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I started the replica of the newman machine like the one from this topic http://www.overunity.com/index.php/topic,2492.0.html

The first 3 photos are front/side/top view of the flower pot, the pot have 2 glued rollerskating bearing on the sides.

The last 2 photos are the wire I will use and the magnet I find in my old microwave.

I am not sure i how will able to put the wire around this but i will hopefully figure out soon!

Well done,
maybe you should just have used a more cylindrical plastic container
or something simular. Not so cone like...

Try to stay around 10 to 50 Milliamperes as the average input current,
then your battery will not discharge but will recharge from the RF bursts.
Just only measure  this with analog DC ampmeters. Digital meters
will get confused from the spikes..

If you make the coil too small and the voltage too high, so that it draws
on average more than 100 milliamps then it is not so good and battery
might discharge. Depends on the inductance L of your coil and the switching
frequency what your coil will draw in milliamps.

Make it this way, that it will draw 100 Milliamps if the magnet stand still,
then when it rotates and only makes short contact the average input current
will drop to around 20 milliamps or below,
depending also on the strengthof your magnets and you coil inductance L.

So lets calculate:
If you use a 12 Volt battery:
amps= Voltage / resistance.
so Resistance= Voltage / amps.

So 12 Volts / 0.1 amps= 120 Ohms.

So your coil should have at least 120 Ohms in DC resistance.

If you have lower DC resistance  just reduce the used voltage.
It would be good to at least use 2 to 10 Kgs of copper wire,
cause this matters. More wire makes it more efficient.

Good luck.
Regards, Stefan.

Quotemaybe you should just have used a more cylindrical plastic container
or something simular. Not so cone like.

yeah i know but i did not find any content with the right size also plastic is usually so small its will be hard to put wire around it, all flower pot are cone so he prob use something similar, its hard to see from the video

i dont know how many pound of wire i have but prob more then enough! I dont know if i will put all the wire around of just a part of it, my only problem is how to put the wire :), that will take foreever i guess

I will try to do that tomorrow, i was hoping seeing his part 5 video before starting the wire to make sure i dont do something stupid! he will prob tell more about his device on his next part.

Here the finished version (with wire)

I need to find out how to fix the magnet on this, right now its only for photo purpose you see the magnet inside, also i try to power up with 4 aa batteries and it was working

More stuffs later.

Well done,
maybe just take a flat piece of wood,
drill a hole through it and glue the magnets ontop and
onto the bottom of the wood and stick the axis through it and glue
the axis to the wood.That would be probably pretty easy to do.

Good luck.

Regards, Stefan.

Here what i have done

so far the motor seam to use more input then generating output :)

what is the best connection? i mean what is the % of rotation the coil need to be connected with the battery? I try less as possible but i am not sure if its the way to go

here the result with a crappy video from my mobile phone!

Very nice replication so far !

thank you!

this is my first device we can say! :)

Also i made a new video using a real camera, here the link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sk73ITQxkjE

I changed the connection a little bit, now its turn very slowly and just do a little pulse on a rotation like 10-20% contact max, and now i see the voltage with my multimeter go from 12 to 16 volt!

Before its was lower and the battery did not charge but the engine was turning faster like the last video. Now it turn so slow it's funny to see :)

I will see in few hours if the battery is charged back...

Well done,
yes,if you change the Fire angle versus magnet angle and it now
rotates slower you are working now in the generator regime and
not more so much in the motor regime.
So it is running slower but converts more stored magnetic energy from
the coil back to electrical energy via the spark to your battery.

Now it would really be helpfull,
if you could get some graphite and use this as the contact material
versus a copper ring on the axis shaft.
So you could get a better back current spike and even
charge up your battery better.

It all depends on the right commutator materials.

For instance drop some conducting tap water onto your
contact points and you will have totally different back current pulses,
much lower...Just try that for a short test....you will see the difference
of the contact materials. If the contact points are wet, it behaves differently...

ok thanks for your comment

I dont have graphite, i will try to find some this week, also i want to see if my battery will get charged up with what i have

You can easily get a graphite rod from an zinc carbon battery D-cell or AA-cell. Make sure it is really a zinc carbon cell you dissassemble and not the currently mostly used alkaline batteries, as these don?t have graphite rods...
Also you could just get a soft pencil, these also have conductive graphite in them mixed with clay, the softer the less clay in it....

Hi Guys:
How does the comuttator conexions work? How many cables do I have to wind? how many turns? where do I have to conect the cable coming out from the coil?
Please help!!!
I would like to follow you TheOne
Thank you!!!

so far its quite simple, one wire go on the negative battery and the other is on the shaft, i put some tape on the shaft so the other coil wire touch the metal a little bit per rotation, and one wire touch the shaft with the positive battery

for the amount of turn i dont know myseft lol, but mine is big i think, few pound of wire.

I stopped my motor, i changed something and i screw the voltage, so its not charging but seam to work with very few current. with some of test i was able to go from 11.98 volt to 12.02, but i screw something and after 3 hours the battery goes to 11.96, so i bet i need to put more work on the best arrangement for the communicator (tape on the shaft)

@TheOne
try to connect a graphite pencil to the coil wire
and then only touch via the pencil tip the
axis for contact.

Watch the different spark and watch the battery
voltage.

Hi,  The one and Stefan,

Could you tell if we need to wind 1 coil or 2 coils around the the pot or tube? And how the connection work?

And could someone draw a little shematic of the whole machine/
I really want to build this motor.

Thanks  Joe

Hi Joe,
just one coil.
But you could also wind 2 or 3 coils around it and
use the other coils as transformer outputs.
Due to the pulsed outputs these can drive very well fluorescent light bulbs !

If you only use one coil you just pulse this coil via the DC battery source
at the right moment when the magnet inside the coil is at the right position to
get attracted or repelled to turn another revolution.
So your commutator just only needs to switch on the current
inside the coil for a fraction of a full revolution at the same angle.
Thus you can just glue a tape onto the axis and leave a blank part of the axis
there and the wire of the coil
makes contact only when the wire does not hit the tape, but the metal axis shaft.

So you pulse only DC voltage to the coil synchroneously to the rotation
of the magnet  all the time without reversing
the current.

Hope this helps.

Regards. Stefan.

Here is a circuit diagram.

You could also use a reciprocating magnet inside the coil, that just goes up and down,
so to build a water pump for instance or a linear motor.

But the circuit diagram is the same , look here:

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Foverunity.com%2Fnewman2%2Fnewman1.gif&hash=ce87395d683efb01be4de63fa4a76820aecb81d4)

You can use this also for the rotating magnet inside the coil.

The switch  is the commutator point, so it switches on the current to the coil
in sync with the magnet movement and must be on the axis.

If you put a neon bulb as shown across the coil,
the recharge effect into the battery is less, but you would
get at least a flickering neon or fluorescent bulb.

Instead of the shunt resistor you can use an incandescent bulb
to use the RF bursts to light this up.

The circle with the A means ampmeter and can be bypassed after
measurements are done, so it does not work as a choke to block
the RF burst going back to the battery.

The shown values for the coil inductance L and DC resistance R were
from an earlier coil of mine requiring much higher battery voltage, so
if you use just 12 Volts go with a DC resistance of about 200 to 300 ohms.

Regards, Stefan.

Great!!!!!!!!!!!!   Stefan!

Thanks for the infos and the nice draw!!!!!!!!!!!!

Joe

P.S. The grounding is only related to the scope ground,
if you want to take scope measurements.
Otherwise don?t ground the Newman machine as this
will short out the RF bursts to ground, so the RF power
is lost..
That was also done by the National Buero of STandards buro test, so they
did not measure any overunity with it and they also did not have any
sparks ,cause they put resistors accross the coil and thus "perverted" the whole
function of the machine.
So the judge could rule not to grant Newman a patent...Great business ! ;(

Thank You The One!

1mm copper issolated wire works??
How Many Pounds of wire?

Thanks a lot.
Jorge

so far mine is not creating free energy so i am not the right person to to ask question :)

coper coated wire i used on mine (1mm)

For anybody, who wants to join in building this,
try to wind your coil this way, that you have taps to the outside
of the coil say at least 4 to 5 taps throughout the whole coil,
so if you gowith 4 taps, make one after 25 %, the second after 50 %,
the third after 75 % and the last is the end of the coil.
Okay, this means probably just 3 taps inside the coil ! ;) ;D

Now why ? the coil capacitance is also very important and
you can then use these taps to connect external capacitors with the partial coils then.

This way your coils gets a multiple LC circuit, which has the benefit to
store also capacitant energy and thus the back spike energy will be much bigger
and the coil can also charge up much quicker.
Tie all the taps via a about 100 nF cap to one end of the coil and then use this setup
as before.

Regards, Stefan.
P.S: It is always better to use bigger sized wire, but if we want a DC resistance of 300Ohms
at 12 Volts you would need for instance 5000 windings at 1 mm and
at 2 mm diameter wire size you would need maybe 20000 windings and 4 times the amount of copper mass.
So maybe with these taps you still can use the 1 mm wire only and thus use less
copper which is then less expensive and bulky...

Newman?s first machines had from 300 to 7500 pounds of copper wire
but I guess he only needed so much to get a bigger "stray capacitance"
for his coil.
Surely more windings will give a higher BackEMF voltage what we are looking for.

thank you both for the info, I?ll start to buy the items for my replica today, what kind of metal is the shaft made of? and what diameter can I use?

Thanks a lot, and forgive me for my so simple cuestions.
Best Regards
Jorge

i used roller skater ball bearing similar to this onehttp://cgi.ebay.ca/16-ABEC7-Bearings-608-2RS-IN-LINE-Inline-Roller-Skate_W0QQitemZ130124591187QQihZ003QQcategoryZ1301QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

and a stainless steal tube that fit into this size which is 8mm if i am right

"I have a video, but it is 19 meg.  If someone wants to convert it or tell me what I need to do to make it small for the forum.."

sign up with http://video.google.com (http://video.google.com/videouploadform?utm_campaign=gv-ww-hdr&utm_source=EM&utm_medium=link&hl=en) or http://youtube.com (http://youtube.com/signup?next=/my_videos_upload) and post the video there. then just give us the link for the video.


peace

I like your design, mine is not good i think because the coil is to wide and the magnet is far from the coil, i bet you will get better result then mine!

youtube use your existing email, youtube is more easy to use compared to google

I want to attempt replicating this project, but I'm having trouble understanding this schematic.
(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Foverunity.com%2Fnewman2%2Fnewman1.gif&hash=ce87395d683efb01be4de63fa4a76820aecb81d4)

I thought there was a hall ic in there somewhere... or something that oscillates???
Where is the contact point that rubs on the axle???
Is this really everything I need to replicate???
Meaning: 12v battery, some 28awg, 10ohm shunt resistor, and a couple neon bulbs?

If not please post a complete diagram listing all components needed and how they are wired.

~Dingus Mungus

Thanks a lot "THE ONE" for your answer I?ll use a 4" PVC piece of pipe and a Magnet that could be near of the coil, I?ll be in toch with pictures.
Thanks a lot!!!!!
Jorge

foes the shaft tube have to be touching the magnets?
Thanks again THE ONE!
Jorge

they can its not really an issue, like you see in the begining of this thread i used wood stick to put my magnet because both magnet have different size so i needed to balance a little bit and find a way to fix it more easyly on the shaft :)

Quote from: Dingus Mungus on June 14, 2007, 09:16:12 PM
I want to attempt replicating this project, but I'm having trouble understanding this schematic.
(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Foverunity.com%2Fnewman2%2Fnewman1.gif&hash=ce87395d683efb01be4de63fa4a76820aecb81d4)

I thought there was a hall ic in there somewhere... or something that oscillates???
Where is the contact point that rubs on the axle???
Is this really everything I need to replicate???
Meaning: 12v battery, some 28awg, 10ohm shunt resistor, and a couple neon bulbs?

If not please post a complete diagram listing all components needed and how they are wired.

~Dingus Mungus

Hi Dingus,
if you go with the reciprocating setup, where a magnet just slides in and out of the coil,
you have to make this circuit like a door ringer bell.
So connect one contact point to the bottom of the magnet and the other
beneath it.
So if the magnet falls into the coil it makes contact and the coil
repells the magnet out of the coil and the contact is broken, so the magnet
again falls back down making contact again and is repelled again out of the coil.

If you go with the rotating setup, you just need to make
contact once per revolution of the magnet at the right angle.
So you stick the contact to the axis via a commutator.
Pretty simple. No higher mathematics needed ! ;)  ;D

Regards, Stefan.

P.S: Replace the 10 ohm shunt with a incandescent bulb.
The shunt was only there for the scope measurement for
to see the back current spike on the scope.

Quote from: mramos on June 14, 2007, 07:24:57 PM
I should video it at night, the sparks are wild and jump out like lightning. 

I need to secure the bearings tonight and get rid of the duct take, because it torqued the bearings really hard and it has hit the coil a couple times when the magnets gave a little.

