Hello everyone - I've been looking around here for a
while now and must admit it is very interesting!
I've been studying this diagram-schematic, and without entering
into a complex range of tests and whatnot would simply like to
build it the way it appears in the below pic (now a link). While in
the process of doing so, I will of course document everything and
compose a Guide that may be followed with success by anyone
with the desire and parts.
I am not totally versed in the language of electronics, but have an
eye for detail and a willingness to learn. My current range of
questions will be posed in a standard format below.
I'm glad to be here, and hope to construct many projects in my stay!
http://www.frontiernet.net/~gopatrope/OverUnity/tesla-switch-transformers.jpg (http://www.frontiernet.net/~gopatrope/OverUnity/tesla-switch-transformers.jpg)
Q's
1) The Timer Input - I realize there are solid-state timers as well
as mechanical timers. This project will utililze a solid state timer, but
as one may observe, this component is missing. I've got some other
diagrams laying around that show how to construct one, but even
still I'm not sure about how it would be attached.
2) I would like to embed photos in this thread, but it doesn't
seem to let me with the correct img tags... ??
3) The transformers - I was trying to source these, and didn't come up
with squat. There must be something I don't know about them, like are
they handmade, or out of production?
Quote from: geotron on March 05, 2010, 01:23:11 AM
Hello everyone - I've been looking around here for a
while now and must admit it is very interesting!
I've been studying this diagram-schematic, and without entering
into a complex range of tests and whatnot would simply like to
build it the way it appears in the below pic (now a link). While in
the process of doing so, I will of course document everything and
compose a Guide that may be followed with success by anyone
with the desire and parts.
I am not totally versed in the language of electronics, but have an
eye for detail and a willingness to learn. My current range of
questions will be posed in a standard format below.
I'm glad to be here, and hope to construct many projects in my stay!
http://www.frontiernet.net/~gopatrope/OverUnity/tesla-switch-transformers.jpg (http://www.frontiernet.net/~gopatrope/OverUnity/tesla-switch-transformers.jpg)
Q's
1) The Timer Input - I realize there are solid-state timers as well
as mechanical timers. This project will utililze a solid state timer, but
as one may observe, this component is missing. I've got some other
diagrams laying around that show how to construct one, but even
still I'm not sure about how it would be attached.
2) I would like to embed photos in this thread, but it doesn't
seem to let me with the correct img tags... ??
3) The transformers - I was trying to source these, and didn't come up
with squat. There must be something I don't know about them, like are
they handmade, or out of production?
Hi Geotron:
Welcome to this site, you'll find plenty here to keep your mind occupied and hands busy with projects. Hmmnn,I haven't studied the circuit in any detail but it is certainly unusual and interesting, so at some stage I will Analise it it in more detail when I get more time. The transformers are typically valve type audio output transformers I would guess as 8 ohms was a standard speaker matching impedance for the secondary. The primary matched the higher output impedance of the valve anode circuit. (Note valve... UK term, tube US term) Valve equipment was very popular many years ago. Old valve radio's may be the best source for them. As for a timer circuit I recommend using a 555 IC. Plenty of information available and easy to construct... build one that allows a good variable frequency range and mark/space ratio. A timer of this nature will prove most usefull for many other projects too. The 555 will work on various supply voltages also. This circuit operates at low frequencies i would say as the transformers will be laminated core devices.
BTW who put the circuit together as drawn and presented in the posting?
Have fun... Kind regards
Hi Folks,
The circuit in question came from John Bedini (1984 era), see Page 10 in the PDF file here: http://www.scene.org/~esa/merlib/Mueller.pdf
Also, you can find useful explanations on 1, 2, 3 and 4 battery systems here:
http://www.freeenergynews.com/Directory/Electromagnetic/TeslaSwitch/Tesla_Battery_Switch_PGFED.pdf
However see Peter Lindemann explanations in this Forum in his Reply#16 and #18:
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/962-use-tesla-switch.html
This latter link started in August, 2007. John Bedini appeared in it last November too, you may wish to read him too from Reply#447:
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/962-use-tesla-switch-15.html
Regards, Gyula
The transformer in question is a standard audio transformer that can be found at Radio Shack here in the US I bought several of these recently for another project, they were like $3.00 USD if I recall
Quote from: gyulasun on March 05, 2010, 06:01:37 AM
Hi Folks,
The circuit in question came from John Bedini (1984 era), see Page 10 in the PDF file here: http://www.scene.org/~esa/merlib/Mueller.pdf
Also, you can find useful explanations on 1, 2, 3 and 4 battery systems here:
http://www.freeenergynews.com/Directory/Electromagnetic/TeslaSwitch/Tesla_Battery_Switch_PGFED.pdf
However see Peter Lindemann explanations in this Forum in his Reply#16 and #18:
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/962-use-tesla-switch.html
This latter link started in August, 2007. John Bedini appeared in it last November too, you may wish to read him too from Reply#447:
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/962-use-tesla-switch-15.html
Regards, Gyula
Hi Gyula,
Thanks for putting up these links they make very interesting reading and provide a sound understanding of the schematic in question. Regards
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/962-use-tesla-switch.html
Dr.Lindemann states in reply #2 that the "SG 1524 dual flip-flop"
timer was used. How does this one differ from a 555 IC?
Also, the diagram I've attached has me curious as well.
I haven't much clue on how these work - battery powered?
----------------------------------------------------------
Well I guess that besides the various component parts for this
project, the only things I will need to source are -
1) A suitable board to solder things onto.
2) A test meter
3) Soldering Wire
4) A set of four 12v batteries
5) High-Voltage Cables
Additionally I am open to suggestion in this area.
I've had plenty of experience working with metal in a
welding fabrication environment, so perhaps some of it
will bleed through into my work here.
I was kind of thinking that to start out with, perhaps
a set of rechargeable NiMH AA batteries might simplify
things a little... although I have no idea how this
might change my set of required component parts - besides
maybe having smaller diodes.
My plan will remain the same throughout to precicely
duplicate the schematic as presented... After which
providing it works (which I don't much doubt), I will
likely be in a much better position to handle the
construction of different models without so many
questions.
Here's a nice analog one I'm considering...
Perhaps small individual meters would
prove to be of unique convenience. I know
I've seen them somewhere...
I see that this might be something I could wire up
by myself. If so, I may just forgoe ordering one. (edit: make that six)
A local source would be nice - are these commonly found in
at audio shops?
