Vid from DadHav / John
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xBpir5azwTo
When the power from the bridge rectifiers are switched onto the input, the motor increases speed and the voltage on the power supply readout doubles. I am not claiming this is over unity but I don't know how to explain what is going on. If you have any ideas chime in.
John.
@powercat
Good work your motor looks very nice....
You can put a amp meter between power supply and the motor, then when you switch on to send energy to the source this amp meter must to show negative current.
Good Luck.
Quote from: powercat on November 11, 2009, 11:44:21 AM
Vid from DadHav / John
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xBpir5azwTo
When the power from the bridge rectifiers are switched onto the input, the motor increases speed and the voltage on the power supply readout doubles. I am not claiming this is over unity but I don't know how to explain what is going on. If you have any ideas chime in.
John.
Hi John,
MAybe two possibilites:
1) I think your motor setup and the power supply becomes an oscillator when you switch the diode bridge feedback on. If you could hook up an oscilloscope to the DC output of the power supply, you would see oscillations on the DC level line when the feedback switch is on. IF you cannot see any oscillations, then next use the scope AC coupled instead of the previous DC to be able to switch to more sensitive input ranges.
2) Well, if you cannot see any oscillations during the feedback, then the explanation may be in the power supply's inside circuit: somehow it measures the voltage that gets added to its output like in your case the diode bridge surely have an additional 20-21V output over the supply output and the meter circuit inside senses this. It should not but it may do in this case.
The best test would be you load the diode bridge output with an independent load resistor and changing its value for the optimum power match, compare the input power consumed by the motor (and the H bridge) to that of dissipated in the load. This way you can see you are under or over unity.
rgds, Gyula
Hmmm first of all I am not John
I did point this out in my first post Vid from DadHav / John
and the writing underneath the Vid that I posted was from his YouTube video description.
My apologies for any confusion caused.
cat
Ok cat, sorry for my misunderstanding.
rgds, Gyula
Hello Gyula, Cat. Thanks for showing interest in my video. You're certainly welcome to have a look at my other videos as well. I think Gyulas option #2 is probably close to what's going on. I'm not knowledgeable enough to hit the nail on the head but I can take a SWAG at it. (Sophisticated Wild Ass Guess) I think It might go like this: The output from the bridge is a few volts higher than the input voltage; For some reason there is an impedance match with this power supply that I can't seem to match with a battery or anything else; The special match allows the higher voltage from the bridge to overcharge the filter capacitors in the power supply to a higher voltage than the supply is outputting; It may be possible that part of the return is out of phase from the input pulse of the motor as well; Since the capacitor is now higher, the motor tries to use the increased voltage and does; The motor speeds up and produces yet a higher charge to the capacitor; The motor might be efficient enough to let the cycle increase rather than draw the capacitor down to the power supply voltage. OK, Just a theory. I don't think the scope will show anything across the output of the supply because of the heavy filtering. AND, the current also goes up as the process goes into acceleration. at least the power supply meter indicates this when switched to amps rather than volts. So, I don't think this is over unity but more like a special effect related to an unusual impedance anomaly. What do you think. Old Dad is full of prunes right?
But wouldn't it be cool if I could get this to work with a battery and have the extra voltage trying to charge the battery rather than the capacitor of the power supply?
PS Just a note on the efficiency of the motor: This one will run at about 200 micro amps. If you have time, take a look at the capacitor run tests. I think it's one or some of these.
http://www.youtube.com/user/DadHav#p/u/0/xBpir5azwTo
http://www.youtube.com/user/DadHav#p/u/1/FqE_mpNPIZg
http://www.youtube.com/user/DadHav#p/u/2/T5HrqoLCNCI
DadHav/John H
I think the simplest and most likely the correct explanation is that the output from your bridge when connected to the supply, is fooling the supply's output current sensing and/or voltage regulation circuitry. It is either seeing a drop in current or the voltage sense is being fooled by spikes such that the supply is cranking up the output voltage to make the "correction". I am aware that your supply is only supposed to be limited to 20V output, but it will actually be capable of more than that in order to compensate for its own output impedance and to regulate the output voltage properly with the current spec.
You did say that the supply's output current goes up in this mode of operation, so this all makes sense.
It would be great if your window motor really was adding that much power to the input, but I highly doubt it is based on what I've said above.
