Crystal Cell Research

[Pirate88179]

YES, YES and YES. She is a beauty. Not strong but enough for in the night bother you.


It is VERY TRICKY to make the resin work correctly. I don't know why YET but I am testing how to get there correctly.


I will make a video soon showing this ONE cell working so well. I am actually a little uncomfortable to show her because it is not much light, but believe me, she is running very, very well.


Sometimes things happened by chance and I was lucky to get that one right at first because many tries are not working.


BUT I am learning something very important, it is necessary to let the cell's crystal structure to grow first, stop the initial corrosion and only then seal it.


Fausto.

Fausto:

If it is not needed for your sealing material to be transparent, you can just use regular epoxy that would be a fraction of the cost.  Although, your final product may look better with the clear resin, but if it is just for sealing reasons, larger quantities of epoxy are available at a reasonable cost.  Folks that supply aircraft builders and surfboard makers are a good place to start.  Those folks use it by the gallon and even 5 gallon containers.

Bill

[jbignes5]

YES, YES and YES. She is a beauty. Not strong but enough for in the night bother you.


It is VERY TRICKY to make the resin work correctly. I don't know why YET but I am testing how to get there correctly.


I will make a video soon showing this ONE cell working so well. I am actually a little uncomfortable to show her because it is not much light, but believe me, she is running very, very well.


Sometimes things happened by chance and I was lucky to get that one right at first because many tries are not working.


BUT I am learning something very important, it is necessary to let the cell's crystal structure to grow first, stop the initial corrosion and only then seal it.


Fausto.

Yes all of my work had a growth period once grown it has limits as well. Being sealed is something I did not work with although my crystal cells were open ended on one side (the glass jar). I tried it like that to prove to myself that in a dielectric it would work like normal and it does. In my opinion the crystal structure creates a barrier that is perfect for the metal being used. It grows along the natural in and outs of the metal object suspended in the fluid. We are merely drawing from the standing voltage of the metal object in relation to the other electrode. And losses in the fluid or crystals will hamper the output so using conductive crystals enhances the power output. Using this kind of batter is best with pulsing circuits with a duty cycle of 50% or less. This allows for the metal to rebalance to the standing voltage better and last much longer. Protecting that metal is of the utmost importance for lifespan and I think you did a bangup job of figuring out what protects very active magnesium. Aluminum seems to like borax as a protective coating as I have found out. Although my standing voltage was of a smaller span of about 1 volt. This would be a better cell because the current is lower and aluminum is cheaper and lighter then magnesium.


I am not saying you cell isn't worth it but only saying it would be cheaper and way lighter. Also aluminum is sold in foils and that would be the best product to use in this process. Graphite can come on sheets that are sprayed and aligned by voltage stimulation while the paper or plastic is used as a base. I would recommend paper products like towels because they will allow fluid to pass in the formation or growth period. Using a light load like an oscillated led circuit is best because as the crystals are forming any irregularities are smoothed out by the agitation of the pulsed Draw from the aluminum or magnesium. You could also think of it like this. When they pour cement they agitate it by vibrators to expel water and get a tighter pack of the sand. This would be the same procedure but used for uniformity of the formed crystals protecting the metal electrode. To save space one could paint or airbrush both sides of the spacer dielectric used, porous or not. A dual layer electrode would be best because of the way the crystals grow from the metal electrode and sink into the graphite spacer dielectric. Graphite sheets are easy to find now as well and making them could be as easy as using a graphite ink in a printer. So cells would become dual cells with liquid only for that cell pair. Then you could parallel many pairs to increase the current capabilities.


I do have to say if you beat the magnesium decay issue that is a major break to making cells last way longer with highly reactive metal like magnesium. I remember you showing the making of sealed units. If that is the same thing then Bravo to you! Share and lets start making this place a better world.


Also you are very right in knowing when to halt the cells production of crystal structure. Too much and it breaks through the barrier that I described. To little and the metal looses integrity or decays. oxygen seems to be the culprit here and sealing the unit will make it better in the long run. The crystalline barrier I am talking about is an oxide of the metal which will eat a small portion to construct the barrier. Once it is formed the metal stays perfect. We need to manage the time spent on growing and conditioning the cells for better power production.

[mscoffman]

Reference to NCP1400, NCP1402 voltage multiplier regulator;

http://www.overunity.com/6123/joule-thief/16600/#.VAYEpcW-2dk

[Pirate88179]

Reference to NCP1400, NCP1402 voltage multiplier regulator;

http://www.overunity.com/6123/joule-thief/16600/#.VAYEpcW-2dk

I am using the 1402 now and it is great!  This will output 3.3 volts and run a battery down to .3 volts.  The only catch is, it will not start below .8 volts but, if you leave it running it will stay on down to .3 volts.  I am using the assembled board available from sparkfun, that way I did not have to try to solder those very, very tiny chips.  I give this board a huge thumbs up.

Bill

[plengo]

I am using the 1402 now and it is great!  This will output 3.3 volts and run a battery down to .3 volts.  The only catch is, it will not start below .8 volts but, if you leave it running it will stay on down to .3 volts.  I am using the assembled board available from sparkfun, that way I did not have to try to solder those very, very tiny chips.  I give this board a huge thumbs up.

Bill

Would you be willing to build me a few and sell me? I would like to test them in my cells.


And why Pirate88179?


Fausto.