Hi Geotron,
Quote from: geotron on March 05, 2010, 10:08:12 PM
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/962-use-tesla-switch.html
Dr.Lindemann states in reply #2 that the "SG 1524 dual flip-flop"
timer was used. How does this one differ from a 555 IC?
Here you can see SG3524 incl SG1524 and 2524) data sheets, they are still available.
http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets_pdf/S/G/3/5/SG3524.shtml
The type number difference denotes commercial, industrial (temperature) ranges, no problem for tinkering, you can use SG3524 as the cheapest type, most component sales have them like farnell.com digikey.com futurlec.com etc
I do not think you would need to replace the SG3524 with a 555 timer, the former is available for $ 2-3 apice.
Quote
Also, the diagram I've attached has me curious as well.
I haven't much clue on how these work - battery powered?
The CD4011 is a quad CMOS NAND gate and a simply RC oscillator is formed with it, the oscillator frequency is adjustable by the potmeter. Yes it needs a DC voltage source like a battery or a small power supply like a wall-plug-in with DC output voltage of 8-12V, depends on the relay coil too.
The MC7805 is a DC voltage stabilizer with a fixed 5V output, the CD4011 is fed by it, helps stabilize the RC oscillator frequency vs input DC voltage fluctuations.
Quote
I was kind of thinking that to start out with, perhaps
a set of rechargeable NiMH AA batteries might simplify
things a little... although I have no idea how this
might change my set of required component parts - besides
maybe having smaller diodes.
My plan will remain the same throughout to precicely
duplicate the schematic as presented... After which
providing it works (which I don't much doubt), I will
likely be in a much better position to handle the
construction of different models without so many
questions.
Well, regarding the four battery type I do not know if NiMH is ok or not, in 1984 the used types must have been lead acid batteries. The diode type surely depends on the currents involved and the currents depend on the battery AmperHour capacity first, this is the main focus with diodes (and cables). No much need for HV cables, rather for high cross section area ones between the batteries but as I indicated it all depends on AmperHour capacity.
Re on you analog multimeter, it seems ok and it is able to measure DC (and probably AC) currents too.
rgds, Gyula
@geotron,
All the parts needed to build a close replica of the Tesla Switch can be bought from:
http://www2.mouser.com/Home.aspx
Here is the hard to find parts:
Mouser No: 511-SG3524N
Mfr. #: SG3524N
Manufacturer: STMicroelectronics
Desc.: Voltage Mode PWM Controllers Regulated Volt Mode
Mouser No: 863-MR852G
Mfr. #: MR852G
Manufacturer: ON Semiconductor
Desc.: Rectifiers 200V 3A Fast
Mouser No: 42TL013-RC
Mfr. #: 42TL013-RC
Manufacturer: Xicon
Desc.: Audio & Signal Transformers XFMR 1KCT/8CT
Attached is the circuit that Mr. Bedini and Mr. Brandt made back in August 1984.
@gyulasun,
I think Mr. Bedini did use NiCad AA batteries for the "Sigar box" test circuit.
Regards,
Groundloop.
Groundloop,
Thanks for the info, I was 'blind' and did not notice the 5V AA NiMH battery label written in the same schematic I also referred to in my first answer above in this thread.
There is another issue you may be able to comment, that is the pin numbering of the SG3524 in the schematic: if you take a look at the schematic you uploaded, then the pins start from the upper left corner of the IC symbol as 1, and downwards as 2 and then comes a 9? I cannot make it out as a 3 as it should be if it were in an increasing order.
Pin 9 is the Compensation output and pin 3 would be the oscillator output which latter has no much sense in this circuit's case but there is sense for the compensation with the RC members tied to pin 9 as shown.
So I think the third pin under the 1st on the left side is really pin 9 and not a misprint. Agree?
Thanks, Gyula
@gyulasun,
Attached is a crop from my Tesla switch project. I think I have got
the correct pin outs. I think the biggest problem is to get the audio
transformers orientated the correct way. The 1K impedance must be
between the base and emitter and the 8 Ohm impedance out to the IC.
But what ways must the transformer "dots" be orientated?
Here is a link to my Tesla project (zipped file with all documentation):
http://home.no/ufoufoufoufo/
plus images of the circuit drawing and pcb.
I have not started to build this yet, need to know if I got the transformers the right
way around first.
Groundloop.
Hi Groundloop,
I agree, your IC pin outs are correctly connected.
And I think also your present connection for the transformer pins are
also correct. Here is a data sheet for the 42TL013 center tapped audio
transformers: http://www.dspradio.org/files/42TL013-RC.pdf
It shows a phase reversal between primary-secondary and if you connect the dotted pin 4 of its secondary directly to pin 14 of the SG3524 and the signal waveform at the IC pin 14 ,say, goes positive, with respect to transformer pin 6 which is AC grounded via C8, then the transformer pin 1 on the primary side (also dotted) is correctly connected to the base of the npn switching transistor to open it with the positive pulse with respect to primary pin 3, connected to the emitter.
Regarding the other emitter output of the IC, pin 11, it also seems correctly connected but you used the undotted trafo pins, this is not a problem of course.
I believe the rule would be: if a dotted secondary trafo pin goes to IC output pins 11 or 14, then the dotted primary pin of the trafo should go to the base of the npn transistor and the same is true for the undotted secondary pin if you choose that way.
I did not check your printed circuit board wrt the transformer connection but the schematic only.
Hopefully all the transformer pinouts are uniformly manufactured.
rgds, Gyula
@gyulasun,
Thanks for taking time to check my circuit drawing and also for the data sheet link.
I have checked that the pcb is correct vs. the circuit drawing. So now I will order
some pcbs and parts to this project. I have designed the pcb to fit inside a Hammon 1455L1601
metal box.
Thanks,
Groundloop.
Concerning the 1N914 rectifier diodes, GroundLoop - I see
the one you have listed is a 200V 3A 300ns, while the specs for
the 1N914 are 100V 4A 4ns.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=1N914virtualkey51210000virtualkey512-1N914
#######################################
I've sourced the 1000MF capacitors at a few different
stores, and have found quite a price range to choose
from. At Ralph's they've got 1000MF 50V Aluminum ones
for 1.66USD with +/-20% tolerance....
http://www.ralphselectronics.com/ProductDetails.aspx?itemnumber=SPRA-516D108M050QS6A&source=googleps
While at AllElectronics.com they've got something
by the name of '1000MFD 50V Radial' with no additional
information - http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/1000R50/1000MFD/50V-RADIAL/1.html
Groundloop - I see that your capacitors are labeled with
the uF designation Vs. MF - are these two designations interchangeable?
