Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[magpwr]

I have forgot to mention that this effect is present also with Tesla OFF.
Yes i do use the Sergey diagram.
So you say that i have to setup push-pull on some "Edge" where then tesla can create this higher frequency effect?

hi zalmoxis,

Yes,higher frequency in sine-wave although you know that the circuit is operating at lower frequency.

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There was a topic in this overunity which i created few years ago under "longitudinal wave...." which is a reverse engineered and enhanced version of "Eric Dollard" experiment shown years ago in youtube.

There was in/out power measurement done virtually using power meter by someone in forum which had everyone including myself fooled because it's not calculating on base peak power output but on average power output which the output efficiency was around 50% efficiency base on average power.We can't apply average power for this type of device.

This is actually  overunity in 2 areas because output detected as higher frequency than the source applied frequency.


But the main thing i wanted to revealed is i was using virtually "random selected L/C tank circuit for higher output" after the H-bridge at that time which does not base on L/C resonance such that the Longitudinal device is able to resonate on it's own at a higher frequency.

If you observe the value selected for the inductor which form like a bowl U in a one dimension view in head.
Source frequency applied at one end of device which represent the top portion of a singing bowl produce higher frequency output.

The kapanadze device is also a longitudinal device.

[NickZ]

Good that you have the socket now.

But... two things, nit picking...

First, I would have expected you to remove the chip and install the socket where the chip was, so as to use the same connections on the backside  of the board.

Second... you have the socket in "backwards" although this doesn't really matter as long as you get the chip in "forwards". Note the "u" indicator on the chip, which indicates the "left end" of the chip and pin 1 the bottom left pin. Note the "u" or notch on the end of the socket..... Normally we set things up so these match, in case someone else comes along, or even yourself later, and replaces the chip, so that the orientation is correct.

   TK:
   Ok, thanks for the info about the U, I had not noticed it on the socket, as there is a 0 on one end, and a 16 where you placed the circle. But, like you said it does not matter as long as I get the chip itself in correctly. I left the old TL chip in for now until I get some wire braid, but it's so close to the new TL chip that I don't want risk damaging the board, in getting the old chip out.
   The duty cycle pot is a 20k, and frequency pot is 50K.  And yes, the 18v zener diodes are both facing each other, even though I placed them differently.
   I'll try to yank the old TL chip. It does not really matter if it's there or not. I just didn't want to heat the PCB too much trying to get it out. As I don't have the wire braid, just a solder sucker (baby nose cleaner). And for this rebuild job I really do need acid flux, as rosin core gets everything all gummy and black. Yuk!!!
   You mentioned, " Note the "u" indicator on the chip, which indicates the "left end" of the chip and pin 1 the bottom left pin". 
Isn't the #1 pin (left top of the U) in the chip? Not the "left bottom" as you mention above.

Here below is the close up of Pinoytech's circuit design for the TL494, which is what I'm replicated.
    And a pic of his whole circuit, as well as a top view. I'm just replicating the TL part of it, though.
    Makes me wonder if he ever built this up, as he doesn't answer me when I've asked him. As there may be a snare in any and all of these unknown circuits.
    Just who designed them, when, and did they test them, and where are the results thereof.

[N20Wolf]

Hi, it's been a while since i've posted something here. I've found something that i can't explain to myself.
I want to understand what and why this happens.
I've attached a coil diagram.
At a certain frequency on the pushpull driver at around 17Khz something happens on the output of the grenade coil and on the output of the series resonance capacitors (340nF) and i have 68nF on the grenade output.
The frequency on those spots jumps from 16Khz to 54Khz !!!
Under the grenade coil i use an aluminium coil.
My question is why I get 2x-3x in frequency change.
Light blue sines = series capacitor.
Dark blue =  grenade output

In the last attachment is how the scope images used to look without aluminium coil on the first layer of the pipe.
Till now i did not get any amplification effect. Tried with multiple tesla secondaries and primaries, aluminium/copper different lengths.
On this setup i have used a TV Yoke tesla byfilar primary with 2x12Turns 1,5FY wire and in the secondary normal 2.5 MYF wire 10 Turns.
Good luck!

Hello! Oscillograms from the conference of Sergei Alekseev. Video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZ-67b0OZgo&t=108s

[TinselKoala]

NO! Absolutely do NOT use acid flux!  You can clean off the "gummy" residue from rosin flux with isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol and cotton swabs.

Acid flux will wind up causing all kinds of problems. You may get your circuit to work the first day, but the acid will corrode stuff over time and wreak havoc with the integrity of your connections. I've even seen it eat all the way through chip pins. Most of the time you can't even clean enough of it off to make a difference.

The very thought of using acid flux on an electronic circuit gives me the willies, flashbacks to bad repair experiences and nightmares. Please please please DON'T do it.


Unless of course it is the key to overunity.... which I seriously doubt.   

[TinselKoala]

You mentioned, " Note the "u" indicator on the chip, which indicates the "left end" of the chip and pin 1 the bottom left pin". 
Isn't the #1 pin (left top of the U) in the chip? Not the "left bottom" as you mention above.

Uh... no.  Maybe that's why your circuit doesn't work properly... although I can't imagine it working at all if you have the pin assignments completely wrong.


See the image below, from the TI TL494 data sheet. I've rotated it so you can see that when the "U" is on the left in the Top View, pin 1 is at bottom left, and pin numbers proceed counterclockwise around the chip from there. This is standard for all DIP chips that I have ever seen (although some use a "dot" or other marker for the left end).


(Of course if you are looking at the BOTTOM view (as on the solder side of the circuit board) then Pin 1 is at top left and the numbering proceeds clockwise around the chip. But there is generally no "u" marker on the bottom of the chip. This can be so confusing that when I put circuits like this together I always mark at least some of the pin numbers on the bottom side of the circuit board, and check several times to make sure I have it right. )