Here's what I got so far...
I have 2/two 9vdc batteries..running at about a 6 and 8 vdc charge respectively.
The 6 vdc battery is now reading 11.40 vdc
The 8 vdc battery is now reading 13.09 vdc
Both are still climbing and nothing is getting hot.
Here is the interesting part...I am charging both of them on separate circuits...and all II am using are caps and a transformer on one arrangement - and 2 caps and a small DC motor on the other.
The motor doesn't run while all this is going on.
Does anyone here have any idea what this is ?
I wonder if it can be used to amplify current gotten from an aerial or an earth battery system ?
If these circuits amount to anything significant many of you here can take some of the credit...I learned a lot about the function of things from observing exchanges of ideas and theories in various threads.
Regards...
(can u check accuracy of your multimeter?just the thing i was trapped time ago with multimeters...its battery was going dead.)
Alot of times that can be caused by internal state of the battery... the only way to know for sure is to do load testing on the batteries. Maybe you can post schematic?
I don't have a working scanner to post a diagram...is there any simple downloadable program I could use.
It would be good to get it out there so others are able to work with it.
I can't understand where the power is coming from...or why nothing is heating up...and I didn't think a 9 vdc battery could hold what is now 13.11 vdc and climbing...after an accidental shorting when measuring both systems. :)
Regards...
Cap-Z-ro
Please post a drawing of how you have everything connected.
Thanks.
.
Well I use Ubuntu linux, and I use gEDA to draw circuits. There are probably other freeware programs around... you could also do start/run/mspaint on windows and make a rough sketch. Thanks!
One good/easy and free open source program that i use for circuit is EAGLE
http://www.cadsoftusa.com/
With this you can export your circuit in image or print out your circuit on a printer etc..
I don't even know if I can construct this mess on a software program...I'd be better off making a clearly drawn hand sketch.
I'll get a scanner tomorrow and hopefully have both dagrams posted in the evening.
For anyone else looking in...as of yesterday I have passed rough copies off to someone who wouldn't understand it, but with instructions to forward it to another uninformed person who has been instructed post it on overunity.com.
Being a learner from past events, I set up this chain of people to ensure I wouldn't regret not taking those precautionary steps...after all this is the big league.
Regards...
@ creativity, sorry missed your post.
My meter seems to register varrying normal amounts on other batteries ...but none register such high voltages as my two test batteries.
Latest reading...
Battery 1....13.48
Battery 2... 11.70
Thanks One...tried the trial version but encountered error every time in the set-up field.
Regards...
Cap-Z-ro,
Just post a hand drawn Diagram showing your parts & how they are connected up. That is all we need to see what is going on.
Or you could upload a Hand Drawn Diagram on a different site & just post the link here so we can click on the Link to see it. Just trying to help out with some ideas.
Thanks.
.
I don't have the facility or the ability to post a hand drawn diagram...but will have a nice one posted tomorrow night.
latest readings
14.05 vdc
12.35 vdc
Don't forget these are only 9 volt batteries...and they are cold as a mackerel.
This is too wacky.
Regards...
Here is another idea.
You could take a couple of Close Up Photos from different angles so we can see all of the parts & how the wires are connected up. If you do that, try to keep all of the parts inside the photo.
Unfortunately, some people post photos where some wires are outside the photo & we can't see where all of the wires go to.
Thanks.
.
I just drew up 2 very clear diagrams...I will have them scanned an emailed to myself on the morrow and will post them as soon as I am able.
14.40 vdc
12.53 vdc
Still climbing...I'm tempted to watch it all night to see how high the readings will get.
for some odd reason it shuts down my meter after a while...and has to climb back up from about 0.10 volts down from when it shut off.
If I catch it when it happens, and turn it on quickly, it seems to recover faster.
Regards...
@Cap-Z-ro
Good work. Hope it pans out.
Are the batteries in series or parallel. What size capacitor are you using. Also what type transformer.
You should not leave the meter on the device for too long. Take your measurement, then remove the meter terminals. Sometimes the meter can create a flow.
Thanks wattsup...I'm getting another meter today...to ensure its not just a faulty meter.
I sure hope this is real...the possibilities are many.
There are 2 separate circuits...both doing essentially the same thing.
I have been taking measurements on both batteries alternately...both contiunue to charge whether metered or not.
Regards...
I disassembled the DC motor charger, to try something else...but the other battery has reached 18,25 volts and climbing still, so far this am.
That makes over 18 volts in a 9 volt battery...so far ?
Regards...
That's pretty neat. I hope it doesn't explode, haha!
Don't disassemble the other one , just in case you are unable to replicate for whatever reason.
Quote from: Cap-Z-ro on May 09, 2008, 10:40:14 AM
I disassembled the DC motor charger, to try something else...but the other battery has reached 18,25 volts and climbing still, so far this am.
That makes over 18 volts in a 9 volt battery...so far ?
Regards...
how u measure the voltage?u take off the battery and measure or u connect the multimeter to the running circuit? i think u may be having the readings of your cap,instead of the battery,no?
That was my first thought also...but they read the same hooked up as standing alone.
Now its time to get others involved to determine the validity of my findings.
Below are the two diagrams.
Regards...
(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi25.tinypic.com%2F2uhwhev.jpg&hash=69ad3af103657f5552ace3dfe4f13899f37a73cf)
Am I reading this right.... on the second diagram the anode ( - ) of the battery is not hooked up?
Or is that just a transcription mistake
Thanks
Nope...thats how it seems to work ??
Sure hope somebody will find an application for it besides charging batteries.
I'm wondering if a scaled up version could actually send excess ac current back into the grid ?
Regards...
Are you the new Daniel Pomerlou?
Capt Z
Have you been studing Daniel Pomerleau ?
:)
It looks to me that the only thing that your circuits have in common for sure is they both have something with inductance between 2 caps .
Maybe a battery too ...... but maybe not because in one of the circuits the battery is not fully conected .
gary
Can you post the capacitor values and voltage tolerance? Also, what kind of transformer is this (1:1?)
Thanks
@ Gary...with a few exceptions I havent' run across too many that looks at things the way I do...plus I read a lot and taking theories and inspiration from all...even yourself, and some others on here.
As a result, a lot of things are rolling around in my head...this battery thing has been perculating since I read of the vague concept/claim of "splitting the positive" a few years back.
...
Something happened to my trans charger while I was out.
When I turned my meter on, the numbers on read 18.53 vdc, the numbers on screen began to fade and disappeared.
I took the battery out and tested it with my new meter...it read 6.63 vdc.
The charging battery had dropped to 9.05 vdc.
Now I'm thing a low meter battery had produced the effect.
That may be the case, but not entirely...I then put the 6.63 vdc battery on the charger...40 minutes later it reads 7.75 vdc.
Now its a waiting game.
I think I will also have to drain a battery down to 6vdc - discharge the caps...and do another test from square one.
...
The size of the caps does not seem to matter as I just grabbed them randomly.