Looking good Mike.

Cannot wait this end to get home this weekend and have a play on knocking up one of these!

Regards compressing the video, if you are running Windows XP then just fire up Windows Movie Maker that comes with it. I allows you to mute your Videos and when you save the Movie out it saves it to .WMF which compresses it hell of alot and easier to upload etc etc.

Regards Sean.

Quote from: mramos on June 15, 2007, 08:02:19 AM

With your tools, you should be able to really get this thing going.  The tape idea will need to be replaced by electronics, I did the tape to see if it really worked.  It kills the tape in 30 minutes to an hour (but I marked the gap location).  So I can at least play.

Hi Mike

I was thinking about the tape wearing down with the spark after a while. Wonder if it is possible to paint something on the shaft that will be non conductive and tougher?

I do not know if the effect of getting the spark could be replaced by electronics as it seems to be this that is producing the magic juice!!.

Hope my wire turns up for this weekend, if not I will have to use one of the small 500g roles to begin with and see what resistance it gives me.

All good fun and keep it up mate :)

Cheers

Sean.

Hey guys, been following this thread and am thinking about making one of these, I had a similar Idea about the contacts, maybe use a reed switch? another one would be to use a couple of leaf type switches with a small cam on the shaft. these would at least keep the sparking component.

Just my .02

this is maybe possible to use it, i wanted to use it at the begining but i find out more easy to just put all the wire on the metal shaft :)

but maybe you can get a better result using it, also not sure if the sparks will be as high with a reed switch compared to the shaft

Quote from: hartiberlin on June 15, 2007, 02:29:14 AM
Hi Dingus,
if you go with the reciprocating setup, where a magnet just slides in and out of the coil,
you have to make this circuit like a door ringer bell.
So connect one contact point to the bottom of the magnet and the other
beneath it.
So if the magnet falls into the coil it makes contact and the coil
repells the magnet out of the coil and the contact is broken, so the magnet
again falls back down making contact again and is repelled again out of the coil.

If you go with the rotating setup, you just need to make
contact once per revolution of the magnet at the right angle.
So you stick the contact to the axis via a commutator.
Pretty simple. No higher mathematics needed ! ;)  ;D

Regards, Stefan.

P.S: Replace the 10 ohm shunt with a incandescent bulb.
The shunt was only there for the scope measurement for
to see the back current spike on the scope.

Sounds simple enough! (more simple then any other motor I've ever built....)
Well I bought some components yesterday, and I'll get some more this weekend.
I hope to have something to post by Monday!

Thanks Stefan!
~Dingus

Hi all im planing to build one of these, i have two ring magnets ordered and have been thinking of using a cardboard cylinder that i can obtain for free and cut the end of it instead of using a flower pot, the cylinder will be about 4 inches wide, i will proberbly be getting my copper wire from a car alternator for free hopefully, ill then need my axel with im not sure what type of metal i should use, the size of it will depend on what bearings i can get.

I wasnt aware of this site until i seen the youtube video of that guy with his fan, i havnt build a f@#*ing thing in my life but im determined to build this, im paying close attention to everyone here and have watch the youtube video countless times trying to take it all in as there are no drawn blueprints available.

I basically understand most of what im supossed to do but im not 100% certain about where all the wires get connected, i know one side of the flower pot has the negative from the battery and has one end of the coil brush against the axel where the sticky tape is and the other end of the coil is connected to the positive, so what else more to it is there? i seen on the youtube video on the other side of the flower pot that the positive brushes against the axel is that true it was a little hard to see.

Is anyone gunna put up plans for the wireing with this kind of newman machine?

the wiring is easy, you use the coil, one of the wire go to the negative side of the battery, the other touch the shaft (like a pulse) and the positive side of the batterie is connected to the shaft directly

Thanks the one so where should the magnet be when the wire touches, eg should it be at the part of the revolution when the 2 magnets a vertical or horizontal?

i was doing that but i am not sure if its the best location, but when the magnet are at the opposite of the coil field its prob the bigger push you can get

MRamos

I shrunk your Video and sent it back on email, did you get it okay that end?

If not do you want me to upload from this end?

Cheers

Sean.

MRamos's video attached.

********* Tried to attach but same problem with timeouts so have popped it up on my server and link below ***********

http://www.overunity.org.uk/mramos.wmv

Good job Mike!!!

Back to the workshop here, things are going well and will catch up on posts later :)

you better to create a youtube account :)

your output is better then mine, maybe i should get rid of the flower pot and make it more like this one

Well a good day in the workshop today and getting there, so an update from me :)

First picture below is a re-hash of the 50mm * 10mm Magnet I am going to use.
I did not like the brass holding setup that I did last weekend, so now have milled out two halves of 8mm polycarbonate to set it in. I will tap out the end and put a thread on the axle.
The width came out at 70mm side to side.

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overunity.org.uk%2Fclanz-newman1.jpg&hash=b2f77116b8cf9e73c2e45d9df88c0fbc3143627e)

Next I found some Carboard tubing which was 82mm external and 75mm internal. Excellent this will give me a nice close gap for the magnet to coil.
I then milled out two 140mm end caps, this will do two things.
1.) Hold the carboard tube in place while winding and also form a lip.
2.) Leaving base plate on after the winding that will give a nice stand.

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overunity.org.uk%2Fclanz-newman2.jpg&hash=d93edcf05c4d8700f1f25c351adce7a573fed53e)

I then glued the two end caps to the tube and also milled out some couplers, so I could attach it to the winding machines axle.
I wanted to be able to remove the couplers from the end caps after the coil winding was done, so instead of glueing the couplers I tapped out some holes and used come bolts.

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overunity.org.uk%2Fclanz-newman3.jpg&hash=1f379455f0554abb3d1283162a0e0c6fac19f38a)

The only thing missing now is how to get the Axle through the carboard, so lathed and threaded some 20mm Perspex bar. I then drill a 8mm hole through to take the 6mm axle.
I will mill out two bearing holders for the end of these rods after it is wound.
I drill some holes in the cardboard tube and the bars screwed in nicely and became rigid as they tightened up.
In the background the middle magnet has been pressed into it's new housing a couple of clamps will hold it tight as the glue dries.

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overunity.org.uk%2Fclanz-newman4.jpg&hash=2b82b85171f7f5377f4c0e271a4e68b40d74096d)

Below you can see the Axle Tubes mounted into the cardboard.

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overunity.org.uk%2Fclanz-newman5.jpg&hash=878a6e5348344ff9c155882ac8a11817ab4d5794)

Final picture below is with the TO-BE coil mounted in my home made winding machine.
I have used the parts that I build my milling machines out of.
So top Axis stepper simply turns the axle with TO-BE coil attached and bottom Axis Stepper will move side to side with precision accuracy.
Just have to now make a reel mount for the source wire and a tensioner to feed the wire.

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overunity.org.uk%2Fclanz-newman6.jpg&hash=1d3ce0f3c5d14ccd432162b11e052d7407ba1620)

Will spend tomorrow rigging up the steppers to a circuit and writing some code to control it.
Nice thing with the steppers is that I should be able to write the code so the wire gets evenly wrapped around the Perspex Bar as it moves along.

More to come

Regards

Sean.

Hi Newman Machine amazing builders!

@The Initial 'flower pot' constructor...
@The (Very) One, Mramos and others clever manufacturers...
Thank you. Great jobs.

I whish I also had my own sparkling device. But do I absolutely need a flower pot? ;D

@Harti_Berlin: Thanks also for your precious advices.
As I can guess it, you have built a Newman machine with huge windings. My French current supplier does not deliver large insulated copper wire spool. Most of big French compagnies frown upon selling retail or to individuals.
My question is : could you direct me (and others) to a serious German compagny (yes, 'serious' and 'German' is a pleonasm. Is it not?  :)) wich could agree to sell a single big coper wire spools (0.5 m/m  and 3 or 5 kg or more for example) and to send such item in France?

Best

what a beast!

@ Clanzer
:o
You've out done yourself this time...
Thats a beautiful winging rig and plastic body for the motor.
Even though your rig appears to be the most complex and persice
you'll still probably beat most of us to replication.

Your build speed is amazing!!!

~Dingus Mungus

Are the magnets supposed to touch the axel or are the spaces supposed to keep the magnets from contacting with the axel? sorry just there are still things im not 100% certain about i thought maybe the magnets dont touch the axel and the spacers is what sticks to the axel, and also are the magnets supposed to have opposite poles faceing each other or not?

the magnet can touch it its not really important, they just need to be fixed on the shaft

@ Clanzer

Very Nice Indeed!

@seekingknowledge

the magnets should be in 'attraction mode' that is attracted to each other

 ;D

YAY!!!

I built the recipricating version first... It works great!
More vibrate than recipricate, but it does work like described.
I'll keep messing with it while I build the flower pot motor next.

LOL... Flower pot motor...
::grin::

~Dingus Mungus

P.S. I'll try to post the pics tomorrow... too tired tonight.

What a day !!! Not even opened my Fathers day cards yet :)

Okay got the Coil Winding machine going today and well pleased with it. I took it at a low speed to start with but will speed it up when doing other coils, but for now did not want to push it.

I have attached a small video but also have uploaded a hi res video for people that have the bandwidth.
The Hi-Res Video can be download from
http://www.overunity.org.uk/CLaNZeRSCoilWindingMachine.avi   (60Meg)

The low Res as stated above is attached to this post or can be download at:
http://www.overunity.org.uk/CLaNZeRSCoilWindingMachine.wmv   (3.5Meg)

I used two stepper motors that require 200 pulses per revolution.
The Stepper controller unit I am uses is set to 1/8th mode so 1600 pulses will turn each stepper 1 full revolution.

The TO-BE coil is attached to a direct shaft and so that was easy enough, just send 1600 pulses to the stepper and I got my full turn.

The other Axis simply moved along 0.25mm after each revolution as the wire was 0.25mm thick.
The Axis is on a trapezium thread which gives 3MM travel per revolution (Tr 12x3) so 1600 pulses will make it travel 3MM, so I simply divided that down and that gave me 133 pulses to make it travel 0.25 after each revolution.
After 85 revolutions it hit the Rod stuck in the To-BE Coil and so I simply told the code that after it had done 85 revolutions to move the Axle 17mm across and hence avoiding the 16mm Rod.
It then did another 85 winds and reversed it self, again doing the 17MM skip on th way back.

Below is a picture of the coil nearly finished on the Winding Rig.
I ended up winding 1955 turns and got 188 ohms. I was gonna leave it running longer to get over 200 ohms but the wire got snagged when I was not paying attention and broke :(.
But will try it at 188 ohms for now.
It is 34swg 0.25MM wire I have used.

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overunity.org.uk%2Fclanwound1.jpg&hash=8030cd90c9bbb53f73b6f916bfb702285844c8d5)

After I had finished winding it, I tape it up and snapped off the top lid to end up with the finished Pot Motor below.

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overunity.org.uk%2Fclanwound2.jpg&hash=68bee1b89ce14cd1dd414c028122d6fffddcf3fd)

The Magnet holder glue has now all dried and off to lathe down some bars and put a thread on them.
Then all that is left is to Mill out some bearing holders to go on the end of the Axle poles and put her together.

Main thing I have learnt off this is that I did not need the huge 140mm end Caps as took less wire than I thought.
But good for Mark 1 of the Pot Motor :)

More to come, but may have to wait to next weekend !!

Cheers

Sean.

hehe it's really look more pro then mine ;)
i winded my wire with my own hand!:)

Quote from: TheOne on June 17, 2007, 04:28:34 PM
hehe it's really look more pro then mine ;)
i winded my wire with my own hand!:)

As long as the end result is the same TheOne :)

I am just a lazy Git and look at anyway of getting around bordem LOL

Been meaning to try out a few projects that require coils but the hand winding always put me off, so now I can catch up on those projects as well.

Now got to find time to catch up on the threads before another week away from home :(

Keep up the good work that end.

Regards

Sean.

Thanks a Lot CLaNZeR!

At last some one who think about teaching us Mortals, that do not understand much of electronics, a lot of people like me are following you, thats for sure.
Thank?s again!
Good luck, and happy father?s day.
Jorge

Here are some pics of my replication.
Working on the pot motor now...

~Dingus

edit: a video also...

Quote from: Dingus Mungus on June 18, 2007, 05:33:45 AM
Here are some pics of my replication.
Working on the pot motor now...

~Dingus

edit: a video also...

Looking good Dingus.

Can you explain more on how it works?

I did a search on google for Newman recipricating Motor but did not come back with a lot.

Cheers

Sean.

Quote from: jorgerojo on June 17, 2007, 11:34:45 PM
At last some one who think about teaching us Mortals, that do not understand much of electronics, a lot of people like me are following you, thats for sure.

Hi Jorge

Thanks for that :)

I do not understand that much about electronics either LOL :). I am all self taught an just pick up what I need to know on each project. Dun't think my brain could hold as much info as other guys on these forums.

