Quote from: gmeast on November 14, 2010, 11:51:41 PM
If the elements get 'cold' then the "Negacaptret" would be a 'negative' device.

Well, I have a dead NiMH battery hooked to 250V 47uF cap, case fed back to -.  Presently at 0.3591VDC.  It's a 'hidave fast charger'.  We'll see what happens  by morning.  It's 9:20 PM mountain time.

at 10:00 PM mountain time the Captret is at 0.3631 VDC. The heater went on in the room and I thought that may account for part of it, so I looked at the curve for the NIMH battery for capacity vs temperature and it really can't account for the rise, so ibpointless2, I am feelin' the self charger but not the led driver.

Greg

Here's my latest captret charger, this one Rocks.

When draining the charged battery, there's more joules than conventional battery!.

Can't do test, someone please replicate and post data.

Same circuit for Lead Acid Battery capret, I have made 4 x 1 gallon size electrolytic capacitor, it's pretty crazy!!!, will post more info soon.

Don't just read, get tinkering.

Free Energy is here.

oops, here's the right one. You dont need Spdt switch if you dont have one..

Just pull out the LED and hook up Cap - to anywhere on the side of the caps.

All the batteries I've charged with Captret have been alkaline, the throw away kine. I have not over charged a battery, but I'm gonna find out what happens soon 

Battery is very cold when being charged.

Note:
Do not drain your battery to below 60%, you can still charge them but the will take forever.

A 9 volt was drained to 5.0 as requested by ibpointless, it took 24 hrs just to reach 7.5v with my new captret self charger.

Drain batteries 9v to no less than 7v, and they'll charge in 3 hrs. Much faster charge time on AAA and AA.

Try em, post result.

this got deleted?

DIY low cost Large Electrolytic Capacitor

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USE PRECAUTION - Wear gloves, mask, eye goggles etc, Use Safety and Common Sense. I am not LIABLE for anything.

It is possible to construct a very large electrolytic cap quite easily.

Materials:
2 - Roll of paper - I use brown kraft paper, must withhold wet fluid. I soak paper in electrolyte for about 1 hr to get good saturation.
3 - Roll of Aluminium Foil (2 rolls thickest ones you can find, 1 roll thinnest one you can find)
Electrolyte - 50% Antifreeze
ribbon wire or you can cut a strip of thin copper sheet 1/6" wide +- depending on cap size
12 ga insulated wire for post.
Empty can with lid (paint can Hardware Store, remove inside paint with wire brush or paint strip acid, recycle canned food, aluminum soda cans etc. - best result with aluminum) .2" taller than paper.

Soak paper in electrolyte for 1 hour to ensure good saturation.

Start rolling 1 layer of paper and make a coil of about .5" thick, then double up the thick aluminium and add to coil creating a spiral coil - bi-filar, Foil must be shorter than paper about .5" is good as to avoid shorting if it contacts the top of the metal enclosure. Keep the coil as tight as possible, when coil thickness is large enough to pass hole on cap, attach your ribbon wire or copper strip and tape securely with cellophane tape. Wire runs down from top to bottom of coil at 90 degrees. Make one more turn then add second layer of paper, one more turn then add the layer of thinner foil. A few turns then atach ribbon wire in the same manner and secure. Now make enough of the coil to fill the can leaving .2" space when placed inside the can. Wrap the outside of the coil with cellophane tape securely and place in can. Solder ribbon to conduction post.

Ensuring that the wire cuts down at 90 degrees perpendicular to the coil, just like in a electrolytic cap. Drill 2 holes on can cap, hole size to tightly fit conduction wire. Cap the bottom end to prevent leakage. Tape cap down securely with aluminium tape etc to make sure it is air tight.

Hook up to a battery, test for polarity and mark on the can.


Pesto, Ultra captret