.99
Hi John
Thank you for responding so quickly and welcome to the forum, I think you will enjoy it here as there is a wealth of knowledge and many experienced members.
cat
Thank you for the welcome Cat. .99 Your suggestion as to what's going on may very well be correct. Just a few notes though: I have a friend that has nearly the same thing happening with a simple toy train transformer with no capability of current or voltage sensing. Also I'm not using the sensing circuits on the Lambda supply. I would really be surprised if there was 200% reserve power just to adjust for voltage or current losses as it would pertain to normal usage. I don't know. The more I think about it the more I think I would be disappointed in my power supply if it could change its mind about what I have it set to put out for voltage and all of a sudden put out twice as much as it's supposed to have the capability of. Oh, there's another thing I haven't mentioned: 42 volts wasn't the limit. I could decrease the trim resistance further and get more voltage, but I don't have heat sinks on the transistors and they where starting to heat up. Hey maybe I could get an opinion from an engineer at Lambda or something. Another interesting test would be to run a a parallel load to the motor and see what it takes to draw the voltage back down to 20 volts. Maybe thats what someone was suggesting already.
Thanks guys. I appreciate the input.
DadHav/John H
@ DadHav/John H
From my experience, a window motor shows increased efficiency when energy (back emf) is properly recovered. I have no doubts here. Actually, most if not all pulse motors will do so. Hence, a certain/reasonable increase in speed at constant voltage (constant power) is explainable. In practice, because the input power decreases when employing the recovery circuit, a slight increase of voltage can be measured, which is also normal since most power supplies shows a I-V dependence. Usually this behavior is not properly explored, understood or maybe just not reported back by some former experimenters I’ve followed; things get complicated because until motor reaches a stable point on its functioning curve, we’re dealing with a transient.
Regardless of the above, imho the voltage can not become double after connecting the recovery or the motor would fly apart given its characteristics and efficiency. Therefore, I suspect the voltmeter on the supply is tricked due to voltage spikes. The ammeter might be tricked the same way as well.
I kindly suggest repeating the experiment using several 9/12V batteries and a mini-variac to properly adjust the voltage and then to calibrate everything (DC vs AC/power supply) using the VDC-RPM curve.
Please report back if you decide to try solving the mystery and I apologies for interfering with other suggestions; I’m not an expert in this area.
Awesome built!
Best regards,
Tinu
Tinu, I'm not sure about that either. As the voltage and current reading goes up, the motor also speeds up and develops more torque. When running at it's highest level the motor is much harder to stop by grabbing the shaft, even though it is drawing only 200 ma. If I put a large capacitor across the input it will charge to to 42 volts rather quickly. I'm trying to get a schematic for the supply as well as talk to someone at Lambda. I can't try some of the other mentioned tests because this only happens with the power supply. I can test some other supplies to see if it does the same thing. We all know what an important part impedance matching plays as it pertains to Bedini patents and I think this is what I'm experiencing here. My coils are 400 turn 400 ft long so the impedance would never be close to match up with a battery, at least with respect to my understanding. I'll continue figuring out whats going on or to get the setup to work with a battery but I have to admit I'm tiring out a little bit and feel a need to build something else while giving this more thought.
John
Hi John,
Thanks for coming to this forum and adding further details on your findings.
Normally power supplies do not like loads like a pulse motor and they can be especially sensitive to inductive current loads that appear and disappear suddenly.
I understand you start tiring out a little but maybe you could do a simple test.
It needs a diode like 1N4001 or similar normal rectifier diode (no need for a fast one or for a Schottky type but of course they are also ok if they have a decent 50-60V reverse voltage rating and you have just like that in your precious 'junkbox').
You could connect this diode in series with the positive output of your power supply, its anode would go to the + output and its cathode would go to your + wire of the motor so that when you run the motor without the feedback, it would work as usual, the only loss being the forward voltage drop across the diode (0.7V for an Si diode).
Now if you switch on the feedback, this diode will surely block any DC voltage that is higher than the supply output (less the 0.7V), and the inside control loop or whatever circuit in the power supply will not be fooled.
And the increased supply voltage (if manifest any) AFTER the diode that feeds the motor may still get added to that 20V value.