One reads 16v-2200uf...the other reads 16v-3300uf.
The transformer 2789-530-010
K161 '-TK
This thing really seems to be operating on its own...the 6.63 vdc battery is now up to 6.86 vdc.
I disconnected the battery and the meter dropped to 0.
My other meter rated the caps a 0.83 vdc ??
Nothing but the battery seems to be charging.
All components remain cool to the touch.
It will be interesting to see if the meter will still register an over capacity charge, as before.
Regards...
Hi Cap,
can you post a photo of your set up?
Dan
Dan, you may have noticed, I was lucky to get the diagram off...plus I'm not yet set up for any type of video.
Its really not that difficult to make using my drawings...as a matter of fact I find drawings easier to follow...wires are sometimes difficult to trace in pics or video.
Latest reading...6.90 vdc.
Regards...
Quote from: Cap-Z-ro on May 09, 2008, 04:52:20 PM
@ Gary...with a few exceptions I havent' run across too many that looks at things the way I do...plus I read a lot and taking theories and inspiration from all...even yourself, and some others on here.
As a result, a lot of things are rolling around in my head...this battery thing has been perculating since I read of the vague concept/claim of "splitting the positive" a few years back.
...
Capt Z
I have found very few people that think even a little bit like I do ...... I think it is a good thing .......even though at times it does make things more dificult .
Splitting the positive got me thinking too ......... so did the tesla switch . I thought about building one , but the most successful ones that I have heard of use mechanical switching ......not very advanced or reliable in my opinion.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I have tried a replication of your device
I have a small inductor ........but I have got .002 V in about 2 1/2 hrs
There is a small chance that my reading are being affected by a low battery too ......it has been several months sense I have changed mine .
I am going to look for a larger inductor and see if it changes anything ..
gary
Capt Z
Just curious
I was wondering if there is a connection between splitting the positive and this device ?
gary
Just to double check, I just took the reading with my new meter.
6.92 vdc.
Regards...
Re "splitting the positive"
I's been a long while since I read about t...and there were no real details given.
This is just what came from I put into my brain.
I'm not sure if I split anything...I just know it seems to work.
All I can say is it made sense to me when I put it together.
Regards...
6.94 vdc latest read
Neto! I will be scrummiging around for parts to do this. I will get back to you guys as well to help out the testing. I have 2 dvom's brand new for testing so they shouldnt be an issue. Also a camera to take pictures
mine has been holding steady for the last 2 hrs .
gary
@ Cap-Z-ro
Thanks for the diagram much appreciated, I wish more people did the same, no shame in posting a diagram that may or may not work, at least in the end peer review and replication gives us an answer :)
My tests so far have been limited by the stray spare parts which aren't at all within your specs but what the hay (I'm a former farmer boy gone high tech....can you tell :).
Can you post the specs on your motor please (voltage and size) and sorry if I missed it :)
With Respect,
Paul
@ Goat...thanks...hopefully others will follow suit.
I have a feeling free energy is not far down the road.
The motor is a small DC motor taken from a rechargeable shaver.
I just threw that one together again and am currently recharging a depleted to 6.80 vdc...it has recovered to 8.12 vdc in the last 20 minutes.
Transformer charger battery now reads 7.06 vdc..slowly climbing.
Regards...
@ Cap-Z-ro
Thanks for the input.
I hate to ask this but I feel the motor might be of interest to some,
What make and model of shaver motor was it if it isn't too much to ask.
Respect,
Paul
::) can only find one cap that came out of a busted camera for its flash but i have a small fan 12vdc .9 wand multiple 9volt batteries to hook up in series or parallel
@ Goat
I couldn't say with any certainty which shaver it came from...I don't think it much matters, my new assembly uses a smaller DC motor from a VCR and it seem to work fine.
@ Dr G
To me it is important to be open to things that pop into my mind when looking at or visualizing components of objectives.
Don't be afraid to act on an urge when putting things together, you never know where it will lead.
Regards...
From your drawing you show 2 examples of the circuit?
I try with the first one but nothing append, the motor dont even move, I used 6v with big capacitors and a tiny motor, I must do something wrong, maybe my caps are not good, i will try with different caps
@ Cap-Z-ro
Thanks again for all the open source type input, the reason I asked is because I have 4 different motors all 12 volts but when I use the smaller motor I seem to have a lower current drain but nothing OU yet but that doesn't your system doesn't work just that mine hasn't yet :)
I'd really like to go get the parts necessary tomorrow that's why I'm asking for your specs on the motor but no problem, if what you're saying about the different motor probably means I'm using the wrong rating and types of capacitors in the circuit.
BTW: I'm not expecting the motor to move as you mentioned earlier, from what I'm seeing the motor is acting like a transformer.
Respect,
Paul
Capt Z
I went back over your drawings
Have you tried your transformer with both sides of the battery connected ?
I just switched to a small motor ...........but I was using a small coil before .....with both sides of the battery connected
gary
Curious about this as im still a noobie to electronics. Did you charge the capacitors? I hooked up a few caps in the first diagram that you had and nothing happened. The fan had a small jerk and that was it.
The motor isn't supposed to turn...it just sits there while the battery charges for some reason unknown to me.
Regards...
haha okay ill check that out
::edit got the first one hooked up ill let it sit for a bit and check it out again. started with 1.075 volts.
(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi4.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy150%2Fdanfrommi%2Felectricity%2FIMG_0445.jpg&hash=2f35461318e1b3c6cff714e4bb5ef99c77d5a56b)
I didn't bother to check the caps on the first run...I had stripped them from various components.
Before assembling my 2nd motor battery charger I did short out the caps first...and it still worked.
Trans charger battery now reads 8.21 vdc rising very slowly...same for the trans battery reading 7.14.
Regards...
Quote from: Cap-Z-ro on May 09, 2008, 11:09:54 PM
The motor isn't supposed to turn...it just sits there while the battery charges for some reason unknown to me.
Regards...
Ah good thing to know :) so my stuffs was working, i need to rebuild it back lol
Okay i redid mine with a 9 volt that other battery was from a very old portable phone from 10 years ago lol
Starting with 8.81 volts from a 9volt battery. the caps im using are from an old PC power suply. 470uf 200V
I made mention of that early on...you must have skipped the early stuff.
My next objective is to run the motor at the same time.
Thats it for me for the nite...good luck with yours.
Regards...
8.82! then drops back down to 8.81 lol i think the cap size im using may effect it. it seems to be doing something but vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvery slowly. steping it up with 2 9 volts in series with a total of 17.52v @12:24 AM. Shouldnt it be charging up the caps though? i thought that was the purpose of them. Ill wait for an hour and come back see if its over a certain voltage and take the caps off see what the batteries give me.
