very high and powerful voltazh voltage from a small voltage

[DeepCut]

Would be much better to have a solid toroid with no break.

To make winding faster and easier make a simple jig, wind all of the wire to be used onto something thin, like a pencil, then you can hand wind the toroid by just passing the pencil through over and over.

Melting steel with ten watts, crazy !

Perhaps there's something similar to inductive heating going on here ?

[gyulasun]

Hi Laurent,

I hope your Nokia charger remained operational from the normal mains voltage?
I guess you meant  the 6.07V at the output of the charger when you connected its AC input to your coil's AC output?  And I would not recommend hooking a 10 000uF cap to the output of the Nokia charger because it is a huge load for it and may change the inside working of the built-in switch mode circuit. 
What would be interesting to know is how low the AC voltage goes down at your AC coil output the moment you connect the Nokia charger to it, first without any load across the charger DC output.  I think the dizzling noise was heard under the time the 10 000uF cap was being charged up to 6V, agree with this?

So when you measured the 6.07V at the charger output, what was the AC input of the Sergdo circuit to the charger, can you check it with your scope? You wrote elsewhere you rewound the output coils with less than 500 turns, what is the output peak to peak voltage now?

And it would be also good you load the DC output of the charger by a normal resistor when it is hooked to your Sergdo circuit, the resistor value would be in the range from 33 to 82 to 120 Ohm and see if the 6V DC output is changing or remains stable as you increase the load towards the lower values.  Maybe you can check its behaviour when plugged into the normal mains and you load the 6V DC output?

Thanks,  Gyula

Hi Gyula

i tried to hook a NOKIA  handphone charger without standard transformer but i could get about nothing. The voltmeter indicated 6.07 volt, than i conected a 10 000 uf 100 volt cap and the charging was a bad dizzling noise and i had to constantly regulate the voltage input to increase the voltage in the cap, Than when the cap was at 6.07 volts the dizzling noise stop and the scope shows a normal fonction ( as per no cap charging)

than i conected a lamp (rated 4 volt DC ) accross the cap and i got a short and brillant ligthing.

So i think that this phone charger (nokia ) is not able to do what i am looking for  or any idea ?

but just for fun

http://youtu.be/FqGjkqaTC7Y

good uck at all

Laurent

[Hitman]

Hi Hitman

bravo

i wondered if a TV yoke would work and you say it is possible.

Yes i think also that a one piece torroid should be better, but what a hell to wind

If you look at Sergdo video , his toroid do not dizzle at all, the diizzle appears only at the welding arc.

My broken torroid dizzle a lot, and i also noticed that when i press the 2 parts the dizzling decrease but not desappears.

Can you say more on the dimension of your yoke and turns of primary and secondary, because i think at this stage of developpement we have to test a lot of different ferrite toroid and winding, to improve our knowledge.
By the way i wonder if a NANOPERM toroid would be better

Many thank's

Laurent

The yoke is about 2 in high by 3.5 in diameter, looks like the one Arunas used, it came out of a very old TV.
primary was 30 turns each of 26awg magnet wire and sec was 131 turns each of 23awg magnet wire.
transistor was a 2N3055

I wound another smaller and newer yoke today using the same guages of wire but increased secondary to 200 turns each, I still was able to light my 120V  2watt bulb but it was not strong enough to melt steel. Also I noticed I couldn't reach the lower frequency's like I did with the first yoke.

will try to find my camera and make a quick vid

Cheers Michel

[Hitman]

Update !
I am now lighting two 120volt 2Watt led bulbs connected in series at just under 2 watts.

I used a solar cell to measure how much voltage the led bulb would produce on the cell when connected to the mains power (.41volts), I then adjusted frequency of the (I don't know what to call it) thingamabob to match the .41 measurement and then took voltage and amp readings with 1 bulb then 2 in series.

1 bulb connected to mains: 114volts @ .016amps = 1.82watts, bulb intensity = .41volts
1 bulb connected to toroid: 12.65volts @ .187amps = 2.36watts bulb intensity = .41volts
2 series bulbs connected to toroid: 12.52volts @ .162amps = 2.02watts bulb intensity = (much higher)

Now I'm not sure but wouldn't the 2 lights in series suppose to give you a total of 4 watts ?

Here are some pics and a video as requested.

http://youtu.be/MNFgWYUzYOg

Cheers Michel (aka Hitman

[gyulasun]

@Woopy
I used an old TV yoke cut in half for my toroid and noticed my led lamp gets brighter when I apply more pressure on my 2 halves, maybe if its in one piece we will get better results or more efficient results...
...

Hi Michel,

Thanks for showing your replication, very good.  You surely know that applying more pressure on the two halfs of the toroid decreases the airgap between the facing ferrit surfaces, hence the  inductance of all the coils surely increases and more energy can circulate inside the core versus the higher airgap case.  Yes a fully closed big core would be better but there are two reasons:
very hard to wind the some hundred turns and there is some danger for the core to get close to saturation.

I used a solar cell to measure how much voltage the led bulb would produce on the cell when connected to the mains power (.41volts), I then adjusted frequency of the (I don't know what to call it) thingamabob to match the .41 measurement and then took voltage and amp readings with 1 bulb then 2 in series. 

Hopefully you used a shading material (black cloth or whatever) to close out ambient light when you took the calibration and the solar cell received light from the LED lamp only?  And this shading material was used in the same way when your LED was run from the Sergdo circuit?   Even so, this comparison (may it sound good) includes the lack of the light spectra difference (if any) between the some kHz and the 60Hz mains frequency drive.  IT would be good to know the LED inner circuit, if it includes full wave diode bridge at its mains input and a puffer capacitor then the difference may be less.
However I would like to learn how you adjusted the frequency of the 'thingamabob'  to arrive at the  .41V?

1 bulb connected to mains: 114volts @ .016amps = 1.82watts, bulb intensity = .41volts
1 bulb connected to toroid: 12.65volts @ .187amps = 2.36watts bulb intensity = .41volts
2 series bulbs connected to toroid: 12.52volts @ .162amps = 2.02watts bulb intensity = (much higher)

Now I'm not sure but wouldn't the 2 lights in series suppose to give you a total of 4 watts ?
...

Theoretically I would agree, the two LEDs in series would consume 2 x 2W but you surely noticed that the circuit consumed less input power when the load was 2 LEDs in series, meaning the LEDs are nonlinear devices and very sensitive voltagewise.  Here again it would be good to know the inner circuit of such LEDs do they include any voltage stabilizing circuits.  Perhaps first a voltage-current curve or tabelle could be made from the mains voltage by a Variac transformator to explore their behavior.
IT may be also useful to connect the two LEDs in parallel, not in series to see the same  .41V or around that from both and then observe the circuit input power.

Thanks,  Gyula