What I do like to do though is share the build info as I do it, because if I finally get something to work, then people will see how it was made and should be able to copy it. I am all for Open Source and sharing with others anything I learn on my journey.

Regards

Sean.

Quote from: mramos on June 17, 2007, 11:35:31 PM
Sean, just popping in to do the same (skipped the empty promise guy lol).  Back to my real job tomorrow.  Weekends go fast for sure.

Coil looks good.  Let me know what you find with it.  Mine has a crossed coil in the middle, like the window motor.  Odd thing. 

I went back and looked at my pictures from a couple nights ago as the battery was at 11.24V (at rest) this morning.  Somehow it went up.  Tonight it is 12.04 volts.  Very weird.  I ran it for 15 minutes maybe today, when I had a second.

Also, I notice the motor will run along, then after so many minutes, it takes off at a much higher RPM (for maybe a minute) then slow back to what I would call normal speed.  If it was the tape giving up it would not return back to normal.  I have seen it do this many times.

Waiting to see what you get next weekend.  Will keep playing here tomorrow night.  11:34PM and tired as heck..  Nice work as usual.

Mike

Hi Mike

I have been thinking about the tape replacing side of things.

How about just stripping of the PVC cover of some 6MM copper wire and using this. Simply cut a Window in the PVC and slide it over the shaft?

Strange like you say about the increase RPM's and then dropping off, be good to pop a tacho on it and measure the speed.

Back to work for the week this end :( but will play more next weekend and hopefull have a spinning motor atleast :)

Cheers

Sean.

Quote from: hartiberlin on June 15, 2007, 02:29:14 AM
(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Foverunity.com%2Fnewman2%2Fnewman1.gif&hash=ce87395d683efb01be4de63fa4a76820aecb81d4)

Hi Dingus,
if you go with the reciprocating setup, where a magnet just slides in and out of the coil,
you have to make this circuit like a door ringer bell.
So connect one contact point to the bottom of the magnet and the other
beneath it.
So if the magnet falls into the coil it makes contact and the coil
repells the magnet out of the coil and the contact is broken, so the magnet
again falls back down making contact again and is repelled again out of the coil.

If you go with the rotating setup, you just need to make
contact once per revolution of the magnet at the right angle.
So you stick the contact to the axis via a commutator.
Pretty simple. No higher mathematics needed ! ;)  ;D

Regards, Stefan.

P.S: Replace the 10 ohm shunt with a incandescent bulb.
The shunt was only there for the scope measurement for
to see the back current spike on the scope.

So I tested the reciprocating version first just to see a simple proof of concept.
Its a 12v 4ah backup battery, 200 feet of 30g wire, and two 1"x.25" neo cylinders.
From positive terminal the coil begins and the last 2 feet were left to connect to the
floating magnet. Once the magnet is levitating on the other magnets field you can
add a tin foil contact in the tube between the magnet and the negitive terminal, when
gavity pulls the magnet down it closes the circuit and the magnet is repulsed up the
tube. When it falls back to its start position it creates a high frequency BEMF pulse
that will really mess with your meters sometimes. An interesting proof of concept.

~Dingus

Quote from: Dingus Mungus on June 18, 2007, 07:39:44 AM
So I tested the reciprocating version first just to see a simple proof of concept.
Its a 12v 4ah backup battery, 200 feet of 30g wire, and two 1"x.25" neo cylinders.
From positive terminal the coil begins and the last 2 feet were left to connect to the
floating magnet. Once the magnet is levitating on the other magnets field you can
add a tin foil contact in the tube between the magnet and the negitive terminal, when
gavity pulls the magnet down it closes the circuit and the magnet is repulsed up the
tube. When it falls back to its start position it creates a high frequency BEMF pulse
that will really mess with your meters sometimes. An interesting proof of concept.

~Dingus

I understand all that I was wondering where the Cereal packets fit into the circuit hehehe  ;D ;D ;D

Again good work Dingus

Cheers

Sean.

Forgive me if this sounds stupid.  What if the rotor turning acting as a source of current and the final output fed back into the motor (no battery).  Could the extra energy thats materializing enough to power itself after a couple seconds?  Say if the rotor had enough momentum.

i don't think so, well i did not try but i removed the magnet from it so i cannot test anymore, i bet not, well on mine at least

We would need some scope shots to figure out the RMS, but I would assume the device
requires more developement before it'll run in a truely closed loop. (aka no battery)

~Dingus

hey guys, just getting into this thing, just wondering what material the shaft is made of?  more conductive the better? thanks

stainless steel in my case, it must conduct electricity if you use it for the communicator, if its not the case you case use anything

Use brushes off a very small motor.

If I tune mine right i get 2mm arcs off the brushes with a 6 volt battery.
I have 10 pounds of 20 gauge wire now 30 ohms, still not enough wire.

   Number 20 wire is a bit big. I am just ready to start winding mine and its using 26. I have around 9000 ft of it so it will have to do.

   Here is an idea I will be using for the comm. Instead of using tape on the shaft, tape it all the way around and then tape a piece of say 18 ga wire on it and ground to the shaft. Will see how well it fares

sugra

Anyone know of cheaper/better wire venders?
http://www.electromechanicsonline.com/default.asp?cat=Wire%2C+Magnet

I'm looking to buy a big spool if you know what I mean.

~Dingus Mungus

Hi

You might want to have a look at this guy's experiments regarding a gain in voltage on account of the sparking over at -

http://www.intalek.com/Index/Projects/SparkGapExp/SparkGapExp.htm

Very tidy and well laid out work.

He is using  Carbon/Graphite and  Thoriated Tungsten rods for contact points.  You can get these at welding shops. The Carbon/graphite rod looks like a common gouging rod.

I am trying now on my motor with carbon rod from an old dry cell battery and this thoriated tungsetn rod. Don't know that it will make my experiment self sufficient but the spark is real pretty if nothing else - kind of a purple color.

Quote from: Dingus Mungus on June 18, 2007, 07:39:44 AM

Quote from: hartiberlin on June 15, 2007, 02:29:14 AM

Hi Dingus,
if you go with the reciprocating setup, where a magnet just slides in and out of the coil,
you have to make this circuit like a door ringer bell.
So connect one contact point to the bottom of the magnet and the other
beneath it.
So if the magnet falls into the coil it makes contact and the coil
repells the magnet out of the coil and the contact is broken, so the magnet
again falls back down making contact again and is repelled again out of the coil.

If you go with the rotating setup, you just need to make
contact once per revolution of the magnet at the right angle.
So you stick the contact to the axis via a commutator.
Pretty simple. No higher mathematics needed ! ;)  ;D

Regards, Stefan.

P.S: Replace the 10 ohm shunt with a incandescent bulb.
The shunt was only there for the scope measurement for
to see the back current spike on the scope.

So I tested the reciprocating version first just to see a simple proof of concept.
Its a 12v 4ah backup battery, 200 feet of 30g wire, and two 1"x.25" neo cylinders.
From positive terminal the coil begins and the last 2 feet were left to connect to the
floating magnet. Once the magnet is levitating on the other magnets field you can
add a tin foil contact in the tube between the magnet and the negitive terminal, when
gavity pulls the magnet down it closes the circuit and the magnet is repulsed up the
tube. When it falls back to its start position it creates a high frequency BEMF pulse
that will really mess with your meters sometimes. An interesting proof of concept.

~Dingus

Welldone Dingus,
so did you have a look at the input current via a shunt resistor
and a scope ?
How does the input current look alike in this setup ?
Can you see a back current RF burst when you contact points
open ?

Regards, Stefan.

Hi Dingus,
your input current would probably look like this
on a scope:

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Foverunity.com%2Fnewman2%2Fmyspike1.jpg&hash=5d00e11036c8b7ee8862eddab14bb73a2d83dede)
(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Foverunity.com%2Fnewman2%2Fmyspike2.jpg&hash=2710bb89cebd2d7922a30aa67ccdd70b1f312082)
(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Foverunity.com%2Fnewman2%2Fmyspike3.jpg&hash=9b85e9e3ea101c60b7e08c62a28529e4c6cf1c7c)

Can you confirm this ?

Now try to put a 2 to 5 Watts incandescant bulb instead of the
10 Ohm shunt there:

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Foverunity.com%2Fnewman2%2Fnewman1.gif&hash=ce87395d683efb01be4de63fa4a76820aecb81d4)
and don?t ground anything and don?t put any meters in there.
Just the motor, the battery and the incandescant bulb.

You will be able to light up the bulb by these RF bursts,
if you can break the circuit fast enough.

Regards, Stefan.

I don't have a osciliscope right now...

When I moved back here to arizona I did so with only the clothes on my back and a few bucks. I'll buy a new scope asap though. I can confirm BEFM pulses coming from my replication. Both my power supply, and meters go wacky displaying impossible voltages. Now on the digital meters its obviously bugging out from the high frequencies, but the power supply was definitely getting feedback spikes when I tested with it. I also tryed to use a bulb to detect any RF, but I can't get it to flicker yet. Now I've been running on a 12v battery for a few days on and off. Nothing conclusive so far though. I'll report any new findings when I can.

~Dingus

Hartiberlin im going to be getting my copper wire out of some old car alternators assuming that the copper from one alternator may not be enough , if the copper from one alternator isnt enuf am i able to join the copper from another by tying a a little knot in them? or is there some other way of joining them? or does the coil have to made up of the one lot of copper?

@seekingknowledge

yes,you can just solder the splicing points together and wound around it some
plastic tape.
You can also use this splicing point to add there some "tap wire", so you
lead this point outside the coil and can connect some external capacitor there,
which will help the coil store more capacitive charges, which is what we need.

The "stray" capacitance of the coil is the thing which will increase with more wire
and is one secret to get more output from the back current spike into the batteries
back.

Regards, Stefan.

Here at this Lutec video you can see at minute
0:53 to 0:55
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=my9FO69Vs74
the backspike on the scope ( here into positive direction...

they should have inverted the scope ?s input channel)
and the spark at the commutator that is producing this backspike.

So the Lutec technology is basically the same as the Newman technology based
of:
The direct electrical conversion of burning ( oxidation) a carbon brush into
electrical energy.

The Lutec people also only get it to work with mechanical switching,
as with electronic switching there is no sparking and thus no oxidation
and thus no additional energy into the circuit !

Regards, Stefan.

P.S: On this scope view you can not see the input current as the amps/ div
setting is just too big.
You just see only the big back current spike, when the commutator is
switching.
As Lutec uses much iron in their design, the back spike looks much like
a (sine)^2 pulse, so there are no RF bursts with it as in the Newman
devices.
The bigger older Newman devices with hundreds pounds of copper
wire  also had much more DC current components
superimposed on the RF bursts, so that depends on the inductance
and the stray capacitance of the coil.

Quote from: seekingknowledge on June 22, 2007, 06:24:46 AM
Hartiberlin im going to be getting my copper wire out of some old car alternators assuming that the copper from one alternator may not be enough

Its hard work but:
if you are looking for enamelled copper wire, find an
old dumped and scrapped microwave oven. Open it up,
and remove the big transformer near the "mains in". With an
angle grinder, cut through the steel laminated core, and with
difficulty, you will be able to carefully wriggle out three coils,
two with thinner wire, and one with thicker wire. You may need
to use water to soak off some stiff paper.

As you uncoil the wire (slowly and carefully, you may crack the
enamel insulating coating. You may need to paint a bit more on.

(Don't forget the nice ceramic magnets in the magnetron unit which
comes off the cooking chamber)

Paul.

Hi MRAMOS,
try to use better around 100 nF foil capacitors, which go to over
1000 Volts or just try the AC caps, but only try it behind
a safety wall, so if the electrolyte cap blows up you will
not get hit...
These voltage and current spikes from the coil can really
blow up electrolyte caps, so better use high voltage foil caps.

A capacitance of around 100 nF to 1 uF is enough.
If you have one tap inside the coil just connect the cap from the
tap to one end.
Try to which one  end is better.
Be sure to not use DC electrolyte caps if you use electrolyte caps at all!
10 uF might still be too big and if you have several of these better
put 2 or 4 in series, so it goes more into the direction 1 uF.
Too big capacitance could drain the battery too fast as it has to
provide the energy to charge the cap upin the first place.

Hmm,
what shunt did you use to take the input current scope shot ?
Is the scope grounded ?
Please remove the grounding.
What is your DC coil resistance in Ohm ?
Probably you have much to low resistance and too few coil wire.
Also the spark should be to see much bigger on the scope,so you have
very few energy stored in your coil somehow...

Is this now with Tungsten and graphite at the commutator ?

nice replica also nice toe! :)

MRAMOS,
steel on steel as the commtator is not good.

Try to use a graphite pencil or a graphite rod from
an old used zinc-carbon battery as one contact and put this
versus the steel.
Or glue a copper foil or alufoil onto the shaft and use this
versus the graphite pencil (graphite rod) contact.