::edit:: okay i steped it up again and added another 9 volt battery for a total of 3 first reading was 20.91volts @12:32 am its now 12:37 and reading 21.08 volts
@ Capz,
what are your two 9V batteries from and how recently did you remove them from application?
have you monitored the isolated battery voltage just in stand-alone mode for a few hours? you're probably just seeing the batteries slowly recover some of its charge...this is not uncommon
then again, if the voltage is exceeding 9V, then that's something odd. only way to tell for sure if the battery is really charging, is to load test them
@Cap-Z-ro
i have an experiment u can try out :) surround your setup with metal (Faraday cage),this way u and all of us will get to know if the charging comes from the surrounding electro-magnetic waves or is it inherent to the system.Fast way would be to cover it with metal bowl or something.
Last night I left my motor charger reading 7.09 vdc...my trans charger read 8.18 vdc.
This am the motor charger read 7.31 vdc...and climbed to 7.33 vdc in 20 minutes.
The trans charger read 8.25 vdc...and seems to have topped off.
You may be right poynt99...a low battery in my meter may have been responsible for the unusually high readings.
At one point the meter was showing over 18 vdc charge in a 9 volt battery
I don't give up easily though...I have other arrangements.
At the very least I hope this experience may spark an idea in someone else.
Dr. Green-'s idea seems interesting.
I still have high hopes for this recharging loop concept.
Regards...
At 14 hrs I have a total of .005 V
I about half the time last night was with only one wire to the battery .
I didn't notice any difference in the charging rate .
Over night I have been using a small motor .
I just added the small coil I tried yesterday .
From the battery I now have cap, motor, cap, coil, cap, then back to battery .
All the caps I am using are .1 uF polypropylene
gary
my best guess at what is going on here is that we are picking up RF from radio and TV stations and cell phones
It would be interestring if someone could move their setup to a place that is either much closer to or farther from known sources of RF for a few days .
I am guessing that the RF is building a small charge in the inductors on each cycle. That charge would then flow to the caps. I am thinking that it probably sets up a " vibration " .......not full fledged resonance .......but if we had a LC circuit that was tuned to the frequency of the RF we should pick up lots more .
I don't have a clue why it is charging the battery's It would seem like a diode would be required for that .
gary
8 hours later and 21.30 with no caps connected so it did charge some. I could move this down into the basement. Would the RF still penetrate the walls?
I started from 4.99 to 5.01, but my batteries are full, not a good test, i need to discharge them.
Also when I try to read the batteries while they are connected the value are lower, I need to disconnect the batteries to get a good reading.
Quote from: Dr.Greenthumb on May 10, 2008, 09:19:27 AM
8 hours later and 21.30 with no caps connected so it did charge some. I could move this down into the basement. Would the RF still penetrate the walls?
Dr G
That sounds like an interesting test ..... taking it down into the basement should block some of the RF .........if that is what we are picking up .
gary
Put it together in about 2 minutes...
Using two Litium Ion batteries in series, a small hobby rv motor and two 2200uf @ 16v caps.
Starting the test and watched the voltage increase from 7.20vdc to 7.25 in about ten minutes.
Completely clueless as to what's going on here. Used the diagram with the motor. Got to admit this is a little wierd. So who's going to be the first to explain this?
Carl
Like resonanceman said it may be the artificial frequencies in the air from TV Radio etc.
I remember seeing a youtube video where a guy hooked up some rather large caps in series alone and they started to charge up from nothing.
Quote from: Dr.Greenthumb on May 10, 2008, 10:00:11 AM
Like resonanceman said it may be the artificial frequencies in the air from TV Radio etc.
I remember seeing a youtube video where a guy hooked up some rather large caps in series alone and they started to charge up from nothing.
If you think so ....
Try it "outside" garden ...
If not possible.
Do it in -disconected- Microwave-Oven , so you have an faraday cave. No wave disortion come in from
anyware (but als not "ether" (?) )
Try it , and you have better knowledges !
Gustav Pese
@Pese,
I'm quite sure you're right on this. Too many spurious signals surround my location for this to mean anything. Great for a quick test though. Also, battery (s) should sit for some time to level out before trying this one.
Carl
;D
verry kool cap!!
cant wait to see more .... 8)
ist
Ill let the batteries sit over the day today and will stick it into a microwave downstairs and go at it again.
Adding a second coil and another cap didn't seem to help
6 hrs and only .001 more V
The idea of using a microwave as a faraday cage sounds great to me .
gary
My trans charged battery seems to have reached its limit @ 8.25 vdc.
My motor charged battery is still gaining slowly and now reads 7.44 vdc.
It will be interesting to see if it will level off before full charge is reached.
Although I am not getting the same wild findings as before, batteries seem to be charging nonetheless.
Once it reaches its top level I will repeat the process in the micro wave...after reheating my pizza of course. :)
I am seeing a lot of excellent ideas and suggestions...who knows someone stumble on to something else viable in the process.
Regards...
In an effort to ramp things up, I attempted to incorporate a magnet and hollow coil.
While poking around, I applied an magnet to a coil recovered from an answering machine.
This coil had a metal? pin which was drawn in and out of the coil during the machine's function.
I found that if I aligned the magnet in a certain manner to the coil, the pin would shoot out...and whenever I push it back in, it pops right back out again...this can be done over and over.
I have never seen a regular ceramic magnet repel a piece of metal which has no magnetic properties on its own...has anyone else ?
I'm am open to suggestions on how this force can be applied...not only on my circuits, but on any device.
Regards...
7.48 vdc on the motor charger...still climbing...though slowly.
Quote from: Cap-Z-ro on May 10, 2008, 04:25:13 PM
I found that if I aligned the magnet in a certain manner to the coil, the pin would shoot out...and whenever I push it back in, it pops right back out again...this can be done over and over.
I have never seen a regular ceramic magnet repel a piece of metal which has no magnetic properties on its own...has anyone else ?
I'm am open to suggestions on how this force can be applied...not only on my circuits, but on any device.
Capt Z
any idea how that coil is wound?
if it could be turned on and off again it might be the start of a motor .
The only thing I can think of that pushes with magnetic fields is when 2 of the same magnetic feilds oppose each other ........is the metal pin magnitised? Do other metal pieces do the same as the pin?
gary
"any idea how that coil is wound?"
...the coil has one line and one out...leads are not connected to anything when this occurs.
"if it could be turned on and off again it might be the start of a motor."
...I'm not sure what you mean.
"The only thing I can think of that pushes with magnetic fields is when 2 of the same magnetic feilds oppose each other ........is the metal pin magnitised?"
...no, the pin doesn't attract anything, other than my attention. :)
"Do other metal pieces do the same as the pin?"
...I haven't tried any other pieces yet...I would have to mill a piece of metal to the same dimension, in order to determine that.
It is a very interesting effect though, with the potential yet to be determined.
Regards...
The latest motor charger reading is now 7.50 vdc
Dr.Green,
Your fan is a most likely a DC-DC motor (lots of electronics), not a standard DC motor.
Your capacitor is nothing like 22,000uF.
Cap Z-ro,
What kind of 9V battery are you using...zinc carbon, Alkaline, NiCd, NimH ?
Have you tried to discharge the battery and measured the capacity down to say 7V.
