Overunity.com Archives is Temporarily on Read Mode Only!



Free Energy will change the World - Free Energy will stop Climate Change - Free Energy will give us hope
and we will not surrender until free energy will be enabled all over the world, to power planes, cars, ships and trains.
Free energy will help the poor to become independent of needing expensive fuels.
So all in all Free energy will bring far more peace to the world than any other invention has already brought to the world.
Those beautiful words were written by Stefan Hartmann/Owner/Admin at overunity.com
Unfortunately now, Stefan Hartmann is very ill and He needs our help
Stefan wanted that I have all these massive data to get it back online
even being as ill as Stefan is, he transferred all databases and folders
that without his help, this Forum Archives would have never been published here
so, please, as the Webmaster and Creator of these Archives, I am asking that you help him
by making a donation on the Paypal Button above.
You can visit us or register at my main site at:
Overunity Machines Forum



Is this the first selfrunning overunity motor w/o batteries ? Mike?s motor

Started by hartiberlin, February 14, 2007, 08:30:03 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 35 Guests are viewing this topic.

corona

Hi,
AFAIK the hall used is a low power hall effect sensor with common emitter output, that means that the output is connected to ground when magnet is near and not connected to anything(floating) when magnet is away.

The more standard tye of hall effect sensor has a voltage output that is proportional to the magnetic flux it detects, this type should be usable with an extra transistor and resistor so that the transistor switches on/off as you move magnet near/away.

I started doing it this way, but my hall seemed to chew up a lot of power, and ran hot (this was running it through a 5V zener reg, so I don't know why it was hot).

So now I'm looking for a better hall switch. One suggestion is to look in old computer fans, the cheaper the better. These fans all have hall's in them, and many of them will be the switching type of hall you want, although the first fan i pulled apart was a high quality one with ball bearings and a seperate ic in it, and the boring standard hall effect, nota  switching one.

hartiberlin

@NerzhDishual

You could also substitute the Hall IC via a reed relay switch,
which is turned on,when the magnet passes by.

You could probably notreach such high RPMs, but for a first quick
test this would be okay.
As the hall ICjust switches its open collector transistor on and
thus energizes the LED inside the SS relay, that could also be done
by a reed relay switch.

Regards, Stefan.

Stefan Hartmann, Moderator of the overunity.com forum

hartiberlin

@hstearnsjr
looks good your "Juicer" motor.

Do you drive the rotor via this juicer motor too ?
Or is it just only using the bearings and the shaft from it ?

Could you post a circuit diagram ?
Many thanks.

Regards, Stefan.
Stefan Hartmann, Moderator of the overunity.com forum

hstearnsjr

Quote from: hartiberlin on February 21, 2007, 07:22:14 PM
@hstearnsjr
looks good your "Juicer" motor.

Do you drive the rotor via this juicer motor too ?
Or is it just only using the bearings and the shaft from it ?

Could you post a circuit diagram ?
Many thanks.

Regards, Stefan.


I did not use the juicer motor when running, but the juicer induction motor is very handy when taking measurements ( voltage/rpm on both coils, and 63000 uF capacitor charging time / RPM etc. ).

I'll send a schematic when I draw one and photograph it ( I don't have schematic entry software -- any suggestions? ).  It's just an inductive pickup, a 555 timer, and a 2N3055 transistor from the capacitor.

Hoyt A. Stearns Jr.
Scottsdale, Arizona US
hoyt-stearns@cox.net

hstearnsjr

Re: placing magnets

With my juicer motor, I found the easy way to position the magnets without having them move and stick together is to put a thin steel plate over the top of the rotor.  The magnets stick to that and I can slide them to the proper position. Then I tighten the straps and peel off the steel plate.  Before I did that the magnets slid together and made it very hard to position them.  I still have two magnets stuck together and I can't get them apart [ :-( ] .  I think I'll have to make a wooden tool to separage them.  I think I need a whole set of non-magnetic tools if I continue with this research.
Hoyt A. Stearns Jr.
Scottsdale, Arizona US
hoyt-stearns@cox.net