Drak,
I certainly would not use a paper. And I think you should use what you have one hand, maybe something with a temperature claim, and try a test sample. Just look for something that will apply even and thinly and dry hard.
If you're into it, check a nearby motor rebuild shop. They may sell or point you to an easy source. Gylptol is the common red motor insulating varnish and not what you want. It'd work, but way to thick.
bi

Drak,
Something comes to mind. Unsure how it will play out. But I imagine to replicate and get effects near what Mike shows in his videos, you may need to adjust that air gap distance. This is done on motors and generators using separate pole pieces and shims. So you might keep this in mind. Could it be possible to build in adjustment on the rotor magnet arm assembly? Just something to consider if it sticks (cogs) too much, or too little.
Do you have a dial indicator for alignment of the assembly?
Using quality ball bearings?
Might load a gaussmeter app on smart phone to check magnets.
bi

Quote from: bistander on May 14, 2023, 02:10:06 PM
Drak,
I certainly would not use a paper. And I think you should use what you have one hand, maybe something with a temperature claim, and try a test sample. Just look for something that will apply even and thinly and dry hard.
If you're into it, check a nearby motor rebuild shop. They may sell or point you to an easy source. Gylptol is the common red motor insulating varnish and not what you want. It'd work, but way to thick.
bi

Diluol
transparent nail polish (beauty-case equipment ?
instant adhesive/super glue
transparent self-glueing thin plastic-foil,anti-static

https://motorkote.com/

wmbr
OCWL

Quote from: bistander on May 14, 2023, 02:33:34 PM
Drak,
Something comes to mind. Unsure how it will play out. But I imagine to replicate and get effects near what Mike shows in his videos, you may need to adjust that air gap distance. This is done on motors and generators using separate pole pieces and shims. So you might keep this in mind. Could it be possible to build in adjustment on the rotor magnet arm assembly? Just something to consider if it sticks (cogs) too much, or too little.
Do you have a dial indicator for alignment of the assembly?
Using quality ball bearings?
Might load a gaussmeter app on smart phone to check magnets.
bi

The Air gap is kinda baked into the design I can't really change that except for sanding down the steel. The bearings seem quality, not much play in them. I ordered them from McMaster-Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/6138K65/ <edit to add> I will eventually remove the rubber gasket on the bearings to reduce friction but for now there is too much debris until i finish


In the picture below the red is acrylic, yellow is the magnet(s), the grey is the steel. Currently because my steel cutting abilities suck, the steel came out bigger then expected. Which in a way is a good thing. So the outer rotor will not currently fit inside the strator. Same thing happened with the inner rotor to the outer rotor. I had to sand it down. So its a one way permanent adjustment. Unless I cut more steel. Which I have been thinking about doing because I can fit another magnet in there to make it stronger. Currently I have three .25 inch cube magnets where the yellow is in the picture. I could have fit 4 and I don't know why I didn't.


No dial indicator, no specialty tools like that, but I do want to buy one sometime. I wanted one when i build my cnc to test for play, just never got around to getting one. I'm thinking the magnets might be n42, but I'll will probably just order an assortment of grades and test them all. As for your previous post before, you mention temperature claim. I doubt this thing will ever get that hot, I'm just building this to see if the claim is real. If it is, I will not use acrylic in the next build. Unless "temperature claim" means something else besides what i'm thinking it does.


Thanks for all your inputs so far.

Quote from: Drak on May 14, 2023, 03:04:05 PM

The Air gap is kinda baked into the design I can't really change that except for sanding down the steel. The bearings seem quality, not much play in them. I ordered them from McMaster-Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/6138K65/ <edit to add> I will eventually remove the rubber gasket on the bearings to reduce friction but for now there is too much debris until i finish


In the picture below the red is acrylic, yellow is the magnet(s), the grey is the steel. Currently because my steel cutting abilities suck, the steel came out bigger then expected. Which in a way is a good thing. So the outer rotor will not currently fit inside the strator. Same thing happened with the inner rotor to the outer rotor. I had to sand it down. So its a one way permanent adjustment. Unless I cut more steel. Which I have been thinking about doing because I can fit another magnet in there to make it stronger. Currently I have three .25 inch cube magnets where the yellow is in the picture. I could have fit 4 and I don't know why I didn't.


No dial indicator, no specialty tools like that, but I do want to buy one sometime. I wanted one when i build my cnc to test for play, just never got around to getting one. I'm thinking the magnets might be n42, but I'll will probably just order an assortment of grades and test them all. As for your previous post before, you mention temperature claim. I doubt this thing will ever get that hot, I'm just building this to see if the claim is real. If it is, I will not use acrylic in the next build. Unless "temperature claim" means something else besides what i'm thinking it does.


Thanks for all your inputs so far.

Hi Drak,

Re: 3 to 4 magnets. On surface one might think this will increase flux, and therefore force, by 33%. Fallacy. Doesn't work that way. Yes, there is benefit, but not as you might expect. Without going into theory detail, which a textbook would serve you better than I, do this. Use. This magnetic calculator.
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/calculator.asp?calcType=block
Use N42. I sample ran 0.25 x 0.25 x 0.75 thick & 0.025 inch gap vs same only 1.0 inch thick. Not much difference in pull force at all.

Change the face area, like 0.25 x 0.5 x 0.75" thick and see the difference.

Like they say at the race track, run what you brung. Modify later.
bi

ps. It was likely the bearing seals removed.  And likely they were greased. Especially if you may have contaminated them, clean/flush with solvent to remove all grease and lubricate with light oil, not wd40. Occasionally add a drop of oil. Keep clean, perhaps fashion paper non contact shields.