Regards
Rob
@ MeggerMan
"What kind of 9V battery are you using...zinc carbon, Alkaline, NiCd, NimH ?
...they are just dollar store batteries...the only descriptive they have is that they are mercury free.
"Have you tried to discharge the battery and measured the capacity down to say 7V."
...I discharged the battery on both chargers down below 7 vdc.
The transformer charger topped off at 8.26 vdc.
The motor charger is still charging slowly...now up to 7.53 vdc.
Regards...
Your Motor charger could use the small negative resistance
between the graphite brush and the copper commutator of your
DC motor.
Then, if a local radio transmitter or mobile phone station
broadcasts enough RF power it could
get rectified between this 2 dissimular graphite-copper
contacts.
Play with the contacts in the commutator to maybe enhance the
effect.
I guess, if you put it in a Faraday cage the charging will be gone...
Regarding the charging of the battery with the transformer
and using just one pin only from the battery, well,
maybe you just push electrons into this one pin and
keep the other pin at the surrounding potential,
so there is also some kind of pumping action, that
charges up this battery ?
Do you have a scope and can test the voltage on this
battery ? Are there any spikes on it ?
Is the transformer circuit anyhow oscillating ?
Regards, Stefan.
"Your Motor charger could use the small negative resistance
between the graphite brush and the copper commutator of your
DC motor.
Then, if a local radio transmitter or mobile phone station
broadcasts enough RF power it could
get rectified between this 2 dissimular graphite-copper
contacts.
Play with the contacts in the commutator to maybe enhance the
effect."
...My knowledge and understanding of electronics is very basic Stefan...I am not sure how to 'play with the contacts in the commutator'.
"I guess, if you put it in a Faraday cage the charging will be gone..."
...I won't be able to confirm that until I reach the limit of the battery charge...possibly by tomorrow.
"Regarding the charging of the battery with the transformer
and using just one pin only from the battery, well,
maybe you just push electrons into this one pin and
keep the other pin at the surrounding potential,
so there is also some kind of pumping action, that
charges up this battery ?"
...that could very well be the case.
"Do you have a scope and can test the voltage on this
battery ? Are there any spikes on it ?"
...all I have for testing at present are 2 multimeteres.
"Is the transformer circuit anyhow oscillating ?"
...I have disassembled the transformer based unit once it leveled off at 8.26 vdc...I am now testing other configurations...possibly involving permanent magnets.
Regards...
Latest reading on the motor charger is 7.55 vdc.
Hey guys
Well I have decided to try this experiment on a little larger scale.
What you see here is a 12 volt tractor battery that has been deep
discharged to about 6 volts a month ago an left to site. Checking this
battery this morning at 6.25 volts, I hooked in the 540 size dc motor
and Caps . Cap one is 4000uf - 480 volts and Cap two is 405uf - 370 volts
The starting voltage at 6.25 volts has climbed to 7.17 in 5 hours.
This battery was a 6.25 for at least a month. Very interesting results
and still charging or climbing as it were.
Sorry that I do not have the starting voltage picture , it had some kind
of compression error and was all pixelated.
So we can start from here and see where it goes.
IronHead
Quote from: MeggerMan on May 10, 2008, 07:17:56 PM
Dr.Green,
Your fan is a most likely a DC-DC motor (lots of electronics), not a standard DC motor.
Your capacitor is nothing like 22,000uF.
i didnt know there was a difference between a dc-dc motor care to explain? I know the caps arnt 22,000 uF. Its what i had at the moment.
Good job IronH.
Thanks for the input...it is encouraging to see that you are also getting basically the same results.
This device certainly seems to have some real potential.
Regards...
Latest motor charger reading...7.57 vdc
Quote from: IronHead on May 10, 2008, 09:54:11 PM
The starting voltage at 6.25 volts has climbed to 7.17 in 5 hours.
This battery was a 6.25 for at least a month. Very interesting results
and still charging or climbing as it were.
Ironhead
I am guessing that the battery is not in real good shape if it had been setting discharged that long .
I wonder if it would improve any if you just let if charge a few weeks
Pulsing DC is said to be able to desolve some of the sulfite crystals ...... there is a possability this way of charging might too .
gary
Two things I would like to add....
To quickly deplete 9v batteries of charge a metal type scrubbing pad rubbed accross the battery may work as it shorts it out and is a good way to start fires when in dire need.
Also a good cheap test subject for the motor that every one should have if you are a junk collecter like most of us are:
A FLOPPY DRIVE MOTOR
Just some helpful things that may help average testers along... The load test is important indeed but a floppy drive motor while the specs are unknown to me I would guess would be a smaller voltage good for a load testing on smaller scale...
Anyhow Cap hats off look forward to reading your progress...
PS not 100% sure on how well the discharging works but I suspect it should work fairly well but use with caution as it will start fires and may short out your battery to a non recoverable state but we are talking expirementation here so as always use precaussions nessacary.
-infringer-
Quote from: Cap-Z-ro on May 10, 2008, 07:38:35 PM
...they are just dollar store batteries...the only descriptive they have is that they are mercury free.
If the battery does not say alcaline or some other kind of battery it is a plain carbon battery
gary
My test has not done much this after noon ...........002 V in 6 hrs
I just switched to bigger caps
gary
@ Cap-Z-ro,
I assume you are using a 9 volt re-chargable type battery. Can you give the manufacturer and model number of the battery? I do not know if you have been following David Bowling's progress, but he found that the motor used made a big difference in his circuit.
EDIT: Sorry, I just noticed that you have already answered this.
Hmmm...not sure what to make of this.
After my trans charger topped off at 8.26 vdc, I reassembled using...
- another small DC motor along with 2 speaker coils
- my hollow coil that spits out a metal dowel when a permanent magnet is applied to it -
a bifilar torroid coil wound on what appears to be ferrite
- and one cap
Ths set up tagged an extra volt on the battery over night...reading 8.27 vdc.
Latest reading on my original DC motor charger...7.65 vdc
Regards...
The "does the motor run" questions.
No, Why? the motor does not and will not run as there is no measurable current passing through the motor. The Capacitors are not able to pass conventional current in this way. With the first Cap wired in series to the battery we can see the voltage of the lead acid battery now 7.8VDC going into the cap and 4.3 volts coming out of the Cap with no- 0.0 current that can be measured.
So I do not believe the battery is taking a real true current charge and is only showing a voltage change and little to no running amperage change of any kind. But as stated above this is what I believe and not hard fact yet. So lets see what happens in the next many days.
Ok , I am going in a different direction at the moment to see what is causing the voltage increase effect.
Process of elimination. Is it the DC motor that is causing this effect. Well lets remove the motor and find out.
Here we can see the voltage still increasing without the motor connected. I will run this for a few hours to see if this effect is stable and continuing.
Remember now that this battery was full discharged to 6.25 volts and stored for around 30 days.
The battery itself can not be climbing in charge ( Electrolytic stored self charge) because of this fact.
I sure hope you are wrong IHead...but that will be determined by someone more knowledge than me.
