Simple to make Hilden-Brand style motor

[i_ron]

In your case you could remove some middle ones and leave airgap, just to see how it effects the system and if it affects it in the good way replace as many as possible with steel spacers.

Thank you!  Not as neat as some builders on this list, just a fling together to test the theory.

Gyula is always on to me also to use less neo's, lol but I wanted a 1 inch gap between top and bottom bars...once I get it working I will do some tests. Rule of thumb I was going by is the bar should be 1.5 or more times bigger in cross section so 1 inch round magnets are only .78 sq inches versus 1 sq inch for the bar.

Ron

[i_ron]

Congratulations for your engine! What do you Used in the electronic, mosfet or IGBT?

Are you able to calculate the performance of your engine, torque and RPM?

Thank you too!  I am using mosfets.

No calculations at this time, as this was just to show that it runs and it still needs some serious work.

Ron

My apologies for spelling kekko with only one K on Youtube,  nevertheless, glad to have your presence here on this list.

[i_ron]

Hi Ron,

I have to think this over tomorrow but is it really needed to keep any 2 coils ON for at least half a revolution?   I have to finish now,  and I understand you have the latching type Hall sensor. The parallel diode may work differently with another Hall sensor (not a latching one).

Gyula

Gyula,

I think it is the nature of the beast... it won't switch to the open end until most of the bar is in alignment.  Also when one has maximum gap it won't pull in on a lower voltage.

So in theory one could switch at a higher voltage and reduce said voltage as the bar comes into alignment.

This is common practice in solenoid drivers such as the DRV101 or one I would like to try, the FDMS2380. This not only goes into PWM after an initial
full volt on period but handles recycling of the multi back spike completely, wow!

http://www.datasheetdir.com/FDMS2380+Power-Drivers

But it needs a controller to run it, lol

Arduino challenged,  Ron

[gyulasun]

...
it won't switch to the open end until most of the bar is in alignment.  Also when one has maximum gap it won't pull in on a lower voltage.

So in theory one could switch at a higher voltage and reduce said voltage as the bar comes into alignment.

This is common practice in solenoid drivers such as the DRV101 or one I would like to try, the FDMS2380. This not only goes into PWM after an initial
full volt on period but handles recycling of the multi back spike completely, wow!

http://www.datasheetdir.com/FDMS2380+Power-Drivers

But it needs a controller to run it, lol

Arduino challenged,  Ron

Hi Ron,

I see, thanks for explanation.  Would like to suggest using 2-2 coil pairs that could be positioned on BOTH sides of the bars, see my edited picture (coils at the other side is not shown of course), orange circles symbolize air core or ferromagnetic cored coils. One coil pair is on the left (one member of it is behind the bar, not shown), the other coil par is on the right (one member of it is not shown either). The coil pairs could be connected in parallel by themselves (like in Garry Stanley motor) any any one of such coil pairs are connected in series (or in parallel) with the appropiate main coils you presently use. When you have to fire one main coil as needed, the appropiate coil pair on that side (between which a bar moves in) could be also energized, this way help attracting the bar towards the closing position. The same happens in the next phase to the other coil pair when the other main coil is fired as needed.
So any two of these side coils could help to draw inwards the bars when needed, by using them surely helps reduce the input voltage amplitude, hence input power requirement.
And perhaps even further input reduction could be had beyond that by the solenoid drivers you have referred to.

Gyula

[i_ron]

Hi Ron,

I see, thanks for explanation.  Would like to suggest using 2-2 coil pairs that could be positioned on BOTH sides of the bars, see my edited picture (coils at the other side is not shown of course), orange circles symbolize air core or ferromagnetic cored coils. One coil pair is on the left (one member of it is behind the bar, not shown), the other coil par is on the right (one member of it is not shown either). The coil pairs could be connected in parallel by themselves (like in Garry Stanley motor) any any one of such coil pairs are connected in series (or in parallel) with the appropiate main coils you presently use. When you have to fire one main coil as needed, the appropiate coil pair on that side (between which a bar moves in) could be also energized, this way help attracting the bar towards the closing position. The same happens in the next phase to the other coil pair when the other main coil is fired as needed.
So any two of these side coils could help to draw inwards the bars when needed, by using them surely helps reduce the input voltage amplitude, hence input power requirement.
And perhaps even further input reduction could be had beyond that by the solenoid drivers you have referred to.

Gyula

Interesting concept Gyula, but not sure that the level of complexity and resulting gain would warrant the effort?  I will keep this in mind but there are several things I wish to try first, OK?

rgds, Ron