Quote from: k4zep on June 17, 2011, 10:06:33 PM
Hi All,

I'm still testing but in my very sensitive machine, I do not find any Lenz reduction using a cap. in series with the coils and the
bridge, feeding a 68000uf cap with a 100 ohm load (50mA @ 5VDC) on the 68000 cap.  Anywhere between 2.5uf and 100uf series Capacatance, increments of 2.5uf, I find only a reduction in output along with and including an increase in Lenz/loading (lower RPM) on the rotor.  I could be wrong, but a load is a load is a load.  I will continue testing tomorrow but that is my initial findings. 
snip
Respectfully
Ben K4ZEP

Ben, thanks for the confirmation!  This was my finding last year on Doug's Muller and again this year on Romero's. The series cap at these low MFDs is only a current limiter.

Rgds, Ron

Quote from: neptune on June 17, 2011, 01:27:43 PM
Did you make the hole in your thumb removing the end cap?

... man! that's funny.

Thanks for sharing some humor

Luc

Quote from: erikbuch on June 17, 2011, 05:23:49 PM
Thanks alot Laurent! Allready been over at mr Lenz for a visit, but I'm not planning on staying there for long ;-)
@Bolt: I'm not so known in the world of electronics as a lot of you guys here are, so I was wondering, what kind of capacitors should we try. Not electrolyte caps if I am getting this right. I was searching for ac caps, but there where alot of types to choose from. Will audio caps do? ceramic? Polyester film? Polypropylene? Some where called motor caps, they where square shaped.
Sorry for my lack of knowlage

(Maybe a flux-capasitor will do it :-) Well, that will just take me back to the future )

Best regards
Erik

Anything designed for AC will work you probably need AC polypropylene film capacitor they are often yellow or blue blocks used as motor suppression caps in brushed motors. if you buy new you can keep the cost down going for 63v rated instead of 250v but this might restrict you in the future when you go bigger up in size and better rigs. Then tend only to go up to about 5uf so you need to gang them up for more uf. They are quite expensive about a euro/buck each so if you need 100uf at 5uf increment = 20 bucks by 10 coils that's 200 bucks worth of caps. If you are really desperate using electrolytic  back to back to make an AC cap out of them but never do this for mains voltages. Low voltage muller stuff might be ok for a while but don't be surprised if they go bang.

OR you can use motor run caps they are not cheap either to buy new like 25 bucks for 50uf but the AC voltage is going to be 350-450VAC so they are future proof for anything you might likely come across. What you really need to make for all your AC tuning stuff is a Binary Cap box made from Run Caps. Inside this big box you put like 1, 2 4 8 16 32 64uf caps 450VAC then use good switches like 20A breakers. From this binary combination you got a good tuning range within 1uf.

Now you got a full AC motor tuning kit for power factoring RV, Air Con system pumps, freezers, pool pumps, mega large mullers etc.  Once you found the correct size you fit a permanent cap in the required position.

who said free energy was free? ...'king expensive.

.

chris C wrote;

"
Much appreciate your postings and results, I am also following Bolt's recommendation of using series non-polarized caps with shorted FWBR DC outputs to tune for max. input ac current. I have gotten around close to 200mA for the test coil when shorted but my series capacitance is something like 15 microFarads! Well, if I can get 8 coils to sum 1.6A that would be a great start

My question is the size of non-polarized capacitors with rated 250V voltages  are about 1.5" x 0.5" x 1" ! Can I series up 2 electrolytics with their common polarities connected (positive t positive) to effectively use it as a non polarized capacitor yet maintaining some kind of effective working voltages without a whole bank of parallel large polarized caps. in series? This is what old ham radio people used to do."

Kone replies:

I have put DC type of electolyctic caps back to back in rotovertor testing - had idea to pulse one then ohter out to get DC from AC easy no diodes it worked sort of but those caps got hot with themselves back to back while the normal oil-filled rotovertor run caps didnt ever get hot - I think if you really want or need to do this, you should have some diodes in between the back to back DC caps to protect them for backsurges or whatever was causing the heat. Someon said once that some AC caps are nothing more than two back to back DC types, attached at grounds but I dont know for sure about anything - I would follow Bolts advice - Faustos video is good proof it really works.