I hope it is understandable what I suggest: with the series diode you can simply separate the two voltages; the one coming out from the power supply and the one you feed back to it from the diode bridge.
rgds, Gyula
Gyula, I wish I'd thought of that myself. It sounds like a simple quick test that will show us something. I have a shoe box full of diodes. Hmm as I think about that further, it might present a load on the motor that will just slow it down. Well who knows, we'll see. I'm slightly out of town at this moment enjoying a visit from my sister and brother-in-law. I will however be traveling back and forth from our cottage to home for mail. I should have time this week to try a few things. I really appreciate the ideas. You never know. Sometimes you might only be missing success by the smallest amount of help or advice.
Take Care
John
Hi John,
Yes it may present a load to your motor because whenever the voltage level tends to be higher on the + motor wire than the output of supply voltage, the series diode will block the supply voltage and the motor current will load the diode bridge's output, a situation a snake wishes to byte its own tail... ;)
rgds, Gyula
I'll keep my snake byte solution very close at hand. (The current limiting knob on the supply)
Cheers
John
Quote from: gyulasun on November 22, 2009, 10:19:35 AM
Hi John,
Yes it may present a load to your motor because whenever the voltage level tends to be higher on the + motor wire than the output of supply voltage, the series diode will block the supply voltage and the motor current will load the diode bridge's output, a situation a snake wishes to byte its own tail... ;)
rgds, Gyula
Good suggestion with the diode Gyula, however I'm not sure I agree with the above quote, or maybe don't understand what you are saying exactly.
There should be no load on the motor even if its output voltage at the bridge is higher than 20V.
.99
@.99
On load I mean the window motor's own current consumption, taken normally from the 21V supply, about a few hundred microamper as John said earlier.
No mechanical load on the shaft of the motor.
And in case the output voltage feedback from the bridge output to the positive supply wire of the motor is on and if this tends to increase the supply voltage above the 21V, then the diode blocks this extra voltage getting back into the power supply circuits and the motor will try to run faster. However this faster run surely increases its own current consumption so this fact will normally involve the reducement of the output voltage from the diode bridge because the source (in this case the diode output) gets its juice from the same "wire" it feeds.
Normally for such feedback to work safely in case of any overunity I would normally use a decent DC-DC converter that has ground independent in/out terminals and that has a stabilised output voltage. Such converters has +90% efficiency so a circuit with a COP of 1.1 or say 1.2 couls surely be looped back by such converter.
Maybe I answered your question. :)
rgds, Gyula
Guys. I have another idea that I can't try until I get home again but: If the effect I'm seeing is completely dependent on the impedance matching between the supply and the motor coils, would it be possible to put 2 LAB batteries in series with the power supply, leaving the power supply set at zero volts. Is it possible the circuit would run and charge the filters in the power supply? Is it possible the impedance would stay the same with the power supply unplugged? If this should happen to work it would prove that a substitute input circuit could be made to support the anomaly shown in the video but this time using a battery that might except a charge from the setup. Full of prunes again right?
John
I think these regulated power supplies are not designed to directly operate inductive motor devices.
The timing is interfering with the power supplies regulator circuit and causing the supply to increase the output.
If this is not the case then the power supply would still continue to supply only the 20v and the motor would actually be supplying it's own power at 40v.
Just decouple the power supply with a large capacitor connected to the power supply and feed the motor through a diode.
This would allow the power supply to see only the voltage on the capacitor and would then show only the actual 20v supply.
If the motor was operating as it's own supply, then this should still occur and it would still accelerate up and produce 40v.
Lumen. When you put it that way it does certainly sound to good to be true. Maybe I don't understand what you recommend. I can put a large cap on the output of the PS but once I add the diode it's likely the power supply wouldn't go up capacitor or not right? Maybe I don't picture what you say.
John
Yes, It is likely the power supply would not increase in voltage but if the motor was indeed producing an increase in voltage, then it should still show up on the point just after the diode.
In fact you could add another capacitor at this point to create a good point to measure the real voltage generated from the motor.
Thanks Lumen. That's what I figured you where saying. I'm just not sure how the motor will act with the diode. I'll try it as soon as I can. I just received a schematic for the power supply. I can see right away from the block diagram there is sophisticated voltage and sensing on the output circuit. There may be some trickery going on here, but at least it's not from me.
