shylow:

Welcome over here.  Check out Electricme's posts somewhere about 8 months ago or so where he placed his electrodes in series and got like 40-60 vdc.  I am not sure exactly where that was but it is on the more recent end of this topic as opposed to the beginning.

Bill

@shylo,

Looks like you got some frustration, with your rods in the earth, like all those who came before you.
Only way I can explain this is the earth is a "single" entity, so only 1 set of electrodes work. They can put out up to 1.5volts in rare times, but I think this is a location thing which produces such volts.

I think a number of rods in the earth could work, if there was some means electronically of doing this. My theory would be to set up a heep of rods in the earth, then common up all the negatives together, each Positive seperatly loading a small value capacitor, then use a IC to switch to each positive rod in turn which could "dump" the energy inside the capacitor into a single large FARAD capacitor or charge up a battery, then use the energy accumulated.

Only my theory of course, but no ones tried this before here, it may work, it may not work, but from where I'm looking at it, there seems to be a better chance of it working than not.

I did get as Bill has said up to 60 volts out of my EER setup in my back yard, I found I had to insulate every cell with plastic insulation tape, also the bottom of the tube, if I had more copper pipe and zinc nails, I would have achieved an even higher voltage.

To get enough energy to drive a single white LED, I had to divide the cells up into Series / parallel arrangement, the LED was blindingly bright at times, but I was always having to put water into each cell to make it work. It is galvanic, a bit like voltares many disks in brine (I think) but this was in dirt.
I'm beginning to think it's the humble water molocule where the energy lies.

Somehow it can pull the electrons out of one metal and put them onto another metal, in the process the electricity is made.
Don't hold me on this, only my idea and could be wrong.

jim

Hi Jim......thats amazing ,when you say "insulate with plastic tape"is this electrical tape?....the cell being, galv-,copper+, inside a plastic tube? I have an arteasion well could put my cells in it, saving have to add water continously.....I've been looking for your earlier post ,but haven't found it yet, this site is very slow for me since I'm on dial -up......and I agree Ithink the answer is in the water......thanx......shylo

@shylo,

Thats right, use electrical insulation tape on the outside of each copper cell.
You must seal the bottom of each cell also, if you don't the electricity in the cell will "leak" away to earth, any other cell not insulated in this way will also leak away to earth.

If you "flood" the cells in water, they will not work properly, the same thing occurs with the Stubblefield cell too, as Lasersaber has found out, it needs a happy medium to work, between wet and dry.

If you want to have amps from this type of setup, you will need to make each cell larger, how big I don't know, at a guess, about 2 to 3 feet long, and you would need to aquire a zink nail that long too, but it stands to reason that is the way to success.

As far as I understand, I hold the voltage record for a EER cells since 2009, at 66 volts DC. Anyone reading this is welcome to break this record, if they wish to do so.
I might even try to break my own record ha ha, but I want to finish making some machinery 1st though.


jim

@all,

Today I decided it was time to begin work on my Stubblefield coil winding machine, so I threw some iron pipe together, and it holds the blank stubblefield former between ends.
I made the main frame so it can be adjustable from 7" coils to 24 inch coils.
The nut from the center bolt on the empty Stubblefield former near the wooden end, fits into a sidchrome socket, which I welded a nut which attaches to the horizontal main drive shaft.

On the other side of the business of the Stubblefield coil (the adjustable attachment)is a threaded rod with a tightening handle to put pressure to the end of the bolt which goes through the middle of the Stubblefield coil.

This threaded rod is machined down to a 1/4 stubby shaft, which goes into a mating hole in the Stubblefield main bolt.

I found I will need to cut the support posts down a bit as it sticks up way too high, maby I should leave it there, hmmm.....

Next step is to attache it to a table of sorts, then attach a PWM drive motor to the center drive shaft, got some figuring out to do now.

See the attached photos, excuse the mess please.

jim