Some Interesting Results with a 3 Phase Motor - 95 Watts Free?

[JouleSeeker]

Stunning results really, E2M...

3 Phase motor wired Rotorverter style running off single phase 120 VAC uses:  355 Watts.
                 3 Phase motor wired Rotorverter style running off single phase 120 VAC Plus 60 watt light bulb (putting out about 5 times
                 the Lux it normally does when running only off direct 120 VAC) uses: 320 Watts
                  Motor speed stays exactly the same : 1732 RPM
                  Power used by bulb alone measured as 59.8 Watts. 
                  Expected power draw would have been 415 Watts for motor plus bulb.
                  Measured power draw was 320 Watts for motor plus bulb. 
                  Test with bulb and motor running at same time  but with the bulb directly across the AC input to the motor: 420 Watts and lower   brightness (730 Lux). 

Is the 3-phase motor normally 220V input (with 3 phases)?   Do you think that just about any 3 phase motor would work? can you specify the brand you used?
Pls show how the cap is wired in, if you welcome replication attempts.

The bulb - is it tied to the hot or neutral side of the 120 VAC input?
Did you use a Variac?
What kind of Watt Meter?

Thanks!  exciting stuff.

[e2matrix]

Hi Mags and Doc,   As far as loading goes I'm guessing from a hand test that this does not have as much torque as it would running in 3 phase mode.   But that's a known in Rotoverter configurations.   It has torque but I'm sure when this is running in normal mode from either 280 volt 3 phase or 480 volt 3 phase (it can work on either voltage) it will have a lot more torque and judging from the roughly 1" diameter shaft it's made to do some real work. 


Brand is Sukeb which is an Italian make.   I got a some help from UFOPolitics (one EF ) when I got the motor as he's a motor guru and part Italian    Pics below show the wiring and it was setup as shown on the right side of the motor label.   That's your usual Rotoverter setup as shown in that document above.  The white wire and the dual fused red wire are what goes to the 120 VAC.   I tried putting the bulb across all combinations but I believe the best was across the white wire on the cap and the black wire coming in from 120 VAC.   I think the black wire was going to the hot side of the AC but I'm not sure and since I wasn't using ground it may not have made much difference. 


There may be an explanation for the situation observed that falls into normal electrical theory.   I'm not sure but it seems this may fit what has been described in the document as radiant energy or as Bedini has said radiant energy is one and the same as reactive power.   I will continue trying some other things with this motor setup as there are a lot of ideas I have in mind for it.   


I've got a good heavy duty Variac but didn't use it here as it's a panel mount type and I need to make an enclosure for it.   That's on the to do list    Meter is a Kill A Watt model P4400.  The Cap is wired as in the document - pic below. 

[e2matrix]

In the picture of the actual motor that shows wiring ignore the small 6 terminal block on the right.   That was for the automatic motor brake when running in 3 phase mode (it needs power to the brake or motor won't turn) so I uninstalled the brake and also the fan (fan is normally removed for a Rotoverter setup). 

[e2matrix]

A couple more pics of this motor and the wiring diagram it came with:
These pictures are before I rewired it and before the brake was removed.

[MenofFather]

Input is 350 W, output 60 W lamp?