John
Quote from: DadHav on November 22, 2009, 11:40:50 AM
Guys. I have another idea that I can't try until I get home again but: If the effect I'm seeing is completely dependent on the impedance matching between the supply and the motor coils, would it be possible to put 2 LAB batteries in series with the power supply, leaving the power supply set at zero volts. Is it possible the circuit would run and charge the filters in the power supply? Is it possible the impedance would stay the same with the power supply unplugged? If this should happen to work it would prove that a substitute input circuit could be made to support the anomaly shown in the video but this time using a battery that might except a charge from the setup. Full of prunes again right?
John
Hi John,
Two comments:
1) the effect i.e. the voltage and current increase you experience does not really depend on the impedance match between the supply and motor coils.
We should study the circuit schematics of your PS and then we could make further conclusions on the effect, seeing the overall circuit what is created when you connect the bridge output to the PS output.
What you suggest to use two series batteries in series with the zero volt output PS is dangerous, you may destroy your PS inside circuits. I would not do such without knowing the inner circuits of the PS.
2) when your PS is unplugged it may or may not have the same output impedance, it all depends the inside circuits (is it a linear or a switch mode supply, in case of the latter the unplugged output impedance may
approch that of the operating PS much better than in the first case.
Lumen basically suggest the same diode separation I did, I agree with his drawing, the motor positive wire is to be connected to the diode's cathode point and he shows a puffer capacitor there too, it seems useful to filter the output of your full wave diode bridge.
rgds, Gyula
Guyula. yes, I recognized your suggestion with the added capacitor from Lumen. Also noted on the power supply warning. You're right. I would be disappointed if I damaged it. I just got the schematics from a friend I can't attach the whole manual because it's 1400KB and I think it's to big to be allowed. I've attached the schematic pages only in case anyone wanted to see them.
Thanks again.
John
ok, John tomorrow will have more time to have a look at the schematics.
I still say though that a direct connection of a circuit output back to its input is normally not recommended, some means of isolation (like a transformer in case of the switch mode PS) is needed unless it is inherent in the circuit.
rgds, Gyula
thank you Gyula. Please take your time I'm so tied up with company that I won't have time myself for a while.
John
Quote from: DadHav on November 22, 2009, 12:43:22 PM
Lumen. When you put it that way it does certainly sound to good to be true. Maybe I don't understand what you recommend. I can put a large cap on the output of the PS but once I add the diode it's likely the power supply wouldn't go up capacitor or not right? Maybe I don't picture what you say.
John
Perhaps you could do the same test with current as you do with voltage?
Hi all
Been thinking and Lumen is correct. The caps and diode will isolate the pulses from getting back to the PS. Then you measure the second cap with a meter.
Thing is, if the motor is putting out like it seems, depending on the second cap size, the motor may just spin to oblivion, due to the lack of PS limitations to incoming power. Have you tried a battery on the motor? That would solve a lot of questions here, maybe.
Very nice motor by the way
Magluvin
Thank you Magluvin. The motor did turn out to be a little sweetheart. I have another about half the size also. I have a video of it at 20,000 rpm's but it can do more. I'm afraid of the magnets dislodging. Yes the battery would solve a lot of problems, but I haven't been able to get the same effect with a battery. That's why I keep mentioning impedance. This may not apply but something is going on with the supply circuit. I'll be home in a few days and I'll try some of the things you are suggesting here and we'll see what happens.
John
Hey Dadhave
Well being that you say it doesnt give you the effect with the battery, that got me thinking that the back emf pulses, probably not the consumption pulses, are causing the power supply to become inaccurate at regulating. One test you can try is to use one of those a/c outlet power meters on the input of the power supply to see if the PS consumption increases when the motor goes into overdrive when you hit the turbo switch. =] That would give a definite answer to what is going on. To go through that schematic to figure out PS operation wont be necessary.
Also, lets say you use Lumens cap diode setup on a battery, having the cap closest to the motor a large value, then run it, with the turbo switch Off (back charge switch, I like turbo switch for your situation) to get it running, then when you hit the switch, if the motor is back charging like it seems, the battery would not be a load on the back charge and the cap will accept the back charge easier and it should speed up, only if this is what is really happening.
Other than that, the PS is being fooled into stepping up the voltage due to the back charge pulses. Trying a large cap on the power input of the motor will lower the magnitude of the back pulses also, and the motor wont go into overdrive like you show, but maybe some, if the PS IS being fooled into putting out more than it should.
These tests should be easy and conclusive.