###########################################################
Additionally I will need a board for all of these things to
reside on, and was considering the selection over at AllElectronics.com
again. They've got a small range of different sizes to choose from,
most being about 6 x 4in -
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/category/455/Perf-Boards/1.html
Would one of these provide enough space by itself for the
Tesla Switch circuitry and Timer, or should I get a smaller
board as well for the latter?
I still haven't drawn out the timer schematic, so over the next
day or two I'll be finishing that. My work will result completely from
drawings made by hand, so as to avoid any guesswork.
Groundloop - in the original schematic from my first post, there
is a single connection from the Timer into the first series of
rectifier/transformer/transistor apparatus, while in the version
you have posted with the addition of the SG3524 this is not the
case. Forgive my ignorance, but I must ask why...
@geotron,
I have tried to use the same component types as Mr. Bedini did use in his circuit. That is the
reason for using the MR852 diodes. The circuit drawing from Mr. Bedini did not say what type
of diodes that was used in the output rectify part of the circuit so my thinking was like this;
If the MR852 is fast enough for the circuit then the same diodes must be fast enough for
the rectify part also.
The mF is often used to label a capacitor as micro Farad, I use the uF label and it is the same.
If you want one of my printed circuit boards then you can have one for free. I will get the
boards in two weeks time. (Gyulasun if you want a free pcb also, let me know.)
The circuit drawing I posted is made by Mr. Bedini and Mr. Brandt. It was published in a pdf
document. My circuit drawing is a direct copy of that document. My goal is to try to replicate
the Bedini circuit as close to the original as possible. I have built and tested other variants of
the Tesla switch and they all have one thing in common, they did not work. So this time I will
stick to the Bedini circuit because I think that this is the right thing to do.
Groundloop.
What a day! Transistors, transformers, diodes and
capacitors... Here is my current progress. I'm going
to see how much of it I can source locally -
In case anyone has an assembled version of this
circuit, a catalog framed photograph would hit the
spot, but if not I guess I'll find out soon enough.
~ Thanks for the awesome help so far everyone ~
I'm currently in the process of figuring out how to
connect the SG3594 in a proper fashion to the timer
input lead... a bit confusing - my best guess so far
is pin #7.
Jou can Proper configure the IC as in PAGE 10 of linked PDF (this book)
BUT YOU WILL FORGET ALL NOW+
Read the following:
G.P.
-------------------------------
pleas forget all this nonsense
If follow all this "s named" kromrey bedini circuit.s
And IF I SEE ONLY this circuit here in Overunity.com
-i am surprized, that the folks will follow this.
This can not work. If cou see the "electrical Parametere
and use of components. i can not work.
I am no looking the SOURCE of "ONE of this "NONSENS",
and you can -also- downoard this BOOK FREE here.
Mueller.pdf ! - that say all (?)
http://www.scene.org/~esa/merlib/Mueller.pdf
If you see to page 4.
ERRORS made in the showned Polarity of Diodes+
Page12
Is is not possibel that Collector to battery flow 4 Amp
and from Emitter to (another Battery 5 Amp !!
(It can only flow same curret - at same time this way!)
On Page 10 you see the same Circuit (fully connected
with driver IC) with 2N3055H (Hometaxial Typ of 2N3055 made
by RCA (and Siemens) - made 20 years ago-
Page 15 same Circuit with MJ802 (for more Amp).-
Ypu can also use 2 or 3 2N3055 in parallel.
BUT This basic Circuit can NEVER WORK.
If you think only that the bases of this
transistors MUST BE driven with about 5 to 10 Amp
POWER (with about 3Volt peaks), you will ask you
-Can the IC this do ? I will not open all this papers.
If you see that driver transoformers are used
8 Ohm to 1000 Ohm. (From transistor radio ?) you must
"scratich you head because you need mor than 100 time
more current to driving the base of all transitors !!
(you have seen th "flyback diodes 1n914 ? =
that are fpr about 200ma workable!)
- So you must "turn" the transformer ???
The the current , is OK BUT you need 100 time mor
voltage to the input of the transformers (time 6!)
that say 100 x6 for 3 Volt this is more than 1000volts
FORGET to do this.
IF YOU WILL TRY, the SYSTEM of this Circuit. MAKE FIRST
the SIMPLY USE with RELAIS.
Use 3 pcs 30 to 100Amp Relais (Switch) (or all in one)
an connect THIS like in Page 14 (Draw.2)
So you have an fine circuit WITHOUT all the LOSSES.
in Transitors an Diodes. that are OVER 3 Volts in this
Semiconductor Circuits, that are ONLY USED, to
"save/replace" the Relais !!
You can now SWITCH "by hand" this circuit with 3 to 5 time
WITH normal breaker (unprofessionally" by hand.
AND NOW follow with voltage-test instruments . IF YOU CAN FIND ANY
FREE POWER that come INTO the batteries !!!
Only IF you find them ... than you can think about an
"Automatic" that can "replace your hand"..
"THINK SIMPLY" , and test "Simply" before you will construct
sucht "nonsens" that is written to do "instructable work",
that you will not mor work longer with "free - overunity - ideas"
And all this "not to understand writings" that follow from page
17 to 33 , you must not try to understand. THAT say nothing over
all this errors that is made also in ALL pages before.
Sorry my english, dont know the fully volume of usable words,
but i think you will find my meaning.
Gustav Pesé
http://www.scene.org/~esa/merlib/Mueller.pdf
---------------------------------
Some links in german and englisch
tha i have collected since 2002 you
find here
www.alt-nrg.de/pppp/
GP
@Groundloop
Thank you very much for offering the PCB but I do not need it.
@geotron
Quote from: geotron on March 06, 2010, 09:50:34 PM
Concerning the 1N914 rectifier diodes, GroundLoop - I see
the one you have listed is a 200V 3A 300ns, while the specs for
the 1N914 are 100V 4A 4ns.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=1N914virtualkey51210000virtualkey512-1N914
Though Groundloop answered your diode question, I refer only to a mistype: the 1N914 diode does not have 4A, only 0.2A continuos forward current. The 4A is the max surge current, and for the MR852 the 3A is the continuos forward current and it has 100A max surge current, ok?