Something to consider relative to a previous question:
Early on in one of my arrangements that showed no results, I gave the motor a spin with my fingers...to see if possibly it would run using a manual start.
It didn't run...but my meter showed an increase in charge to the battery, which dropped back down when I stopped turning the shaft of the motor.
It wasn't what I was looking for so I didn't explore it...if I had been smart about it I should have used another DC motor to turn it, and see if there was any current gain.
I will have to see if I can duplicate the arrangement again...which may not be easy now that I know more...I may have to watch some TV to dumb myself down to my previous mental level. :)
Regards...
Latest results on 1st motor charger...7.68 vdc.
Dubble posted
Inside of the DC motor there must be a completed circuit. In order for that to happen the commutator brushes must be in contact with the commutator . Or so it would seem ( look below for antenna explanation) . If the commutators are not in contact and are open, the circuit is then open where by no electric will pass. This of cource is in a brush motor and not the case in a brushless motor. So we need to be very specific in which type of motor we are taking about . I am using a 540 standard DC brush motor. This is the type motor you see in most cordless drills and such.
However if the connection is broken and the battery is still showing a charge increase then we may consider the leads used to make our connection may be acting as some kind of antenna as there would be no complete circuit. This is a whole different perspective and needs to also be investigated in time. The questions remain , is this an RF receiver, Zero point energy transfer, Or some other phenomenology all together
We will find out
IronHead
I'm not sure how a brushless motor is set up...and are they very common...it would be interesting to see what results such a motor could produce.
Regards...
A brushless motor is inverted from the brush type motor where the wire field coil is on the outside (Stator) . the Rotor is made of permanent magnets. A brushless motor would be the type of motor you would see in a PC fan configuration and all other electronic equipment fans. Using this type of motor eliminates RF interference caused by commutators in a brush type motor. There is no contact in a brushless motor to make noise. In this case there is always a complete circuit because there is no Stator /Rotor contact points within the motor , Only a field coil wrapped around permanent magnet array. Similar to a pulse motor.
Great Photos IronHead. Thank You for sharing them.
Question = What is that between the Yellow Wire & the Battery + Terminal? Is it some kind of steel bar, or ??
Someone asked about Brushless Motors. Every PC fan motor has one. If you take it apart, it is a 3 PHASE Motor. There is a small circuit board with Transistors that create 3 Phase Power to drive the Motor Coils. Brilliant design at Low Cost. However, because it has transistors, it can be EASILY damaged by over voltage spikes!!
I had a PC Fan once that was making a Growling Noise. It turned out to be 1 PHASE OUT. The Motor was still barely turning on 2 Phases. Amazing little things.
.
That terminal is a shunt so that an analog amp meter can be use to determine current load. Along with a stop/alarm clock we can see what load this battery can take and for how long giving the results of stored charge.
Thanks for the brushless info guys...I believe I have saved one of those also.
Would there be voltage spikes in a 9 volt circuit that could damage the transistors in the motor circuitry ?
Regards...
Latest readings on motor charger...7.69 vdc
@ IronHead
Great Idea with that shunt. I used to have a couple 300 Amp Shunts, but I lost them when I moved. Besides 2 Large Bolts for the Main Current, they had 2 little screws for an Analog Meter. I used mine for measuring large currents. Can you give us an example of using the Stop Clock with the Shunt & do a typical calculation. I never tried that.
@Cap-Z-Ro
It takes more than a 9 Volt Batt to blow the 12 V PC Brushless Motor Transistors. My best guess is that it would take a Spike or Spikes of 25V or higher.
Thanks.
.
Well if you have an 18 amp hour battery (18Ah also called Deep Cell charge rating ) then you should be able to discharge 18 amps for one hour. Not to be confused with Cold Cranking Amps. CCA is the batteries peak discharge ability. This current discharge rating also has a time factor involved before damage occurs.
That is if the battery is rated properly. It is best to do this Amp Hour test on a full charged battery first to compare results of battery charging cycles. A smaller battery would be rated in milliamps such as 2800ma.
This would mean 2.8 amps for one hour at its rated voltage. Also 2.8 amps in one hours to charge this battery to peak. Or any combinations of time and current to achieve the overall 2.8Ah
Batteries can get pretty complicated when it comes to charging. Surface charge, Deep charge, Ghost/Virtual charge, charge curve, over charging and so forth. Time and current rate is what dictates what type of charge a battery will take and/or maintain.. Voltage means little, the voltage in normal conditions only needs to be just above the battery peak rating. This is something we do not see in the case with this series cap motor cap configuration, SCMC. We see voltages far below what the battery rating is on these caps and the battery should not be taking a charge because of this fact. So we still do not know if the battery is taking a current charge , usable energy
We are going to walk through the physical behavior of electrical charge and discharge of this battery charging configuration and why these things seems to be happening based on what seems to be some kind of phenomenon. Yes I am saying the answers are already known , but we will run the cource to make sure we are not seeing some kind of anomalies effect here. Why , because when people hook thing up in ways that have not been studied in some type of incorrect circuit beyond specification for its components. This is when we find strange effects or accidental discoveries.
Hook it up backward, sideways and inside out . What does it do.
You will never truly know unless you Build It!
IronHead
Thanks FBird...that is good to know.
The motor I have was salvaged from an old desktop comp...it looks pretty rugged...at least in its housing...haven't opened it up yet.
Thanks IHead...very useful and informative battery info.
Latest motor charger rating @ 7.71 vdc.
Regards...
I am still testing
not getting much
only an additional .002 V today
I am going to my storage unit .. I remember I had a bigger motor
If I can find it maybe a can get a little better output
Ironhead
I like your attitude
It is my belief that when we find OU it will be in the little quirks that the EE types have been taught how to work around .
This is a cool little quirk ....... it is disobaying several " laws "
I hope we can figure out what it is doing and how to help it do more of what it is doing .
gary
Thank you
With the motor removed as explained in the earlier post that voltage has dropped from 7.85 at last check point to
7.20 . This concludes that the motor or some device similar must be in place via "Cap-Z-ro" drawings. The DC brush motor is to be reinstated immediately with a starting settled voltage of 7.20. We can rule out that this is an effect from the Capacitors and/or copper wire antenna array by way of the connections between Caps alone. In this we must assume that carbon contacts, copper wire coils and a magnetic field must be intact. At least until the process of elimination is applied to this section of the apparatus, The motor itself.
The next part of this process would be to remove the carbon contacts or to build a simple copper wire coil with an appropriate fixed permanent magnetic field applied to the coil. This will eliminate the carbon contact element.
So before this takes place I will give the system some time to "charge" back up, using the word charge loosely here.
Dr.Greenthumb,
DC-DC motor is a brushless setup that uses field effect transistors, some logic, stator coils and a permanent magnet that is the rotor.
Wiki explains it in detail here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brushless_DC_electric_motor
Ironhead,
Good work!
Could you try placing a meter in series with the battery connect to measure the (current if any) flowing into the battery.