Magluvin
Hi John,
I have had a look at the PS schematics. It is a decent linear PS with pass transistors and control + reference circuits as such linear PSs have been designed for long, before the switched mode PS era. It has a separate board for the 3 digit digital panel meter and this senses the output voltage directly between the + and - ports, current is sensed by watching the voltage drop across a series shunt resistor. This digital meter works like a DMM (digital multimeter) except it has a maximum input voltage range of 50-60V or so.
So this built in digital meter is able to measure the voltage level whatever is either set by the front panel control or as in your case the PS output + your motor combination makes the output voltage level increase up to 41-42V and the meter also shows that.
I do not recommend any tests which would connect series batteries onto the output of this PS, even if the PS were unplugged. This is true for any such PSs, damage can easily occur in the inside circuits, especially when an inductive load like your motor can 'bang' the output ports with inductive spikes due to the switching.
Would like to ask if your motor circuit is a normal H bridge made with MOSFET or bipolar transistor switches? and where the diode bridge is exactly connected, together with your feedback switch, if you happen to have a rough schematic drawing, it could be of further help.
rgds, Gyula
EDIT: Just read what Magluvin wrote and I fully agree with him.
Gyula. I would like to thank you and everyone else who has commented on the video. I have had time to try some of the suggestions and have to agree that the power supply is causing the voltage increase due to the unusual characteristics of the motor and circuit. After installing capacitors and the diode the motor acted normal as everyone was expecting. I'm sorry for taking up so much of everyones time, but am happy to have met some helpful interested people here. I probably should get the video off of the Tube. Maybe I'll hang around a little bit to see what I might learn.
Oh sorry, You asked about the circuit. This is the typical Bedini Full Wave Sequential Bipolar Circuit that is published most everywhere.
DadHav/John H
Dear John,
thanks for reporting back.
Would you mind confirming whether the DC voltage across the second capacitor after the diode (lumen indicated it as an optional cap in his drawing) increases with your switch on?
This would make your test the most informative and complete.
Thanks, Gyula
hey Dadhav
Actually maybe keep the vid up and make a vid of the correction for others to learn from. It would be interesting to see the measurement of the capacitor with the turbo switch on/off. The pulses that were getting back to the PS would show up in the cap.
What were the values of the caps you used?
Also, was the window motor a bifilar with the pickup coil? Still like that motor. =]
Mags
Also to show if there is a difference in current output from the PS with the switch on and off.
Mags
OK Guys. Let me fill you in on what tests I made. I have a few days to experiment before leaving again. I put a 37,000 mfd cap across the power supply terminals. I have a 1 amp diode between the supply and the motor circuit on the plus side. I have a 37,000 mfd 40 volt cap across the inputs of the circuit boare after the diode.
The circuit is the standard full wave sequential bipolar. only one trigger is being used the other is not connected. There is a switch on the board to return the voltage from the bridge back to the input or switch it to an external plug. the motor is 400 ft 400 turns trifiler; two triggers with #32 and one power coil #23, six magnets; two pound steel rotor.
OK with the diode in the circuit the motor runs more like it was on a battery. Under normal running conditions the the motor likes 20 -40 ma while at the 20 volt range. If I tune the circuit to run at 100 - 200 ma the motor has surprising torque.
First test: Power supply voltage 20 v @ 20 ma; Motor RPM=1750; Voltage on PS cap=20 volts; Voltage on circuit input cap=19.75 (normal IMO) Note the return switch is in the external position. A 37,000 mfd cap on the external output charges to 50 volts with some authority considering only drawing 20 ma; a 1.0 mfd 200 volt cap will charge to 75 volts instantly.
Second test: I disconnected the capacitor on the input of the circuit board after the diode; The RPM increased to 2112 RPM; The voltage on the power supply cap was 20 volts; the current draw went to 30 ma; The voltage measurement after the diode was 35.7 volts.
Third test: I placed the 1.0 mfd cap after the diode across the circuit board input; The motor increased in speed to 2670 RPM; the capacitor on the power supply was 20 volts; the current went to 40 ma on the power supply.
The motor in this combination ran smoother than ever before. It also ran from the capacitor on the power supply for a few minutes before stopping when the supply was turned off. I tried the same tests on a different make supply and they came out the same, although I didn't check the ma draw yet while on another sorce.
Maybe a few scope shots will be helpful. I haven't tried a picture yet. Let's see what happens. In case they don't work, what I saw was 20 volts dead solid before the diode, but after the diode there was quite a nice signal going an additional 30 to 40 volts above the 20 volt base line. This must have been what was getting back into the power supply to cause the anomaly. The pattern changed considerably with the small capacitor on it.
