Quote from: jeanna on June 12, 2009, 07:39:52 PM
I have a wimhurst machine and it barely glowed this fluoro light, so, I am not sure this is the answer either.

It is surely involved, but the voltage was very high passing through the tube. I could feel it on my fingertips. Perhaps the magnet delivers a spark in the right way to switch the light on.

i did not meant that static can fully light neons.
what i meant is that almost any charged object/materials can have the same "starting" effect as what you saw with the magnet.

Quote from: altrez on June 13, 2009, 08:20:41 AM
I have a question that relates back to what a friend said to me yesterday at work. I do not know if this is true or not. But he said that once I reach a certain voltage / frequency point with my JT it will stop working because of the small gauge magnetic wire?

your friend is right to some extent.

the effect on the voltage, of adding more turns, will get lower and lower with each additionnal turn, pass a certain point.
further pass that point, it will start having a reversed effect on the voltage.
that is if you have a fixed frequency, even if you add more turns.

but.
up to a certain point in frequencies, the coupling of a given coil, is inductive with "parasitic" capacitive coupling.
read parasitic as = very very very small.
pass that point, the coupling start to be more capacitive then inductive.
and if you go really high in frequency, the coupling will be only capacitive, with "parasitic" inductive coupling.
at that point, the turn ratio is not meaningfull anymore.
the capacitance of the coils will take over as the mean of transfering energy from one coil to the other.



@Thaelin
you are welcome.

Quote from: TheNOP on June 13, 2009, 01:44:35 PM
i did not meant that static can fully light neons.
what i meant is that almost any charged object/materials can have the same "starting" effect as what you saw with the magnet.

your friend is right to some extent.

the effect on the voltage, of adding more turns, will get lower and lower with each additionnal turn, pass a certain point.
further pass that point, it will start having a reversed effect on the voltage.
that is if you have a fixed frequency, even if you add more turns.

but.
up to a certain point in frequencies, the coupling of a given coil, is inductive with "parasitic" capacitive coupling.
read parasitic as = very very very small.
pass that point, the coupling start to be more capacitive then inductive.
and if you go really high in frequency, the coupling will be only capacitive, with "parasitic" inductive coupling.
at that point, the turn ratio is not meaningfull anymore.
the capacitance of the coils will take over as the mean of transfering energy from one coil to the other.



@Thaelin
you are welcome.

Thank you so much for explaining that to me.

-Altrez

Quote from: altrez on June 13, 2009, 08:20:41 AM
@jeanna

3 hours is great keep up the good work. I will still get the scope stuff to you from my Toroid I have been working non stop!

@all

I have a question that relates back to what a friend said to me yesterday at work. I do not know if this is true or not. But he said that once I reach a certain voltage / frequency point with my JT it will stop working because of the small gauge magnetic wire?

And that if I wanted to really push up the Current / Volts / Frequency I needed to re think my design. I did some basic research and I believe he is right. At a point the mag wire will bleed over and the higher the frequency seems to play an effect on the wire as well.

Using the LCR meter showed me the inductance of the wire. Well if you move up to 400 turns around 40 feet of wire the inductance gets really high. Thus you can get more Voltage with larger pickup coils true but at what cost in efficiency of the JT? How much harder is the JT having to work to push that huge pickup coil?

I can light 1 CFL from my big toroid from 1 AA battery the way I do it is with 1 fuji board attached to a pickup coil that has small turns less voltage just enough that will charge a small battery to the point that the fuji will turn on for testing.

It would seem to me that 6 smaller pickup coils on the toroid will give better use of the power produced from the JT?

So that is what my test is going to be for today. 6 pickup coils @ 2 volts rectified DC for 12 volts total. each running into a Cap that runs into a battery that then in turn goes to a Fuji board.

At that point I will attach a CFL to each FUJI and fire them up! I am sure this will work as I have tested the concept. When I have it done I am going to mount it on a nice panel and use it for mood lighting in my lab / kitchen

Here is a hand drawn pic of the concept.

Take care!

-Altrez

Altrez

I think you might  be right about the  inductance  going to high  with  very long thin wires .  Most  of my  big coils    have  put out far less  voltage than I expected .
If  you are right ... ......one way around  this  might  be to  raise  the  permeability  of the core .......  Not exactlly  something  you can do on the fly  with  a toroid ....but with my LMs  it is easy .

I think  your idea of using  a  bunch  of  smaller  pickups  rather than one big one  is  a good  way  around the problem too .   .
It might work  great  to  rectify  the   output of each  coil ......but  I agree with Jeanna ....keep it  AC whenever you can . 


I am looking  forward to seeing your results

gary 

Quote from: Mk1 on June 06, 2009, 12:09:43 AM
@all

MK1 this is great, I have been thinking of a very similar idea.  Have you made it yet? 

@all

Well after going on vacation for 2 weeks there is a lot of reading to catch up on but it seems like everyone is making great progress! 

Great work everybody

Quote from: free on June 13, 2009, 02:32:33 PM
hi all,

ima new here...
lots of info on the JT here...so much ima kinda get lost in it.
i have got a Fuji circuit board and was trying 2 get it run some light bulp but no luck till now.
my board is 1 that use a AAA battery...i did use 1 pic that i found here with some info about the connection needed 2 make 4 it 2 run but still no luck

here r both pics...the top 1 is from this forum and the bottom 1 is mine...couldnt get a closer pic 4 mine.

when i switch it on i still hear the squiking sound and the Cap get filled till about 275volts
doesnt this suppose 2 happend? afther the circuit have been altered?
and when i switch it on i get zero volts on the + and - on the light connection?

thnx 4 any info on this...

Peace!

V2DAY

Welcome!!! We are glad to have you here Can you get an AC reading from the fuji and post it please?

-Altrez