I would like to try one of those 3-pin Schottky diodes from a power supply to rectify my driving coils output. Anybody knows how I would have to connect it?
I have got two of those: http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets_pdf/S/T/P/S/STPS2045CT.shtml
Thanks, Chal

Just connect A1 and A2 pins together to have the two diodes in parallel and use it as if it were a single diode.
(You cannot make a diode bridge from  your two such diodes because both have their cathodes connected inside the casing.)

MAke sure the AC peak voltage from the coils do not exceed 35-40V , to reach the maximum 45V reverse voltage rating.

Gyula

Hey everybody. Finally doing some more work on this project.
I've been waiting to see what ZFF is building but I have not seen any new videos or updates to his page in 3 months so I am just going to go ahead and build something.

I am building coils that are a little larger than the original sewing bobbins.
I already have, on hand, a bag of ferrite rods (from another project) that measure 10mm diameter X 20mm long and are grade 4B1.
And I found some off-the-shelf fiber washers ( www.amzn/B000FMWTNE ) that are suitable for bobbin ends and easy to glue to the ferrite rods with regular acrylic adhesive which will also work well to glue the coils directly to an acrylic frame.

I now have all my bobbins, plus a few spares, assembled for the first prototype and just need to start winding. (See attached)
I do have a spool of Litz wire, as was described earlier in this thread, although not sure if Litz wire really makes a difference at these lower frequencies.

I do wonder; has anybody ever considered using the best of two worlds to build a new design?
I propose using the magnetic vortex of the Marko Rodin / Randy Powell coil as the primary mover to drive the cogless alternator of the Bill Muller/Phil Wood Dynamo.
Does the image of this mock-up spark any new ideas? (See attached)
If one was to build such a thing, what might be the effects, of the magnetic vortex, on the Muller rotor and coils?

Quote from: konehead on January 21, 2012, 02:05:45 PM
Hi Mariu
In the top picture on this page from my site, is the circuit wtih a "AC leg of FWBR 2nd swtich"
http://sites.google.com/site/alternativeworldenergy/pulsed-dc-backemf-recoil-recovery-circuits
in the photo below it, you see 4 brushes, but  this a double-pulse thing going on, you only need 2 brushes really to show concept....this is a bit confusing with the 4 brushes...also circuit of it is underneath photo.
simple experiment I like to do for fun sometimes is run DC pulse motor on 24V and dump DC side of FWBR directly into battery bank of 12V batteries in paralell - no caps at all...batteries for sure get a good charge, and you can get a speed up if you find timing sweet spot, with that AC LEG 2nd switch...
This particular circuit shown at top of page has the AC legs of the FWBR across the motor coil swtihcing itself...not across the motor coils, but sometimes the AC legs work a little better across the coils, rather than the motor coil switching as shown, so experiment with where to stick the AC legs of the FWBR.
functions of S1 and S2 in this simple drawing is what I was trying to explain...S1 is your switch that drives the motor coil pulsing, and S2 is the swtich that connects the backemf/recoil into a cap...
the timing of it is S2 is about 5 degrees retarded to S1 - like an "echo"
since S2 is on AC leg of FWBR, you should use a bidirectional mosfet there, if using mosfets, since it is switching a spikey AC (sort of)  as this switch connects the FWBR..

Hi Konehead!
I've tried to modify the schematic you've already posted here "PULSEWDITHADJUSTCOILSHORT.jpg", taking care of your directives and "BACKEFM/RECOIL RECOVERY BATTERY CHARGER". Would you say it's what you wanted to advise Mariuscivic to do? or do I have to make corrections?

hi Khwartz
No it doesnt look right - modifying that double-bidirectional pulse-width adjstument cirucit makes it more difficult to figure out what is going on  too...
think like this:
SW1 connects 12V battery to motor coil and it is timed to pulse the rotor around, just like any DC pulse motor coil...the SW1  can be anything you want; transistor, mechanical brush-commutator, mosfets...
that SW1 will have "two sides" to it;  the "in" and "out", you can call them, just like any switch will have.
Now take the AC LEGS of a FWBR, and put one AC leg on IN of the switch, and the other AC LEG on the OUT of the switch....this is pretty easy to follow so far eh...
Put the DC side of the FWBR onto a DC capacitor, or a DC load like a 6V battery...(something)
still easy to follow I hope...
Now on JUST ONE AC LEG of the FWBR, put a 2nd switch , which connects the AC leg of the FWBR to "one side" of that motor coil switch (remember you have two AC legs across that motor coil swtich already and so now you want to have a switch on jsut one of the two AC legs)
The 2nd swtihc turns ON about 5 degrees retarded, to the timing of the motor coil switch, and when it turns ON (closes) it connects the backemf/recoil of the motor coil's collapse at its turn-off to that DC cap, and does this only during the time the 2nd swtich is ON