10/5/12

Got some more work done this evening.

Completed the new stators with timing plates.
Was able to keep timing plates very simple.
Just more circles, 1/4" thick, with holes that fit right over the flanges of the bearings then 1/2" thick blocks to support the switches.
Timing plate bolts are just 1/4" nylon with nuts recessed in forstner holes.
With a timing plate on each side; I can control two separate run circuits independently.

Going to start with air cores, and single filar coils, for now.
Which is the simplest, cheapest, way that I see to build this thing.
May need to use solid state relays if the switches fail to hold up.

I am of the opinion this a better, simpler, more direct, approach than playing with hall effect transistors dependent on 'squishy' magnetic fields which may fluctuate, or change, at different RPM.
And if precision, electronic, timing is desired; probably better to use optical sensors as Muller did.

High resolution version here:
http://www.rodscontracts.com/images/projects/muller/NewTimingAndStatorPlates.png

That is all for this evening.

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Quote from: Magluvin on October 05, 2012, 08:21:20 PM
Very cool Marius. ;]  I see that one side pushes and one side pulls, helping to negate cogging. ;] 

Ya know, those plastic bending arms with the mags, if the rotor hits the right speed, those arms will go into resonance, and really start swinging. ;] Would be interesting what effect that would have on the rotor at and around those speeds. ;]

Very nice. ;]

Mags

Hi Mags!
You are right! At higher rpm the plastic arms go into resonance but there is no magic there. The rotor breaks faster; just doesnt like it.
My ideea with this setup was that to build a sistem that is unbalanced. Then, in a way or another, balancing the sistem with the help of lenz.

Quote from: mariuscivic on October 06, 2012, 10:37:04 AM
Hi Mags!
You are right! At higher rpm the plastic arms go into resonance but there is no magic there. The rotor breaks faster; just doesnt like it.
My ideea with this setup was that to build a sistem that is unbalanced. Then, in a way or another, balancing the sistem with the help of lenz.

Well this may be a good mechanical example of what Romero did with spacing.

I see you have a certain distance between the rotor and the fingers. Well, if you bring the rotor up to the speed that gets the fingers moving the most, now you increase the distance from the rotor till the fingers are moving only so far like shown in your vid to reduce the drag but get the same output. Now since you said that during resonance rpm's that there is more drag, what will need to be tested a comparison of drags. ;] There must have been an advantage to the 'distance' because most gens have very close proximity, and none of them are OU.

To add many fingers, have the base that the fingers are anchored above or below the rotor. ;]  Could put leds on each moving end to see the wave. Might have an interesting visual.

Mags

Come to think of it, put another magnet in the finger, closer to the base it is attached to, as a magnet on the finger for the rotor to interact with while the original just generates into the pickup coil.. The finger will have lower freq of resonance, but should still resonate by having the input lower on the totem pole so to speak. Might work even very close to the base, causing the outer gen mag end to swing.

Now since the new magnet placement on the finger wont be moving as far as your example when in resonance, so the rotor drag wont be as much at  resonance, yet the mag on the far end of the finger will be a swingin, generating in the coil. ;]

Mags

The unit is fully assembled and have done a preliminary test run and already discovering several issues that need to be addressed.
High resolution image here:
http://www.rodscontracts.ws/images/projects/muller/NewDynamoBuilt.png

#1 Rotor is pretty wobbly (not flat) and will probably have to be replaced.
This has always been an issue for me. Not sure why the material always seems to be a little warped and may need to upgrade to a laminate.

#2 Cam is not perfectly true so not 'firing' consistently.

#3 Switch contacts are actually holding up pretty well but there appears to be an issue with 'bounce'.
The ignition cam is actually designed to use ignition points which utilize a very strong spring and my idea of using such a cam, and simple switch, may not be as easy as I had hoped.

#4 While running on just one coil pair, at 12 volts, current draw is pretty high, around 700ma, this is not good and coils getting hot.
Still need to see how this might change with ferrite cores.

I may decide to abandon mechanical switching and move to hall effect or optical sensors.
I was trying to avoid this, and keep it simple, but it may, actually, become simpler to use electronics versus all the physical challenges such as the need for an absolutely perfect cam and specialized switch or commutator.

It may be awhile before I have anything else to report.

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