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Overunity Machines Forum



Bedini Transistor Problem

Started by earthbound0729, January 10, 2016, 12:18:15 AM

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magnetman12003

Quote from: earthbound0729 on January 10, 2016, 12:18:15 AM
Hello All,

I seem to be having a Bedini Transistor Problem.

A little history first:
Coil is 8 filar
Transistors used- TIP3055, SC5027
Battery- 12 volt 18ah

Try a TIP35C TRANSISTOR.  I HAVE HAD GOOD LUCK WITH THAT. NEVER BURNED OUT.

I have built the Bedini circuit described in the Bedini Beginner's Handbook. I have noticed that the transistor Collector-Emitter appears to be in an open state as soon as I connect the run battery. This is proven because of the light I have connected across the Collector and base. I am using a 12 volt car light merely to check to see if there is voltage available at anytime. The base is not even energized in the normal way.
This is very bizarre as I even checked it without the Trigger coil wires connected to anything on my second go round and the magnets are not being rotated.
This is being done via a breadboard.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
TY,
earthbound


I honestly cannot figure any other way that the circuit could be in an open state.

earthbound0729

Alright everyone.
Here are some pictures to see.

The first shows a complete topdown view of the entire project. Crude but everything is in order as far as I know. I built everything according to the plans.

The 2nd one shows only the small breadboard.
The SC5027 is an NPN with the 123 pins being Base, Collector and Emitter. I used this one because of the high voltages allowed. I also tried the TIP3055 which has the same pin configuration. Neither one worked in my setup.

Interestingly enough when I used these same transistors with the base being controlled by my Arduino and using much lower voltages across the Collector and Emitter, it lit an LED without incident.

The 3rd picture show only the 12 volt car light across the C-E junction.  The standard in the Bedini circuit, although has the voltage being 100 volts for a Neon bulb. I do have those as well, but didn't think to use them during this experiment as I was only interested in being sure the circuit is working at all, not in how much voltage is being generated.

Thanks to anyone who can help sort this out. I am all ears.
earthbound

citfta

Ok a couple more questions.  Do you have a meter?  Can you post the schematic for us to look at?  I am talking about the electronic drawing that shows how all the parts get connected together.  I see one thing that doesn't look right if this is supposed to be the 8filer version of the SSG.  You don't appear to have the one end of the trigger winding connected to ground.  At least as far as I can tell from following the clip leads around.  It also appears you only have some of the 8filer wires connected.  How did you decide which ones to connect?  You also need to know the neon is to protect the transistor from the high voltage spikes.  You do not want to run the circuit without the charge battery as then you will be flashing the neon bulb as it protects the transistor.  I can't really tell, so what kind of magnets do you have on the small wheel?  This whole circuit works much better with a small bicycle wheel and a few more magnets.  Those small wheels can be used but it takes some pretty good knowledge about how to tune things to get them working right.  One last question, have you built a simple bifiler SSG and gotten it to work?

earthbound0729

hello citfta and all others,

Here is the circuit picture.

I do have a meter. How would you wish for me to try this?

I am only connecting a single Main coil wire to a single transistor. In this circuit the trigger wire is connected at one point as seen in the circuit drawing. In another attempt, The trigger coil is not connected at all. The point is, there is voltage coming through the Collector-Emitter without there being any input to the Base. That is why it appears to me that there is a closed connection through there.

I am purposely not using a charge battery and using the light to merely show the voltage coming off the Main coil, but as I have said, I get power right from the battery through the Collector- Emitter, and there is no reason to even attempt spinning the wheel rotor at this point because the circuit is not right in some way.

My magnets are 5/8" neodymiums. If I interrupt the power myself I can get the rotor to spin. Of course it is impossible to keep that up efficiently.

QuoteOne last question, have you built a simple bifiler SSG and gotten it to work?
No I have not. I felt this would work the same way if I only used  1 of my 7 main coil wires and the trigger coil wires, as long as i could work out the kinks.

TY,
earthbound

citfta

I am going to suggest a few things to try.  First you should know that neos are not recommended as they are too strong for this circuit.  You only need a magnet strong enough to trigger the base of the transistor.  But we will see if we can get it running with what you have.  I am going to give you a set of steps to follow.  Please complete each step in order and if you have a problem then ask and we will solve that problem before going to the next step.

For the first step I want you to install the neon from the collector to the emitter to protect the transistor for when we get your circuit working.

From your description of your problem I am understanding that as soon as you try to run the circuit the coil energizes and and does not turn back off.  It that is correct then the coil should either be attracting a magnet and holding it so the rotor can't turn or it should be repelling the magnets away from the coil.  If the coil is attracting a magnet and holding it then you need to swap the ends of the power coil.  By that I mean to take the end that is connected to the battery and connect it to the collector and take the end that was connected to the collector and connect it to the battery.  After this connect power to the circuit and give the wheel a very hard spin.

If the coil when powered keeps pushing the magnets away then you need to swap the trigger coil ends and then try it again with a hard spin.  After you get it to work you need to replace the resistor with a pot (potentiometer) so that you can tune the circuit with a charge battery connected.

If those suggestions don't work then I need you to take some measurements with your meter.  With power to the circuit.  I want you to measure the voltage at the collector by putting one meter lead at the emitter and the other end at the collector.  I also want you to measure the voltage at the base by leaving one lead on the emitter and putting the other lead on the base connection.  Please post that information so we can work out what to try next.  I don't think we will need to do this as I think the above steps should solve your problem but I included this to give you some more help.

Let me know what happens and good luck.
Carroll

PS: I just realized something.  If you have not tried this circuit without the automotive bulb that is probably the cause of your trouble.  Connecting the bulb from collector to emitter creates a low resistance path the will turn on the coil and cause problems.  Do not connect the auto bulb to any part of the circuit and then test everything again.