@ Storre

Nice coil, nice tight turns, should be a bonza coil when finished.
Bet the fingers feel a bit saw after winding that lot 

I like the wooden former ends, same as stubblefields.

Storry, you havent mentioned how you made the wooden ends, but I believe a hole saw is a suitable tool to do this, for those who don't know what that contraption is, it is a circular saw used to cut holes in a door before mounting door locks etc.

Nice sink also, well done storre

Jim

Quote from: Pirate88179 on June 18, 2008, 12:12:08 AM
Man, that is a beautiful coil you have there!!!  The vdc seems about right but you should have a decent amount of amps I would think.  Please don't take offense to this but, have you checked to make sure you have not blown a fuse on the mA part of your meter?  I was reading "0" mA's on several tests before I finally figured out that I had blown one of the 2 fuses on my meter.  Later, I again read "0" and it still took me a while to test the fuse and found out I had blown yet another one.

Maybe try testing a "AA" battery for mA's just to see?  You have a lot of mass there and it is wound very nicely, I would suspect that you should see at least 20-30 mA's wet, possibly a lot more.

I read in another topic that the mA fuses on our meters are very prone to blowing at the slightest provocation.  It might have blown when you first tested it if it was set too low.  Trust me, it does not take much.

I hope this helps.

Bill

I would defininatley check the fuse, as bill mentions the fuse can easily be blown ive done this many times myself.

well spotted bill

Chad.

Quote from: Pirate88179 on June 18, 2008, 12:12:08 AM
Man, that is a beautiful coil you have there!!!  The vdc seems about right but you should have a decent amount of amps I would think.  Please don't take offense to this but, have you checked to make sure you have not blown a fuse on the mA part of your meter?  I was reading "0" mA's on several tests before I finally figured out that I had blown one of the 2 fuses on my meter.  Later, I again read "0" and it still took me a while to test the fuse and found out I had blown yet another one.

Maybe try testing a "AA" battery for mA's just to see?  You have a lot of mass there and it is wound very nicely, I would suspect that you should see at least 20-30 mA's wet, possibly a lot more.

I read in another topic that the mA fuses on our meters are very prone to blowing at the slightest provocation.  It might have blown when you first tested it if it was set too low.  Trust me, it does not take much.

I hope this helps.

Bill

Thanks Bill and I was hoping you were right on that fuse but my meter only has a 500ma and 10A fuse and both are ok. Doesn't seem to have a separate fuse for mA and I tested some batteries and it reads correctly. Will test the coil more but if I don't get anything I will splice on more wire instead of rewinding with longer wire. Shouldn't make a difference if I do a nice mend with some solder right? Winding this is a hand and arm killer! I can see several ways to motorize it. I have a vertical drill with slow speed that I could rig up for winding. Today I will see if it has any effect on a compass when I short it out using the opposite ends. So copper to iron but using there opposite ends.

Quote from: electricme on June 18, 2008, 02:30:44 AM
@ Storre

Nice coil, nice tight turns, should be a bonza coil when finished.
Bet the fingers feel a bit saw after winding that lot 

I like the wooden former ends, same as stubblefields.

Storry, you havent mentioned how you made the wooden ends, but I believe a hole saw is a suitable tool to do this, for those who don't know what that contraption is, it is a circular saw used to cut holes in a door before mounting door locks etc.

Nice sink also, well done storre

Jim

Yes I made them with a hole saw. I live in a granite and bamboo house and we use all size hole saws to cut the bamboo. My idea with the cool was to duplicate the patent as close as possible and the form ends I would use to hold onto to wind the coil. It was the best way other than using a motor, to make sure the coil was wound very tightly. I used all my wait throughout all the turning and the coil as is tight as it can be. I recall reading somewhere that it should be a tight cool so the distances between the two metals is close as possible. Also the cotton tubing is very tight on the copper.

Does anyone know of a good wire stripper. I need to strip about 20M of 12 gauge copper. I guess the standard type for stripping wire ends will not work for the whole length.

Today the coil is still wet but not submersed and is reading .635V (it gradually climbs if I leave the meter connected) and .00mA by reading the copper and galvanized from one side or opposite sides but with no connection between the copper and galvanized wire ends.

@ Storre

A stone and bamboo house??? now that is different, I have seen bamboo used as water pipe when I lived in New Guinea, I have even lived in a paper house, it's true, thats a long time ago.

OK how to remove varnish off copper, back in my days when I wound coils for rewinding motors, we had to burn the burntout copper wires to get scrap value back in aussie.
Take 20M of copper, put in a galvinised rubbish bin, throw in a half cup of petrol and light it. That removes the varnish. (smokes a lot, stinks a lot also, neighbours panic a lot too:)  Take out the bare copper, blackened with soot, and wash it in soap and water.
But the cupper might now be brittle, or too soft to use it.

We had to use an oxy welding flame to melt the ends of the copper to steel 240v leads, so you never know, it might work.

Anyone else got a better way to do this, other than setting fire to the joint?

Jim