Proof that Flyback alone is enough to sustain a self-runner

[VortexTurtle]

Hey there all,

Here is the rundown:   I built a simple pulse motor similar to the one Lidmotor has. I have dubbed it "The Simple Amazing Pulse Motor". I have been playing with it for a week or so now.   I actually got it tuned to the point where it is no longer draining the battery I have connected.  The battery is a single-cell NiMH 1.2V 2000mAH.  I have made a video of it for all to check out.   I am going to leave it running until something happens to stop this effect from manifesting, whether that be a cat messing with it, the nail-axle that I'm using breaking free from it's position, or whatever else may happen to mess up my tuning.  Right now, it is all about the positioning of the reed switch that matters... Once I got the device to create/allow the flyback to make it back to the battery every single time the magnetic field of the coil collapsed, the effect began manifesting itself. 

I wanted to start a thread for this device so I could share it with you all, and so I can better understand exactly what is happening, and what the factors are that matter most in re-creating this effect.  I will gladly take more video for you all, and draw up to-scale diagrams of the parts necessary to attempt a recreation of it if you would like. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5AMHdxCbo3g

(sorry for the narrow vid, I only have my cell phone camera to use for now)

[captainfletcher]

Hello,
We need a schematic diagram of this motor.
After that I can make a replication because I have many idea.
Sorry, english is not my native langage.

[conradelektro]

Hey there all,

Here is the rundown:   I built a simple pulse motor similar to the one Lidmotor has. I have dubbed it "The Simple Amazing Pulse Motor". I have been playing with it for a week or so now.   I actually got it tuned to the point where it is no longer draining the battery I have connected.

.....

You could do the following simple test:

- put a 1000 µF or 4700 µF electrolytic capacitor in parallel to the battery (any electrolytic capacitor with more than 1000 µF will do)

- let the motor run for a few minutes (just to stabilise everything)

- disconect the battery and look how long the motor keeps running

Hint: if the motor is producing more (e.g. during the "fly back") than it is consuming, it should run on an electrolytic capacitor (after the electrolytic capacitor has been charged with the battery). The battery has such a high capacity (in comparison to the low power requirement of the motor) that it would take days to get any meaningful reading. So, a 1000 µF electrolytic capacitor should make the effect (if it is real) observable within seconds or minutes.

I have a pulse motor (with a reed switch) running more than a week with a 1.2 Volt battery. With a 1000 µF electrolytic capacitor the motor stops after a few minutes. Therefore, if you insist on a battery, you have to run the motor for many days in order to measure anything interesting. Better you test, as I describe above, with an electrolytic capacitor. You can of course use any type of capacitor with 1000 µF or more, but an electrolytic capacitor is the least expensive.

Greetings, Conrad

[Magluvin]

One thing to make sure of when you get this effect, make sure the battery wasnt being used before connecting it to the motor.

If the batt was being used by the motor before you got the reed switch in the 'right' place, the motor could have been running less efficient at the time and pulled more current from the battery, and now that it is running very eff, the battery may be still recovering from the heavier use. Like if after you got the reed in the right place, it is likely that if you turned off the motor and measured the battery, you may have seen the battery climb a bit faster than when the motor is running very efficiently. I have been fooled by this before.

So once you have your reed in the right spot, use some masking tape to mark the spot where the reed is setting on the table. Make a square around the reed base without moving the reed. Then you can always put it back if it is moved.  Now try a battery that has been resting for a few hours so that the voltage settles and sits at that voltage.

Use another battery to start the motor to get it up to speed, then switch out the battery for the settled test battery. If you see voltage climb on the newly installed settled battery, then you may have something.  The reason for the substitute battery to get it up to speed, so that the test battery isnt getting a small beating while starting the motor. There could be enough drain on the test battery during start up that the battery could take a while to 'recover' and possibly be seen as a gain when it is only us being tricked into thinking so.

Mags

[Jimboot]

Reminds me of the ossie motor I got 11mins off a 1farrad cap.