into the motor ?

Surely the battery will be desulfated. Just wait and see.

Hi All-

Just wanted to report in.
Running with one battery slightly depleted, I haven't noticed an increase in voltage yet. I certainly need to improve my comutator though. I tried various materials and have so far the best spark from using aluminum and copper. I tried a carbon rod from an old dry cell battery but didn't see much improvement.
It is obvously producing higher voltages as when one touches either end of the spinning shaft you get good electric shocks from it. It must be at very low amps however and might then take a long time to charge up a battery.
Just for fun I put it into a tesla 4 battery set up where after an hour I did note an increase in voltage of 0.1 volts. It needs to be improved and tested a lot more before conclusions can be drawn though.
Thats it for now. Hope to hear any results negative or otherwise from the other experimenters.

Good stuff MaxC and pg46

Got home tonight for the weekend and nice deliveries below waiting:

I went for  couple of standalone Amp Meters one that goes from 0-1mA and the other 0-500mA.

Also got a good deal on analogue Multimeter as all mine here are digital.

Tomorrow I will start work on the Coil Winding machine and get that wire sorted!!!

Is it okay after so many winds to strip the enamel back and test the resistance, if so should I re-insulate the the enamel was stripped off with thin clear tape?

Yet another good learning experience and hope o have summit runnin by the end of the weekend. 

Cheers

Sean.

I like your equpement :)

Quote from: TheOne on June 15, 2007, 05:10:25 PM
I like your equpement :)

Hmmm That sounds fimilliar,,, Whare have i herd that? Hmm?? ::)

LOL

I was talking about the electronic one, not your personal equipment! :)

Sorry The One..

You made that just Too easy Lmao. :o

you two are creeping me out...
j/k ;D

Hi all
   Here's my commutator. It's a little big but tune-able. Now all i need is 10000 feet of 24 gauge wire $$$.

Mark

I've been thinking...

If the spark is indeed giving free electrons to the circuit perhaps a battery is
not the best proof of concept. Free electrons even in RF should still be able to
be stablized and stored in a 12v cap bank. I'm no electronics guru so I may be
wrong, but I'm going on the free electron theory.

We can just use our battery or PSU and a multimeter to charge the
"cap bank battery" to a replicatable quantified amount of input energy
and then short the coil on the cap bank, and give the shaft a lil spin.
Use the individual run times to adjust the contacts and what not.

Just a thought...
I would need others input to even know how to do that right.

~Dingus Mungus

Dingus Mungus-

Hmmm...maybe a good idea there to incorporate caps into the test system. I don't know about the BEMF producing electricity but for sure the spark does.
Some of you may remember from last year that a few of us were messing around with caps? Well in one part of the experiments we noticed that when transferring the energy from one charged cap and dumping it into an empty cap you often would end up with "extra voltage" which could only be on account of the spark that occurs when connecting the leads.
So this BEMF and the sparking in this system should produce extra energy above what is required to spin the motors.

Quote from: mramos on June 16, 2007, 08:30:06 AM
Maxc,

Have you been running yours?  I have the opposite.  I large magnet and a lot less wire.  Is your working well?

I ran it for 4 hours the voltage went from 9.7 to 9.95 then started to drop slowly. The plates on the battery were probably being cleaned.  We all need more wire.

Could i put 2 spools in series on top and 2 more on the bottom. Run the taps to a small 100nf cap to ground?

I was thinking of making this circuit but put 2 brushes with spark gaps instead of diodes for befm back too battery. The second  circuit  from the bottom.
mark
http://www.icehouse.net/john1/tesla.html

Quote from: pg46 on June 13, 2007, 09:54:58 AM
mrd10  - How is your project coming? manage to charge up any depleted batteries yet?

Hi pg47

My project has been on hold, Prelimiary tests show I can't charge battery up, but current draw is either in 1 ma range or is in microamp range, its very small thats for sure. I have a thing i want to try which i'll share with this group, it was given to me by a good friend, and who i've been helping with Otto's tpu project.

create static charge with your unit and time discharge back to battery, so in effect turn your newman motor into a vandagraaf generator. now that's some food for thought. I will do this at later stage, I'm finishing my bedini windows motor, which is related to rick's self runner:- http://peswiki.com/index.php/Directory:Bedini_SG:Self-Runner

keep going guys your doing great

Dom

Dom-

Thanks for calling in.
Yup, so far my battery keeps going down while running my motor too. I am drawing very few amps too, like way under 40 milliamps depending how I set the comutator. I like the idea too of adding a static generator on the end of our motors. I thought of something similar myself seems we need so little to make this a self runner. Say, how about a Wimshurst Generator ?
When I incorporate it(my motor) into a tesla 4 battery set up then I have recorded an increase in voltage of 0.1 volt on each of 4 batteries after 1 hour. But will have to do more careful tests and measurements.
In the meanwhile I am going to put on a small generator(dc motor) on the end of the motor shaft and see what happens there.

