@ conradelectro,
Thank you for your well made discription of the building materials on the stubblefield coil.
I have one question, which is, how would one bend mica without it snapping? I am referring to the mica which is used in those old toasters of years gone by.

Maybe there is a process avaliable to make it soft, I know the old Birko soldering irons used rolled mica as insulation.

@ lasersaber,
Now why did I not think of using colours to isolate the different wires as you have shown above,     that coloured diagram is way easier on the eyes than just the black and white monochrome ones, excellent work.

jim

I would not use mica. The secondary will nowadays be wound with enameled copper wire (lacquer on the copper, in the US they call this "magnet wire"), which one buys some where (e.g. Farnell)

PRO POWER - ECW0.4 - WIRE, COPPER ENAMELLED, 27SWG (www.farnell.com)
Manufacturer: PRO POWER
Order Code: 1230978
Manufacturer Part Number: ECW0.4

Or in case one wants thinner wire:

PRO POWER - ECW0.2 - WIRE, COPPER ENAMELLED, 35SWG (www.farnell.com)
Manufacturer: PRO POWER
Order Code:1230974
Manufacturer Part Number: ECW0.2

I would insulate the core with heatshrink tubing (www.farnell.com)

SPC TECHNOLOGY - FPFA-016-6016 AST - Flame-Retardant Heat-Shrink Tubing Assortment
Manufacturer: SPC TECHNOLOGY
Order Code: 1845950
Manufacturer Part Number: FPFA-016-6016

Between the secondary and the primary I would use some household plastic foil.

The cotton cloth (for the primary) should be as pure as possible (wash it before use). Buy it in a store for healthy clothing, white cotton cloth. Buy some bed linen.

The cotton coating around the copper wire of the primary is crucial. I think the source for this wire as given by LaserSaber http://wires.co.uk/acatalog/dcc_wire.html is optimal. Getting cotton wrapped copper wire is not easy, because nowadays everybody is using some plastic coating as insulation.

One could use bare copper wire and sew (with a sewing maschine) a sleeve of cotton on it. The sleeve can be too big and loose. But this is some real tinkering, I will order the cotton covered copper wire from Great Britain.

125g 0.9mm Double Cotton Covered Copper Wire  Ref: dc0900-125 (eight rolls = 1 kilo)
http://wires.co.uk/acatalog/dcc_wire.html

and

1kg 0.9mm Galvanised Iron Wire  Ref: IR0900G-1000 (one kilo)
http://wires.co.uk/acatalog/fe_galv.html

For the core I will also use the galvanised iron wire, putting up to 20 rods of this wire together in a bundle fixing them tight with the heatshrink tubing.

Greetings, Conrad

(P.S.: I am not a sales person from Farnell, but they are a good source for electronic components and they sell in small quantities. You have to order via a company/store, because they do not sell to private individuals, which I think is super stupid of them.)

Quote from: Pardon on March 23, 2010, 01:26:43 AM
Hello all
I have made many tests today after adding a secondary to my coil. so far i have nothing to report that is of any use but it has failed. i can not see any voltage on the secondary. it may be to large of wire size and not long enough. it about 25 feet long.

going back to the ls video. this has been bugging me all day. i have done everything i can do to figure out how to get a voltage across a wire to display on my meter. without adding some kind of resistance, or increase of power. so i am thinking if he did not add anything to the coil but he can display a meter reading either volts or amps. then something in the coil it self is making this change. so i am asking is this one of the stublefield secrets of the coil.

also i am thinking my center bolt may not be as soft as i thought it was. and that may be why i do not have very good readings.

one of the positive things i found out was , if i pulse the coil then stop pulsing it the voltage stays in the coil and slowly gos down taking about a minute to get back to normal. so it is acting kinda like a cap.

In LS video doesn't he tell us there is no voltage but a magnetic field set up?
I have gotten voltage from my secondaries, so I do know it works.
I never saw it til I had my scope, however.
It is a spike.
(This is why I personally had to stop with this coil until I had done much research with spikes through experiments on the joule thief.
Remember I used a NS coil as the toroid in a jtc, and it worked splendidly.)

So Dennis,
I suggest you pulse the 5,6 with a scope on the secondary wires.
If you do not have a scope, you might not be able to see this spike. A dmm cannot sense most of the good spikes. But maybe they can sense a hand pulsed one.
If no scope try this:
Make a bridge rectifier (or buy one) and put a cap across the output leads and measure the output that the cap can receive.
I guess you need to pulse it for a minute.
Use a cap from a disposable camera for this job.

This will only prove to you that it works.

We are, again dealing with spikes.
I personally think this is what we need to address. = How to get something from voltage spikes without amps.

The really cool thing about LS motor is that, like the bedini motor, it is turning something on a shaft, and this can translate to something we know how to use.
I am waiting for a small motor I just bought that will get my hands making a motor driven by a reed switch. Once I have made that I am sure I will be able to translate it into this NS coil motor etc...
http://www.simplemotor.com/rsmotor.htm

thank you,

jeanna

Mica can increase induction. You can make a mica slurry and cover the outside and let it harden if wanted. NS may not have known that mica had inductive property's. But its still not mandatory for the coil to work. 
"The inside of ring A is coated with mica in order to increase the induction and also to allow higher potentials to be used".
http://en.wikisource.org/wiki/Alternate_Current_Electrostatic_Induction_Apparatus

Laser used 350 feet of wire. I personally think there is a minimum size for the Electromagnetic field in order for this coil to work in conjunction with the earths telluric currents  . NS stated many turns of wire. The pictures Ive seen are fairly large coils.

Cotton should be used on the core and not plastic. You would lose some of the  dielectric property's with plastic.

Lasers coil is the closest to specs Ive seen. Technically its simple to build. The hard part is the location and trigger. The location is paramount as NS knew.

With all the press coverage NS had with the renowned Tesla, does anyone really think that this coil doesn't work!

Big question! What are the dimensions of a good Stubblefield coil? (For some reasons I do not understand, I did not find any clear specifications of the coils which have been built by the posters in this thread. Height, width, number of windings, dimensions of the wires used, dimensions of the core?)

Let’s do some calculations based on the Stubblefield patent US600457. Of course one can not be sure whether the dimensions in the figures of this patent are accurate. But let’s take the figures as they are, we do not have more at the moment.

See the calculations in the attached drawing.

Greetings, Conrad