Quote
Additionally I will need a board for all of these things to
reside on, and was considering the selection over at AllElectronics.com
again. They've got a small range of different sizes to choose from,
most being about 6 x 4in -
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/category/455/Perf-Boards/1.html
Would one of these provide enough space by itself for the
Tesla Switch circuitry and Timer, or should I get a smaller
board as well for the latter?
I think Groundloop also offered to you a free PCB? It is true it covers the schematic in Page 10 here http://www.scene.org/~esa/merlib/Mueller.pdf but Groundloop also precisely has given the schematic on his own url if you have seen it? This answers your Pin 7 question of the SG3524 how to connect it to the timer: no need for figuring it out because it is included in the schematic by Groundloop or by Page 10 link. (Otherwise Pin 7 would be a wrong choice because it needs the timing capacitor to adjust the frequency. See Page 2 in this data sheet for the SG3524:
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/texasinstruments/sg3524.pdf and one possible output from the SG3524 to the Tesla switch input would be Pin 14, your top left hookup point. But this would involve a 6th hookup point on the timer: it is Pin 8 of the SG3524, the negative ground, is to be connected to the ground point of the Tesla switch circuit. (Any output pulse from the timer circuit comes out with respect to Pin 8 of the IC.)
rgds, Gyula
Hi Pese,
Although I agree with some of your notices on the different circuits (see my comments below), I think also as Groundloop that the best way is to build the circuits in question from its originator and find yourself if it works or not. OF course, educated guesses can always be made in advance, depending on one's own expertize and practice, these guesses will either prove true or false.
Your notice on the diode bridge is correct, all the 4 diodes should be rotated 90 degree clockwise to get the correct polarity. (Page 5, Figure K-1 in this link: http://www.scene.org/~esa/merlib/Mueller.pdf , there is no drawing in Page 4.)
Your notice on the differing Collector and Emitter currents in Page 12. Fig. T-4 is interesting. to say the least.
I think the 5.5 Amper in the emitter can be true when the collector current is only 4 Amper IF you pump 1.5 Amper into the base-emitter junction from the transformer appropiate secondary coil. Normally the emitter current is IE = IC + IB , isn't it?
However the 5 Amper flow in the negative wire between the the batteries is an unusual value indeed, considering the 4 and 5.5 Ampers in the positive wire. All I can think of is that the AC current of the transistor oscillator may have influenced the current meters a little.
Your notice on the Page 10 circuit would be ok for me if the charging/discharging currents were also in the order of 5-6 Ampers or higher. However the circuit in Page 10 was built for 4,8V NIMH batteries that may have had a 2-3 AmperHour capacity, so the currents involved should be much less so that the timer circuit does not have to supply several Ampers into the transformer but max some hundred milliAmpers or less. From data sheet, the SG3524 max collector output current is 100mA, this is true, so the switching transistors should be chosen to be able to switch fully on via the transformer current convertion ratio, starting from this 100mA max output.
It is not clear for me that which timer was used for driving the Tesla switch circuit on Page 15 that includes the even higher current transistors (MJ802). They must have used an appropiate one, to be able to supply the higher driving currents.
Regards, Gyula
@gyulasun
tks, i know more than dozends of this circuits that "take the names from bedini entc"
and make no honor to this persons.
the circuit as above.
ANY member can build them very easy, with this relais as showned
ind the pdf link.
If you see that nothing will be lost or gain, with 100 switching with hand-breacker. you will understand. that an connected load will also
only surge power OUT the batteries!
So if you replace the relais with semiconductors, you have losses with heat, with VCE(sat in the transistors, with Uf from all the diodes and the bridge -- so this way, nothing to win on extro power - only extra losses.
I have constructed (and produced) voltage-doublers 6 to (near) 12 volts. (40 years ago) for car radio receivers - 12volt ti use on 6 volt car batteries (Germany) .
BUT in any way , its no WINNIG Power.
I must spend the double in Amperage in the source.
That "Watts = volts time Amperes) that i will have . I must also spend !"
Additionally an small "extra" for the losses in semiconductors..
If some members have an ask for this simply electronics, please feel fre to ask.
G Pese
TRY ALL CIRCUITS firs simply as possiby , in this case - breakers relais condensors batteries (and if load needed. filament lamps. (no LED or CFL)
@Pese,
>>tks, i know more than dozends of this circuits that "take the names from bedini entc
>>and make no honor to this persons
>>the circuit as above.
I have made it clear that the inventors of this circuit is Mr. John Bedini and Mr. Ronald Brandt.
I have also made it clear that I will try to replicate this circuit as close as possible to the circuit
drawing made by the two gentlemen. I have placed their names and copyright notice on
the printed circuit board to honor the inventors of this circuit.
Groundloop.
@geotron,
Quote from: geotron on March 07, 2010, 03:50:38 AM
I'm currently in the process of figuring out how to
connect the SG3524 in a proper fashion to the timer
input lead... a bit confusing - my best guess so far
is pin #7.
Attached is the block diagram of the inner workings of the SG3524 IC.
Here you can see that the output from the IC is two NPN transistors.
The oscillator (external RC network) will alternately switch on the
two transistors. To get this IC to work you will need at least a RC
network, power and the correct way of interfacing the output transistors
to you circuit. Mr. Bedini (the inventor of this circuit) has shown how to do
that in the posted pdf document.
Groundloop.
Quote from: Groundloop on March 07, 2010, 03:17:03 PM
@geotron,
Attached is the block diagram of the inner workings of the SG3594 IC.
....
It is SG3524, not 3594. Geotron mistyped it twice.
Respectfully, Gyula
@Groundloop
Hello,
there is nothing to say against a "Tesla - XYZ" trademark.
Not even if such a Tesla switch did not know to him.
But if this Tradmark existed since 1984,
there were 25 years of time to plan something to
that the "boys" do not have to construct with "unworkable circuits",
which takes the faith to the "free energy".
If you are the man here, that have the Tesla Switch protected:
You can help people build something decent
Gustav Pese
gyulasun - that makes sense. I'm looking at the published
schematic though and it says to use the 1N914. ??
SG3524 - I'll get it right one of these days :)
I'm going to go ahead and prove the original circuit that
I posted wrong before just giving up on it - what kind of
practice would it be to put all that work into releasing
bogus information? A practical joke?
I'm referring to the fact that I have not seen a working
or non-working construct of this circuit. Perhaps if it
doesn't work they ought to re-publish or officially denounce
themselves as trixters. I currently trust that they are
a lot more intelligent with electronics that I am, and
drew it precicely the way it ought to be built.
