Well well, we have 2 newly blistered gents! 
Bravo, this a great club to join, welcome...

Jim, I think you have a really good chance to see at least a little action on your coil by removing the varnish from the copper. I would guess it could be enhanced by a layer of wet cloth just to keep the small galvanics going.

All this action today just might get me to make my coil on a welding rod. I did buy a box of them last week, but I was kind of thinking I could find something better. Now, I am not so sure , and maybe the thinness of the welding rod will just save me a little wire.
3/32 of an inch is pretty thin. I dunno.

Anyway,
congratulations hoverdj and Jim!

Jim,
When I made that little reed switch motor, they had me only wrap the leading wire around the thin leads of the reed switch to avoid any solder. That little motor works like a dream too.

Also, since lasersaber seems busy I will say that it was easy to see that the led on his secondary went on and off. It really did work just as stubblefield said it should.
He connected the reed switch between the 5 and 6 wires and left the 10's open and the secondary lit the light with a stream of flashes. It is cool to see.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZuQGuXJ02fo just in case

jeanna

Thanks for clearing up the permeability issue with the iron gang...this stuff is really intriguing.

Regards...

@ jeanna,

Quote from: jeanna on April 28, 2010, 01:33:38 AM
All this action today just might get me to make my coil on a welding rod. I did buy a box of them last week, but I was kind of thinking I could find something better. Now, I am not so sure , and maybe the thinness of the welding rod will just save me a little wire.
3/32 of an inch is pretty thin. I dunno.

Also, since lasersaber seems busy I will say that it was easy to see that the led on his secondary went on and off. It really did work just as stubblefield said it should.
He connected the reed switch between the 5 and 6 wires and left the 10's open and the secondary lit the light with a stream of flashes. It is cool to see.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZuQGuXJ02fo just in case

jeanna

OK, the welding rods first, if you need to remove the coating (the stuff glued around the welding rods) just soak a few rods in a container of water for a couple of days, and it'l just fall off, if you are in a hurry to do this, lay each rod on the concrete and hit it with a hammer, wear eye protection as it might get a bit exciting with stuff flying about.

I have just been looking at the NS coil lasersaber posted on UT, it seems to be running dosent it, but he is getting the LED to fire when the collapse of the magnetic field happens as the magnet on the rotating disk passes the reed switch. I have no problems with this, as his coil is the sole source of energy, which is amazing all by itself.

@all,

I have just modified my stubblefield coil by giving it feet to make it more stable, I got a bit tired chasing it rolling around.
I also added a 4 way nylon junction terminal strip on the 5-s and 10s, I didn't want to take any chances of a wire fracture, now I can experiment more easily with it.

jim

2556 = Termination block screwed to wooden end
2567 = Coil grows FEET
2568 = Coil sprouts connection wires.

@ hoverdj,

Nice work on your coil calculator, well done and I appreceate the effort you must of put into it.

jim

Quote from: electricme on April 28, 2010, 10:09:26 AM
@ hoverdj,

Nice work on your coil calculator, well done and I appreceate the effort you must of put into it.

jim

Thanks Jim. Part of what I enjoy about this endeavor is learning all the supporting stuff. Like that funky Sum symbol in the written equation I posted. I've seen it in movies and books (and in MSWord) but never knew what it meant or how to use it. Now I do. Coolness!

BTW, what's a "mossie?"