You may need a meter that can measure down to uA.
Its good to see you are getting +ve results too. I may need to get some bits out to try this too.
I have a Le Mans 240SB (I think) DC motor I could try.
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=45472&sid=11170
The stator windings are very thick so may not be as effective as your setup or Cap-Z-ro's.
[edit]
OK, here is my setup, cannot find the Le Mans motor so I used a 3V motor instead, voltage is climbing at about 1mV per second but there is no current flowing, not that my meter can detect (0.00mA):
(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi100.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm25%2Fkingrs%2Fcap_motor_charger.jpg&hash=562653aa5cb0078bdabb243b22b4d8c031147b91)
[/edit]
Regards
Rob
@ IronHead: Great work & process of elimination techniques. I too think there is reason to continue research on this.
By the way, here is an interesting part of Dr Beardon's book on O.U. that may apply here
THE FINAL SECRET OF FREE ENERGY? Dr. T. E. Bearden (1993)
This paper contains the real secret of tapping the vacuum energy very simply, using almost any source of potential (battery, electrostatic generator a la Swiss electrostatic device (the Testatika), elevated wire wire/250 V/m in the earth/ionosphere potential, etc). The objective is for the moderately technical reader to understand how to build and understand not only a single device, but also hundreds of different kinds of them.
While it is quite simple, the "magic principle" contained in this paper only took me some 30 years to discover.
In other words, here's the iron rule: If you draw current, you kill the bipolarity gate furnishing the potential gradient (source of energy density). In that case, you kill the source. If you do not draw current, you do not kill the bipolarity gate and you do not shut down the source. In that case, you can continue to "use" it and extract trapped EM energy from it forever.
Should the grounds be the same between the load circuit and the collection circuit so that load electron current is returned through the back EMF of the primary source, then exactly as much excess work will be done inside the source to dissipate its separation of charges as was done in the external load to furnish useful work and in the external losses. In that case, overunity is destroyed, because one is using one-half the excess free energy to destroy the source faster, while the remaining half is distributed among all external loads and losses.
Since there are always some external losses besides the load, then the ratio of load power to source dissipation power is always less than unity in a conventional closed-loop circuit containing both load and source. Hence the necessity for utilizing two isolated circuits: one where energy is collected freely from the source, and one where energy is dissipated as work in the load without dissipative work in the source, and energy shuttling between them.
.
Voltage with brush motor in place and in brush contact is consistent between all caps at 6.25 volts scaling with overall voltage of now 7.28vdc . The current is immeasurable and more virtual " if " the battery is building current. This is rather hard to explain. Any type of oscillation would also be virtual or immeasurable.
Thank you "FatBird" yes I have read all of Tom Beardon's work or translations as it were of Whittaker and others alike. Along with what Tom has come up with based on his knowledge there in and abit beyond his predecessors.
@ IronHead
I have read numerous admonitions that Cold Electricity current, aka Aether current, cannot be measured in a conventional manner with an Ammeter or MilliAmmeter. I think the best we can do is monitor the battery voltages to see what is going on.
What is your opinion?
.
Yes that is correct . Scalar potential as such will shoot right through the meter backward. Again the word "backward" is used loosely here as direction is also very hard to explain such as the word spin when talking about such energies.We jump far outside of the flat space laws of thermodynamics here.
The meters of today will not measure such an energy type unless it is greatly slowed to the speed of light and captured in a magnetic field , which is achievable but rare. You see a glimpse of this in Tesla, Beardon, Badini, Mullar and others works.
Lets keep it simple for now.
Quote from: FatBird on May 11, 2008, 05:44:32 PM
@ IronHead
I have read numerous admonitions that Cold Electricity current, aka Aether current, cannot be measured in a conventional manner with an Ammeter or MilliAmmeter. I think the best we can do is monitor the battery voltages to see what is going on.
What is your opinion?
Yes, I was going to say cold electricty too.
There is no current flowing that I can measure +/- 10uA
I will give is a day or so and see what happens.Â
What I did notice is that when I connected the meter the voltage was climbing at a random rate and seem to be climbing faster because I was standing over it.
Also when the battery gets to about 8.4V I can then test the capacity using a Peak Prodigy Pro battery analyser and then repeat the experiment so I will be able to measure the gain in power.
Mine is the original version of this one:
http://www.ripmax.com/item.asp?itemid=O-IP2801
Voltage is now 4.230V and that's a climb of 0.546V in 1 hour so by the morning it should be up to about 8.5V, but I think it will slow down as time goes on.
So far so good.
Regards
Rob
Quote from: IronHead on May 11, 2008, 05:51:52 PM
Yes that is correct . Scalar potential as such will shoot right through the meter backward. Again the word "backward" is used loosely here as direction is also very hard to explain such as the word spin when talking about such energies.We jump far outside of the flat space laws of thermodynamics here.
The meters of today will not measure such an energy type unless it is greatly slowed to the speed of light and captured in a magnetic field , which is achievable but rare. You see a glimpse of this in Beardon, Badini, Mullar and others works.
Lets keep it simple for now.
Ironhead
For now I am going to assume that I am right about the induuctors picking up RF of some kind .......and between the coils and the caps a vibration is formed
That vibration would cause a vibration in the aether .......and that would cause a flow of aether energy .
How would we best use or convert this energy ?
I was wondering if it could be this aether flow that was charging the batterys .......but it would almost have to be an AC flow to get through the caps
I would think that an AC flow would tend to discharge more than it would charge because of the already present voltage difference
gary
I do not think any of us know yet if the batteries are charging with a usable current.
If this is a Ghost Charge then we have no usable energy here.
Edited
If this is "aether energy" causing the Ghost Charge then it is back to the system most of you all have been striving to create , The Aether Converter. A system that captures the current from such an energy . Normally slowing the wave in a very long wire ( at least 1000 feet) with an applied strong magnetic field. Or in a spark gap.
Just happened upon this thread.
The caps are functioning as diodes for one.
If you read my post on making your own diodes using baking soda and water.
Then use a piece of aluminum for one electrode and a piece of stainless steel for the other.
This makes a cheap diode, also functions as a capacitor if you use larger plates for the aluminum and stainless steel.
So if the coils are picking up radio waves from the area then the caps will rectify it.
A strong source of radio waves is a cell phone or cordless phone or a wireless computer modem.
For more info on the baking soda diode check out my post on the subject.
http://www.overunity.com/index.php/topic,612.0.html
An interesting test would be to try connecting a baking soda diode in place of the capacitors.
Also try using an analog meter with no batteries in it.
Digital meters sometimes put out a slight voltage of there own which can slowly charge a battery.
An analog meter is just a coil with a magnet and a spring. The input voltage turns the coil against the spring.
Interesting post.
Quote from: AbbaRue on May 11, 2008, 10:39:00 PM
Just happened upon this thread.
The caps are functioning as diodes for one.
If you read my post on making your own diodes using baking soda and water.
