Overunity.com Archives is Temporarily on Read Mode Only!



Free Energy will change the World - Free Energy will stop Climate Change - Free Energy will give us hope
and we will not surrender until free energy will be enabled all over the world, to power planes, cars, ships and trains.
Free energy will help the poor to become independent of needing expensive fuels.
So all in all Free energy will bring far more peace to the world than any other invention has already brought to the world.
Those beautiful words were written by Stefan Hartmann/Owner/Admin at overunity.com
Unfortunately now, Stefan Hartmann is very ill and He needs our help
Stefan wanted that I have all these massive data to get it back online
even being as ill as Stefan is, he transferred all databases and folders
that without his help, this Forum Archives would have never been published here
so, please, as the Webmaster and Creator of this Forum, I am asking that you help him
by making a donation on the Paypal Button above
Thanks to ALL for your help!!


Electron Reversing Device

Started by tinman, January 09, 2013, 06:49:12 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

e2matrix

Hi Milehigh,  I thought you understood by now I like to look to the 'magical' side of metaphysical ;)     Anyway it was just a quick thought however I do believe there may be some 'magic' in a Tesla bifilar pancake coil.
I fired up the circuit and here are some observations.  First I'll mention some of the items used:  two precision resistors in parallel that yielded 3.6 Ohms including the resistance of the clip leads.  1N4004 diodes.  High intensity 5mm LED's - 3 warm and 1 cool white.  Very small pancake bifilar coil -- probably only around 10 feet of twin 22 ga. wire.  I later changed to using a bifilar bi-toroid.  2200 uf electrolytic and a 150 uf electrolytic.  One digital function generator with controls for amplitude, offset, duty cycle, sweep, etc. all in square wave mode although I only played with the amplitude, duty cycle and offset.   I used a Fluke 87 model III true RMS meter which will go to 200 Khz.  My main test frequency was right around 528 Hz so this is well within the range of the Fluke frequency capabilities.   I found the LED outputs dropped off at higher frequencies.   

   I noticed after playing around a bit was that one lead to the pancake coil had fallen off.  With that setup I was having the turn the FG output as low as it would go.  In changing the offset all the way down or all the way up would toggle between the set of 3 LED's glowing very bright or the 1 LED glowing very bright (At maximum brightness on either set the o-scope appeared flatlined on the centerline).  Upon finding the loose cliplead and reattaching it that all changed to need a higher output from the FG which was no surprise as the pancake coil is very low resistance or impedance across the output of the FG.  It still worked but not much brightness.  I was using a 400 Mhz digital scope and the patterns were basic square wave.
      I then switched to the bifilar bi-toroid since I felt the pancake was too small and too low resistance.   Although the bi-toroid didn't have a lot more wire on it than the pancake it did much better in brightness of the LED's at the same FG output.   All this so far was just quick and dirty tests.   What I think was interesting though is what I was seeing on the Fluke meter.  Depending on the offset and duty cycle I would mostly see anything from about 5 ma to 180 ma or so.  I'll have to go back to verify some of this as I was just flying through a bunch of different little variations and tests.
      But what was most interesting was to see the current go completely to Zero and even negative to about 180 ma depending on the FG settings while still seeing the LED's lit bright.  The Fluke meter was beween the positive of the FG and the input to the circuit.  I'll probably need to go back and re-read poynt's explanation again but given the meter and it's specs does it seem there is something odd here?   Note that both the single 'load' LED and the 3 LED's were lit fairly bright all the way from a positive current up to about 180 ma to Zero to a negative current of about 180 ma.   They were lit the entire time I swept from positive current to negative current.   So I'll admit I'm mostly too lazy to figure out an explanation if that is really an oddity but I'm starting to get some ideas.  BTW the scope patterns were no longer square wave when I was using the bi-toroid. 
One other thing I'll say again is that when I was changing the FG offset and the o-scope pattern was flat lined on the center line it seems odd to have the LED's lit so bright.  I'm going to recheck that aspect now with current readings as I don't think I had the meter hooked up when I observed that. 

e2matrix

Here are a couple corrections and further observations to my previous post.   When I thought the o-scope was showing flat line at certain offsets it was with the pancake coil and I found when I turned it to maximum sensitivity (1 millivolt per division) there was still a small square wave but very low voltage - probably less than 1/3 millivolt.    Maximum LED brightness does not occur at maximum positive or maximum negative current.  At least according the my meter the maximum pos. or maximum neg. current was actually producing about the lowest brightness.  Zero current through about 140ma pos or neg was nearly the same brightness.  All this was at the same amplitude FG output and the current was being varied by changing the offset for that test.  I'm not really sure what to make of all this right now but I'm tossing it out there for those who are a lot more familiar with such data.   At my age it mostly comes down to a 'need to know' basis and I don't really need to know why but only if it's something significant and I'll even leave that up the members here who have a lot more experience with all this.   I'll be glad to do other tests if anyone can suggest some with this setup.   
I also want to add for anyone not familiar with the Fluke 87 III that in the milliamp current mode it is auto sensing for either DC or AC.   So if this can read to 200 Khz and I was at only 528 Hz wouldn't it see the AC current from the FG regardless of the offset?  Most of my tests were at 50% duty cycle but when changing the offset I was getting a range in the current from about 180 ma positive through zero to negative 180 ma.  I suppose the logical explanation is that the meter was seeing the AC but the offset was making it positive or negative.  But what about when the current was Zero ma and the LED's bright?   It's an auto AC and DC current meter which can read either and switches automatically.   Seems a bit odd but mostly thinking out loud here.... I'm going to look a bit more on that situation with the o-scope.   