All The Best,

Hi all:
   Well lets see, six inch piece of pvc, a roll of 26 wire and three more nights off to play. Guess I need a break from all the other things going on so I will have to do this.

I would like to know more of the tesla four batt system, a pic or the patent would be great.

Have dug out all the ring mags I have, six of them so a rotor is no problem. Have a pair of 3/8" bearings and some threaded stock. Alu wheel to use for a commutator. Nothing to stop but a new cup of coffee and a couple of more microwaves. Could use a couple of hv diodes anyhow.

sugra

@ sugra

here is a link with info on the tesla 4 battery switch. This link is also an incredible source of overunity info.

The concept of the 4 battery switch is very simple. If switched slowy, as I use it, is a great conserver of energy at the very least and when understood it will make you wonder why we use electricity in any other way.
Another aspect of it is when switched very very rapidly a different sort of reaction happens that is quite unique.
Well, enough said - just go on over and have a look at -

http://www.web-space.tv/free-energy/D3.pdf

Regards,

great porn spam link!

Not sure what you gave there but bit defender nailed it to the wall. How about just a pic of it here.

sugra

Hmmm?...funny that.
It's Patrick Kelly's rather extensive PDF files on free energy. It comes up OK for me when I hit that link. I will try to find you another route.

Here is a link regarding what Stefan and others were mentioning about the spark gap creating extra energy. In this experiment the guy is using a wimshurst machine.
Hope this link doesn't give you guys any trouble-

http://www.intalek.com/Index/Projects/SparkGapExp/SparkGapExp.htm

Hi Again-

Ok, now I have attached the file for you. Open and scroll on down past all of the other interesting stuff until you get to the section of Tesla's 4 battery switch system

Hope it works for you

You newman motor builders may want to consider using these materials-   Carbon/Graphite - and Thoriated Tungsten rods for your spark gap experiments

you can get these at welding supply shops

@PG46

Thanks for the file. That is like the 3 bat system I played with. I did a long haul switching test with it and in the long run, ran down the bats. But then I did not fast switch it. I allowed it to equalize naturally between and it showed the loss of the lamp I used for a load.

With this info, I can see the effects you talk of. Same as edisons switch on problem. In this case the on off times will have to be very very short due to the short wire between the bats. I smell IGBT's here.

I did see a test done by someone here on the net of this effect. Actually caught on his high end scope the pulse and how it really did go up higher than the supply voltage source.

Now I see the internals to the set up I believe Ron Cole did. In that was a black box controller but was unsure of how it was doing it. That together with this shows what all three is about. So I guess I need one more batt to do the set up and some big diodes.

Thanks again.

Thanks PG46 for the link, some stuff i've haven't seen yet. There's plenty for welding stores over here.

Where i was tuning my motor a few days ago weird things happened. It turning fast then slow as you would expect. I was pulsing it about 5 times on and off for only 1/4 of a rotation. Then i held the brush more flush with the commutator. It dropped from about 200rpms to 60 rpms and made a weird humming sound. It rotated at very steady speed a larger arcing corona built up around the brush. A strange humming sound. I have a analog meter now it's pulling an average of .020ma. With it rotating at  200rpms.  But can't simulate that low steady speed again.  Of coarse i needed amps reading at lower speed.
More info to come.
mark

This might explain it joe dirt posted it on lord of the rings.
http://www.keelynet.com/gravity/plasma1.txt

Hi All-

Well I am yet to get an increase in voltage using any single slightly depleted batteries with my newman styled motor.  ???

However..... as mentioned before when I place the motor into a tesla 4 battery system I get a clear voltage increase without any doubt across all four batteries.

In my tests I use 4 identical 12 V 5 amp batteries- they were each run down to 12.3 volts They were connected in parallel for a while to even out the voltages and measured. Then I place them into the Tesla 4 battery arrangement. I don't use diodes, swithcing circuits and all the other BS.