You need the right dissimular metal contact points to get more spark RF power.

Quote from: mramos on June 22, 2007, 03:25:29 PM
The comm is steal on steal.

I guess I need to re-wind the coil.  Was waiting on Clanzer to get home for the weekend and see he results before I added more wire.

Got home this end!! about 30 minutes ago, Flight back home was delayed grrrrrrrrrr

It now 21:53 Friday evening in UK and too knackered to go finish the motor off, but will be straight on it tomorrow Afternoon :)

Got some new bearings arrive and some 6mm Steel and Brass Rods also !

Gonna catch up on posts now and do a couple of glasses of wine hehe

Mike I will also catch up on emails this weekend, this week was very manic :(

But your Rig is looking good mate and as TheOne said, nice Toe  :o

Cheers

Sean.

Quote from: hartiberlin on June 22, 2007, 04:29:22 PM
MRAMOS,
steel on steel as the commtator is not good.

Try to use a graphite pencil or a graphite rod from
an old used zinc-carbon battery as one contact and put this
versus the steel.
Or glue a copper foil or alufoil onto the shaft and use this
versus the graphite pencil (graphite rod) contact.

You need the right dissimular metal contact points to get more spark RF power.

Are normal motor brushes any good placed with a gap obviiously to get the Arc? what are they made of ?

@Mramos
Great replication! Thansk for helping out with the scope shots. no BEMF though...
I noticed you're using heavy 18 awg wire. How many feet of wire is in your coil?

@Clanzer
How long did your stepper motor winding robot take to make your coil?
Are you still planning to wind a denser coil? I'll trade you fresh spools for coils...
;D

~Dingus

Quote from: CLaNZeR on June 22, 2007, 04:57:42 PM


Are normal motor brushes any good placed with a gap obviiously to get the Arc? what are they made of ?

Yes,these are also made out of high durable conductive graphite.
Use them and make a fine tip out of them so they just barely
contact the copper commutator plates and have a gap in the commutator
plates, so they make only contact not all the time, but in sparking pulses.

Quote from: Dingus Mungus on June 22, 2007, 06:33:05 PM
@Mramos
Great replication! Thansk for helping out with the scope shots. no BEMF though...
I noticed you're using heavy 18 awg wire. How many feet of wire is in your coil?

@Clanzer
How long did your stepper motor winding robot take to make your coil?
Are you still planning to wind a denser coil? I'll trade you fresh spools for coils...
;D

~Dingus

I ran it pretty slow, the steppers were running at a pulse of 140us which is 406mm travel a minute, but you can pulse those small steppers upto a max of about 35us pulse width 1625.6mm a minute.

The coil was wound 85 rotations to the middle axle support rods, then skipped 17mm and wound another 85 rotations ats 0.25mm a rotation.
Too late to do the maths this end, but it did not take long to nearly do 2000 winds even at slow speeds LOL

Let me try it out this weekend and if it looks promising I will be more than happy to wind a coil for any of the guys that have shown interest in this thread so far and post it out to them. But lets get it right first!

Got to use up this 3.2kg spool of wire somehow LOL

Regards

Sean.

Quote from: hartiberlin on June 22, 2007, 06:44:00 PM

Quote from: CLaNZeR on June 22, 2007, 04:57:42 PM


Are normal motor brushes any good placed with a gap obviiously to get the Arc? what are they made of ?

Yes,these are also made out of high durable conductive graphite.
Use them and make a fine tip out of them so they just barely
contact the copper commutator plates and have a gap in the commutator
plates, so they make only contact not all the time, but in sparking pulses.

Thanks Stefan

Will try with wire first but have some old motors here that I can strip the brushes out of and put on the grinding wheel.

Time for bed now as knackered LOL

Regards

Sean.

@Clanzer
Well thats sounds down right convienient...
I just got 150 feet of 26awg that I'll use to make my first pot motor replication,
but as you said once we start getting it "right", I'm hoping to send you another
multi killogram spool in exchange for a nice big coreless coil base like yours. I just
hope I don't get in to TPU replication in the mean time! It's like crack I tell you!

THANKS TO ALL FOR YOUR HARD WORK!
~Dingus Mungus

Grrrrrrrr DO NOT Wind a Coil as below because it causes a not so nice Sticky point/spot :)

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overunity.org.uk%2Fclanwound1.jpg&hash=8030cd90c9bbb53f73b6f916bfb702285844c8d5)

The rig is finished below but shame about the coil.

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overunity.org.uk%2Fnewmansticky.jpg&hash=5823d94c601587030d9ee00e041a6570b5128ef6)

Have a look at the video attached and you will see that when the ring magnet is vertical and I touch the Comm, then yep sure enough it kicks away, but because of the gap in the middle of the coil I get a nice sticky spot.

Off to wind a new one at a angle maybe hehehe

Regards

Sean.

i am not sure if its related to the coil, i think your communicator is 90 degree offset?

Quote from: TheOne on June 23, 2007, 02:12:09 PM
i am not sure if its related to the coil, i think your communicator is 90 degree offset?

Hi TheOne

I moved the tape to various positions on the shaft and found the best kicked was when the Ring magnet was vertical outside the coil. Sometimes it would do a full revolution and the spark would set it off on it's next but most of the time it would hit the spot in the tube where there is no wire and stop solid.
If I applied the power on full time the Ring Magnet would sit in the coil gap and you could not move the axle either way, it was stuck fast as such.

I am 90% this is the coil, it is no hassle to wind another one quickly and will see.

Cheers

Sean.

Did not get time to wind the new coil today as had to do a bit with the family, but managed to mill out a new end cap and cut some 80mm acrylic tube ready for winding as below.
Nice thing about using acrylic tube is that I can cut a 10mm hole and mount some mini bearings and do away with the axle holders that I had to use with the cardboard tube.

What I plan to do this time while winding is to poke out of the bearings on the acylic tube about 10mm of rod and just let the winding machine run the wire over these, then I will simply remove the rod and push the slack wire to the side before taping up. This should give me the full coil coverage I need.

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overunity.org.uk%2Fclanzprewind.jpg&hash=8a234a371b2f86efcd7e046c981be032e579cbf7)
More tomorrow

Cheers

Sean.

Well she runs, have attached a picture and Video.

The coil now has no gap after a bit of messing around with coil winding machine and it kicks around the full rotation now.

I am running it with a 12 Volt Battery and it is pulling around 10ma as can be seen on the video.

The coil is now 2000 winds of 0.25 wire around a 80mm tube and is exactly 200 ohms.

With this much resistance in the coil it seems hard to get a spark as no current is hardly being pulled, but it has been running for over 1 hour now and there is a very small spark and the battery has now dropped at all.

Also I am not sure on whether the NEO ring magnet is a good or bad thing, umm might try get a Ceramic and see if there is a difference.

Going to mess around with the  timing a bit to see if I can get some more RPM's out of it. I measured it with a laser Tacho earlier and it was doing 200 RPM.

Cheers

Sean.

Quote from: mramos on June 24, 2007, 10:58:19 AM
Sean,

When you wind the new coil, can you make the coils more horizontal than vertical on the tube (flower pot).  Same wraps, but in a smaller area so they stick out more (say you had a 2" wide coil on each size, make is 1")..  Also, I have a lot more on the criss-cross of the axle.  And my fire point is when the ring is a couple degrees past the winding.  And man does it throw that thing around with 12volts.  Why I need more windings :D

Sounds like something is surely wrong with that first coil. 

I have been in family mode as well, and looks like I will be today as well.  So I am out until next week, not sure I have enough wire to get 200 ohms anyway.

Mike

Oh, there is a post on a peturbing static field you might want to look at as well.  Looks pretty simple if it works. 

Hi Mike

I think you will find that if you increase your windings the kick on the motor will not be as powerfull but it will pull less current.
I am going to strip down the 1st coil and cut it back to 50 ohms and prove whether I am right on this.
Will let you know!!

Darn weekend is going fast again so runnign out of time, but only 7 weeks left and might be working back home during the week :) :)

Cheers

Sean.

Stripped the 1st coil back to 39 ohms and spread the wire across the middle.

Just as I thought over 1000RPM and hell of a kick, nice spark with the lights out but pulls 50ma at 12volts.

Video attached.

Cheers

Sean

ha looks better now!

the conclusion about all this replications is maybe we can get some OU out of hit but not that much to usefull stuffs ?

Hi Sean,
well done,
but at 50 mA as in the second example, you are draining your battery too much...
Better would have been to keep the 200 Ohm winding, so you have more wire and
go to 24 Volts input , so put 2 batteries in series.

Anyway, now please try with your current setup in the 50 mA  case to light
a 2 to 3 Watts  incandescent bulb.

Just connect it there, where you have the ampmeter now.
So remove the ampmeter and connect there the bulb.
Or just short out the ampmeter  with the bulb.

Many thanks.

Quote from: hartiberlin on June 24, 2007, 05:36:53 PM
Hi Sean,
well done,
but at 50 mA as in the second example, you are draining your battery too much...
Better would have been to keep the 200 Ohm winding, so you have more wire and
go to 24 Volts input , so put 2 batteries in series.

Anyway, now please try with your current setup in the 50 mA  case to light
a 2 to 3 Watts  incandescent bulb.

Just connect it there, where you have the ampmeter now.
So remove the ampmeter and connect there the bulb.
Or just short out the ampmeter  with the bulb.

Many thanks.

Will try the bulb this weekend when back home.

Not happy with the strength or straightness of the existing magnet and axle but...
have managed to source two 45mm by 4mm neo ring magnets from Germany and will run the axle all the way through this time and mill out a new custom holder. This should help cut down the friction and make it alot smoother.

If the magnets have arrived home I will post an update over the weekend.

Cheers

Sean.

Quote from: mramos on June 29, 2007, 11:50:07 AM
Sean, was that really yours with a bent shaft, left end was all over..  LOL..

Looks good. 

I did not make it for the 1600 feet of wire this week (mpja.com), but will add that I have left and re-wrap this weekend.  I need to get graphite on mine as well.

So hope to play this weekend.

I keep seeing this wheel that have magnets and no sticky point, I might try a small version on the red bearing wheel as well :)

The bent shaft grrrrrrr I know, I know LOL :)
I milled out a magnet holder and then tapped both ends of it so I could screw two seperate Rods into it. In the rush I screwed one of them in too tight and hear a not so nice crack. This was fine for the first 50 or so turns but then it started to wobble!!
The next one will be alot more stable I promise hehe

What wheel do you keep seeing????? more info please :)

Cheers

Sean.

Quote from: mramos on June 29, 2007, 01:33:09 PM
Sean,

Here in the wheel video.  There is a thread on it here too.  Looks interesting..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=91iCppzXuXw

Thread:

http://www.overunity.com/index.php/topic,2482.0.html

Ah this one, yep looks good but I think he may come up against the back drag when he places either another Stator or extra magnets on the disc at 180 degrees.

Have seen a few designs getting past the sticky point/spot but as soon as you add an extra Stator magnet or Rotor magnet it fails because  it is surprising even on a big wheel the effect the extra magnets have even at a distance.

I demonstrated in this thread below how you can get past the sticky point/spot with MuMetal
http://www.overunity.com/index.php/topic,2527.0.html

But in saying that you got to keep trying and nice wheel he has there.

Just got home for the weekend this end but no new magnets to play with :(

Cheers

Sean.

Hello  !!  Great stuff guys!! .... i am  planing on  building  a newman machine ,,as i seen on Youtube A guy called "chuck2" built one ...but i would like to know  some details  about the wiring .

On Youtube Chuck2 descibed  the wiring ..but i couldent  make  out  some of the details... I  Drew a Picture   witch ill post  below on what i could make out...
if it needs  any corrections , please feel  free to copy  my drawing an re-post it

thank you  soo soo much in advanced!  :John

Neat design...

It's not exactly what we're building here though. In the design you see here the battery is located between the constant contact on the shaft and the stator coil. I should point out though, If you wound the coils to match the magnetic geometry of your shaft the design you posted would work to turn the shaft. I don't know how it would effect the BEMF spikes, but it would be interesting to see it tested here.

Good luck on your replication!
~Dingus Mungus

EDIT: HA! I was just thinking, and that design could be used to pulse twice a rotation with dual contacts... Once again though I'm unsure of how that would affect befm. Thanks for posting and welcome to the community!

Thank you for the warm welcome!! ;D   ....i  have another idea  ..ill post  a pic of it soon

Please try to post photos and if possible scope data of your replication efforts.
This thread is really for replication of Newman/Chuck2 design. If your idea shows results though please post as much info as you can as we will try to replicate your design if that is the case. In the mean time though I encourage you to read the whole thread and attempt to replicate the low consumption high resistance motor design.

Good luck,
~Dingus Mungus

Quote from: potatogunman on July 04, 2007, 10:19:11 PM
Hello  !!  Great stuff guys!! .... i am  planing on  building  a newman machine ,,as i seen on Youtube A guy called "chuck2" built one ...but i would like to know  some details  about the wiring .

