Overunity.com Archives is Temporarily on Read Mode Only!



Free Energy will change the World - Free Energy will stop Climate Change - Free Energy will give us hope
and we will not surrender until free energy will be enabled all over the world, to power planes, cars, ships and trains.
Free energy will help the poor to become independent of needing expensive fuels.
So all in all Free energy will bring far more peace to the world than any other invention has already brought to the world.
Those beautiful words were written by Stefan Hartmann/Owner/Admin at overunity.com
Unfortunately now, Stefan Hartmann is very ill and He needs our help
Stefan wanted that I have all these massive data to get it back online
even being as ill as Stefan is, he transferred all databases and folders
that without his help, this Forum Archives would have never been published here
so, please, as the Webmaster and Creator of these Archives, I am asking that you help him
by making a donation on the Paypal Button above.
You can visit us or register at my main site at:
Overunity Machines Forum



Is this the first selfrunning overunity motor w/o batteries ? Mike?s motor

Started by hartiberlin, February 14, 2007, 08:30:03 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 7 Guests are viewing this topic.

z_p_e

Peter,

I was thinking something like using a low-pass filter made from the coil and a known resistor value.

See http://engr.nmsu.edu/~etti/fall96/electronics/induct/induct.html

I would start with a 10k resistor. You should end up using a frequency of about 7.45kHz. You can just tell me what the "x" value is and I'll crunch it through the equation. Let me know what value of "r" and "R" also to make this calculation possible.

As for winding the coil, I think what I would do is wind the coil-mass on a 4.6" X 4.6" former, then "split" the coil-mass at the sides and feed the axle through. If you are using a threaded bolt, make sure it is taped or heat-shrunk so you don't scar the varnish off any of the windings.

This should give you a "random" splitting of the 3 or 4 windings and therefore average out the coupling among them. Because you've had to split the windings on one side, it will shrink in length somewhat, and hence using 4.6" instead of the desired 4.4".

Hope that all made sense.

Darren

Peterae


z_p_e

Guys,

A quick word about the magnets Mike used.

I believe they are a very common ceramic type, and they have the following dimensions:

3/8" X 7/8" X 1 7/8". Many places sell them (even some hardware stores like Home Depot)... here are a few with the best prices. If you can't find them, there is always Radio Shack, or The Source, but you'll pay double there. Going rate seems to be $1.99 US for 2.

http://www.magnetsource.com/Consumer%20Pages/Ceramic_Mags.html
http://www.allmagnetics.com/craft/ceramic.htm
http://hand-tools.hardwarestore.com/67-414-magnets.aspx

Mike stacked and glued two together to form one magnet, so you will need 12 magnets. It looks like he glued these to a wire spool to form his rotor. This spool looks to be between 1 7/8" and 2" in diameter.

I'm not sure if these are Grade 5 or 8 magnets....hopefully both will work.

There should be enough solid info now to go and build one of these!

Cheers,
Darren

Peterae

Im in the UK and magnets are like impossible to find, but i have about 50 of a similar shape and size that mike used, that were given to me a year or 2 ago, i have to use them, i have no choice, they are 42mm long 9mm height 16mm wide Ceramic.i have studied Mikes rotor and am going to copy it as best as i can, i will use steel washers either side as he has inside the nuts, i am going to look at a spool of fishing line tommorow to see the size of the spool is correct and see if i can get 1 that will do, i wonce did a lot of fishing and the spools reminded me of what mike used.I have ordered Hall switches, i have an SSR, i used to be a professional Proto type engineer so i am very good at building electronics stuff and very good at fault finding as i have also been a test technician, a tv engineer for 20 years.and am now an art dealer LOL so if it doesnt work i should be able to sell it as abstract art. :)
I got all the Discrete components. All i need is time.
I will see how far i get tommorow, i dont have much test equipment, but i am in the market for a scope and have seen a handheld digital scope on ebay which i might order next week. i dont have a Sine generator for the inductance measurement yet, but i might buy a meter anyway we see.I wont be here during the build as im doing it else where.but will let you know tommorow about this time or a bit earlier.
It all balances on the wire arriving tommorow.

Peter

z_p_e

All Sounds good Peter. The magnets you have are fairly close, so should be ok.

Looking forward to seeing your progress.

For any builders out there that want an L or LC meter, here are a couple I have on my PC. I haven't built these, but they seem ok, especially the LC meter. It's about $99 for the kit.

The one that is just an L meter, is designed to measure only up to 5mH, but I think with some mods, it could go higher. Very simple circuit.


Regards,
Darren