I admire tinsels builds.  Your single turn air core hf transformer is cool.  The bulb resistance is going in and out of synch with the primary resistance.  You need a dummy load that is more stable than the bulb.   The ouput could be drawn off by things that just need voltage to light up.  Led lamps are coming down in price and you need only to attach one wire to your rig and the other to a big piece of copper which is a good scource of free electrons.  I don't think you could close the loop by using a garden light solar cell though.  Worth a try?  Your big tesla transformer I imagine could lightup the complete inventory on hand of led lamps from homedepots in your surrounding area. 

Cmon Tk, dont be a lil Mr Tinselfet.  ;]   

Would the use of the same loop and the same capacitors for the LC's, as in if they were all the same, would you get better results?
Nice job

Mags

Also, cant wait to here what you have come up with on why there is that boosted output getting the loops close together, and it sticks.  Till it gets too far away.  Interesting. ;]

Mags

Thanks, sparks.
I've got some old videos showing some triple resonators lighting up LEDs _and_ NE2s in series with only one wire or none, somewhere on my channel. But yes, this little power transmitter project here -- which is basically the "Ainslie" Q1-Q2 configuration done properly with correct tuning and a useful load -- is a fun deal. I'm just starting to explore its possibilities, I just completed it this afternoon.

It even runs at about the same frequency as the NERD Q1-Q2 oscillator. And that last video should be "proof" that it's.... well, that it's running, anyway.

@Mags: I've determined that the "shift" involves a frequency change, but not by a full octave like you might imagine. The signal across the bulb is a very pure sine wave and varies a little with distance, about 20 V p-p and starts at about 1.4 MHz and down from there. The last measurement I took it was stable at 1.375 MHz. But when it clicks into the "brilliant" mode the frequency pops down to a pure sine wave at 875 kHz, roughly, and voltage pops up to over 40 V p-p at the bulb. No wonder it's super bright.

There is another weird weirdness, and that is, when it's in "normal" mode the current drawn from the battery increases as you get closer with the receiver and the bulb gets brighter, and it falls off as you get farther away. When it's in the "brilliant" mode, though... this is reversed, within the range of the effect. The current is low when it's _close_, just as it clicks into the mode, and increases as I get further away and peaks just as it clicks _out_ of the brilliant mode at its maximum distance.

Of course that is part of the secret, so don't tell anyone. The actual numbers on the ammeters... those are secret too, heh heh.

ETA: It turns out that the local capacitance isn't that important; otherwise handling the loops would kill the power, but it doesn't affect it at all. Evidently the power transmission and the circuit operation is governed almost completely by the inductances. I tried a little air variable on the receiver and didn't notice any effect. I have a loopstick here somewhere that I'll try next. The capacitance in the receiver is supposed to be of the same value as the caps in the transmitter, and it is, just different types of poly caps, and ditto the loops, same size or pretty close. The caps in the transmitter have to be good ones, poly, or they will heat up excessively. The mosfets are IRFZ44N.