You need an inverter to control the flow of energy in the loop without losses or least minimising them. Simply taking the o/p back to the i/p rarely works. Either the device goes into uncontrollably feedback and blows the coils and diodes etc or the impedance is unmatched therefore the transfer of energy  drops below OU due to this serious impedance mismatch or often the case of major DC offset potentials between the in and out stages.

Only very naive  people yell "well put the o/p back to the i/p then you can loop it" means they have no idea of the issues involved.

A switching inverter can control the flow of energy in the loop at very high efficiency. Linear regulators lose far too much power.   Other systems include Pi Tanks, T Tanks,  passive and active pulsed balum splitters, passive capacitors filters, bucket brigade delays, and capacitor pulsed discharge, mechanical feedback as motor genset belt looping completed about 4 years ago as RV looped 120 Watt self power mower details published here on OU.com or energy proxies like HHO RV looped in Sweden. RV drove a 3 phase generator to HHO cell to a Fuel cell to make watts to run inverter that ran the RV.  Informed was looped but details sketchy. To much other stuff to list here but they are some examples.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8G3kfcIl09o
New TESLA SERBIAN! Milutin Miletich is a retired technology engineer (not electrical), , he has invented something extraordinary. Alternating current is filtered and flows through ONE wire only and powers a classic light bulb. His words are that he was able to join positive, negative and the ground into one electrical flow, and that is not all - human can hold the wire without any problems! The power is 220V in Serbia (you can see in the video that he is using the regular power supply), and 220V powers the light bulb, so voltage stays the same.
There are no sparks, the power is totally safe, even you cut the wire, the flow will stop but without any sparks. So safety is one of the greatest benefits.
He says that he was able to make sure that no electrons would escape the wire. His claim is also that there are significant (drastic) savings in power consumptions (he is using it for his water heater and thermal blanket). He also says that this type of current can heat the wire up to 1000C and be used as a heater, and that all high voltage cables could be replaced with a much smaller profile wire. He also claims that this setup can be adjusted so that 5Kw flows through 1mm wire. With slightly bigger profiles, much more power could be used.
He says he had worked on this patent for 20 years, and it is now being evaluated by the patent office.

in reply to milion doallar question- there is no DC cap power was rectifeid inot, just the AC cap in series working as high bypass filter whatever you want to call it...was only using meter in AC for those numbers
this was crazy testing - 5 coils in series, all out of phase jsut looking at getting no-reflecion when I short out those coils with ammeter and its easy with that AC series cap.
But a DC cpa filling up will have around 30V in it, before hittling load (2nd motor or opposite coil bank is plan)
One good way to hide overunity is to put a resistive load like enginners "require" straight acorss everything all the time.

Acutally you want a two-stage porcess, in that caps fill up with no resistance, and cap hits load when cap is disconncted from the source (genrator coils) so abluolutely no refleciton to motor-draw when caps hit load this way....only "strain" on motor is filling up the caps

the drop in cap voltage in cap will depend on pulse widht, ohms of resistance, pulse frequency, size of cap....

so think in that way - if I measured the voltage acorss a DC cap when it is also shorted out with "dead short"at same time obviously its near zero volts. and so what?
that is what specific resistve loading is for, but this isnt "right" either - its a "two stage" cap filling, cap idschage routine I am looking for and doing

if you put a resistive load on cap whin it fills up you KILL IT...jsut like coil shorting...

I thnk romeors pulseing to his motor coils is sort of out of synch thing going on thanks to the odd vos even coils/magnets so the resistve loading isnt "direct' (just theory)

gotoluc,  I beleive Romero said he gave that a brief try initially and either blew up some coils or almost fried some.
Layman interpretation of what bolt said:
More power out than in looped = more power out = more power in = more power out = more power in = POOF  followed by magic smoke display      

Hi Luc,

I do not know if Doug has used two low charged batteries in series to have the 22V input to the motor part or he use a variable DC power supply.
Just think this over: if you change input voltage to a pulse motor, its RPM changes, in most cases an increase in input voltage causes an increase in RPM. This RPM increase mainly involves higher induced voltage in the generator part of the setup, eventually a gradually increasing process can start and if the increments are high then a run-away process developes in minutes or even in seconds and the setup usually burns down.

In case of low charged batteries you are RIGHT: no real need for a DC-DC converter to bring a voltage stabilizer into the loop, the batteries themselves are excellent 'voltage regulators' because their output voltage do not increase fast at all even if you charge them heavily, at least not increase in seconds but in many minutes and then you can have time to interact if needed (as you referred to). 

The moment you take out the batteries from the setup, you simply remove the 'runaway break' and the looped back setup gets uncontrolled. A stabilizer is a must in any looped system! Stabilizer can act for voltage or current, it depends on your setup to be looped what kind you use.
(If you build an oscillator, the 'stabilizer' is the inherent non-linear voltage-current characteristic of the active device itself, or you can use a voltage or current limiter inside the circuit to take care of a controlled feedback.)

rgds,  Gyula

Quote from: gotoluc on June 15, 2011, 10:04:14 AM
Hi Gyula,

I'm trying to understand why a DC to DC converter would even be needed to create a loop

If Doug's input of 22v is coming from 2 low charged 12v batteries in series, then to me the 30v output could just be directly connected back to the input batteries. The little extra voltage the output has will be converted to amps in the batteries. When charging 12v batteries the voltage can go up to a maximum of 15v (per battery) so the 30v should be fine to 2 batteries in series without damage. To me the numbers look close enough to just go direct!... don't you think so?

In any event, if the batteries do climb higher he can always add a load (light bulb) of the correct draw to keep the recharge voltage to the batteries at the ideal level.

Thanks for sharing

Luc