e2matrix

Quote from: poynt99 on January 09, 2013, 09:39:44 PM
In some cases, some current can be returned to the battery. We saw this with Rose's circuit. However, this is by no means a sign of OU.

In terms of current, that 555 circuit is using a fraction of what those LED's are, so if you want to know if the circuit is OU or not, monitor the average battery current. If the meter starts "spinning backwards", then you might have something.


I just bought a bunch more 555's a couple weeks ago so if this continues to look interesting I'll try building a square wave gen with a 555 so it can all be run off battery and see about looping any apparent excess back to the battery.    I need to do a better pancake coil too since I believe if there is any real unusual activity here that it will likely be the result of that coil.   

TinselKoala

@Tinman: thanks for posting the oscillator circuit. I agree with MH... it looks a bit weird, but if it works.... it works.  I've gathered most of the components together to build a duplicate (still searching my stash for a 500K pot, though). I somehow thought that this was a commercial product you bought?

It would be nice to know the inductance of your Tesla bifilar pancake coil. You can probably determine it "close enough" by putting it in parallel with a known capacitor, stimulating it with your FG, and looking for the resonant frequency of the tank, then solving for the inductance value.

If you have or can get an Arduino, the inductometer is simple and easy to make, and you don't need the LCD screen that I used, you can get the output on your computer using the Arduino IDE Serial Monitor tool. An Arduino is incredibly useful for all kinds of things and I think that one should be a part of any well-equipped laboratory. The Arduino, a comparator or op-amp wired as comparator, and a known 2uF cap is pretty much all you need to make a fairly accurate inductance meter that works by "punching" the tank circuit and looking at the actual resonant frequency and doing the math from that.

I hope you are managing to stay cool, mate. I see from the map that many areas are topping 50 degrees..... that's hot, even for Texas. Two summers ago we had weeks of over 40 degrees along with high humidity, and I lived in the Mojave in California for a while where it got to 45 or so with low humidity. I can't even imagine what 50 degrees feels like outside a sauna.

tinman

Ok to answer some question's
First up,i make no claims of any type,other than what i see is something i havnt seen befor.
And as you will see in a previous post of mine,i expected just as TK an.99 said-they are averaging current flows.
So a question of my own would be-if the current is changing direction(as it is) then why do the meters not read in AC insted of DC?
At a guess i would think this could be due to the wave shape itself,in that the meters must see a sign wave and not a square wave to read in AC mode.
But if it is another reason,then i would like to know-as this is how we learn.

Now the r3,150uf cap and diode are not for any operational purpose of the circuit.As mentioned in one of the video's,it is for a voltage reference point only.This tells me how much voltage the circuit is running on.The diode loss must also be added to that voltage>in my case it is +.5 volts for those diodes.
Although the FG may be useing so many miliamps at 12 volt's,that is not what the circuit in question is useing.

What we need to understand here is im not interested in the efficiency of the FG-that is just our power supply.
I look at the FG as a transformer that puts out an AC square wave,and the negative(ground) is our neutral.
So useing the 150uf cap(our voltage reference point)i can see that the peak voltage being delivered by our transforme(FG) is about 4.5 volt's.This i have verified with the scope placed on the output's of the FG,and reading from peak to peak.

Now as mile high pointed out-the FG circuit look's no quite right.
First up,the circuit is the one in the instruction's that come with the kit from jaycar.
The confusion may be because i have removed the part of the circuit that was for a sawtooth wave,as this did not make the setup function.
Maybe i should have left it on ,so as to avoid the confusion.
But as i stated above,im not interested in how efficient the FG is-i am only interested in what the circuit itself is doing.

Now the other thing i would like to say is that when you place some of Tesla's work (in this case the BPC)in your circuit's,by no means is that just a plain old circuit.
In my next video,i will show just what the BPC can achieve that no other coil can-that i have seen anyway.

The other thing that i find interesting is the amount of current going into the circuit,and the amount of current being dissipated across the LED's.
Also remember that the current on the load LED (orange one) is pure DC ,not pulsed.

So i guess the next thing to do would be to get a current input,and the current output across the LED's

But the thing i need you to understand is this-in no way do i claim any OU from this circuit.
What i am doing is sharing something i found to be interesting.