On Youtube Chuck2 descibed  the wiring ..but i couldent  make  out  some of the details... I  Drew a Picture   witch ill post  below on what i could make out...
if it needs  any corrections , please feel  free to copy  my drawing an re-post it

thank you  soo soo much in advanced!  :John

Hi John,
the lower red coil is wrong polarized.
You just need to connect the output pins ofthe red coil exactly the other way around,
if both blue and red coil are wound the same direction.

the 2 coils must work as if it is just one coil. So they are just put in series.
But you have it drawn it in Bucking mode...

I still have to finish mounting the commutator brushes and rear bearing.

This will fire 20X per rotation.

Wow! I have no idea how that'll work, but color me impressed.
Can you post a video of it when its running? I can't tell where the points are.

The power enters from the top commutator."Top of pic" the brushes to the coil will be 180 degrees apart on ether side for the segmented "thoriated tungsten" main commutator. Its going to take alot of tuning. I need to cut back on some main power brush drag. So far preliminary tests very large arcing off both brushes. At average current of .030 amp.

Video hopefully this weekend. 8)

Looks and SOUNDS to be quite a replication.
Thanks for posting info and media. I'll be keeping an eye out for more.

Keep up the great work,
~Dingus Mungus

Looks very nice Maxc.
looking forward to a video from you.
Many thanks.

Preliminary video.

nice replication indeed

Maxc,
could you please post a longer video where one could also see the coil ?
It would be nice, if you explain things in the video via voiceover.
Many thanks.
Looks already quite nice !

i did a little more web sufing and found this type of design ,  is this a little like your replication's    heres nother scetch   below   

Hi potatogunman,
yes, you can do it also this way, but then just add a diode in front before the load
resistor, so that the red coil current only conducts, when the BackEMF spike
from the blue coil appears, otherwise you just have a normal transformer
integrated between your 2 coils and this gives reduced efficiency.

Also it is good to have a partial negative resistance load,
like a fluorescent bulb with a nonlinear load characteristic.

I added 4 diode's to the drawing..... would diode 2,3 & 4 be nessisarry or would
Diode 1 be enough?

I was thinking of using two   4" dia x 1" thick Neodymium magnets.
instead of using ceramic magnet  because the pulling force is much much greater!! ;D
my question is would a Neodymium magnet produce more output energy then a ceramic magnet?  .....would it spin faster? ;D    hehe

something I am sure is it will cost more :)

Hi all,
Just lost long post. >:(

Here's pic of new commutator.

Quote from: TheOne on July 06, 2007, 08:32:59 PM
something I am sure is it will cost more :)

somtimes we must pay to play ;D      hehe

Quote from: maxc on July 06, 2007, 09:34:07 PM
Hi all,
Just lost long post. >:(

Sorry to hear this !
Please use Firefox browser as it stores the input field text of the form,
so when you click forward or backwards buttons you willnot have lost the text.
Also a good idea is to first write a longer text in a text editor and
then copy and paste (STRG and C    and   STRG and V ) it into the input
posting text field.

Quote
Here's pic of new commutator.

Very nice, looking forward for a new video.
Many thanks.

Quote from: potatogunman on July 06, 2007, 12:06:44 PM
I added 4 diodes to the drawing..... would diode 2,3 & 4 be neccessarry or would
Diode 1 be enough?

Just only D1 is needed, no more diodes.

You might check then in the circuit the polarity of D1 ,
if you turn it around by 180 degrees, if it will work better then...

Please let us know.

Many thanks.

og right!!!  the diode is  backwards  hehe.... 
what would be  good to use as a load?   

Was meant to be up in London to see the Steorn Demo this weekend, but due to the demo being cancelled and a stinking cold I thought I would crack on with the new Center magnet and Axle.

I have lathed down a 6mm brass Rod to be the Axle and now used two 45mm *4mm thick Neo magnets.

Have milled out a custom holder that now allows the rod to go all the way through.

The balance is brilliant and with a little twist of the Axle she spins up very loose inside the 200 ohm coil.

Will now go wire her up and see what gives.

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overunity.org.uk%2FNewmiddle1.jpg&hash=470cf2ce3dccb91e23d34dbdc2b4554abb1c6c0e)

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overunity.org.uk%2FNewmiddle2.jpg&hash=60968991a7f678a1762ab91131e015adbe9d631d)

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overunity.org.uk%2FNewmiddle3.jpg&hash=3ce618c18ac97d0336b73043bffd1d667b5ab697)

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overunity.org.uk%2FNewmiddle4.jpg&hash=2819de12000b92415d01cd3897d9348d996300cb)

Cheers

Sean.

Well the new Middle Axle has made a BIG difference.

The Amp meter goes in 10ma increments and it is not even moving as shown in the Video attached.

The Volt meter started off showing 12.76 volts and after 10 minutes of running I decided to Video it as it was hovering between 12.78-12.79 Volts.

Just checked as I was posting and it is still hovering between this range.

Now gonna try work out how to use the amp meter on the Analogue Meter LOL

Now trying to find a 12V light bulb LOL

Cheers

Sean.

nice replication!

Hi Sean,
very well done.
Good video quality !
Please for a better recharge effect of the battery,
shortout the ampmeter , when you are done with measureing
and it might help to use thicker and shorter cables.

Your motor seems to run only on less than 5 milliAmps..
Maybe you have a better scale ampmeter, so we can really see the input power ?

Yes, try now to get a 1 to 3 Watts bulb and put it into series with the battery and shortout
the ampmeter.
Probably at this low input current you also have a very low RF output, so it maybe needs to go to
higher input voltages to see the bulb getting light up.
But it seems you have quite some nice torque already at the rotor axis, right ?


Many thanks.

Here?s a motor I put together in the last few days. I originally put in on a lead acid battery and the voltage didn?t change a bit. Then I stuck a 9V on it and it has been running for over 8 hours now. The voltage is down about a volt but not bad for a motor of this size.

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg265.imageshack.us%2Fimg265%2F6895%2Fnewman1yd3.jpg&hash=453e6e4b098b22cfd161b55673e9a89682c1e863)

I used almost 3000? of 20ga wire for the coil. I had a big old donut magnet kicking around so I used that for the rotor. The frame is from a cable spool and I used some 3/8? bearings and mounted them in two blocks of wood.
This motor is a kick! I?ve built about 5 Bedini motors but this one is so simple that it?s cool.

Here?s the magnet. It fits pretty snug but turns without any rubbing.

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg489.imageshack.us%2Fimg489%2F7082%2Fnewman2tc6.jpg&hash=0334a74ef77465dc23e69c6546c2ec7a72d0ca47)

I made a short video of it and posted it here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K7C4V6WXvkM

@Eddy Currentz
well done !

Now if you go substitute the microswitch
with some better commutator contact points, which
will spark more, then you would get a better recharge effect
into the battery.
Is this a rechargeable NiMh 9 Volt battery ?

You might also want to put 2 x 9 Volts or up to 10 x 9 Volts batteries in series
for higher speeds and use an additional 1 to 5 Watts incandescent
bulb in series to see, if you can light it up from the generated RF
power at the commutator.

Quote from: hartiberlin on July 07, 2007, 09:12:52 PM
@Eddy Currentz
well done !

Thanks. It's not the highest quality construction, I just cobbed it together at work with what I had.

QuoteNow if you go substitute the microswitch
with some better commutator contact points, which
will spark more, then you would get a better recharge effect
into the battery.
Is this a rechargeable NiMh 9 Volt battery ?

No, it's a regular alkaline battery. But I have seen today that the term "rechargeable" can certainly be applied to normally nonrechargeable batteries with this motor.
Commutators are a trade off. You can get great sparking with a couple of wires slapping a buss bar, but the copper oxide and carbon will quickly build up and ruin the effect without regular cleaning. A microswitch will last much longer and does produce some arcing across the contacts. It's hard to get good consistent arcing without degradation to the contacts. I have a carbon brush commutator that I used on another motor that I may try.

QuoteYou might also want to put 2 x 9 Volts or up to 10 x 9 Volts batteries in series
for higher speeds and use an additional 1 to 5 Watts incandescent
bulb in series to see, if you can light it up from the generated RF
power at the commutator.

Thanks, I will definitely try what you suggest here. First I want to rebuild the rotor since it has a lot of drag on it right now. I'm going to remount the magnet and straighten out the axels. I also want to mess around with the timing since I only took a couple of minutes to get this going this morning.
These motors are great fun.   ;D

Ted

Quote from: hartiberlin on July 07, 2007, 08:39:53 PM
shortout the ampmeter , when you are done with measureing
and it might help to use thicker and shorter cables.

Your motor seems to run only on less than 5 milliAmps..
Maybe you have a better scale ampmeter, so we can really see the input power ?

Yes, try now to get a 1 to 3 Watts bulb and put it into series with the battery and shortout
the ampmeter.
Probably at this low input current you also have a very low RF output, so it maybe needs to go to
higher input voltages to see the bulb getting light up.
But it seems you have quite some nice torque already at the rotor axis, right ?


Many thanks.

Well it has now been running for 15 hours with the Amp Meter in place and the voltage has drop to 12.76-12.77 over that time.
I have now stopped it and removed the Amp Meter and shortened the wires, so we will see :)

I placed my other Amp Meter on it that goes from 0-1ma but the needle was hitting the end scale hard LOL, so like you say maybe around the 5 ma mark

I will try the 39ohm coil later and see how she goes also with the new Axle.

One thing to Note is by using BRASS as the new Axle I have got hardly any carbon build up at all, it just seems to self clean and drop away, But the sparks are very small.

There is better torque on the Axle than before but still easy to stop it with not alot of pressure.

Will have a play and update later

Cheers

Sean.

Quote from: Eddy Currentz on July 07, 2007, 08:55:57 PM
Here?s a motor I put together in the last few days. I originally put in on a lead acid battery and the voltage didn?t change a bit. Then I stuck a 9V on it and it has been running for over 8 hours now. The voltage is down about a volt but not bad for a motor of this size.

Nice work Eddy

By straightning your Axle and balancing it a bit more will help loads.

Good Stuff

Regards

Sean.

Have now rigged up the 39ohm Coil wth the new Axle and it spins at around 1700 RPM and gives a nice spark.

While altering the tape I was pulling 100MA and the battery dropped to 12.69 Volts. After fine tuning it I got the current pull down to 30MA as shown on attached video. The voltage has now creeped upto 12.72 volts as shown on Video.

Have disconnected Amp Meter now and will leave it run for a while.

Gonna pop in the Car and see if I have a 12V spare bulb, but will probably be around 5 watts.

Cheers

Sean.

Sean, you can also use a lower voltage flaslight bulb, as you always have the coil as a pre-resistor in series.
You have to use such a Wattage bulb, that it will not light up yet, when the rotor is standing still and makes contact.

Quote from: CLaNZeR on July 08, 2007, 05:37:36 AM

Nice work Eddy

By straightning your Axle and balancing it a bit more will help loads.

Good Stuff

Regards

Sean.

Thanks Sean! I watched your video and was impressed by the speed you are getting. Obviously, careful and meticulous workmanship has paid off. Very nice work.

Ted

Below 

Quote from: CLaNZeR on July 07, 2007, 02:07:37 PM
Was meant to be up in London to see the Steorn Demo this weekend, but due to the demo being cancelled and a stinking cold I thought I would crack on with the new Center magnet and Axle.

I have lathed down a 6mm brass Rod to be the Axle and now used two 45mm *4mm thick Neo magnets.

Have milled out a custom holder that now allows the rod to go all the way through.

The balance is brilliant and with a little twist of the Axle she spins up very loose inside the 200 ohm coil.

Will now go wire her up and see what gives.

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overunity.org.uk%2FNewmiddle1.jpg&hash=470cf2ce3dccb91e23d34dbdc2b4554abb1c6c0e)

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overunity.org.uk%2FNewmiddle2.jpg&hash=60968991a7f678a1762ab91131e015adbe9d631d)

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overunity.org.uk%2FNewmiddle3.jpg&hash=3ce618c18ac97d0336b73043bffd1d667b5ab697)

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overunity.org.uk%2FNewmiddle4.jpg&hash=2819de12000b92415d01cd3897d9348d996300cb)

Cheers

Sean.

Incredible !!   I like the magnet holder idea!!  very nice!!     I've noticed you used a pair of Neo megnets rather then the normal cerramic magnets....do you think that could contribute to its  really fast rotation?     I am  also considering on use neo magnets on my first newman project.   

I never thought that brass was conductive ...i learn new things everyday   ;D

Thought this might be of interest.

I put both coils on the same shaft and joined them in Parallel.

12.67 volts constant for over 2 hours so far no increase, no drop.

39ohm coil on the left 200ohm coil on the right.

Video attached.

Sean,
great setup,

would be interesting to see,
how much current it will draw now and if you put the
2 coils in series ?
Will it have the same torque as if you put the 2 coils in series ?