The motor is simply connected between the 2 pairs of batteries which one set are in series and the other 2 batteries  are connected in parallel. After 1 hr I stopped the motor and I connected all four batteries in parallel again to equalize the voltages and found a 0.1 volt gain in all four batteries. Started the test again and after 1 more hour run time and evening out the battery voltages again I recorded another 0.1 volt gain. So now all four batteries were at 12.5 volts  :D

One has to be very careful with measurements here of course so much more testing will be required. I think that since the Tesla 4 battery arrangement doesn't use(lose I should say) any power while running the newman motor then anything the motor manages to kick out in high voltage spikes will get captured by the batteries.

Hi pg46,
interesting results.
Please continue to see, if you can raise the voltage even more.

What kind of commutator materials do you use ?

@All
Did anybody yet try to power an incandescent bulb in series with the
battery, so only the back current RF bursts will light up the bulb ?
(Normal DC input current is too weak to light up the bulb).
Then you can see the power of the RF bursts...
( you really need to have the right commutator material to
have good RF bursts..)

Regards, Stefan.

Quote from: hartiberlin on June 21, 2007, 04:44:20 PM
Hi pg46,
interesting results.
Please continue to see, if you can raise the voltage even more.

What kind of commutator materials do you use ?

@All
Did anybody yet try to power an incandescent bulb in series with the
battery, so only the back current RF bursts will light up the bulb ?
(Normal DC input current is too weak to light up the bulb).
Then you can see the power of the RF bursts...
( you really need to have the right commutator material to
have good RF bursts..)

Regards, Stefan.

I can't light a 6 volt bulb.
On my favorite radio station 88.7Mhz , there's very loud multiple popping noise. The radio 20 feet from the motor.
The FCC can find me easily LOL.
My commutator is starting to wear uneven i think that's why i can't simulate steady slow rotation.

Hi Maxc,
what kind of 6 Volts bulb do you use ?
How much current must it have to be bright ?

How much input current does your motor draw now ?
As the RF power output is about 5 to 10 times the DC input power
you can then calculate the bulb?s power ratings it must have
to light up fully bright.

Hi Stefan-

I am using now as a comutator a Thoriated Tungsten rod I bought at a welding supply shop and a piece of carbon rod I salvaged from a dry cell battery.

I must try out your trick with the light bulbs.

Okay pg46,
let us know, how the back spike pulses look alike, if you have a scope.
If you tune the commutator to the best spark with tungsten and graphite
you should be able to get about 5 to 10 times the RF power on the
wire as the DC input power.
So just inserting a incandescent bulb into the circuit will
light up this bulb, that normally would not light up via the Dc input current
only.
So take a bulb that is Wattage rated about 5 to 10 times the DC input power.

Regards, Stefan.

Quote from: pg46 on June 20, 2007, 01:48:37 AM
Hi Again-

Ok, now I have attached the file for you. Open and scroll on down past all of the other interesting stuff until you get to the section of Tesla's 4 battery switch system

Hope it works for you

Nice PDF, thanks PG46

Now to find more time to bloody read the thing  ;D

Regards

Sean.

Hi PG46:
   Did a read on the pdf and I remember setting up the 3 bat system. I used a auto tail bulb for the load. The fact that you have 24v on one side and  12 on the other makes a difference of 12v between the two positive terminals. I ran the test for 8 times and by that time the batts were all showing depleted. But then I was using a heat source as well. The heat was gone with no way to return it. Even if you have only a .1v increse, you did the work in the motor as well. I will need one more batt to set up what you did.

@ Stephan
   Hi stephan, I am still at a loss here with this motor. I see it run. I see the result of his test "2" times and yet I know for a fact that the back pulse from the coil is in the "reverse" polarity to the battery. Common sense would tell me that it would further deplete the batt instead of charge it. If you use a blocking diode and then another diode to take the reverse pulse to a second battery, then it will charge it just fine. I have done that already with my motor.

My motor is really simple, a stack of MWave magnets inside a 6" pvc on a stainless rod with a couple of wipers for comm. Runs good. Getting ready to add more wire as 20 ohms is still not enough to gen large back emf spikes. Keep'n on

sugra

Quote from: pg46 on June 21, 2007, 03:20:25 PM
Hi All-

Well I am yet to get an increase in voltage using any single slightly depleted batteries with my newman styled motor.  ???

However..... as mentioned before when I place the motor into a tesla 4 battery system I get a clear voltage increase without any doubt across all four batteries.