Very unusual scopeshots .
The drop time seems to be going backwards . And what is that double bump ?
Keep in mind the scope is on the input side of the full wave circuit. Are you thinking about an h wave like the SSG circuit?
John
Hi John,
Many thanks for performing and sharing these tests. I do think now that the PS you use was malfunctioning whenever the output pulses or the rest of them via the diode bridge managed to foul the control circuits of the PS (when your turbo switch was on) and this manifested in an increased output voltage.
And Magluvin was right in saying the back emf (and if I may add the induced voltages at the switch off instants) were the main cause of the output pulses and these went back into the PS unavoidably via the switch. The series diode (a one way switch) blocks the return of the pulses to the PS or any other source. In case of operating the motor from a battery, there is no control circuit in it, so no problem from the created pulses, they dissipate in the battery.
I would ask and suggest two things. In your test #1 with either the 37000uF or 1uF capacitor on the external output (turbo switch is off), what happens to the motor 20mA running current when you place a few kiloOhm resistor across the external output as a load? Will the overall 20mA motor current change and in what direction?
My suggestion would be to your test #3 when you found that with only a 1uF capacitor after the diode you got the biggest rpm and smooth operation. I think you could experiment here with a capacitor bank to find the "sweet" point i.e. the best cap value for the whole setup. This would involve a certain resonance case and a match between the rpm and your coil + best capacitor parallel resonant circuit combination. This sounds like Hector's rotoverter circuit and I think it would be like that. The only drawback is when you load the motor shaft the resonant condition detunes and it ought to be retuned to the load's need again.
Thanks, Gyula
Quote from: DadHav on November 28, 2009, 04:53:01 PM
OK Guys. Let me fill you in on what tests I made. I have a few days to experiment before leaving again. I put a 37,000 mfd cap across the power supply terminals. I have a 1 amp diode between the supply and the motor circuit on the plus side. I have a 37,000 mfd 40 volt cap across the inputs of the circuit boare after the diode.
The circuit is the standard full wave sequential bipolar. only one trigger is being used the other is not connected. There is a switch on the board to return the voltage from the bridge back to the input or switch it to an external plug. the motor is 400 ft 400 turns trifiler; two triggers with #32 and one power coil #23, six magnets; two pound steel rotor.
OK with the diode in the circuit the motor runs more like it was on a battery. Under normal running conditions the the motor likes 20 -40 ma while at the 20 volt range. If I tune the circuit to run at 100 - 200 ma the motor has surprising torque.
First test: Power supply voltage 20 v @ 20 ma; Motor RPM=1750; Voltage on PS cap=20 volts; Voltage on circuit input cap=19.75 (normal IMO) Note the return switch is in the external position. A 37,000 mfd cap on the external output charges to 50 volts with some authority considering only drawing 20 ma; a 1.0 mfd 200 volt cap will charge to 75 volts instantly.
Second test: I disconnected the capacitor on the input of the circuit board after the diode; The RPM increased to 2112 RPM; The voltage on the power supply cap was 20 volts; the current draw went to 30 ma; The voltage measurement after the diode was 35.7 volts.
Third test: I placed the 1.0 mfd cap after the diode across the circuit board input; The motor increased in speed to 2670 RPM; the capacitor on the power supply was 20 volts; the current went to 40 ma on the power supply.
The motor in this combination ran smoother than ever before. It also ran from the capacitor on the power supply for a few minutes before stopping when the supply was turned off. I tried the same tests on a different make supply and they came out the same, although I didn't check the ma draw yet while on another sorce.
Maybe a few scope shots will be helpful. I haven't tried a picture yet. Let's see what happens. In case they don't work, what I saw was 20 volts dead solid before the diode, but after the diode there was quite a nice signal going an additional 30 to 40 volts above the 20 volt base line. This must have been what was getting back into the power supply to cause the anomaly. The pattern changed considerably with the small capacitor on it.
Ok guys, Just uploaded a vid with a funtional 2nd stage running off of the 1st stage bemf, and charging an old 12v 7ah bat off of the 2nd stage bemf.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXxvAQ_mdUk
I am letting the battery charge to see where it comes up to.
I am very happy with this setup. =]
Magluvin