Also another ideo would be to pulse one coil as the motor
and the second as a generator and try to run buth from a charged
capacitor.
For better charging via BackEMF the generator coil must be also pulsed
via a commutator to a graetz bridge and then to the cap.
Then the cap charge goes again via a commutator to the motor coil.

Maybe you get it this way to selfrun.
The generator coil should have more windings than
the motor coil.

Regards, Stefan.

Hi all,

I spent the whole day trying to center the new commutator on the shaft but failed. I'll get it done tomorrow.
  The other commutator had to much run out and the segments were not evenly spaced.
But even with it off. At one time when i was adjusting it the battery voltage went up .2 in 5 minutes.
I have more wire about 120 ohms to rap on it.  I have at least 10 days of work left on it.

Hi all,

I'm still working on the large commutator.

Here's an idea I put together today. It would be a secondary commutator being over-driven off the main shaft. Hmm gears or rubberbands?

Hi again, yes its been a while and sadly i have not started my motor yet but the spark is very much alive within me, i live in a small town and the local steel fabrication place  where i ordered my magnets are still waiting on them and i am actually getting a bit frustrated about it.

The bright side of things is that i havnt rushed into anything yet i have sat back and seen some of the new designs you have all come up with, i am thinking strongly about building something very simler to eddy currentz newman machine, have talked to my supervisor at work about getting some of the other materials cheaper thru the company i work for, the thing is i would like to know what 20 ga is in millimeters?

I am very excited about this, the place i work at is the 5th biggest facility of its kind in the world and the biggest in the southern hemisphere if i can demonstarte a device that is more than a 100% efficient to the company im sure they will be just as excited , 
i dont want to say where i work at this stage but i will say we have the latest technology in our feild and if i can demonstarte and get the companys interest then im sure they will utilise the team of engineers, electricians etc and other enthusists like my self within the company to work together to scale things up as im sure they could use this technology for many practical purposes in the company, no the company has nothing to do with the sale of energy but sure as hell uses a great deal of it.

So thats my question today what is 20 ga in millimeters, im not rushing in yet like i said i dont even have my materials yet and im always taking the time to research, the head electrician at work is bringing me all of his tafe (collage) text books tomorrow which is suposed to have great deal of info he feels will be most useful to me about electric motors and the nature of electricity.

Ill catch you all soon and remember the more minds work together the sooner we will all get there and the sooner we get there the sooner we can stick it to all the rich pigs that hold knowledge from us for there own profit.

Hi,

See this link http://www.mogami.com/e/cad/wire-gauge.html

Insert 20 for size, choose AWG for unit, choose solid for construction and press compute.

Here is in table format: http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

Regards
Gyula

the chart seems to say 0.8128 mm

Hi all,

Lost post, new coil

Quote from: maxc on August 06, 2007, 10:47:26 PM
Hi all,

Lost post, new coil

3000 feet done, 1000feet to go. About 2-3 hours, with tape between each layer :P

w00t w00t!!! Thats quite the coil Max!
I'm going to look back through the thread for a pic of your mags...
What kinda pull strength and clearence do you have?
I'm uber excited to see it turning! I'm working on a new replica too...
Nothing to show yet, but I'll put pics up when I get it all put together.

Great build!
~Dingus Mungus

Hi all,

I'm still working shimming the neo's closer to the coil.
It's amazing on how much better it works as a generator the closer they are.
I'm on vacation till sunday. Still have 10 or more hours of work setting up the commutator. It will fire 10 to 60X per rotation. THAT'S THE KEY TO MAKE IT WORK.

Quote from: maxc on August 09, 2007, 07:10:56 PM
Hi all,

I'm still working shimming the neo's closer to the coil.
It's amazing on how much better it works as a generator the closer they are.
I'm on vacation till sunday. Still have 10 or more hours of work setting up the commutator. It will fire 10 to 60X per rotation. THAT'S THE KEY TO MAKE IT WORK.

10-60hz are just arbitrary numbers...
Think resonance... Think standing waves...
Test with a funcgen and scope to see it.
My plan is not to have multible on/off contacts,
but to have that built in to the driving circuit.
Looking really good! You're definitely on the right track.

~Dingus Mungus

I 've been also thinking about a mechanical/electrical hybird commutator with spark back feedback.

The irony is soon we'll both be working on something new... ;D

I was talking to Joe Nolfe the other day and word is Newman has closed the loop to the affect of steady acceleration from a short one time input of hand turning the rotor. No batteries no solar cells... A new video should be out by Monday. I'm just hoping the custom armature I'm working on will work in the closed loop design. LOL! Now lets both hope that Newman is ready to open source the whole thing. Since his device has been supressed over the last 20 years, it must be clear to him by now that open source is the right tactic to take now. He'll make a ton in the book and speaking engagement circuit, and a dozen manufactures would be willing to hire him to advise on production.

~Dingus Mungus

Ok now from what i understand the negative connects to the coil and the positive to the axle so the flow of electrons flows from the negative terminal of the battery through the coil and through the axle to the positive terminal of the battery correct?

Now what i want to know is the extra electricity that is supposed to recharge the battery does it follow the same direction ? or does the rotating magnet force (negatively charged) electrons back down the to the negative terminal the place in which the negative charges are coming from, is that what this back current is?

From what i understand you can change the direction of the spin of the magnet without changing the current flow in the coil but by changing the firing postition of the magnet itself is this correct? if so the spin of the magnet can make electrons flow with or against those that are already flowing through the coil from the negative terminal to the positive terminal of the battery.

Please shed some light people, oh by the way im not being critical in any way but has anyone been able to get there newman machine to work yet? when i say work i mean able to charge a battery.

Hi guys!

My first 'Newman-Type' motor.

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffreenrg.info%2FNewman_Type_Machine_Rep%2FMyNm1_small.jpg&hash=b5ce0ad04ff5cbffd35323aba8a604bd8a92a240)

I had:
Some 'garbage chute' of 0.5m/m (=/= #25) copper wire.
Two  'parallelepiped' ferrite magnets.
Two bearings and some other stuff.
The resistance of the coil is about 18 ohms (I ran out of wire :))).

For the moment, I made it run with my 2 hands.
My left hand connects one wire to the commmutor and the other hand connects another wire to the shaft.

(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffreenrg.info%2FNewman_Type_Machine_Rep%2FNm.GIF&hash=27914afeaf08848d2647d759035d6630e3562f51)

It draws about 50 milli (from 20 to 100 according to my 'hand tuning').
The digital volt meter connected to the 12 vols bat. panics (it sometimes
shows 200 vols (or more)).

Does it re-charge the bat?
I don't known!


More pictures at: http://freenrg.info/Newman_Type_Machine_Rep/ (http://freenrg.info/Newman_Type_Machine_Rep/)

When I get a camera I make a footage.

Best

This is my attempt at a Newman motor. The coil is 36 ohms and the rheostat is set to 18 Volts (increase the voltage and the speed increases), however I measured 120mA (meter error?).  I tried two 9 volt batteries in series with no success. It is made from 100mm PVC pipe, the bearing journals are 25mm electrical conduit, 6mm SS shaft, 25mm pvc couplings to hold the neo (30mm x 5mm neo). I have several coils, however when I tried to use one to drive a 12 volt bulb (measured 12 volts AC with meter before connecting) it loaded the motor and slowed almost to a stop (changed the flux within the coils??). I will try a 12 volt car battery, I don't believe recoverying the back emf will charge a battery (might need a diode and capacitors). I have thought of changing the coil configuration to suit the magnets to see if it will motor/generate, any suggestions are welcome. ???

@Starlite

Thanks for sharing. Nice motor.

May I stress that in a 'real' Newman Motor the length of the wire is very huge and the commutator is very elaborated.
According to:
http://www.padrak.com/ine/NEWMAN5.html (http://www.padrak.com/ine/NEWMAN5.html) (COMMUTATORS FOR NEWMAN MOTORS- AN OVERVIEW)

Quote".....the commutator has the job of interrupting the current flow in this single coil many times per revolution of the armature. In addition, the commutator must reverse  the polarity of the applied voltage twice during each revolution of the armature."

If you read the Newman patent you will realize  that this reversing polarity is important. 

J. Newman is also saying in his patent, about his 2 coils motor:

QuoteThe [second] coil can be taken ouut of the system, or its electrical currend fed away from the system, and the rotational speed of the magnet will not observably change. However, the rotational speed of the magnet will noticebly change [accelerate] when the electric current from [the second] coil is feed back to [the main] coil.

The newman patent is attached (PatD19).

Best

Thanks NerzhDishual,

It is basically what I have made, I have made a basic commutator and it works fine without me holding the wire. From the patent as a guess I might try a bifilar coil instead of overlaying the coils which I cannot get to work when loaded. I have not tried the battery, however I have managed to measure the current and as I suspected it is close to 1/2 an amp max, I also measured the voltage across the commutator which was around 12 volts max (nothing astounding). This is still very good as it is only pulses once per rotation. I will try to measure the speed versus voltage. Let me know if you can provide further insight.

Hi Starlite,

I have taken the time to build a simple commutator and, now,  I do not use my hands anymore for that :).
You said you drawn 1/2 amps max. Sounds too much to me. ???
With a mere 18 homs coil and a 12 volt bat I do not draw more than 60 milli amps
(according to an old (Soviet) digital   analog [edited] amp meter 'ranged' between 0 and 60 mili amp).

Now I'm buiding a more  elaborated 'Newman-Type' motor with much more turns, and
bigger magnets. To me it is not yet a genuine Newman machine.
The millboard-whisky-can one was just for the fun...

When I get my camera, I make a footage.
So, more to come soon.

Best

I've just finished rewinding the coil on my replicated newman motor, it now has 2490 turns of wire measuring a total of 150 ohms, I've got a couple of flagging lead acid gel batteries which I will connect it to and leave over night, will take voltage measurements before and after obviously.

btw, the wire was removed from the secondary coil of a microwave power transformer.

Here's my new commutator. It needs alot more work.

Hi I am new here, this is my first post and sorry for bad English :p.

I have One question:
When I take my device under current the magnet will turn for 180? degrees, because then the magnet is there where it wants to be (North to South, South to North...). But how it will beginn rotating? Do I have to pulse the current so that the magnet will use the kick to rotate for over 360?, I tried it but it did not work (too weak magnet?). Or do I have to use a commutator?

I use 2 kg wire of 0,4 cm thickness.

Hope you can understand and help me.

Hi Zornig,

Welcome to the club!

2Kg of 0.4 cm thickness wire ?
2 kg sounds very serious but about #6 AWG (American Wire Gauge) sounds huge!
Or: do you mean 0.4 millimeter (#26 AWG?)
You could see: http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm (http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm)

I used #24/25 AWG wire (0.5 millimeter). This Newman-like motor should work (= rotate) at the first try with direct current and a very simple commutator like this:


(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffreenrg.info%2FNewman_Type_Machine_Rep%2FVery_Simple_Commutator.GIF&hash=a503c72e16a29d0200baf0402a7ba9d2e2a3e446) 

Could you post a picture of your device?

BTW: I now have one small digital movie camera (Sanyo Xacti C6).
But I have not taken the time to use it! So more to come (as) soon (as my laziness could make it) possible...

Best

Here is what I have tried, is this like yours? In my attempt to replicate this machine I think I did not have enough winding and I was running down the battery fairly quick. I think I only have about 60 turns. I wraped another 60 windings around the first on and left it by itself while ther motor was runing and when I measured thoses windings it gave me AC Voltage. is this the way you guys are trying to replicate the newmans machine? I propably need a lot more windings for the amp drawl to come down is my guess.

Hey everyone..

New to the forum here, I have posted a couple of times in another thread but thought I would bring it over here since this thread is more about the setups.

I have been running a crude version of a Newman Motor I made for a few days now with some interesting results!
Right now I'm just using it to try out some different configurations. In it's current state, I now have a small generator built on the side of the motor to try and take advantage of the unused mechanical power thats going to waste.
I simply made 4 coils of 200 turns of 24 gauge magnet wire mounted on a cd (stationary) and another cd with 4 neo magnets aranged N/S/N/S and secured this to the axle of the newman motor. It's in no way balanced properly, but actually puts out a couple of volts, yet to check after rectification though.. Im sure I could come up with a better design though on this one  ;)
When the newman motor is running, there is now one input source and two output sources.
Thanks to an idea from Stefan, I have made a full wave rectifier circuit to the output of the main newman motor coil. I also put a diode inline with the 9v battery + terminal to stop any back spikes from getting back to my little 9v. I also put a small cap after the rectifier to smooth it all out, seems to be very strong now, and I'm  measuring a 12.5V DC Output (not including output of the generator, I will try and throw this into the mix to increase output voltage). The machine still runs for a very long time, even though the design is bad.

