Quote from: jeanna on November 01, 2009, 06:23:38 PM

Then we would have the opposite corners of the usa covered!
Tishatsang could try it in china and bill is in kentucky and jim in aussie. Maybe we could find something out! Where is protonmom these days? I think her location is upper midwest?? I am not sure.

And MW383 in Wisconsin along the shores of Lake Michigan....

By the way, immersion heaters nice from the fact that their efficiency is so high. I have much hard test data in these regards with commercial cooking appliances. In fact I will be travelling to a large power company down in the southern USA in a few days to oversee some of these very tests.

There is something better though and that is inductive heating. I am able to do more heat transfer work (into water) inductively with much less energy when compared to resistive heating elements that are submerged.

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Jim,

In regards to your latest experiences with heat..... All I can think of is that you are inducing eddy currents. That is why it is heating the way it is. About the only place for an eddy current to develop is on any magnetic material in the system (iron laminations of core) What is interesting is your methods. They are quite simple when compared to commercial induction cookers.

I continue my hacking of these nasty little devices. Basically I use the induction circuit to drive a cylindrical coil instead of pancake coil. Located inside the coil is a galvanized pipe. This pipe will heat to 400F with just 100W power from 120VAC. Passing water through the pipe via natural percolation circuit creates a deadly effective steam heater. I am ducting steam output into an old refrigeration system evaporator. This evaporator is housed in a simple sheet metal enclosure having an inlet at bottom and outlet on top. 2 fans are utilized to pull air through the system (better to pull through evaporator coils than push). The result? The most power efficient space heater known. So steam is entering the evaporator, and recondenses to water upon leaving the evaporator. I have a variable transformer on the fans so I can adjust fan speed. Fans running full on take exiting evaporator water down to room temperature. I have lowered fan speed so water output a little higher than room temp. Note this system is not pressurized although it could be easily adapted into one. I will take some pictures and post upon returning from my power company expedition... This system could also be easily adapted into a conventional baseboard hot water heating system for a home.

I made mention to Jeanna of the many applications that can be done here. It is strictly up to the imagination. The missing link is a simple circuit. Right now I am definitely tied into mis-using cooking based circuits. There is a chap out there who knows how to build these things from scratch. I will have to hunt up his contact information. In the mean time, it looks like you are doing the same thing via alternate methods.

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Jeanna,

In researching commercial induction circuits I have on hand.... AC supply voltage converted into DC. Once in DC circuitry, the system is isolated from spikes/problems that may occur on AC input side. Ultimately, the power is manipulated back to AC for distribution into the coil. Apparently an all AC system has a high failure rate in the field due to inconsistent power. Playing all of the DC games like we do achieves high reliability but also at a higher price. So if you ever want to hack up a commercial induction cooker, get one with the DC middle man.

Tishitang,

Again thank you for the dowsing handbook. I didn't mean to refer to it in a negative light. Along with the long list of other things I do in life, I run a small hobby farm. In my many reams of agricultural readings, I came accross a very unique form of agriculture that utilizes air and ground based energy systems in unison and at some frequency. This apparently modifies energy fields at ground level with the result being profound growth of any plant thing in the effected area. If I am not mistaken, Bedini himself reported similar results in some of his own EB experiments. Quantum agriculture is the phrase being used and the devices called quantum agriculture broadcasters. Such concepts in agriculture are shunned in the USA but more readily accepted in Australia / New Zealand. In reading all of these things initially, my opinion was low. I have changed this opinion since my education of ground energy. So my mind is quite open to things in general. I am glad to hear of a common person (you) having success with it. I will certainly try this. Show me the gold, show me the gold.....oops, I meant ground energy

Best regards to all,

MW383

MW383

Quote from: MW383 on November 02, 2009, 05:50:15 PM
Would an old fashioned commutator work? They are available new and real cheap.

Something I have been trying to duplicate in ground experiments. Not successful as of yet. Tishatang is getting all over this subject now and I work overtime in building an understanding.