Groundloop - I hope that your build will prove successful;
I imagine that you're putting a lot of work into it and
enjoy reading your posts - don't get the idea that I'm
working against you by using my own layperson methods.
In reference to the Mueller document, figure T-7, there
is a -single- timer input. What I need to do is figure
out what is needed to supply this with appropriate on-off
signals without changing the layout in any way.
I should be able to build the circuit as shown, and then
plug in the timer as an accessory without hardwiring it
into the system, no?
@geotron,
As I said, my goal is to test the circuit Mr. Bedini did make.
It is not a problem for me what other people want to build and test.
>>I should be able to build the circuit as shown, and then
>>plug in the timer as an accessory without hard wiring it
>>into the system, no?
If you want to use just one signal input then it may be easier to just use a signal generator
or a 555 timer (with a switching transistor added) to control you circuit.
Groundloop.
Quote from: geotron on March 07, 2010, 05:28:20 PM
gyulasun - that makes sense. I'm looking at the published
schematic though and it says to use the 1N914. ??
...
@geotron
In the schematic you refer to and it includes the 1N914, the point is:
WHERE the 1N914 diodes are connected and WHERE the 30A diodes are connected.
The 1N914s are in parallel with the audio transformers' secondary (8 Ohm) coils, ok? Here there are surely currents that they can handle safely.
The 30 Amper diodes are in series with the batteries where the high current flow, depending on the batteries AmperHour capacity.
So two different routes for currents of highly different amplitudes, ok?
Regarding your pondering on whether the published circuits are bogus information or not, well, this can be always a question till a correct replication proves otherwise. I would not suppose John Bedini released bogus info, (maybe not the full info, this latter due to whatever reason).
However you surely read Pese's notices on the circuit problems I tried to answer for him, I consider these problems as misprints in the schematics.
You may also wish to 'peep' into the energetic.com forum I gave a link earlier where the Tesla switch has been discussed for some time and even you could ask questions there too.
rgds, Gyula
Hmm - a signal generator - interesting. I'll have to look up
some information on those.
Concerning the 555 timer, this is a diagram I found in an
ebook a while back - I'll have to track down where exactly
it appeared, but how does it look?
The various components are not labeled which gives me pause,
but perhaps it is a fairly standard arrangement that I could
use as a starting point...
Then there's the CD4011 version by Louis Pollaehn - would
this one work as well with figure T-7?
... capacitors are beginning to catch up in the
race on my choice list for components - using
them in place of batteries. I'm now faced with
the question of what designation to look for
equivalent to the storage of a 12V ~
Quote from: gyulasun on March 07, 2010, 06:23:03 PM
@geotron
In the schematic you refer to and it includes the 1N914, the point is:
WHERE the 1N914 diodes are connected and WHERE the 30A diodes are connected.
The 1N914s are in parallel with the audio transformers' secondary (8 Ohm) coils, ok? Here there are surely currents that they can handle safely.
rgds, Gyula
No the are to week,
You will give attention that an 2n3055 must be drive on base wit up to 2 Amps base currents (or peaks)
the MJ802 up to 3 times more .
so the transformer will also produce BACK-Currents&Voltages.
(like back-emf, if transformer switch the signal OFF)
The Diodes have to stop the negatibe impulses to the basis of
transistos. This is the idea to use this.
Gustav Pese
Perhaps my capacitor idea wasn't so good - there's
probably a lot of modifications that would have to
be made to get it to perform right... ??
Below I have outlined what I'm imagining is the
correct way to go about connecting the L.Pollaehn
timer circuit. The item labedled 'RELAY' has me
a tad confused, as it doesn't seem to be connected
to any other part of the circuit. Also I'm not sure
where this timer gets its power supply connected.
pese - I have circled a set of three diodes. Are these
the ones you are referring to as being set backwards?
The diagram appears to be a loop, and those ones are
pointing the opposite direction I would think they
ought to be.
I have an ask:
Why the 2 electrolydics habe both polarity wit negative side to bridge ?
Why not positive side ?
Is both "wrong".
Why not also with ONE Condensor can work ?
(the load ist only conect to bridge , so it must not
capacity separateting the "bridge".
Why dist its used the electrolydtics ?
EVEN without, this will work !!
Without the problem, that you have with
Polarity Problems.
-----------------------
Also -- it give more problems, that you can find yourself in THIS circuit ...
G.Pese
It looks to me like the positive end will capacitate
through to the negative side, supplying the positive
terminal on the end with flow... they must serve
some purpose I'm unaware of - it might be that without
them, the positive flow it too great and the batteries
drain out before they charge up?
OK - The relay is what leads in... on my previous diagram-post
in the circuit by L.Pollaehn? Then the +12V goes to power the
timer circuitry?
I may be understanding this a little better now if my
guess is correct -
Quote from: geotron on March 09, 2010, 03:21:34 AM
I may be understanding this a little better now if my
guess is correct -
Hi Geotron,
I would connect the top end of the relay pole through a 1K resistor to the 12 volt line, also connect the same pole to "timer input" next connect the centre pole to common ground. The relay then provides pulses to the timer input between 12 volts + via 1K resistor and ground.
Loner - when you refer to the cap in the timer section
of the switch, do you mean the one labeled 3.3MF? If so,
by decreasing the size of this cap, you're saying it
would have the effect of.... increasing the rate of on/off
signals? What is the purpose of having the timer chip
and everything when the capacitor is what controls the
signals? I'm probably jumping to conclusions on this one,
and if so I apologize.
Well, here it is - a modified diagram with the 1K resistor
and everything connected the way I'm picturing it ought to
be... looks good?
I'm not really certain what purpose the
1K resistor serves... is it to direct the flow
of electricity? The way I have illustrated it, it
looks like the +12V will go straight through into
the Timer Input on the Switches, bypassing the relay -
Quote from: geotron on March 09, 2010, 10:56:20 PM
Loner - when you refer to the cap in the timer section
of the switch, do you mean the one labeled 3.3MF? If so,
by decreasing the size of this cap, you're saying it
would have the effect of.... increasing the rate of on/off
signals? What is the purpose of having the timer chip
and everything when the capacitor is what controls the
signals? I'm probably jumping to conclusions on this one,
and if so I apologize.
Well, here it is - a modified diagram with the 1K resistor
and everything connected the way I'm picturing it ought to
be... looks good?
