alternator to a drill motor...and hooked both to my car battery...started with 11.4 volts with the(drill motor) turning the alternator in about 3 minutes or so it was up to 12.2 volts and then there was hardly any drag on the alternator...what do you all think?does this basically prove overunity?what amperage does it take to charge a 700 amp 12v battery from 11.4 to 12.2 volts in 3 minutes...whatever that figure is and just a little less is the usables power of the setup.would a better d/c motor help,maybe a faster one or would a higher amperage alternator work better? would it run with just a big capacitor connecter between positive and negative?
Hi,
Very interesting. Would you share some more data on:
1) the alternator (AC or DC, its output power on its label)
2) the drill motor's input power on its label
3) if you drive the alternator by the drill motor without any load, what is the alternator unloaded output voltage?
Have you got any means to check the current in one of the wires going to a battery pole?
Could you test your battery with some normal load as to if is loadable normally like after a normal charging it up? I mean you could charge it up fully by this strange setup (perhaps include a series current limiting bulb to reduce the high current if any to normal charging current) and compare the battery loadability to that of a normal charging.
I have seen some Belgian/German or French patents on the same setup you describe, referred to by member LancaIV here in this forum last year or so...
Sorry for the too many questions :)
Thanks, Gyula
Quote from: gyulasun on August 20, 2008, 02:42:03 PM
Hi,
Very interesting. Would you share some more data on:
1) the alternator (AC or DC, its output power on its label)
2) the drill motor's input power on its label
3) if you drive the alternator by the drill motor without any load, what is the alternator unloaded output voltage?
1)dc alternator rated at 70 amps 12-18 volts
2)it's a 19.2 volt craftsman drill motor(drill has a pwm in it but not using it)
3)i cannot read the alternator output seperately.the difference with the load and the voltage @ 12.6(unloaded) when i first started it was 11.4(loaded)...then it came up to 12.4(loaded)...............................
that's all the info i have at this time...perhaps if i had a way to control the voltage to the alternator i could find a "sweet spot" to compromise between load and charging ???
switch also an light on (bulb) an see again waht happened.
Battery go :down or higher ??
this is the simplest test, without errors in reading instruments and meters
Pese
I hop the the bulb wil light you for more exeriments
Quote from: christo4_99 on August 20, 2008, 03:33:47 PM
...
that's all the info i have at this time...perhaps if i had a way to control the voltage to the alternator i could find a "sweet spot" to compromise between load and charging ???
Hi,
Many thanks for the infos. Yes, on finding a "sweet" spot, you could use some headlight car bulb inserted in series with the alternator wire leading towards the battery. In fact a high power rheostat (spelling?) i.e. a high power variable wire potentiometer would serve you good here but some high power bulbs (that has small DC resistance of a few Ohms only) are also good.
I agree with Pese's suggestion for placing 12V lightbulb(s) across the battery as indicator for voltage level on the battery and also serve as useful load.
Thanks, Gyula
to me it's like this:if the voltage goes up while it's running it's making excess power however miniscule it might be.this implies that the more efficient any of the components might be the excess power will go up.if a better motor was coupled to it it would make more power or if the alternator was better it would make more power.if both components were better it would make more power.
Quote from: christo4_99 on August 21, 2008, 06:45:43 AM
to me it's like this:if the voltage goes up while it's running it's making excess power however miniscule it might be.this implies that the more efficient any of the components might be the excess power will go up.if a better motor was coupled to it it would make more power or if the alternator was better it would make more power.if both components were better it would make more power.
Hi Christo4_99,
Basically you sound right but if you expect members here to say with certainty you have achieved overunity then it cannot be done with responsibilty without closing out possible pitfalls.
Batteries are strange and tricky beasts and you sure have heard about sulphations in them that gets disappear when the battery is hit by current pulses and the battery revives. And from your motor + generator plenty of pulses can hit your batteries, so one way to rule out this possibility is to run severel long term tests with your setup on charging and discharging. I do not say your batteries are sulphated and that is why you find the battery is charging (when in fact you take out energy from it) I say to make sure it is not the case...