Yes, because I have been busy collecting waste cooking oil from restaurants. Burning it in Turk Burners cool but using it in something like you propose would be better use of the fuel. I admit to having way too many alternative energy hobbies..... You may have already guessed this but judging by your many pictures you are in the same boat!

Regards,

MW383

The answer is "Yes", BUT you would need to make alterations to the communicator copper segments.

If you were thinking about using a starter or generator (Lucas gear comes to mind), then you need to understand the wiring configuration to modify the communicator so adjacent segments do not short out each other.
The Generator communicator is configured in such a way that there is a slight overlap occurs as the copper segments rotate under the carbon brush, the brush will bridge both segments for a split second.

This is done to avoid sparking, but its main function is to keep the magnetic field under the N and S poles from misplacement.

If the magnetic field was allowed to change at the wrong position while the armature was revolving, then it just would not be able to function, so the communicator rotor does all this switching automatically.

To use the communicator as a make or break only as a switch, then we need to do is to cut away adjustment copper bars, this will allow the rotating  armature to become a simple switch.

Once you have removed the difficult to remove bars, (remember they are designed to overcome high centrifugal forces), you must fill the space with an insulator so the rotating "gap" as it were, does not allow the carbon brush to fall into the vacant space, snapping the brush off in the process and breaking everything.

Then if you have managed to do this successfully, there is the huge problem of keeping a rotating mechanical device at the required sync with the telleric waves as they pass by your pickup coil/s, a spinning mass has kinetic energy, depending how fast the switch is rotating will depend on how much energy you need to alter at any given instant in time.

Forget about the system the Tesla coil builders use, I refer to their rotating spark gaps they use to set frequency by RPM speeds, this simply will not work on a stubblefield system unless one finds a very steady stream of telleric current stream.

So Stubblefield settled on the old solenoid principle of a vibrating metal switch, held vertical.
As the teleric wave passed his coils, it was sensed, the output would have travelled up to his small switch arrangement and triggered it to open at just the right moment in time.
So think the best device is the to use the principle that stubblefield used, at least you will know for sure you should get somewhere.
   

Once, I really did manage to use a joule thief to power a highly modified relay coil.
I looked for a very sensitive relay, the coil was wound with the smallest wire, many many turns, then I took it apart and using fine needle nose pliers I rearranged the contacts to be closed at the closest I could get it physically to the iron pole of the electro magnet,  with out actually touching the pole itself.

I got it to work just a couple of times, with the finest air gap and I saw a tiny spark, then it stopped working.

The above photo of yours is the way to go, as you have a adjustment screw, this will give you a head start, but you will also need some adjustment of the tension as well, there will need to be a balancing of the amount of spring tension, the stronger the spring, the harder the coil must work to overcome this tension.

jim
         

@ All
MW383 is on the way to achieving his goul, as he has understood we all need a make and breaker to run the Stubblefield coils.
See his photo he has supplied, well done.
 
The below photo shows my idea of a suitable way to setup a home made relay that can switch on and off when used with the Stubblefield coil.

This when made, MUST be held in the vertical position for it to operate correctly as gravity is used in its operation as well.

Build this on a sheet of wood or plastic to keep stray magnetic fields from influencing it.

The long pointer (beam) is made from any very stiff or solid material as long as it is NOT iron or steel.
The longer and lighter the better, as it becomes more sensitive with length.

Make a hinge hole on this beam arm, about 1/3 length from the top.
Make a small hole at the top of this beam arm. Later you secure either 2 horizontal small springs or a single vertical spring with an adjustment for tension purposes.

Glue a tiny weak magnet at the extreme end of the beam.
Make a coil up from a small nail, experiment with different sizes to get the best effect.
Make some brackets, from hard plastic, heat with flowing steam over a jug spout, (find a kettle to boil continuously), or make them from thin plywood and brass screws and wood glue.

You need to make up at least 2 small bits of tin about 1/4" inch by 1/2", if you cam make them smaller then all well and good.
These are soldering points and voltage transfer points. (make a few more while you are at it, save doing it all again).