I'm not really certain what purpose the
1K resistor serves... is it to direct the flow
of electricity? The way I have illustrated it, it
looks like the +12V will go straight through into
the Timer Input on the Switches, bypassing the relay -
The diode configuration looks to provide a push pull type of arrangement, when the relay is closed one set of transformers is conducting more than the other set, and when the relay is turned off the BEMF affects the others that were not conducting. The 1k resistor is for current limiting since the relay is effectively shorting the power buss to produce the pulses. This is the timer circuit BTW, as shown.
not working !
you cant drive the transistors with about 1omA current (1k resistor)
even you cant charge the elctrolydt condensor up ti unload this to drive the transistors no such way . even the transformers 8:1000 Ohm can never work. the whole device. is only "exerimental"..
Fin to learn somes from electronic , thats all
G Pese
Quote from: geotron on March 09, 2010, 10:56:20 PM
...
Well, here it is - a modified diagram with the 1K resistor
and everything connected the way I'm picturing it ought to
be... looks good?
...
No, it is only "half good". crowclaw meant the lower relay contact goes directly down to the negative battery polarity, ok?
The 1 kOhm and its connection is ok to the upper relay contact. The 12V goes directly to the timer input of the Tesla switch via the 1 kOhm and whenever the relay is fired, the timer input is connected to the negative polarty instead of the +12V. In your drawing the wire from the lower relay contact now goes to the 1000uF capacitor, this is wrong, that wire should go to the GND instead of the cap.
This is what crowclaw suggested.
Hi Guy's
Has any body tried Ron Cole's circuit out for themselves yet or have any thoughts?
http://www.freeenergynews.com/Directory/Electromagnetic/TeslaSwitch/Tesla_Battery_Switch_PGFED.pdf
see page 12.
Just in the process of experimenting with it myself. I have three 18000uf 30v capacitors, a hefty bridge rectifier and a 55W 12 volt auto bulb. The battery is 1.7AH 12v gel cell. I am pulsing a relay from a sig gen with a variable output from 0.5Hz upwards with min 15%>85% mark space ratio.
Pulses on battery approx 15volts+ but tend to be a little unpredictable!!
Hi crowclaw,
Though I have been aware of the collection on Ron Cole's circuits, now that you mentioned it I recall an US patent (already referred to in this forum) which includes only 1 battery and two (super)capacitors and two or three DPDT switches and it claims the circuit more than doubles the run time for a load driven from the battery and the switched capacitors vs the battery alone. See here:
http://www.google.com/patents/about?id=85R6AAAAEBAJ&dq=7085123
and they have a patent application on a variant circuit too :
http://www.google.com/patents/about?id=wiWqAAAAEBAJ&dq=7085123
Unfortunately their circuit needs unipolar supercapacitors, not readily available?
rgds, Gyula
Quote from: gyulasun on March 10, 2010, 06:15:00 PM
Unfortunately their circuit needs unipolar supercapacitors, not readily available?
rgds, Gyula
NO PROBLEM.
I seen an lot of Application (Speaker-Systems) , in that was used (for Audio AC) 2 polarized Electrolydtics. , in serie with both neg connected . and 2 positiv leads as unpol. lead connection.
(also all-in-one- unpolarized- Electrolydtics . from OEM are produced this way in ONE Tube !
(If you are "angry" , than you can shield each cap
with an additionally parallel diode.
G Pese
@Loner
Ref:
The 8:1000 could easily
allow the impulse to go over the MAX Gate-Source voltage of the part,
so Zeners, or careful current regulation of Timer Output will be needed.
Think only that:
If you need to drive the Transiors buse currents from 1Amp or more than also an darlington configuration reduce this 10 or 20 times.
Even if you need 50mA. The 8:1000 ration (10:1000 with losses)
will you ASK 100 Times more AMPS to drive that.
This are 5 AMPS !
5 Amp with 12Volts are 50 Watt peaks that must transferred
over the audio-transformer core.
The whole circuit is WRONG . In even ANY detail.
(belive it - i must not discussing so mutch to learn others in electronics. I will only sen you - an little help- to use your own thinking)
G Pesé
Quote from: gyulasun on March 10, 2010, 06:15:00 PM
Hi crowclaw,
Though I have been aware of the collection on Ron Cole's circuits, now that you mentioned it I recall an US patent (already referred to in this forum) which includes only 1 battery and two (super)capacitors and two or three DPDT switches and it claims the circuit more than doubles the run time for a load driven from the battery and the switched capacitors vs the battery alone. See here:
http://www.google.com/patents/about?id=85R6AAAAEBAJ&dq=7085123
and they have a patent application on a variant circuit too :
http://www.google.com/patents/about?id=wiWqAAAAEBAJ&dq=7085123
Unfortunately their circuit needs unipolar supercapacitors, not readily available?
rgds, Gyula
Hi Gyula,
I'm most grateful for the information you have provided many thanks. I have linked up the circuit just using a single 12 cell and capacitors as mentioned.
I can confirm that this circuit arrangement does work. I haven't done any serious trial measurements etc as I intend to experiment further. I can say however that "tuning" seems to be critical. My initial tests are being carried out with a 10 amp relay which will be limited of course to switching frequencies. I will possibly look at electronic switching either using FET's or SCR's. May be there is something unusual that defies logical thinking with pulse circuits... inductive or otherwise!! Once again thanks for your interest and reply.
Hi crowclaw,
Very good, and am curious what capacitors you use now: your 18000uFs?
I also wonder if supercaps are a must in their circuit (probably this depends on the heavyness of the load) and I agree the switching frequency is critical (charge/discharge time of the capacitors and harmony with the load).
When you turn to solid state switches, have to face with the body diode in MOSFETs, and the 1V or higher ON state voltage drops of the SCRs. Prepared for them?
Quote
...
May be there is something unusual that defies logical thinking with pulse circuits... inductive or otherwise!!
...