In my tests I use 4 identical 12 V 5 amp batteries- they were each run down to 12.3 volts They were connected in parallel for a while to even out the voltages and measured. Then I place them into the Tesla 4 battery arrangement. I don't use diodes, swithcing circuits and all the other BS.

The motor is simply connected between the 2 pairs of batteries which one set are in series and the other 2 batteries  are connected in parallel. After 1 hr I stopped the motor and I connected all four batteries in parallel again to equalize the voltages and found a 0.1 volt gain in all four batteries. Started the test again and after 1 more hour run time and evening out the battery voltages again I recorded another 0.1 volt gain. So now all four batteries were at 12.5 volts  :D

One has to be very careful with measurements here of course so much more testing will be required. I think that since the Tesla 4 battery arrangement doesn't use(lose I should say) any power while running the newman motor then anything the motor manages to kick out in high voltage spikes will get captured by the batteries.

Hi sugra-

Yeah, I had tried the 3 battery set up as well a few months back now and wasn't successful either. The 4 battery set up seems to have more potential in my opinion or at least it is easier. There are a couple of concepts to it though. One idea is the rapid switching method which is meant to harldy give the electrons a chance to move. I tried a rapid switching method but I think it was too slow yet and was unsuccessful and therefore my batteries depleted over time.
The other concept is that of simply moving the energy from one container to the other and using the power along the way. Kind of like pouring water from one container into the next and using the water to spin a paddle wheel while doing it and just repeating the proccess over and over again, back and forth using the same water.
With my newman type motor here I can't yet  get it to gain in voltage while only on one battery but instead only just slowly depletes over time. In the 4 battery set up it runs and runs with even some  'questionable' small gain but it might possibly be a self runner. It would take a long tme to test it properly however.
I need to work on this comutator business though. Mine is pretty dodgy although I seem to get nice sparks from using tungsten rod and copper as materials. I will keep working on it.

Regards,

I still believe that replacing the batteries with cap banks would be a better proof.
There are lots of variables that can affect batteries, like thermal effects in voltage.
Don't get me wrong you reported a voltage increase and I believe you, but skeptics
and the world of physics in genral can't dismiss a steady voltage increase in device
like you descibed if the batteries were cap banks. Just an idea...

Thanks for all your efforts,
~Dingus Mungus

Dingus Mungus

Yeah I agree 100%. Batteries are real tricky to measure for a variety of reasons. They can either lose or even gain in voltage after sitting some time. Some say for true measurements one has to leave them alone overnight before taking readings.
It should be noted here that I never said I got a gain with only a single battery. I hope some of the others have or will manage to pull that one off.
Now where did I put those 80 large capicitors to build a bank...hmmmm?...I know they are around here somewhere ....

Best,

Psh! You say that like you don't have 80 caps laying around... :D
We all know you do. Maybe not 80, but I'd bet at least 60. J/K!

~Dingus Mungus

Hmm,
the problem with this is that we need the special effects inside batteries,
that they discharge less, due to slow ion movement.
As in the Bedini systems it is very dependent of batteries.
In the Bedini systems also the Radiant Energy charges the batteries
directly INSIDE the batteries.
This is also the case with the Newman systems, so we need to use
batteries with them.

It has all been tried with caps and they just discharge.

Regards, Stefan.

It's unfortunate to hear that a cap bank can't work, but if the system is indeed dependent on the batteries redox reactions, then perhaps there is a diference in
operation when using different batteries. LOL... It may all come back to harmonics
since electrodes have a ionization rate or frequency when they host an ion clouds.

I hope to work out my shaft mounting problem this weekend. Pics to come soon.

~Dingus Mungus

Hi guys, just want to indroduce myself. My name is Mike. You guys are full of insight and seem to be able to explain this stuff in an easy to understand manner.. thanks for all the tips you guys have provided!

I have been working on a small version of the motor I made from stuff I had laying around here. I have materials on order to build a larger unit as this small motor has given me some very interesting results.

It was made using the following:
- 2 Skatebord Bearings
- 4 Neo Magnets
- Length Of Threaded SS Rod (axle)
- Teflon (bar stock) To Hold The Magnets To The Axle
- 2 Curtain Rod Holders
- Magnet Wire
- Water Bottle Cut To Size
- Couple Of Nuts & Washers To Lock It All Together
- Commutator Made With Packing Tape.. lol

The funny thing about this motor (not shown in vid) is I took a 1.5V AA battery that was almost dead. I hooked up a small LED to the battery in the proper orintation and the LED would not illuminate.. I then took the same battery and hooked it up to this motor and it ran on its own! Slowly mind you but remember.. the battery would not even run an LED!