Then use a piece of aluminum for one electrode and a piece of stainless steel for the other.
This makes a cheap diode, also functions as a capacitor if you use larger plates for the aluminum and stainless steel.
So if the coils are picking up radio waves from the area then the caps will rectify it.
A strong source of radio waves is a cell phone or cordless phone or a wireless computer modem.
For more info on the baking soda diode check out my post on the subject.
http://www.overunity.com/index.php/topic,612.0.html
An interesting test would be to try connecting a baking soda diode in place of the capacitors.
Also try using an analog meter with no batteries in it.
Digital meters sometimes put out a slight voltage of there own which can slowly charge a battery.
An analog meter is just a coil with a magnet and a spring. The input voltage turns the coil against the spring.
Interesting post.
AbbaRue
That might be part of what is going on for some of the people
I have been using polypropylene caps .....so no chance of that kind or rectafier action here .
I remember reading about making a baking soda diode .......I havn't done it yet .........but I have been wondering about it .
is there a " normal ' voltage drop for a diode like that or is the voltage drop dependant on the distance between the plates
gary
I've tested this circuit with 12 V fan from PC power supply , but I'm impatient and pulsed fan with another fully charged 9V battery to allow it running but not in constant mode ut rather to speed up and slow down in rapid succession. After a couple of seconds of doing that a have voltage climb from 7.29 to 7.42. Note : that this fan seems to work only in one direction.
I think now of such modifications :
1. another circuit to speed up /slow down cycle or to run this fan at constant speed related probably to resonant frequency of this circuit (first cap + fan is LC)
2 . power is directly through the diode from charged battery - it may or may not work but idea is interesting and could produce self-regulating resonant circuit
Comments ?
It is funny how all the voltages that are being reported are the same or near. Even though we all have different Caps , motors and batteries. Does anyone here have the ability to get this thing off ground level and up say 3 stores in there home or higher?
It is raining here and my voltage has dropped to 7.09 down from 7.81 after charging with the motor connected last night. This morning we are having heavy rain. I do not know when it started , but voltage has dropped way down.
There is no doubt that this is a wave receiver device. The first step in capturing some waves but not all waves are man made. So it is a good experiment to play with.
IronHead,
That's interesting.My theory is different but it has also a space for nature scalar wave input. I think that first cap with motors constitutes LC circuit with rotating spark gap (commutator). Because it's not running it may be also a receiver of scalar waves.Why ? It's quite simple.During a thunderstorm there is a fluctuation of Earth magnetic field density which surely generate some current in motor coils
I have much better results with motor running (in my case it's PC fan powered by another battery even 4.5V)
A good approach in taking the device to the next level.
So we now have two studies going on . Those with static fields and those with rotating fields.
I like it.
@ AbbaRue
The whole digital vs analog meter thing. I am sure that none of us that are using digital meters are leaving the meters on while the system is charging for these long periods of time. I only turn my meter on when taking a measurements and then it is turned off. I assure you the meter is not charging the battery. I am certainly not
charging an 12volt 180 CCA 18Ah tractor battery with a 1.2 volt 600ma AA battery.
Could someone measure inductance of motor while running and when rest on board and not run for a longer period ?
might bypass the brushes and go straight to the coils on the stator or find/make two inductors to replace the motor
I tried the experiment last night before heading to bed.
I took an old 9V $1 cheapy I had laying around.
I measured it before I connected anything to it at 6.37V
After about 15 minutes the voltage had climbed to 6.41V.
I used two 1000uf 100V caps.
So I tried it on a bad gel cell I have that keeps loosing power fast while sitting.
Also used two 5600uF 100V caps. It still kept going down.
Will have to try it with one of my good cells that needs some charge.
I think by now we can rule out the brushes as many of you are getting the same effect with PC fans which have no brushes. So I think the next thing is as Grumpy suggests and what was talked about earlier. That is to build a larger coil and magnet setup mimicking the motor opting out the brushes. This way the magnets can also be removed to determine there part in this experiment.
Well as it is still raining here my setup refuses to charge and the voltage is steady at 7.09 , again down from the 7.81 last night.
Quote from: IronHead on May 12, 2008, 03:40:34 PM
I think by now we can rule out the brushes as many of you are getting the same effect with PC fans which have no brushes. So I think the next thing is as Grumpy suggests and what was talked about earlier. That is to build a larger coil and magnet setup mimicking the motor opting out the brushes. This way the magnets can also be removed to determine there part in this experiment.
Well as it is still raining here my setup refuses to charge and the voltage is steady at 7.09 , again down from the 7.81 last night.
Cover the positive terminal of the battery and caps with tape or other insulating material to insulate them from the air and each other. Just cover them up - ain't got to get fancy.
I have a deep cell battery that self-discharges much faster when sitting on the bench if the terminals are exposed (it's a maintenance-free liquid lead-acid type), so I cover the positive one. If you do this while your humidity is high and the voltage goes up - might be the terminal leakage. If no change, then I would guess it is "environmental".
Has anyone noticed a change between day and night measurements?
I'm thinkin that the circuit looks similar to Dollard Longitudinal analog simulation, where you have two identical inductors capacitively coupled to the battery, but with different magnetic bias on the inductors from the position of the rotor relative to the magnets.
Is there a difference with no magnets or with just one removed?
I was able to recharge 4 AA batteries (1.2V NiMH) from 3.4V to 4.8V.
Seam to work pretty good so far, I dont even need the charger!! :)
I am not 100% sure if its a true charge, now I test to see what is the time to discharge the batteries with a fan. But so far that looks pretty good.
UPDATE:
Even if the voltage say its 4.8V the charge drop quite fast, I was not able to run the fan for more then 10 min, when its charged with the charger I can run the fan for hour.
@ IronHead.
Yes, you are right about the Aether changing voltage depending on the weather & time of day. Here is a great post testifying of that fact.
http://dallastexas.net/PinkyAndTheBrain/archive/00000173.htm
I also suspect you are right that a Coil may do a better job than a motor?
Thanks.
.
@TheOne , we have the voltage but there is a problem with current at this point. We dont know if there is any yet. So the only thing to do is to try and scale this thing up and eliminate parts that are not needed. We hope in scaling we can find some small current that will give these batteries a real charge. Or will we need another component. Lets find out
@FatBird , Yes since we have ruled out the commutator having anything to do with this effect then we can move on to bigger and better magnets and coils.
I just attached this single 18ga coil I had from another experiment some time ago. The core is filled with FE304.To the left and right of the coil are two 3/4"x 3/4" N50 Neo magnets opposing. I suspect this gauge wire is far to large and would prefer something like 1000 feet of 32 gauge. But this is all I have at the moment at least that will fit on this table.
As you can see the starting settled voltage with this experiment is 7.08 volts , everything else is the same.
It is still raining here, so lets see what happens with a single coil and two magnets. Remember these are N50 magnets, so the field is huge!
No need to build a fancy apparatus at this point.
Hoping this type of an upgrade might increase any current that my be available.