I wonder what you mean ;)
Afterall the referred patents may suggest a COP of 2 by doubling the run time for a load... I now think the 'magic' is partly in the rechargable batteries's chemical processes. If the battery is replaced with a charged up supercap in their patents circuits, do you think the load would still run for as long? Well I doubt it with my common sense... though do not rule out without testing.
rgds, Gyula
Quote from: gyulasun on March 05, 2010, 06:01:37 AM
Hi Folks,
The circuit in question came from John Bedini (1984 era), see Page 10 in the PDF file here: http://www.scene.org/~esa/merlib/Mueller.pdf
Also, you can find useful explanations on 1, 2, 3 and 4 battery systems here:
http://www.freeenergynews.com/Directory/Electromagnetic/TeslaSwitch/Tesla_Battery_Switch_PGFED.pdf
-------------------------------------------------
Regards, Gyula
Hi all,
Isn't there something wrong with the fifth diagram down on this page?
http://www.freeenergynews.com/Directory/Electromagnetic/TeslaSwitch/Tesla_Battery_Switch_PGFED.pdf
In this 4-battery config., aren't batteries 3 & 4 effectively OUT of the circuit?
If I'm wrong, please explain why because I thought I understood the Tesla Switch.
Greg
Quote from: gmeast on March 11, 2010, 06:16:37 PM
Hi all,
Isn't there something wrong with the fifth diagram down on this page?
http://www.freeenergynews.com/Directory/Electromagnetic/TeslaSwitch/Tesla_Battery_Switch_PGFED.pdf
In this 4-battery config., aren't batteries 3 & 4 effectively OUT of the circuit?
If I'm wrong, please explain why because I thought I understood the Tesla Switch.
Greg
Hi Greg,
I think you are right, there is a misprint in that schematic. The correct way would be for the lower contact of the light bulb would connect to the common negative of bats 3 and 4 instead of their common positive shown?
Have not figured out.
rgds, Gyula
Quote from: gyulasun on March 11, 2010, 06:48:11 PM
Hi Greg,
I think you are right, there is a misprint in that schematic. The correct way would be for the lower contact of the light bulb would connect to the common negative of bats 3 and 4 instead of their common positive shown?
Have not figured out.
rgds, Gyula
Yes ... and more than that. BOTH the + bus and - bus in this parallel connection of batts 3 & 4 must be connected to something or it's still OUT of the circuit.
Anyone else? Thanks,
Greg
Quotecrowclaw meant the lower relay contact
goes directly down to the negative battery polarity, ok?
- Ok... as shown? My interpretation of GND is (-)
QuoteThe 1 kOhm
and its connection is ok to the upper relay contact.
||||
The 12V
goes directly to the timer input of the Tesla switch
via the 1 kOhm
and whenever the relay is fired, the timer input
is connected to
the negative polarity instead of the +12V.
So besides my previous lower relay connection I have correctly
illustrated the correct way to time this device?
QuoteIn your drawing the wire from the lower relay contact
now goes to the 1000uF capacitor, this is wrong
that wire should go to the GND instead
of the cap.
The GND below the cap, or as I have connected below,
to the one on the timer circuit?
@geotron
Yes, that is how crowclaw meant connecting the timer output to the input of the T switch. The two GNDs are also connected of course.
Quote from: gyulasun on March 11, 2010, 05:52:24 PM
Hi crowclaw,
Very good, and am curious what capacitors you use now: your 18000uFs?
I also wonder if supercaps are a must in their circuit (probably this depends on the heavyness of the load) and I agree the switching frequency is critical (charge/discharge time of the capacitors and harmony with the load).
When you turn to solid state switches, have to face with the body diode in MOSFETs, and the 1V or higher ON state voltage drops of the SCRs. Prepared for them?
rgds, Gyula
Hi Gyula,
Yes your right of course about using solid state device types! sometimes my ideas surpass logical thought processes. The caps I have had kicking around for years and I don't remember how I came by them... they are 18000uf @ 30v with screw caps and rather large. I have three of them being used for this experiment. Yes the timing is critical as two in parallel across 12volts to charge up takes quite an initial drain... they are then discharged in series across the battery as per diagram.
If any one else wants to jump in with thoughts and suggestions please feel free. Regards
It's a bit crooked, but this is my working model of the
Louis Pollaehn timer.
I have labeled the components to the best of my
visual interpretation - the resistor between pin 5
of cd4011 and the 1M speed control was guessy, as
well as the one by 2n2222.
The high speed diode ? - across from the relay
is curious... Would a 1N914 work?
@All,
I have soldered my new replica of the Bedini/Brandt Tesla switch.
Next job will be mounting the board into a suitable enclosure.
I estimate to run the first tests next weekend.
Groundloop.
@geotron,
Attached is my version of the 4011 oscillator circuit.
Groundloop.
Hi Groundloop,
Professional circuit design as always. I just wanted to know the significance of keeping pins 8+9, 12+13 (on the NAND) actively low? Brings back memories of building gates with discrete components, everything now seems to be a single chip FPGA. :)
Quote from: DreamThinkBuild on March 21, 2010, 10:11:46 AM
Hi Groundloop,
Professional circuit design as always. I just wanted to know the significance of keeping pins 8+9, 12+13 (on the NAND) actively low? Brings back memories of building gates with discrete components, everything now seems to be a single chip FPGA. :)
I can answer that.
That chip is a 4011 CMOS complimentary metal oxide semiconductor chip.
Spare inputs on cmos must be connected or they float to center of their
range and gate outputs can begin to switch due to the high gain of cmos
logic stages. Both hi/lo parts of a gate's output can come on simultaneously
ruining the cmos low power profile by using more power than the whole
rest of the circuit.
:S:MarkSCoffman
@DreamThinkBuild,
Eagle Cad always "nag" me of unused input pins. :-)
(High input impedance + static electricity = burned chip.)
Yes, the gated arrays chips is great but old school TTL is still in production.
A micro controller and some TTL's is still useful for small projects. :-)
Edit: @mscoffman is also correct. :-)
Groundloop.
Thank you Groundloop & Mark for the answer,
It makes sense now, you learn something new everyday. :)
@All,
Got my new Tesla Switch into the metal box now. I'm currently charging up 5
(Go/Tech E-Block - HR 6F22 - 200mAh 9V Ni-Mh) batteries. Will be ready to run
the first test of the unit in a day or two.
Groundloop.
@All,
The first run of the unit has been done. I do not have all the Ni-Mh batteries
charged up yet, so I did run a test with 4 capacitors on the switch part and
one Ni-Mh battery to power the oscillator. When I flipped the CH switch (switch
for back feeding energy from the switch into the oscillator run battery) then
the output did go to zero (or very close) volt.
Groundloop.
:(
----------
There seems to be an interesting assortment (http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=cd4011) of CD4011
chips with suffix-names I'm unfamiliar with.
At 100+ chip results, should I mainly be concerned with
their physical dimensions?
