Scorch did u just follow the hall circuit in the pdf? Im struggling
I had a idea. A normal three pin hall switch only pulses one pole. Ive seen latched halls that pulse both poles
Anyone have a schematic on how you wire a four pin hall for pulsing both poles for higher rpm. Ive read that a trigger coil works best for top rpm? Romero said before lower rpm is good so not sure what direction to go!
Still wsiting on parts. God damn snow...
Has anyone managed to close the loop yet?? Or just romero? Can someone help me with the hall circuit- I have a lil secret about this device :p
Just wanna build this thing lol

1/24/13

Just another quick update.
I have been thinking about this, all along, and deepcut recently suggested using an inductance driver as per Adams/Bedini.
So I will try this since I already have bifilar coils ready and the SSG is the the most efficient driver I know how to build.
I went ahead and installed one bifilar coil pair and will use my regular SSG circuit to run it.
This should provide higher RPM which is easy to control.
Also decided to try and get the rotor as close to the coils as possible so I used a disk sander to reduce the nylon screw heads.
This allows me to move the coils a lot closer and to where they should be.
And, also, removed the timing plates so the assembly now appears a lot cleaner and simpler.

That is all for now.

}:>

Quote from: DeepCut on January 24, 2013, 04:30:00 AM
So an inductive driver coil is a good idea because it naturally switches polarity depending on the poleface of the magnet that triggered it.


DC.

Well, if we look at the 'prescribed' drive circuit from Romero, it only pulses the drive coil with one polarity. The same N, or S, field for each pulse. So if we alternated the magnets on the rotor, every other pulse would be a push on the rotor and every other a pull or drag on the rotor.

There are solutions. Position the trigger mags offset so that for the opposite poled mags get pushed, and the others get pulled. All just working with the original drive circuit. I would rather have consistent timely pulses. When the drive coil is on, the other rotor mags are not directly on any particular gen coil. Odd no. coils, even no. mags  So the offset would change that, possibly pulsing the drive coil while a gen coil is being induced by a rotor mag, affecting that gen coils results compared to the others.

Or, 2 separate drive circuits with the same coil a the drive coil, and just have the second circuit throw opposite polarity to the coil. This might require 2 trigger magnet wheels, one for each circuit so each circuit knows which magnets to provide the correct polarity to the coil.

For me, there isnt much sense in changing what Romero had shown. The space between pulses,magnet spacing/coil spacing, I dont believe things will be any better.

Using very low ohm mosfets would ensure good switching. Also paralleling them decreases that 'on time' resistance, applying more voltage to the drive coil.

Probably the best way to go is to just do as the doctor ordered 'first'  Then modify from there if no good results.

You have the hard part done. How did Romero have his hall sensor? Its the little things, that mean a lot. 

I think if you just use 1 winding of the coil for drive and the other for sense, that you might lose drive power to the rotor, being that the windings are not as dense as if you used them both. Like a coil made with thick insulation, where here we have the sense winding taking up space instead.  If the sense winding were very thin wire compared to the drive winding, it would be better as the sense winding wont be taking up space and might just fit between the drive wires without making the coil wider in diameter, as if you just wound 1 winding.

How about this. Wind a top layer to the coil and babam, sense coil. 

If you have the drive coil windings in series, try them in parallel. Ya might get a 4 fold speed increase, by the coils ability to consume more current from the drive circuit. Like this, if each winding were say 1 ohm for example. In series, say 10v divided by 2 ohms  is 5A. But in parallel the coil will be 1/2 ohm. 10v divided by .5ohm is 20A. Big speed increase.

Dont worry about drive consumption yet, just get the motor up to speed first, then work on getting better eff. by tuning.

Mags

As for other things to get the rotor spinning faster.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSTfFIetYPY

14+ min rundown  on the rotor with those bearings starting at 1200 rpm

Mags

1/25/13

Back, in the early 70's, when I was a young man participating in something called "Pinewood Derby" the rules said "No oil allowed" on the wheels, or axles, of the wooden cars.
BUT, at that time, powdered graphite lubricant was a fairly new thing in the hardware store and I believe I was only one in the race who used the stuff and I definitely had an advantage while staying within the rules.  Of course, as news of this 'new' lubricant spread, they changed the rules.

And this has not been the first time people have the changed their rules after I arrived in the scene, on this stage, some call 'reality' . . . 

Not sure how well it may work, in a ball bearing, over time.
I think it will have a tendency to disperse, loose effectiveness, and is more suitable for less active environments such as the pins in a door lock.

Have you considered trying lubrilon?
http://lubrilon.com

It's a lubricant specifically formulated to create it's own surface on finished, metal, surfaces such as those found on rod journals of a crankshaft and cylinder walls.
A 'slick', chemically bonded, surface develops, that is so hard, it can only be removed by grinding it off.
And has been tested by using lubrilon in an engine then completely drain the oil then continue using the engine without damaging it.

A couple drops of lubrilon, in your ball bearings, may be desired.

}:>

Quote from: Magluvin on January 24, 2013, 10:58:11 PM
As for other things to get the rotor spinning faster.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSTfFIetYPY

14+ min rundown  on the rotor with those bearings starting at 1200 rpm

Mags