Trawoeer Power Pyramid Version 12 - Electrical output from a homemade pyramid

[k4zep]

@K4ZEP . Looks like fine work , and I like the way you work around problems . I was looking at brass fittings in a plummers merchants today , trying to find an off the shelf component that would serve as an end cap / reducer . I looked at a thing called a 28 mm end cap [compression . Although a bit bulky , this could be easily modified to do the job . It fits over the outside of the large tube . There is a gland nut or threaded ring that crushes an olive on the outside of the pipe to hold things together , but we could dispense with the nut and the olive , and just tape it in position . It is different to TT`s set up in that it fits over the outside of the pipe as opposed to plugging inside the end . One would of course have to drill the 10mm hole for the inner pipe . Based on your own theory as to why the brass is necessary , do you think this part would work ?

Hi Neptune,

Do you have a picture?  I don't know for sure but Thomas says "without the brass end cap between the two copper tubes it will not work". For some reason it appears that there has to be a dissimilar metal between the two tubes and I do not know why exactly as of now.  IF you can get a snug fit on the outside and a snug fit for the 10mm tube, it MIGHT work......

Respectfully
Ben K4ZEP

[nul-points]

[...]
I was looking at brass fittings in a plummers merchants today , trying to find an off the shelf component that would serve as an end cap / reducer . I looked at a thing called a 28 mm end cap [compression . Although a bit bulky , this could be easily modified to do the job . It fits over the outside of the large tube . There is a gland nut or threaded ring that crushes an olive on the outside of the pipe to hold things together , but we could dispense with the nut and the olive , and just tape it in position . It is different to TT`s set up in that it fits over the outside of the pipe as opposed to plugging inside the end . One would of course have to drill the 10mm hole for the inner pipe
[...]

hi neptune

i've found something in B&Q that looks possible - a "1/2 inch tail for hose union"  (about £1.50 iirc)

it just fits over a 24mm OD copper pipe and has a 15mm ID hole in end

however, it is bronze, by the looks of it - not brass

not sure if the dimensions are critical tho'?

anyway, just thought i'd mention it, in case it helps!

greetings all
np


http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com

[neptune]

Hi NP , Ben . I will have a look in B and Q tomorrow . In the absence of the identical part , something modifiable . would be useful . The endcap I looked at would be a snug fit , almost watertight without the gland nut and olive . It is interesting that 2 dissimilar metals are needed . And brass is as close to copper as you can get , because it is of course largely copper with zinc added . In the future , a combination of metals might be found that are far superior , but who knows . Another fact . In TT`s reactor , the lower end cap is soldered in place . So it is quite possible that the brass is not actually in contact with the copper . What I planning to do ,if I can get suitable parts ,is to build a reactor and try "conditioning " the sand . I have collected some sand from a local beach at Skegness . It is very fine , and almost white when dry . Hopefully some of these questions will be answered when TT`s parts are delivered .

[NickZ]

  If the beach sand has salt in it, it can be washed out, before baking it.

[Erdtaucher]

Hy,

I´ve got two nice fotos for you:

1. Reactorcoil by normal Light
2. Reactorcoil by darkness with HV