I do think there is an anomaly that makes the battery voltage increase but without a thorough and long test runs I cannot say you have got overunity. I can only encourage you to continue testing and testing this interesting setup.
rgds, Gyula
Hi Christo4_99,
I mentioned that some patents include more or less some variants of your setup and now I found them referred to it here in this forum, in a totally different topic aspects though: http://www.overunity.com/index.php/topic,1821.msg32871.html#msg32871
The last two are German text and if you cannot read German you can get free computer translation by clicking first to the Description icon under the title of the patent, then a new window appears and click on the Translate this text icon.
I can only repeat again: after the description of your tests it does sound like you have achived overunity but to make sure about it, long and precise tests should be performed!
Thanks, Gyula
was it hoked up like that ?
without current regulator on rotor+ or on rotor- ?
If not please draw a schematic, one picture tells thousend words
wiz
Quote from: wizkycho on August 22, 2008, 07:02:38 AM
was it hoked up like that ?
yes,except for the ignition pin(on switch) and the voltage sensor wire...both hooked to positve
So does this mean you are using an alternator with a built in regulator? If that
is the case then you can let the thing run and it will cease to charge when the
battery is full up and only put out what is necessary for the motor. That is an
interesting idea. The fact that alternators for cars are very lossy far as output to
input themselves, I have a hard time seeing this work. Also, a car alternator starts
to put out usable power at around 1500 rpm, that from a rebuilder shop. That is why
I shy away for my projects.
How about you give the spec on the alternator. What car it is for and I would like
to get one and play. I have just the motor for the job.
thaelin
toyota alternator 70 amp unit from 90-94 mr2 or celica,the drill motor is from a craftsman drill 19.2 volt
This is a tough delima. There have been many instances where overunity appeared to be shown with the use of batteries. Bedini circuits constantly claim to see overunity. Problem is, if you are truely looking to get a following with the idea, you really need to eliminate the battery somehow, or add a capacitor to the circuit so you can unplug the battery. Get that done, and you will see the interest spark!
This is not a negative comment by any means, just that batteries honestly have some really funny results with many types of circuits. Unfortunately, just seeing the voltage increase in a battery, does not mean it will be there 3 hours later. It seems there are some reactions that are unknown, and in some cases, very temporary. Figure out how to eliminate that battery, and you've got something huge!
not trying to get a following...just seems like since there is an imbalanced system(alt mass larger than drill motor mass) it works...there are plenty of instances that point to overunity...but even when you find one,you move on....that's human nature...fact is,if the people with money would invest it into energy science in a big way then we would solve our problems...then once we got there,we'd move on...
if the battery vant loaded to minimum 14,2 volts - than nothing is loaded !
Now power in !!
if its ist "load" from Zero to 12,0 even 12,4 volts - than its is now poer in.
an 50wat bulb onload the battery to 0 volts in some seconds. !!
ANY loaded chargeable battery (accu) , lead , cadmium enz. must
loaded wit 20% additional voltages. Ony the its is "filled" to here capacity
G Pese
to put this in perspective...when operating in the vehicle the starter,ignition,headlights,fuel injection etc draw off the battery.when the voltage drops down because of these losses the alternator switches on to recharge the system using engine power.since the battery can become charged in the given scenario it more or less shows that all things being equal the alternator windings are moving more electrons simply because they are more massive than the windings in the drill motor.drill motors are designed to work efficiently as far as ft/lbs to make the battery last longer.alternators are designed to make up a deficit in voltage very quickly.this is a matter of engineering in my opinion.many systems including mains power are not engineered to be efficient or else we would all have a bank of batteries in our homes charging parasitically off the current surplus itself and not necessarily terminating in the batteries.the whole system is set up to waste energy and thereby get your money...lol