I find this stuff really interesting and I'm gathering the parts to make a bigger version.. I will be sure to check back here often for some tips, you guys seem to be a wealth of knowledge!
Thanks for sharing..


Here are a few links to my vids I just poted up on Youtube. The last vid shows the generator lighting an LED.. No vid of the rectifier hooked up with a meter but I will be sure to post it up when I make it.. next goal.. recharge a battery!

Vid one: 3.75v input from 4 older AA batteries, ran for over 7 hours.. then fell asleep lol:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQvr3AJXESQ

Vid two: 6.35V input from an old 9V battery, I tried hooking up a small 6v rechargeable but realized batteries don't like AC- didn't do anything

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YN9qHUcNZhI

Vid three: 9v input powering the motor and a homemade Audio CD generator powering an LED  :). In this vid I also upgraded from the "sticky tape commutator" to a copper contact

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tx0rCLUe1lg

Hi i have my two earth magnets 35x5 mm each and three spoils of enammaled copper wire (0.63mm) 100g each spoil, i am gunna start with trying just the two to begin with as my machine will be small, i may get more wire if i need to.

Question do i need to scape the enamalle off the ends of the wire before i solder them? will it be easy to make sure its scraped off properly by the colour of  the end of the wire?

Stefan im not sure what my axel will be yet, can you please list in order what is the first material you would use for the best conductivity right down to the last material you would use? and also materials people mite use that you would just never ever use.

Hi Seekingknowledge,

Welcome aboard.

If you do not remove the enamel of your wires ends you just will not be able to solder them! Yes, the color is a good 'insight'.

Best

Thank you for the useful information!

But I don't understand this commutator: http://freenrg.info/Newman_Type_Machine_Rep/Very_Simple_Commutator.GIF 
I mean the job of the commutator is to reverse the polarity of the current what reverses the magnetic poles. But this commutator doesn't do this in my sense. For me it just let the current flow for a short time to always the same direction. Please help me to erase my error in reasoning. :)

Quote from: Zornig on November 17, 2007, 01:40:38 PM
Thank you for the useful information!

But I don't understand this commutator: http://freenrg.info/Newman_Type_Machine_Rep/Very_Simple_Commutator.GIF 
I mean the job of the commutator is to reverse the polarity of the current what reverses the magnetic poles. But this commutator doesn't do this in my sense. For me it just let the current flow for a short time to always the same direction. Please help me to erase my error in reasoning. :)

Ok im with you Zornig , if you people google the words back emf you will find several sites to do with a light globe experiment in which the light globe is linked in parralelle with a copper coil and the coil linked to a battery when the battery is connected the globe shines very dim when the circuit is open the globe flashes even brighter than what it dose when the battery is connected.

There are several pages like the one i just described some the globe shines brighter constantly because the current is being pulsed and only having the same battery drain as what it dose when it is only shineing very dim, if constant pulsing can make a light globe shine brighter cos of the copper windings then surely the newman machine (or any replica) can make its rotor turn faster by pulsing the current to its copper windings.

Also not having a light globe in the picture i guess people should be getting the recharging effect to your battery, also we would have emf telling the rotor to go one way and back emf telling it to go the other, which way would it then go? well my instinct makes me theory it should spin the way back emf is telling it to since it is supposed to be stronger, which in short would mean that the rotor would turn in the opposite direction than what the battery is telling it to, who here is with me? .

Zornig the way i view it is that the commutator most people on this thread seem to be going for isnt worth a pinch of shit other than to make it work like a normal motor, it has this area in which the circuit closes and then we get this little back emf on the end of it i mean come on, the duration of contact should me much shorter to take as less from the battery as possible we only need enuf contact to make a magnetic feild so we can collapse it again to make back emf which is what makes this thing different from normal motors.

Lets say for example that using the commutator in the link  made contact for 4 second per revoulution (its way less but im trying to make a point) we are draining power for 4 second then we produce one back emf per revolution well wouldnt it be better to have the same contact area divided into 4 so that per revolution we are still closing the circuit for same duration per revolution but producing 4 back emf istead of the one?  but we would have the contact area divided over many more places on the commutator so we put the same energy in per revolution but we atre getting heaps more back emf.

Im not an expert by anymeans but the commutator most here seem to be using dosnt work in my common sense the commutator i have in mind will be a plywood disc with the same area exposed but it is divided into many conntact points, im slowly getting there i have only one hand at the moment really.

Who agrees?

OK, now I understand. There is a back emf that reverses the polarity. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_rvJQb2SDY
But now I don't understand is how a back emf can be while the circuit is open. Current just flows in circuits, doesn't it?

I checked up and found out that I use #12 wire instead of #6 :p. Here are two pictures of my device (hope it will work one day, I mean that it rotates at least ;) ).

Zornig you can use insulated wire if you have nothing else but if you have the money i would go for enamalled copper wire instead, the insulation takes alot more room.

Bye the way people you can see those light globe experiments on youtube they are pretty easy to find if you type in BACK EMF , i would post a link but i addmitte i got no idea how.

Has anyone thought of linking there newman machine up to another copper coil with an iron core to produce bigger BACK EMF ?

User MEM had supplied us with a thread about EMF.
His view of the EMF Funktion is well explained.

helmut

@Zornig

Sorry for responding late; I was busy and took an overunity.dot.com break :)).

Yes, you are absolutely right. This is not a 'real' Newman commutator but a simple 'switch'. My machine is also not a 'real' Newman machine but is just NM-like...
It was just a (quick made) first try...
But to have a very simple device that run could be a good motivation for further improvements. Could it not be?
I do not claim any overunity (for the moment?).

I plan to build a more serious device with more turns and a genuine commutator that reverse the polarity.

Best

I know what the secret is to correctly replicating the Newman machine.  You have to stand beside it, talk like a Jesus freak, and point at the spinning wheel while you talk.  Also, it helps if every once in a while, you ask your paid lackey if what you are saying is correct.  Just keep doing this over and over and publish videos until you become known as the "Jesus freak with the spinny wheel."  Oh, and ask for money.

Quote from: utilitarian on November 23, 2007, 04:45:26 PM
I know what the secret is to correctly replicating the Newman machine.  You have to stand beside it, talk like a Jesus freak, and point at the spinning wheel while you talk.  Also, it helps if every once in a while, you ask your paid lackey if what you are saying is correct.  Just keep doing this over and over and publish videos until you become known as the "Jesus freak with the spinny wheel."  Oh, and ask for money.

Damm, that's where I been going wrong. Will try that tomorrow and let ya know if it works  ;D

My dear Utilitarian

IMHO, your remarks are clumsy, gawky, very heavy and no serviceable/useful at all.

T'es relou l'blaireau!

Hey doing reasearch on how to build a simple electromagnet i learnt that you have your windings around your peace of iron (eg a nail) going in one direction and that makes the magnetic feild, if you have the windings going one way then back the other way then the two magnetic feilds  council each other out and your electromagnet wont work or wont work aswell,  how are you suppose to do the windings on the newman machine? 

Quote from: NerzhDishual on November 23, 2007, 03:22:43 PM

I plan to build a more serious device with more turns and a genuine commutator that reverse the polarity.

So NerzhDishual do you agree with what i say about having many contact points to harness back emf? i think some of the others earlier in this thread were taking that direction, it makes sence from what ive come to understand.

Quote from: seekingknowledge on November 24, 2007, 04:37:04 AM
Hey doing reasearch on how to build a simple electromagnet i learnt that you have your windings around your peace of iron (eg a nail) going in one direction and that makes the magnetic feild, if you have the windings going one way then back the other way then the two magnetic feilds  council each other out and your electromagnet wont work or wont work aswell,  how are you suppose to do the windings on the newman machine? 

We know for a fact that Joseph Newman got the inspiration for his machine from Jesus himself.  So I suggest you pray, and then all things will become clear.

Quote from: utilitarian on November 24, 2007, 08:55:58 PM

Quote from: seekingknowledge on November 24, 2007, 04:37:04 AM
Hey doing reasearch on how to build a simple electromagnet i learnt that you have your windings around your peace of iron (eg a nail) going in one direction and that makes the magnetic feild, if you have the windings going one way then back the other way then the two magnetic feilds  council each other out and your electromagnet wont work or wont work aswell,  how are you suppose to do the windings on the newman machine? 

We know for a fact that Joseph Newman got the inspiration for his machine from Jesus himself.  So I suggest you pray, and then all things will become clear.

That is just not at all helpful, i know newman bullshits about god and his demonstrations are very poor but your comments dont belong on this thread, this is the newman machine replica thread for people sharing knowledge on how to replicate, take it to another thread.

So do i start from the top and wind downwards once or do i wind down then backup and down and so on? or do i just do one direction like a normal electromagnet?

Only one direction like a normal electromagnet, because you need a magnetic field that works at right angle to the permanent magnet, which causes then a torque. If you don't know how this works and if you don't have any experiences, then you could watch this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qlw3C84a5zM
and reproduce it. I did it and it helped me a lot.

I found after making my machine that it could be heard through the baby monitor in my front room, so i decided to see how much energy escaped the machine, i built a card board box around the machine and lined both inside and out with aluminium foil, i can hold a LED with either leg in one hand whilst touching the oposing leg on to the foil then watched as the LED flashed in time with the RF burst from the comutator, so feeding this otherwise wasted energy back into the system should further improve the machines eficiency.

my comutator is also split in to around 6 firing sections to further build and collapse the magnetic field per revolution, this also seemed top help with the efficency.

i can now run my machine for 24 hours without load and it drops only  0.01 volt so its pretty eficient.

i still have a couple of ways to still further improve the machines efficency and il keep you posted with the results.

chad.

here is a nice commutator idea

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ur--xQcquNY

Hi to all those that have made replications, i have several coils made of different wire thickness to experiment with , i have my bearing but have been told that they may not work so well in wood but ive notice several of you have the bearings mounted inside wood in the replications, well to those i ask did they last? did you use a special glue? , to anyone else i ask is there some other easy to get material that 
is easy to carve a hole in to put the bearings in or should i just go for it with the wood.

Im very excited i have one specific idea that im busting to try out and once i can i will and will share my findings to all.

Well i built my newman machine but i didnt use the bearings the desighn changed cos the i would of had to had to have an axle 8mm in diameter and then things would of been out of scale as my two disk magnets are only about 35mm by about 5mm each so i just used a nail as my axle and blue tact to space them and sat my coil in the bottom part of a cardboard box ( a taco box to be exact lol) and used the nail to put two holes in either side and the axle rests inside them so i didnt need bearings.

Already had a couple of interesting results and we are just getting started, well first of all the coil i have been running it with ( i dont have a top coil yet ionly used one coil under the magnet on mine a bit like kmarinas86 and the new machine by chuck2na but a very round coil) was made from 1 100g spool of 0.8mm enamelled copper wire, last nite about 11 pm i got it to work and played round with it for a bit , the motor changes speed when you play round with the contact point as alot of you may already be aware, i took reading of the running battery (9 volt) after about an hour and it had droped from around 8.15 volts to about 7.05 volts the at about 1:30 i got it going again just before i went to bed as i stoped to play round with it abit.

Then this morning when i got up it had stoped, i started it again about twice for 15 minutes at a time so i figured it was the something wrong with the brush point so played around and couldnt get it to work so i put the other nine volt battery on it and it took off so i knew that i had ran the other battery down so i took a volt reading and it was something like 6.5 volts ( i apologise for the in acuracy of my mesurments as i wasnt writing things down but will set up to record all results very soon) then i stoped it and i went out then this afternoon i got back and twice i took reading off my dead battery, and it was like just over 7 volts then about 30 mins ago it was up to like 8 volts , that was just before i started typing this post right now as i have my machine on the desk infront of me and and i thought fuck is this
reading an illusion so i put it back on the machine and ran it for about 15 minutes while i was typing this letter, and in the last 10 or 15 mins i have been able to get it to run about 5 times for about 30 seconds or a minute.

So i wonder what the reading will be on it now , its right infront of me lets see,  and it is exactly 7 volts , but a minute later its gone up to 7.03 volts i shit you not and all in about 2 minutes , has anyone else had this before aswell?

well before i continue i will now take a break then come back and take ( accurate) mesurement and see where its at then we will maybe even reconnect it to the machine, ill give it about half an hour then i will continue typing, before i go outside for a smoke i would just like to briefly raise the subject of the newman machine running off volts not current because last nite i ran the motor for around 30 seconds off the two 9 volt transistor batteries and produced alot of speed but not nearly as much as the speed it produced when ran off the 6volt dolphine torch to which i have had for ages and used in the torch for a while, it was still working in  the torch but it only had between 4 aned 5 volts so the voltage was much less then the two transistor batteries so could some one enlighten me there, its been about 10 minutes
now since the last reading so ill be back shortly and we will all together find out more.

