@jeanna

Nice work , did you get any reading do they compare to Laser saber version.

I mist the wire size , the core seems like a 1/4 inch bolt ?

Only 10 degree , are you using the same type of globe compass ?
Was it sitting in front of the core same height ?

Are you still have motor issue , if yes maybe you are using a different reed switch , real important is the switch normally state , switch ON at rest or regularly OFF , some have both connections . I think you need a normally on switch .

Keep the great work !

Also hate you seen Lidmotor with the cap ? this is great i wonder how high the cap will go ! Do you know of any scope video on the NS ?

Mark

New video with scope shot , from Lidmotor
http://www.youtube.com/user/Lidmotor#p/a/u/0/MGwylnFvfZo

The picture is from Lid Scope shot , if we can recapture the second positive spike when it normalize , we could charge a cap that cap would make the Ns coil stronger with each kick , i am not sure a super cap is the right idea there smaller high voltage cap should do best until something breaks , i mean the switch .

Quote from: Mk1 on June 18, 2010, 10:12:19 PM
@jeanna

Nice work , did you get any reading do they compare to Laser saber version.

I mist the wire size , the core seems like a 1/4 inch bolt ?

Thanks.
I have readings that compare to Lasersaber's, but after his second row, he just said he expected a few things, and yes, I sort of have those amounts.
What was not happening until this last row was any magnetic movement like his.

QuoteOnly 10 degree , are you using the same type of globe compass ?
Was it sitting in front of the core same height ?

I have a swivel type compass like his but it does not stand  by itself.
I made a small video of the movement today. I could upload it here because it is 4 Mb and is an avi file.
the swing is in the middle of what he showed us.
I asked him but have not heard back, but I think I will be OK.

the placement is not so critical which is a relief, too.

QuoteAre you still have motor issue , if yes maybe you are using a different reed switch , real important is the switch normally state , switch ON at rest or regularly OFF , some have both connections . I think you need a normally on switch .

I got some tiny neo magnets to glue onto a dvd.
the rotor is a dvd motor and has a nice quick response.

I have problems with stupid things like how to get the motor to be stable and yet be able to move it around.
And, looking at the different ways other people have solved this for themselves has helped a lot.
(I really love youtube for this reason.)

QuoteAlso have you seen Lidmotor with the cap ? this is great i wonder how high the cap will go ! Do you know of any scope video on the NS ?

Do you mean the mosquito light?
The one with a cap and no resistor at all?
I am anxious to make one of these, but so far, I have not found the right cap and I made the pete AA instead. 

In fact, lidmotor has uploaded a scope shot of his still working NS coil.
It is very unusual, because the backspike is visibly longer than the front spike.
He talks a bit about the capacitance of the coil and other ideas.
It is a good one. I have wanted to see this scopeshot for a very long time.

here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGwylnFvfZo

jeanna

Nice Pirate! These meters have been around a long time but Naudins is the simplest and cheapest Ive seen on the net.

Im still thinking spark gap to kick in the switch since a low voltage spark gap has a more intense magnetic field than a high voltage one. It could alternate the iron core on and off. Plus the radiant energy from the "spark" gap would be introduced into the coil itself even at a distance. I would assume a cap would be needed for the spark gap. I would like to hear thoughts or ideas on this. Even a wiring diagram.
I have a question for those who have made a magnetic wheel for this. On your magnets are you using the same pole to activate the reed switch or have you alternated the poles? Im just wondering if alternating poles would help stop permanent magnetization of the iron core. Im having a problem visualizing polarity without using 2 coils. Also the magnetic polarity of a spark gap.     

I finished row 7 on my #14 NS coil! yeay!

Yesterday I got a new unexploded 1 ohm resistor and I can now read the amps available from this coil.
So, if I use the 2 inside ends, the ones NS called the 10's, the  measurement is 5mA.
Something made me try the outside iron with the inside copper.
The reading there is 6.6mA
but it kept going UP
!!
(usually this makes a device go down, but it rose to 7.2mA and kept going.
I have a faint memory of Lasersaber telling us this from his, so ...
I guess things are going OK.
I also just spliced on the 3rd length of iron wire. I could only get it in 50 foot lengths.
And it appears that I might be able to wind 9 rows before I get to the end of this wire, and at just about the place where I drilled the holes based on the 2" diameter lasersaber used.

Now, taking a break,    I think I will place some mini neo magnets around the edge of the motor rotor.

@yodi,
On my reed switch motor kit, I was instructed to make all the S face out. Then the coil had to be turned to be pulsing the S back toward the S of those magnets to push the motor along. If it is facing the wrong way, the magnets will attract the pulsing core and stop it.

jeanna

@jeanna: That would be right with that setup. Its the coils field actually turning the mag motor not the other way around.