This is a vid I took of my motor last night, I used (4) AA batteries run down to about 3.7V DC. I was able to get it to run for over 7 hours. After 7 hours the batteries were I thought drained.. I then unhooked the batteries, reconfigured the commutator to close the circuit once per revolution (instead of the 2 times per rev in the vid) and hooked the batteries back up and gave her a spin.. To my surprise, the motor took off again at even a higher RPM and lasted a few more hours till I fell Asleep!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQvr3AJXESQ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQvr3AJXESQ)


In this vid, I switch to a partially discharged 9V battery reading at about 6V. I tried to add a load to this motor while it was running and added a dead 6V cordless phone battery to the coil.. thought I might be able to charge it up.. but more work is needed to convert the signal to be useful for battery recharging no?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YN9qHUcNZhI (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YN9qHUcNZhI)

I have been taking measurements as I go and I'm unsure of some of the readings I am getting. I set the multimeter to 500V A/C and tested it as it was running connecting the probes to each end of the coil and got something like 1900V AC, but was fluctuating like mad. I was only getting these high numbers when the commutator was set to only close the circuit once per revolution and only when the magnets N/S were facing the coil.
After switching the commutator to close the circuit twice per revolution, when the magents were facing top and bottom away from the coil, the voltage came down and I was then able to get fluctuating DC voltages throughout the ranges on my multimeter..

So I'm wondering, is this output HV AC or pulsed DC or something else, some here mention RF. To recharge a battery using this type of electrcity, would it need to be passed through an AC step down transformer, diodes in a rectifier circuit, caps to smooth it out and then on to the rechageable battery kinda like a "wall wort", but can take high voltage and crank it down?
Would it be better to recharge a battery from the machine that is not the source power? So a rechargeable battery or solar panel powers it while another gets recharged slowly, instead of allowing the spikes to travel back to the source (reverse direction)? Or would this just load the whole thing down?

So many questions..  ;D If anyone can help me out on this side of things, I would be thankfull.


PS: Have you seen the vids of the newman motor that runs after the power source has been removed? If you would like the link, let me know.. but I'm sure you guys have already seen it.. pretty cool if you ask me!

Quote from: theb3e on November 09, 2007, 07:54:11 PM


PS: Have you seen the vids of the newman motor that runs after the power source has been removed? If you would like the link, let me know.. but I'm sure you guys have already seen it.. pretty cool if you ask me!

No mate havnt seen it please do post the link and nice machine.

Quote from: seekingknowledge on November 10, 2007, 12:55:16 AM

Quote from: theb3e on November 09, 2007, 07:54:11 PM


PS: Have you seen the vids of the newman motor that runs after the power source has been removed? If you would like the link, let me know.. but I'm sure you guys have already seen it.. pretty cool if you ask me!

No mate havnt seen it please do post the link and nice machine.

Thanks! It is just a mess around unit before I start winding big coils and wasting materials..

Yeah, I think this guy had the idea back in 1998 he rigged up a power supply with some diodes, high frequency choke coils, a couple of 160uF caps and was able to get his motor to run for 5 min with the power supply unplugged.. "closing the loop" his name is JL Naudin (JLN Labs) He has a video that shows him disconnecting the power supply and the thing keeps going!
Here is a link to his site, there is tons of good info there with wiring diagrams and screen shots of his scope, diagrams.. http://jnaudin.free.fr/html/nwjlself.htm (http://jnaudin.free.fr/html/nwjlself.htm)

Hi Theb3e,

Welcome to the club.
Nice and successful motor, IMHO.
Could you tell us more: the diameter of the coil wire and the passive resistance (ohms) of the said coil?

Best

Hi theb3e,
very nice built !

To charge up the cap you must put a graetz rectifier bridge across the
coil ( in parallel with thecoil ) and then going into the cap
from the plus andminus output of the rectifier bridge.

This way it will charge up the cap when the commutator switches off.

Then the  Back EMF will charge up the cap via the high voltage radio frequency
bursts of the sparking...

This will really charge up the cap very fast.

Good luck.

Regards, Stefan.

