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Overunity Machines Forum



The Brnbrade Coil/Overunity?

Started by Bruce_TPU, July 01, 2007, 12:14:40 AM

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0 Members and 7 Guests are viewing this topic.

otto

Hello all,

to use oxidised copper (CuO)??

How to oxidise copper??? There was a link how to do this. With a high current...dont remember the exact link.

Oxidised copper showes some anomalies....

Otto

BEP

You can lightly clean copper foil with a non-metallic scrubbing pad
Spray water on it
Microwave until  it is covered in black oxide
the black oxide pops off with flexing
under that you will see cupric oxide (known as red plague on circuit boards)

The black oxide may be in use here
The red oxide makes the sheet photo-electric

wattsup

@BEP

Great info on coatings. Thanks.

First off, let's use Primary as thick and Secondary as thin from now on cause it is getting confusing using Cooks' original terms.

I am wondering about something. Is it possible that Brnbrades' Secondary is non-insulated wire to start with. This means he puts varnish on the core, then puts his alu foil then he would have to insulate the alu foil with varnish before he can wind his Secondary, then he would varnish again to then put the second alu foil, then he would wind the Primary.

I looked carfully at the photos and although the photos a far, it seems the Secondary wire may not coated.  It does not have the red or glossy tint to it.

I modified my first build and there are no better results after hours of trying so many configs, I am wondering if the two layers of electrical tape (wound half width overlap makes two layers) may have any adverse effects or hinder any "skin effect" required to make this work. Two layers of tape per insulation, when you consider that there is 4 layers of insulation before the Primary wind, that's 8 layers of electrical tape, I think there is too much between the coils and the skin effect of having the alu foil is lost. I can't think of anything else because the device is doing something, but not enough.

So I guess I will modify my build 2 Secondary ends and do some more testing.

Oh hey, looking again carefully at his Trial #3 with sound making 250VAC, his wiring scheme is different then the other trials. If we use my ABCD photo as a guide, he is doing as follows: AS to DP, BS to CP, CS to AP, DS to BP.

BEP

I'm doing things a little different than you but the thickness of the tape increases that gap. This has a two-fold effect. One, it decreases capacitance - Two, it decreases the magnetic field strength.

I did a coil autopsy on my (secondaries? they appear to be control coils). When my coils overloaded the PS they meggered as an arcing short to the AL foil @150V. I unwrapped them while inspecting. The arcing short on both was at the exact middle of the coil. This I don't understand yet as the foil stills shows open to all other surfaces and the highest voltage input was 40DC with the highest output 63DC pulsed@7kHz. If I missed harmonics building I probably also missed a much higher peak.

There was a lot of bucking/boosting going on.
With a battery as supply I got the same square wave results on a backup coil.
This appears to be the reverse action of the Tesla magnetic rectifier with very similar connections. It also seems to function like the resonant tank spark gap transmitter. Instead of switching the E field it appears to be switching the B field.

I don't know at this point but it is interesting. When I have something that seems to go in the right direction I'll post details and ask for help on diagnosis.

You may try wax paper until heating becomes a problem or a fine silk.

I will be starting to experiment with maganese oxide this weekend - black goop inside some dry cell batteries.

Gregi

@wattsup

I also have thin wire that don't look red and glossy, although its still insulated.

Greg