@ All
I charged three dead 9 volt transistor type batteries from 6.3 to 7.8 Volts in 24 hours but when I hooked them up to a small 25 mA bulb the light quickly drained the voltage so it seems like an apparent voltage charge but no power to it, oh well I'm not giving up yet. I know this wasn't near the original setup but that's what I had at hand :)
For the record, the batteries were hooked up in series with 1 KV disk caps and a tiny toy type motor, much smaller components than my first setup.
BTW: I like the coil idea, I think I'll try that next.
Regards to all,
Paul
Some "means" of charging batteries actually change the battery - like conditioning - and takes time for this to occur. So, no or lw current may be a temporary condition.
@Grumpy
What you are saying makes sense. Aether energy is not "traditional" (yet!) and the batteries have been designed and conditioned to be used "traditionally". Perhaps if these batteries are completely drained several times, then "charged" back up with these various setups, they will be conditioned to using Aether.
The problem I see is that IF this is actually Aether energy that's charging these batteries, then connecting them to a "traditional" motor setup might be defeating the effect. So if you have a Aether charged battery, you may need a different type of loading device to take advantage of that energy. What device would that be? Maybe using try a conditioned battery in an water electrolysis system or something similar.
Just a thought.
I am finding that there is a cycle of charge and discharge going on here. So I have to figure out what the timing is on this to eliminate the discharge factor via a disconnect or some reroute.
@ all...
Very interesting ideas, well worth exploring...I am going to leave my motor charger connected and wait - checking on the progress over time.
Latest reading...7.88 vdc...and climbing very slowly now.
This is following an accidental discharge shortly after my last reading, which brought the battery down below 6. vdc.
Regards...
Cap-Z-ro,
Anything new on your circuit?
.
My other life keep interfering with my real interests...so I haven't done too much.
I did find that other circuit where my voltage shoots up when I rotate the motor with my fingers.
This wkend I will use another motor driven by a separate battery to turn the dormant motor, and see if it will generate enough energy to charge both batteries.
I have lots of ideas and lots of irons going ...time is my problem.
Latest on my other motor charger, still climbing gradually...7.95 vdc
Regards...
@ Cap-Z-ro
Nice to see you keep on posting, too many disappear after making a claim without any follow up. Right or wrong circuit it doesn't matter, if ever we could sort this forum into what works and what doesn't it would go a long way into informing newbies such as myself into avoiding pitfalls other than to validate them as right or wrong ;)
Regards,
Paul
Quote from: Cap-Z-ro on May 15, 2008, 08:10:29 PM
My other life keep interfering with my real interests...so I haven't done too much.
I did find that other circuit where my voltage shoots up when I rotate the motor with my fingers.
This wkend I will use another motor driven by a separate battery to turn the dormant motor, and see if it will generate enough energy to charge both batteries.
I have lots of ideas and lots of irons going ...time is my problem.
Latest on my other motor charger, still climbing gradually...7.95 vdc
Regards...
maybe you could attach it to a very small pulse/magnet motor ? .. /shrug
I will be trying everything that comes to mind borg.
How is a pulse motor configured...as opposed to a regular DC type or the brushless kind...and are they commonly found in electronic devices ?
I may even have one and not know it.
Regards...
I will be trying everything that comes to mind borg.
How is a pulse motor configured...as opposed to a regular DC type or the brushless kind...and are they commonly found in electronic devices ?
I may even have one and not know it.
Regards...
huuummmm youll have to build one , a coil some magents and timing device, if your not sure what i mean ill go find a link or two for ya.
Thanks borg...I tried utube, but for some reasom my computer will start to play a selection but then stops.
Regards...
My alkaline 9V battery climbed from 7.40V to 8.12V and that is a real charge but next day it did the same without circuit :-) I'm going to better spend my time and rather create Bedini monopole or experiment with Dr Stiffler SEC excitor the testing that circuit.
For me it doesn't work, sorry.
My results on this are Ghosts as suspected but must always investigate just to make sure.
You are right IHead...something is happening that needs exploring.
Can this 'movement' be amplified..or applied to start something else ?
Regards...
You are right IHead...something is happening that needs exploring.
Can this 'movement' be amplified..or applied to start something else ?
Regards...
I think that alkaline batteries can be charged but normally they heat up and explode .Today I left them and forgot and one was boiling when I finally checked !
However Bedini showed that such batteries (exactly 9V alkaline) can be charged with his method and it remain cold. John Bedini post such comment someday : "Granted that a non-rechargeable battery is not a proper candidate for testing this technology, but if such can be recharged at all, which I do all the time, then that is savings for us all."
Looking at his circuit I think that even a coil with diode and battery could work in place when magnetic field is disturbed (there are such anomalies of Earth magnetic field)
No matter of coil size or magnetic field strength I still see nothing but Ghost charge.
It also must be mentioned that I do not live near any high power electric line or radio
type broadcasting. I will still fool around with this to see what can be done. I would like
to hear what you guys that are using running motor have found.
Carbon brush breakdown charging and such..
I'm still trying various combinations of things along the same lines...along with considering some other concepts.
Nothing to report as yet though.
My original motor charger has slowly climbed to 8.02 vdc.
I am shortly going to run the test inside a dormant microwave oven - to establish whether or not an unknown source responsible for the charging effect.
Regards...
Could it just be that this setup forces the ambient charge in the caps into the battery? Since there's no real current in the ambient charge of a cap, there's no real power being imparted. The reason it's all cold is because there's no current. It's all voltage.
Tell me this, can you run a very tiny load, say an LED, while still charging the bat in this fashion?
This should be impossible with normal energy. However your single wire charging make me think perhaps we're not just dealing with normal energy. Ed gray split the positive at very very high voltages, inside a cage to capture it. If this is similar in any way, it's an inversion of some type.
I tell you this, neither configuration should do anything at all. Interesting.
Quote from: gn0stik on May 21, 2008, 08:33:51 PM
Could it just be that this setup forces the ambient charge in the caps into the battery? Since there's no real current in the ambient charge of a cap, there's no real power being imparted. The reason it's all cold is because there's no current. It's all voltage.
Tell me this, can you run a very tiny load, say an LED, while still charging the bat in this fashion?
This should be impossible with normal energy. However your single wire charging make me think perhaps we're not just dealing with normal energy. Ed gray split the positive at very very high voltages, inside a cage to capture it. If this is similar in any way, it's an inversion of some type.
I tell you this, neither configuration should do anything at all. Interesting.
I'm not sure just what is happening gnostik...only that something definitely is happening, and needs clarification in the event this anomaly can be applied somehow.
I had intended to add an led today, but my motor circuit is still active, although 'charging' very slowly...now reading 8.03 vdc.
I will wait until it tops off, then add the led light to see if it will make any difference.
Next stage will be a Faraday cage test.
Both charging units were my attempts to 'split the positive'...do you know if there is any info available on the subject ?
I only read that is what he said he did...no details were given...if I had an idea of his approach it may be helpful.
Regards...