Thanks for the positive feedback guys, Thanks for the tip about rectifiers & caps, gives me something to try next. I told myself if I can make it work with stuff thats laying around the house, then it might be worth throwing money into. This "No Frills Motor was inspired by chuck2na off of YouTube, I mean..if you can make a motor out of a flower pot, lol anything is possible  :)

Last night I thought I would try and capture some of the unused potential of the spinning rotor and added a small
generator circuit to the end of the little newman motor. It's in now way connected to the newman coil and is really a separate unit with it's
own output. The coils are wired in a counter-clockwise to clockwise configuration. It generates enough juice to power an LED but you can clearly see the inefficiencies in this design -ha.ha, the  CD is wobbling like crazy from the weight of the neo magnets and not being centered/balanced properly.. but it still works and the 9V still pumping the unbalanced load for long periods of time.. pretty interesting, this Newman motor now has 1 input power source and 2 output power sources both with different output voltages.
Does anyone here know of a Newman Motor Builders forum? I would like to take this somewhere apporopriate, my intention was not to hijack this thread..

Here is a vid showig the small generator I just added..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tx0rCLUe1lg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tx0rCLUe1lg)

@theb3e

With not one single post since June 28 before yours, I'd say you revived this thread from certain death, rather than hijacking it!

@Stefan

Thread title promises "positive proof".  I read every post so far.  I guess I missed the positive proof.  Is it when the video guy tells us so?  Is that the proof positive?  I didn't see any meters or scopes there.  Did you intend to imply that it was charging the battery faster than discharging it so that it would logically run forever while supplying motion and excess electric energy? 

Seriously, maybe I'm blind and stupid...I don't see the proof of that anywhere here.  Could you point it out please?  I'm thinking of building one for my class project and I need to know what exactly you consider to be the positive proof here.  Thanks!

Linda

Linda, you are right about the original video at the beginning of this thread as Not showing "positive proof". I'm not convinced it shows us anything at all, other than a guy that made a motor and stuck a fan blade on the end of it and is powered by a 12V car battery.
I myself am not convinced that you can recharge a battery with the back emf that is produced in it's unmodified state. I have noticed that when you try and charge a battery or capacitor with this pulsed signal, the battery or cap seems to take on the same characteristics. After a few hours of charging a small 6V cordless phone battery and taking some measurements, it reads the same as the voltage you are putting into it.. and it fluctuates up and down (pulsed) just like the charge you sent it.. I am pretty sure this is not good for the battery and I believe Joseph Newman even said in his early video's that batteries become damaged, not from putting such a big load on them, but rather the "back spike" is overcharging them. He sent some batteries into Rayovac I believe, and they confirmed the batteries were being over charged or charged too quickly. Mr. Newman stated Rayovac is working with him to develop a battery that will take this kind of "recharge"
So what can be done to modify the signal? So the question for me still is, can these pulses of high voltage be gathered, converted and used to recharge a battery effectively before the main power source runs out of juice?

Either way, I have noticed a few peculiar things that have intrigued me, so I will be taking this project to the next level (bigger machine). I am not the kind of guy that dismisses everything as a hoax, without doing my homework first.. so off I go!  ;D

Go for it, dude...you got the right attitude!  Plenty of enthusiasm tempered with a good dose of common sense and a bit of skepticism.  You are likely to proceed without deluding yourself!  Hurrah!

I'm sure your progress reports will be very welcome and useful...keep it up!

Linda

Hey Stefan..

Thanks for the tips on the rectifier circuit. I built one this evening and hooked it up to the newman motor. I used a 9V battery to power the Newman Machine which is now also spinning an extra rotor with magnets on it as a generator (not hooked up for this test) and I also put a diode inline with the positive + from the 9v battery to the coil. After the rectifier circuit I added a cap and from the cap to my volt meter, which I am happy to say now reads in DC voltage.. I was surprised to see 9v DC going into the newman motor and then rectified AC to 12v DC coming out!
I would imagine if I hook up the little generator thats built onto the side of my newman motor and rectify that signal then combine the two dc output voltages to get? .. something to try tomorrow night, pretty interesting stuff so far. If it all ends up not working, at least I have learned a little bit about electronics again..

Thanks for those tips Stefan... thanks for the Hurrah Linda..

cheers guys..

Hi guys! I am new here and also new researcher of the free energy..  8) As I noticed in this topic you all telling that this device work which is a little weird because in the Keith Tutt's book "The Madman, the Thief and Their Lightbulb" Joseph Newman and his machine is in the chapter of charlatans and cheaters, described like crazy man..  ??? ???

Just want to know what is the truth, do this device really work or not. If work is anyone use this device for powering his home, car, etc. Anything?

I am sorry of my English and hope you will understand me.  :-[ Just want something what is going to push me forward in this chase. Thanks!