@ Joe:

That might be an even easier thing to do!  Great idea.  That might be the same stuff you can buy at an auto store to repair the rear window defroster.  It is a thick conductive paint that you re-connect the broken lines on the window with.  Our brush pick-up idea will/should not put much wear on the surface.  I think I am going to go with your idea on this one.  I can easily mask some lines on a cd surface and paint and voila.  Excellent.

@ Freezer:

Yes, I am a big fan of Ed's as well.  I have copies of his book and some of his writings here.  He was another one that was way ahead of his time.  Try what I did.  Take a magnet to the store with you when shopping for materials.  This helped in many ways.  First, when I thought I found some bare copper wire at a hobby store, it was labeled "copper wire", the magnet stuck to it readily.  so, that told me it had an iron core and was NOT copper.  Next, I went to a home center and asked for iron wire.  The "iron wire" they directed me to would NOT react with my magnet at all.  I found some fence wire that my magnet was very strongly attracted to so I bought it.  I found some "iron" rebar but, it was very weak on the magnet test so I bought a galvanized spike, 12" long, that once I placed the magnet near it, I could barely pull it off.  This told me it was very high in iron so that is what I used.  I know you know all this already, but I am glad I just happened to think of carrying one with me otherwise I would have copper coated iron wire instead of solid copper and very little iron in my iron wire and core.

@ Bruce:

I am concerned that you will break all of the records here with your large coil. (Big grin)  Actually, I hope you do, then we can be sure we are going in the correct direction.  Based on the size and windings of Joe's and my coils and results, I will make a guess/prediction for yours: 33 mA and 1.2 vdc for the primary.  I have no idea about the secondary output.  Too many variables as far as the frequency of the interrupter mechanism is concerned.  Best of luck with it.

@ Jeanna:

Did I read your post correctly?  You have voltage between your sink and the oven?  Be very careful over there.  you may have some internal short in the stove's wiring or something bleeding back into the neutral or ground circuit.  Did you check it for amps?  It is lucky you discovered this.  I would have a good electrician check that out.  It could be caused by a number of things, none of them good.  I think Joe is right about your tape sealing off the copper too much.  I know your coils are smaller than ours but, based upon loosed and wild guessing, I think you should be seeing at least 8-10 mA or something in that neighborhood.  I agree that maybe we should not have tossed the zinc coating (galvanized) into the mix but since there is no contact, I was hoping that the fact that my core is very high in iron would be all that mattered.  It will be interesting to see what Bruce's device puts out.  If nothing else, you could try the cotton string like George and I are using for separating the wires as you wind them.  This also is not on the patent, and if I had more money available right now, I would stick closer to it.  I am not straying to be creative and get ahead, it is only out of necessity.  But, necessity is the mother of invention, right?

Bill

Quote from: Freezer on February 10, 2008, 02:03:13 PM
I got some materials today, so I will give it a try.  I couldn't for the life of me find bare iron wire, or pure iron rods, so I got the regular bolt. (I know Jenna..hehe)

I've been very interested Leedskalnin lately and rereading his book over and over.

I found these two paragraphs interesting..

"Transformers and generators are making the currents in the same way,

by filling the iron core with magnets and letting the iron core push

them out and into the coil."

"Connect the battery with electric magnet for a little while, now

disconnect the battery, connect the light bulb with the electric magnet the

same way it was connected with the battery, now pull off the six-inch long

bar, do it quickly, then you will see light in the bulb."

Its interesting he also states that the energy is already in the wire, relative to what SM said about "kicks". 

@ Freezer
It is called "magnetic remnance".  Nothing new.  Sorry.   

Now, take that transformer or two of them and pop opposing signal into them and...  Or take two of these, wired in reverse of one another, buried in the ground, and the imagination goes to dreamin...

Cheers,

Bruce

@Bruce

My core is only six inches long and im peaking 20 ma .... with only two layers.. yours should be upwards of a couple hundred ma if the output is proportional to surface area   
                                                                                                                                                         Joe

I was about to send in a synopsis of all my readings so far. (It is easier to understand when they are all in one place.) But I got a very low figure in the last coil battery I made, and waited til this morning to be sure of a short.

full report to date
I have 4 spikes. only 3 are worth much but I will describe all four with their numbers.

1) 12" iron spike ~ 3/8 inch diameter
covered with COTTON cloth
Wrapped 'bifilar' with open Fe wire and plastic insulated Cu.
2 rows cotton cloth separating the rows, not closely wound. DRY
This was from the first night of Joe's 'discovery'.
There is zero everywhere. Only when I connect the probes across the Cu wire and the Fe stake, then I get 24mvdc

2) 12"iron spike ~3/8" diameter
covered with SILK cloth. All Cu wire is covered with SILK cloth and the rows between layers are SILK cloth.
Closely wrapped bifilar with iron wire 19 gauge and Cu wire 18 gauge.
3 1/2 layers, about 4 in coil length.
No Secondary. WET

286mvdc
100mvac
12uamp

Later after I added a secondary on a spool so it could be removed

240mvdc
0.0mvac
10.6uamp

3)6" galvanized iron bolt 3/8" diameter
covered with SILK cloth. All Cu wire is covered with SILK cloth and the rows between layers are SILK cloth.
Closely wrapped bifilar with iron wire 19 gauge and Cu wire 18 gauge.
3 1/2 layers, about 4 in coil length. WET

60.9mvdc
if terminals are shorted zero
222mvdc Cu wire to zn bolt
(53mvac ? - not written down ac or dc )

The last layer of windings was uneven so the secondary is uneven. As much as possible many layers of mag wire are piled on top of each other but spnning around 3 inches. ~200 wraps 24gauge mag wire. WET

394mvdc
300mvac
150uamps => going down slowly but steadily

ABOUT THIS TIME I DID A WIRE CONTROL TEST

Cu pipe - Zn bolt  = 780mvdc
Cu wire - Zn wire = 290mvdc

4)6" galvanized(zinc) iron bolt 1/2" diameter
covered with cloth TAPE. All Cu wire is covered with cloth TAPE and the rows between layers are cloth TAPE.
Closely wrapped bifilar with galvanized (zinc coated) iron wire 18 gauge and Cu wire 18 gauge.
3 1/2 layers, about 4 in coil length. WET

terminals 5,6:
540mvdc
500mvac
9-10 uamp
------
Terminals 10 galv iron/ Cu:
600mvdc
700mvac
12.5uamp

Added a cardboard tube wound with 70 turns of Cu mag wire WET
685mvdc
800mvac
0.03mamp (26.3uamp)

but this has produced a short. over time. I suppose it is the wet cardboard:
22mvdc
0mvac
17uamp
Cu - zn bolt 150mvdc

ALL, REPEAT ALL THESE READINGS WERE MADE IN GLASS JARS. (THERE WAS NO SINK)

jeanna

This is a photo of my 12" long primary.  2 layers of bifilar windings of 55 turns each wire.  (110 total for the coil)

@ Joe:

My guess on Bruce's output (it was just a wild guess) was based on my 19mA at 12" with 2 layers.  His is longer and has more layers so hopefully, your guess will be more accurate.

Bill