double post deleated

Quote from: resonanceman on June 04, 2008, 01:27:00 AM
Pardon

how did   the voltage and current hold up after the shock treatment ?

did you hook the positive up to copper and negative to iron when you shocked it?


Gary

yes i did that the voltage went up just like i expected. but since it was dry they came back down in a short time.

note if my coil is wet and i apply a voltage of 12 volts my coil will make hydrogen in water. and it will be a water battery. and that will put out 2 volts. i just don't know how to explane it any better. the wire i have used in the cell makes hydrogen. and that was tested with short 5 inch pieces of wire in water with 12 VDC connected to the wire for a short time. then removing the supply voltage and testing the same wires in the water. and getting 2 volts.

my first type of iron wire did not have the same effect in water at least not as good of a hydrogen battery. but the wire would bubble just like the new wire i have used but not as good as the new wire. my first wire was the re bar Tye wire with the black stuff on it. my new wire is for hanging drop ceilings you know the panel type.

my cell was putting out 78 VDC 1.2 VDC and 2.03 Ma's today.

i think if my coil had longer wire it would have much better voltages.

also as a side note i could not get a series connection using cells and have the voltage go up. the only thing that happened was the coil  stayed at the same voltage but the amps dropped to the cells amps. weird ?? thats not what i expected. it was like the coil would pull down the voltage but not change anything but the cells voltage and the coils Amps.

also i now have 11 cells wired in series they put out 5.03 VDC 9.?? VAC but only .07 Ma's they are in earth but they are dry. it's raining again so i stopped working on them. as soon as i can solder a connector to the copper pipe i have, i will have 12 cells. sorry i ran out of fuel for the torch. each cell is in it's own plastic container that i can Berry later. all the containers have holes in the bottum so they can drain. also i can light a bright white LED with just this series of cells and no other componets added. it could be a bit brighter. if i can get the amps up a little bit i will try and run a small motor i have waiting. 

Hi All,

For the past few days I have been thrashing about, not sure what to do next.

I have been on some HHO pages and TPU pages. on one of the TPU pages, I followed a link that led me to the following link:

http://www.gutenberg.org/files/15617/15617-h/15617-h.htm

This is a whole free book, and a good read on the historical background at NS time.
Something he might have read or known about.

MANY, MANY of our questions are answered in this book.

It is a few hundred pages and covers
batteries wet and dry cell,

Induction coils with and without iron cores,

Torroidal loops wound with external coils.

I copied it and it is on my computer, which is what I suggest everyone should do.

It kind of shows really clearly that the things everyone on this ou forum is doing in all the fields, is a continuation from the early 1900's.

My eyes closed on page 197 last night. I will continue today.

please read this if you are ready for more input.

(Oh BTW, I read on one of the TPU threads that reed switches fatigue in a few minutes at really high frequency, so it may no be the way to go afterall! - not to discourage but to prepare for looking for the next step.)

Right now, I have a crystal oscillator on mine.(I have it cu to cu at the moment.) There are many possibilities for hook up  of course.

I am following a thought of mine, that others oppose, that the coil reverses direction when the pulse changes from starting at the 10 to starting at the 5. The coil  if starting at the 10 is wound CW, and if starting at the 5 is wound CCW.

It probably won't work unless I can match the freq to the coil, but I am looking at this as a way to make the coil oscillate and not break down.



jeanna

@ Jeanna:

Excellent find on the book.  I too will download it and read.  I have not had much time lately to be on here or to experiment.  I have not forgotten about our project though.  Maybe reading this book will inspire some new change in direction for us.

Also, about the reed switches....if they are metal they can and will fatigue.  Pulse jet engines uses petal valves that are very similar in function to a reed switch.  These oscillate at very high frequencies when turned to the pulse jet engine and they fatigue as well.  I always wanted to make some out of ceramic as we did our springs as they, by definition, are not subject to metal fatigue.  A ceramic reed switch might work but it would have to have a conducting contact point chemically bonded (glued) to it to complete the circuit.

Thanks Jeanna, I'm off to download this book.

Bill

Is it possible to do this switching with silicon? I'm not to familiar with this but I'm sure someone here can chime in. http://industrial.panasonic.com/www-cgi/jvcr21pz.cgi?E+SC+4+AHA7000+5++WW

Might eliminate the fatigue issue.