Remember you cant spell overunity without unity that why we must work with each other.

hi im back sorry i took longer than i expected its been about between an hour and a half to two hours since i last ran my newman machine for a about 15 minutes, now i will check my battery it was just over 7 volts last, and it is       7.29 volts

and now we will see if it runs my machine and if it does i will time it accuratly how long it runs for again and will post again as soon as it stops running, and the moment of truth,    and yes it does will post again shortly.

LOL  4 minutes, i started it again at 5:47 pm and stoped at 5:51 pm, then i just started it again for around 20 seconds and it isnt the contact points because i just tested it with the other battery and it works fine very interesting i think, sorry i have no videos to put up on youtube, and my little experiment hardly sounds convential i know but im just playing with what i have for now, im off to get a pizza then i will be back to play more.

ok several hours has past since my last post and i have tried a couple of other things i tried one theory that i had for a while and even tho i will try it again one day with a recharchable battery i can now put that theory down to dust lol, i brought a couple of weeks ago pack of capacitors with about 50 caps in it, it only costed about 10 dollars from leading edge electronics, the caps are different sizes, volts and uF, i would like to know what uF means? the one i have on there now is a 25v 470uF and it is hooked up as shown by chuck2na in
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HhJqjMUEb0&feature=related

Yes it is that simple, i hooked it up as shown but i left disconnected the part where the capicitor is supposed to connect before the switch, then i started it then when i made that final connection it picked up a whole heap of speed, go on try it its a blow out.

I will let it go now for about an hour, then mite try a different capacitor and becuase i have several sizes and voltages and uF ( whatever that last one means lol) i can experiment by linking some together in series or parralle to make a capacitor bank for what we require , it certainly went faster dont know about any recharging effect tho , becuase i didnt start it to long ago and it has just stoped lol, so maybe i need to play around with the capcitors.

But first i will simply try a new battery cos that one i was playing around with last nite its the last of the two that i was using today as i have stated in my last few previous posts, and just now i spun the motor again and it has taken off again, maybe its just the same thing as before (when my other battery ran down and i would start it agin) but the effect is enhanced cos the capacior.

The two batteries i have been using are general purpose eveready batteries and the batteries i brought from the shop today are eveready super heavy dutie, my motor stoped again one minute ago, i wonder if i give it a little nudge it will go again?

And yes it did , this is too cool i cant beleive none of you have reported this yet, considering the battery has been used quiet a bit today its performance since connecting the capacitor is quiet impresive, this is a strange machine, before i go to bed i will put a fresh battery on it, tomorrow i will try to wind another coil if i can it will be made from a spool of 100g of 0.5 mm enammelled copper wire the wire here is 0.8 so it should have almost twice as many windings as this one.

Well i put the new battery on for about 5 seconds lol , as i said i have no bearings so with the new battery
+ the cap the axle moves to much so unfortunatly wont be using the new battery until i have bearings which may even mean having to scale up a little, so ive just been playing around with the other dead batteries ,now here is the thing if i leave it go a little while i can runn it with great speed for  but if i disconnect the capacitor it does nothing, if i disconnect the battery and leave the capacitor and spin it it does nothing but having them both hooked up it runs for several minutes at a time if i leave it a while and 20 to 30 seconds if only give it a rest for a minute or so, whats very strange is ( out of the two dead 9volt batteries) the only one it works with is the one that i was using when i first hooked up the cap it wont go with the other and if it does it almost does nothing.

but the other one just a little spin goes for a minute so if i had a pick up coil on top we could power a led for atleast on minute at a time on a dead battery. 

Playing around i have noticed a few things , im begining to understand more why we need a spark gap, let me give an example the closer you have the contact points the faster it goes the further away the slower it goes, now if you disconnect the capacitor and move the contact point away just enuf that it still connects to the battery but dosnt have enuf thrust to make it all the way around ( even if you spin it with your hand) it will start spining once you reconnect the capacitor and with good (not mega) speed too.

Now if i then disconnect the capacitor it will stop , so if the battery alone isnt enuf to make it spin then the power cant be comming from the battery it must be the back emf captured in the capacitor, and discovered that by accident cos my brush would get pushed out of place.

Also ive noticed that if i have the points closer and that motor running with alot of speed with the battery alone then the capacitor dosnt make as much of a difference as it does in the lower rpm range , so it must be more efficient in the lower rpm range, ive had some other things to do today so i havnt got around to winding the other coil and im going drinking soon so it mite get put off till the morning.

Once i have more stable points, bearings and a top coil ( we know i need small wire for that one definatly)  the we shall have a truely working real energy machine.

Quote from: seekingknowledge on April 19, 2008, 12:01:59 AM
Playing around i have noticed a few things , im begining to understand more why we need a spark gap, let me give an example the closer you have the contact points the faster it goes the further away the slower it goes, now if you disconnect the capacitor and move the contact point away just enuf that it still connects to the battery but dosnt have enuf thrust to make it all the way around ( even if you spin it with your hand) it will start spining once you reconnect the capacitor and with good (not mega) speed too.

Now if i then disconnect the capacitor it will stop , so if the battery alone isnt enuf to make it spin then the power cant be comming from the battery it must be the back emf captured in the capacitor, and discovered that by accident cos my brush would get pushed out of place.

Also ive noticed that if i have the points closer and that motor running with alot of speed with the battery alone then the capacitor dosnt make as much of a difference as it does in the lower rpm range , so it must be more efficient in the lower rpm range, ive had some other things to do today so i havnt got around to winding the other coil and im going drinking soon so it mite get put off till the morning.

Once i have more stable points, bearings and a top coil ( we know i need small wire for that one definatly)  the we shall have a truely working real energy machine.

What happened to this topic? Why no-one post results? All go avay? How about your motor Cleranzer? This was topic I did follow long time, now no-one post here. Why?

Quote from: Zornig on November 18, 2007, 09:02:55 AM
OK, now I understand. There is a back emf that reverses the polarity. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_rvJQb2SDY
But now I don't understand is how a back emf can be while the circuit is open.

Well it is just enough to open the circuit.
Then a spark will jump from the just opened contacts
and this spark is just putting an radio frequency back current spike into the battery.

So you don?t need to reverse the current in the commutator, if you just build a simple
switch -type ommutator.

The spark is doing it all alone.

Surely if you want to have more mechanical output power,
if is helpful, if you reverse the current  inside the coil after 180 degrees
rotation of the magnet.

But if you only energize the coil for around 45 degrees, once per rotation,
when the magnet is aligned inside the coil,
also a single switch type commutator is okay.
It should be best made of copper and graphite
as this gives the graphite oxidation free electron effect into the circuit.

Hi all,

What is the best way for build 2hp newman motor ?

The magnet wire size and how long ?

The best magnet ?

Quote from: Careica on July 19, 2008, 07:56:25 AM
What happened to this topic? Why no-one post results? All go avay? How about your motor Cleranzer? This was topic I did follow long time, now no-one post here. Why?

All of mine killed the battery after a few days, but this was probably down to the commutator not being the correct material.
I still have it out in the shed somewhere and will probably mess around with it again oneday.

So many thing to play with and not enough time as usual!

Cheers

Sean.

Quote from: CLaNZeR on July 28, 2008, 01:09:30 PM
All of mine killed the battery after a few days, but this was probably down to the commutator not being the correct material.
I still have it out in the shed somewhere and will probably mess around with it again oneday.

So many thing to play with and not enough time as usual!

Cheers

Sean.

Yes, I see you have many projects  ;)

On what project are you working right now?

I think you should realy try again your Newman motor recharge your batteries, but use like Stefan say cooper commutator and graphite brushes.

Good luck whit your projects.

Reg. Michael (Careica)

Okay dragged out one of the coils and manged to get some brushes out of a old 240V motor to try.

Much better sparks now :) .

Here is a video to show.

http://www.overunity.org.uk/newman/CLaNZeRSNewmanReplication7.wmv

I messed around for ages with tape on the axle trying to get the timing right then had a brain wave about bending the axle a little so as it rotates it touches the brush and fires.

Interesting thing was the Battery was 12.08 Volts when I started and I have left it running for the last 15 minutes and the battery reads 12:09 volts. I have seen this before but it has ended going down more than up, so will leave it running and check again later.

I also have some flat AA batteries here and will tape them together later and see if they charge or degrade even more.

Cheers

Sean.

Quote from: Careica on July 29, 2008, 03:08:05 AM
I think you should realy try again your Newman motor recharge your batteries, but use like Stefan say cooper commutator and graphite brushes.

Good luck whit your projects.

Reg. Michael (Careica)

Hi Michael

I do not have copper rods, only brass. But see the post above now trying some graphite brushes.

Cheers

Sean.

Quote from: CLaNZeR on July 30, 2008, 01:58:49 PM
Okay dragged out one of the coils and manged to get some brushes out of a old 240V motor to try.

Much better sparks now :) .

Here is a video to show.

http://www.overunity.org.uk/newman/CLaNZeRSNewmanReplication7.wmv

I messed around for ages with tape on the axle trying to get the timing right then had a brain wave about bending the axle a little so as it rotates it touches the brush and fires.

Interesting thing was the Battery was 12.08 Volts when I started and I have left it running for the last 15 minutes and the battery reads 12:09 volts. I have seen this before but it has ended going down more than up, so will leave it running and check again later.

I also have some flat AA batteries here and will tape them together later and see if they charge or degrade even more.

Cheers

Sean.

Yeah! Good news! Back in business!

AA-batteries will maybe don't work. They can't catch all of those hight volts and hight negative back-spices. But it could be worth of try.

Hi Sean,
well done,
but your coil is much too small.

How many Kg wire do you have ?

You need at least 10 times as much
and thus several times bigger wire diameter to have
about the same ohmical resistance as you now have.

That will give you also 10 times higher BackEMF
and thus more back current spikes.

Or just test  something I still also want to do soon.

Take e.g. 5 high voltage caps with  100 nF and make
another coil with maybe 1000 windings
and make taps after 200 windings each and
put one cap there.
So finally you will have a multiple LC coil
with 5 x 200 windings in series and  1 cap bridges each
200 windings.
So basically you have 5 x LC circuits inin series
from each tank having a L with 200 windings and  cap with 100 nF.

Then use this as the Newman coil.

This enhanced capacitance of this new coil
will give you much more energy storage and
the back spikes will be much bigger again
and much more power will come out and
this will be a way to reduce the amount of copper
wire needed for a Newman motor.

It really depends on the parasitric capacitance of the
Newman coil, how much back spike energy you will be able to draw
out of it too.

Hope this helps.


Regards, Stefan.

Quote from: hartiberlin on July 31, 2008, 05:10:48 PM
Hi Sean,
well done,
but your coil is much too small.

How many Kg wire do you have ?

You need at least 10 times as much
and thus several times bigger wire diameter to have
about the same ohmical resistance as you now have.

That will give you also 10 times higher BackEMF
and thus more back current spikes.

Or just test  something I still also want to do soon.

Take e.g. 5 high voltage caps with  100 nF and make
another coil with maybe 1000 windings
and make taps after 200 windings each and
put one cap there.
So finally you will have a multiple LC coil
with 5 x 200 windings in series and  1 cap bridges each
200 windings.
So basically you have 5 x LC circuits inin series
from each tank having a L with 200 windings and  cap with 100 nF.

Then use this as the Newman coil.

This enhanced capacitance of this new coil
will give you much more energy storage and
the back spikes will be much bigger again
and much more power will come out and
this will be a way to reduce the amount of copper
wire needed for a Newman motor.

It really depends on the parasitric capacitance of the
Newman coil, how much back spike energy you will be able to draw
out of it too.

Hope this helps.


Regards, Stefan.

What? Should there be much of THICK wire? Not TINY wire? Damn it! I did buy 0,2mm wire, and it is tiny! Now I will be not able to capture back-spices=no OU?

Quote from: hartiberlin on July 31, 2008, 05:10:48 PM
Hi Sean,
well done,
but your coil is much too small.

How many Kg wire do you have ?

You need at least 10 times as much
and thus several times bigger wire diameter to have
about the same ohmical resistance as you now have.

Hi Stefan

The wire is 0.25
The Coil I used here was the 39ohms one.

I still have the 200 ohm one that I have not tried with the brushes yet. This one is 2000 winds of 0.25 wire around a 80mm tube and is exactly 200 ohms.

I like the idea of winding the caps in series but that is gonna take some time :)

Cheers

Sean.

Quote from: maxc on August 09, 2007, 07:10:56 PM
Hi all,

I'm still working shimming the neo's closer to the coil.
It's amazing on how much better it works as a generator the closer they are.
I'm on vacation till sunday. Still have 10 or more hours of work setting up the commutator. It will fire 10 to 60X per rotation. THAT'S THE KEY TO MAKE IT WORK.

I was running the newman moter in the SG Bedini mode. Strange pattern on the tv. White band of dots close together inch and 1/2 wide going from top too bottom of screen in duel transister driving. Single transister, purple wavey band inch wide.

RWG replica of Newman's Patent Office demonstration unit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNhH6wBOFbA


Take note of the odd running behavior--no obvious acceleration.