To do this, grab a tin of cat food, throw the food at the kitty, well you are in a hurry, you are excited to make this, (gently lol), wash the empty tin, grab the scissors/tin sheers, try to cut a sliver of tin.
(A tin of Peas, spaghetti) is another source etc etc.

Using your soldering iron wet solder a small area on only 1 side, glue the tin to the beam arm where you decide is the right spot.
Place the this contact up fairly close, but not too close to the fulcrum point where the arm axle is.

Get the "idle jet" adjustment screw out of an old lawnmower or car carburetor, if it hasn't got a sharp point on it, file one on the end, then make up another rightangle bracket , drill some mounting holes and another hole for the adjustment screw.
If you got a nut with the idle screw, its even better, as you can glue the nut to the bracket.
Tin a small section on the nut.
Place this bracket assembly so the point touches the tin you glued on the beam arm.
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HOW TO MAKE A FLAT COPPER SPRING
Make a small tiny spring, like old clocks have under the tic/toc action flywheel, ask a watch maker if he can let you have a bamboo spring out of a broken old time watch.

If you can't get one, make your own.
Grab some very fine copper wire and gently twist in a single flat spiral.

or, grab a long threaded small bolt with nut.
You need 2 wide washers the same size.
and 1 small washer smaller that the 2 bigger ones, and as thin as the copper wire.

Grab a Big washer and drill a small 1mm hole in its side very close to where the smallest washer outside edge would be if the smaller washer was placed directly over the large washer. De-burr the hole.

Put this washer on the bolt loosly.
Next, put the small washer onto the threaded bolt
Put the last big washer onto the threaded rod,.

Put the nut all the way to the end of the threaded bolt, tighten the nut.
Grab the small wire, feed about 3" through the hole in the 1st washer, and wind 7 to 10 turns on the middle washer.
over the outside edge of the small washer.

leave about 3" of free flying lead
Carefully undo the nut and dissemble the washers, the spiral copper coil will present itself to you.
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Tin contacts, attach one end of the copper spiral to the tin on a separate bracket, the inside spiral end is glued to the pivot central, don't block the hole with glue.

Solder a small wire to another small tin section and glue this on the beam arm where you think you will be placing the idle screw bracket assembly.
You need a brass adjustment screw that actually touches the contact on the beam arm

Make the actual solenoid itself now, the easiest way to do this is to gutt a tiny solenoid or relay, a surface mount relay should be suitable, but it must have a rating of 1 volt at most or even less.
Remember this coil is being powered by the output of the stubblefield coil, which is almost nothing.

I might dream up a very high gain circuit to do this later on to help this coil to switch on.
 
Now fit the tiny coil on a small bracket and put it close to the tiny magnetic.

Now here is how I want it to work, say for instance the tiny magnet is glued to the end of the swinging beam arm, say the "S" pole is glued to the beam arm, so the "N" pole is presented to the electro coil, being iron the magnet is attracted to the iron armature, the brass idle screw must at this stage be making contact above the the coil, to complete this circuit.

As the teleric field passes the stubblefield coil in the ground, it sends a tiny voltage up to the relay coil via the contact and spring you wound, as the field passes the stubblefield coil, it intensifies the output, which makes the coil field stronger and stronger until the magnetic field in the tiny coil overcomes the magnetic attraction of the magnetic and so it pushes the beam arm away.
In the process the contact points on the beam arm open, there should be a tiny spark, the circuit is broken and since there is no opposing field in the tiny coil, the tiny magnetic is attracted again to the iron in the tiny coil, which pulls the swing beam arm back towards the coil, and so the whole action is repeated over and over again.

This will become self regulation, and will keep automatically in sync with the output of the stubblefield coil.

All the adjustments of the spring tension-er, electrical gap adjustment, and the magnetic gap adjustments are necessity, so you have total control on the working of this critical Stubblefield starter.

jim
   

Hi everyone,
I just posted my design for a new engine here on this thread.

http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=7769.new#new

I did it here to keep it out of this thread, maybe Stefan can make a separate thread for it when he is ready, as I don't know how to do it.

jim electricme inventor of the DUDGEON ENGINE

Jim:

I started a topic for you here:

http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=8247.new#new

Bill