@geotron,
My replica did work as designed and the switch did do what it was supose to do,
but did not do anything that even closely can be considered over unity. The
switch itself did use 30mA just to run without a load. With load, the five 200mA
batteries did drain in 90 minutes. The switching did not produce enough "extra"
power to keep the run battery charged with the charge switch closed.
That said, the method of using audio transformers to control the transistors on
and off did work. So if you build a 4011 based oscillator then it is possible to
use transformers to control the transistors. Use a 4000 series IC. Those IC's
can take up to max. 18 volt. The 74 series IC's is designed to run on 5 volt.
Groundloop.
Hmm... this is the one I'm considering -
CD40117BEE4 (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/CD40117BEE4/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtgJDuTUz7Xu9AMSI3OmO2cPF%2fqhkqee5o%3d)
It is the only one at Mouser that they seem to stock in
the CD4011 Counter IC (http://www.mouser.com/Semiconductors/Counter-ICs/_/N-1he21?Keyword=cd4011&FS=True) category - all the others are listed as
Gates, which I'm kind of thinking would be the wrong thing...
@geotron,
You need to use a CD4011BE or compatible.
This IC runs from 3 to 15 volt.
The CD40117BEE4 will NOT work in your oscillator.
Groundloop.
Did anyone tested 4 battery switch SO FAR '?
what was OU result ?
Ok, I've been searching around for them (CD4011BE), and
the only place seems to be Farnell at the moment. It is
confusing to me dealing with the wide variety of suffixes.
Is there any kind of reference that shows explicitly
what these letters and numbers stand for?
I've been studying the original schematic for this timer,
having drawn it down on paper, and had to take a look at
your digital representation of it Groundloop because I
couldn't make out the label on the item which I've circled
in the pic attached.
As a matter of fact I still don't understand what it is.
The 'R3' indicates to me that its a resistor, but the '8K2'
seems foreign to me. Then there's the R4 which I thought
looked like '1.2K', but you've labeled it in much the same
way as the previous one.
Everything else seems fairly self-apparent, excepting
what type of relay it calls for. At Farnell alone there
are close to 8000 choices, including those that even
have their own built-in time delay function... at first
glance I would choose to look in either the 'High Frequency'
or more general 'Relays/Contactors' categories.
Relays at Farnell (http://export.farnell.com/relays)
If I was going to pick one, it would be the Omron G2R-14-DC12 (http://export.farnell.com/omron-electronic-components/g2r-14-dc12/power-relay-12v/dp/1703741)
@geotron,
The resistor is 8,2 Kilo Ohm. So 8K2 = 8,2K = 8.2K = 8200 Ohm.
(Resistors below 1000 Ohm is often labeled with a R back. e. g. 100R = 100 Ohm.)
Groundloop.
Well that makes a lot of sense - thanks for clarifying me.
On the matter of relays, the Omron model I've listed above
is rated at 275ohms. I'm not quite certain how this value
would effect the circuit's functionality, or whether it
makes any difference at all for the purpose of the Tesla
Switch... Honestly I don't see how it could.
Would I be correct in viewing any 12V relay as a suitable fit?
@geotron,
If the 2N2222 transistor is connected via the relay to +12 volt then your use a 12 volt relay.
If you build the oscillator as I did draw it on page 4 then you use a 5 volt relay.
The diode across the relay can be 1N4148, 1N914 or any other fast switching diode.
If you use your drawing (on page 4) then remember to ground pin 7,8,9,12 and 13 on the 4011 IC.
Groundloop.
I've been messing around with building my own oscillator
device lately with the use of another project entitled
PC Fan Generator (http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=8930.0) in Half-Baked Ideas. It involves positioning
a small disc magnet near the perimeter of the other ones being
spun by the Fan's motor. Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEuwG6zycVY)
It seems to work extremely well, although without a scope
I can't corroborate this, but I'm fairly certain that with a bit
of adjustment I can get it to perform at least 100-200 contacts
per second without too much trouble.
In the video I've glued a matchstick to the outter fan casing and
a small disc magnet - magnet facing towards the spinning ones on
the fan, and an alligator clip is being held to the other side
of the matchstick by attraction to the small disc magnet, vibrating
against the positive contact of the LED bank.
So, it looks as if I may be able to go ahead and order all of my
parts for the main body of the Tesla Switch and hook the finished
device right onto this Magnet Commutator. (?)
The voltage going through it in the video is around 3.3V, although
I've got leads on my supply for 12V as well... its an old ATX supply
scavenged from a non-working computer.
Again, here is my working model illustration for hooking the timer
to the T-Switch. The reason I've brought it back is, I'm not certain
if I would still need the 1K resistor inline with the +12V like is
shown at top...
I've found nearly all of the parts I'd need to complete my
build at Mouser except the 30A diodes... for which they've
got ones with 30amp foward continuous current, as well as
others with 30amp 'max surge current'.
I would guess to obtain the ones with 30A foward current...
Perhaps I've spoken too soon... the 1000uF electrolytic capacitors
are giving me a small problem. I've found the right category list,
but how am I to know what voltage type to look for? My first
thought was to go with 12V as it would match the batteries, but
they don't seem to have them - ?
Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors at Mouser.com (http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors-Leaded/_/N-75hqw?P=1z0wrjwZ1z0z819)
You need at least 25V rated capacitors, like this:
http://hu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lelon/TEA102M1EBK-1322P/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22Z8b58wL7NwvIUghvPS7BEU%3d
Awesome - thanks for the link. At the moment it looks as
if my order is set... although it might be a couple of
weeks before I can dedicate enough funds to it.
The 30A diodes I ended up with are 'dual common cathode',
200 amp max surge current - MBRF30H150CTG at Mouser (http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=MBRF30H150CTGvirtualkey58410000virtualkey863-MBRF30H150CTG)
Progress update on my commutator project - the disc magnet
is soldered directly to the 1st contact, and the 2nd contact
has been given a thin layer of solder for good measure.
I'll first try tuning it a bit with the bank of LEDs to get
things started, then scale things up from there.
Its kind of difficult to tell from my video of this working
with the string of blue LEDs how fast its vibrating due to
the frame rate, but with the magnet's blurring speed I can't
help but think that at least 100 contacts/sec shouldn't be
too hard to achieve.
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=1645.msg238437#msg238437
GP
Video - Switching LEDs with Magnet Generator (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yNuipjTNdaI)
magnet generator (http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=8930.0) in Half Baked Ideas