Common batteries are free energy sources

[mondrasek]

Last Firday I was able to hook up my home-wound bifilar coil in place of the stock (sort of) solenoid coil.  I CA'd another neo magnet to the upper portion of the switch contact arm and was able to clamp the new solenoid in place to act on it.  Once I switched the working 250V 22uF cap over to a recently acquired photo-flash 270V 130 uF cap it took off and ran great.  In fact I could remove the extra alligator clip weight at the top of the switch arm and it would clatter along at around 48Hz (an all time high new record).  Checking the second coil revealed very small bemf spikes, probably due to the arcing on the contacts and therefore no bemf at all as MSCoffman had said.  But I was not 100% confident in these results since the temporary set up had the new solenoid clamped to a steel bar.  I wanted to rule out all the other magnetic effects and so set forth on building a not conductive set up again.

After several delays including replacing a broken power strip that came with the house (that caused me to get shocked when I plugged in metal bodied power tools) and a trip to the zoo (great fun for the baby and all), I was able to finish rebuilding the set up with the home-wound coil mounted to a solid, non-conductive test platform again.

Still no bemf on the secondary coil.  MSCoffman wins again.  Not that I really expected anything else, but it was one more simple test to take advantage of and gain the first hand experience.

The new coil ohms out at 28.6 now, but rises to about 29.2 as it heats up due to the high current draw.  I placed the secondary coil in series to increase the resistance.  I then placed a 25 ohm potentiometer in series to see those effect.  Increasing the resistance (lowering the current) decreases the frequency.  So does pushing the CG of the switch arm further away from the pivot point by adding weight (alligator clip or neos) higher up on the switch arm.

So I believe I've got a system that is tunable in two ways:  electrically, and mechanically.  I wonder if it is possible to tune them to the same frequency, but 90 degrees out of phase?  I think it might be, because one thing I noticed:  No matter how much extra resistance I added to the solenoid circuit it would always land on the the contacts that charges the solenoid and cap for the same relative percentage of the switching period.  I thought I might be able to have it stay on the contact for a shorter amount of time by adjusting the electronics, but this seems to be regulated by the mechanical frequency through the inertia of the switch arm.  So it may be possible to retard the break of the contacts (inductor and cap discharge start) to be 90 degrees out of phase with the make of the contacts (inductor and cap charge start) with regards to the electrical resonance frequency.  Just random thoughts...

Questions for any and all:

1)  Should I be trying to tune electrically for an 18 V pulse since the solenoid is receiving alternating +9 V to -9 V DV input?
2)  Does breaking the circuit because of the break before make nature of the relay mean that tuning this circuit electrically is not possible?
3)  Where the hell is my induction meter?
4)  How is a "photo-flash" cap different from any other electrolytic cap of the same V an F ratings?

I'm also seeing another limitation in the mechanical build of my relay.  My pivot has too much slop for these higher frequencies.  The pin is just too loose in the pivot tube, making for a sloppy hinge.  If I can find some .030" carbon fiber rod it could greatly improve the fit and hopefully improve self lubrication.  I've got some .020 from the local hobby store from an old project so I am hopefull they have what I want locally.

M.

[nievesoliveras]

Hi!

I cannot give you any counsel now because I still dont understand your arrangement. But I can tell that I did a replication of a circuit I found somewhere in this site maybe. And I am charging batteries with it. It is made with only 4 diodes and four batteries like the tesla switch, but simpler. If anyone wants me to post the circuit I will.

Jesus

[infringer]

Jesus why ask permission why not post it 

[nievesoliveras]

Hi!

The circuit is very simple.

Jesus

[mondrasek]

I had a total breakdown of the relay early last week.  I was cutting down the switch contact arm to increase the switching frequency and dislodged the magnet.  While trying to disassemble the set up to repair *without* completely breaking down the external solenoid stand I bent the switch contacts.  It would still run but would never give a symmetric trace again.  So I built #4.

I was very proud of #4.  It was the first time I had been able to construct one of these modified relays without dropping and bending either the switch arm contacts and/or the base contacts.  I also was able to incorporate the .030 carbon fiber switch pivot pin, though it is still too loose.  I think I'll swage the aluminum tube down a bit on the next build.

So everything looked exceedingly great until I tried to fire it up.  It ran, but the trace was just wrong.  After ringing it all out I realized that switch 1 and 3 common were shorted.  They were both making contact with the aluminum hinge tube!  And once together, the "relay" is not able to be fully disassembled, so I tried to repair as best I could while assembled.  Long story short:  I destroyed and then removed contact #1, leaving only three working dual throw contacts.  But I had also reread the Eike Mueller report on testing with Tesla switch with Bedini and realized figure T-6 was the design for the Tesla switch set up using only three dual throw contacts.  I had wanted to test how this compared to the four switch design, but that is not possible with this relay iteration.  But at least I could continue to use my current relay and rewired to the Mueller report set up, which is exceedingly more elegant (go figure).

The goal of this relay build was to eliminate any unnecessary mass down by the switch contacts, like the neo that was present from when I was using the internal solenoid.  Hopefully this lighter switch arm will allow for running at higher frequencies if needed.

So I hooked up the 9V NiCds to the Mueller design and it ran great.  In fact, I soon learned it would run WITHOUT the cap!  It arcs across the contacts when I run it like this and made quite a bit of RF interference that was picked up by the baby monitor I had with me when I first got it running.  Very exciting.

I picked up four small 6V SLA's this morning and have them installed in place of the NiCds now.  Now it's time for some experiments.  The magnet being push/pulled by the solenoid coil is now mounted to it's own adjustable plate so it can be moved up or down the switch arm.  The solenoid can also be adjusted up and down and closer or further away from the magnet.  I have other magnet sizes to play with as well.  So I think I can adjust all the mechanical and electrical properties to run at different frequencies.  Anything anyone would like tested?

Here are some pictures of the voltage traces across the solenoid.  I am running now with a 200V 6.8uF cap just to suppress the arcing.  That trace is pretty clear and at 2V/div.  The other is a blurry shot of running with no cap to show the voltage spikes as the contacts make (bounce) and break.  I tried 4 times and could not get it to focus better so gave up.  It still gets the point across.  The scope is set at 10V/div to show the spikes.  If I set the probe to x10 the spikes can be seen hitting close to 300V.

Oh yeah, I finally got my DMM with LCR measuring capabilities.  The first order did not go through I guess.

Thanks,

M.