Selfrunning cold electricity circuit from Dr.Stiffler

[plengo]

@hartiberlin

Hi Fausto,
how did you connect the bifilar coil to the battery, so that it charges up ?
Where did you connect the ground wire to ?

NO the coil is not connected to anything at all except the scope's probe. It is just sitting there close to the SEC AV plugs board so that I can capture some of the wave form of the signal without interfering too much with the SEC functioning.

It works very well for that and thats how I could analyze the wave of the signal and come up with the best charging signal so far.

The battery is connected right after the AV plugs, just make sure the polarity is correct otherwise you will have some diodes burned up.

Battery is still charging. I will probably run about 20 or more of this  charge and load test to see the ration Input/Output and calculate a good avarage COP value (I have done about 200 of those cycles for my Bedini SSG, sometimes I get COP > 1 and most of the time I don't).

Fausto.

[Yucca]

@Loki
With your LEDs, one chain of three didn't light because in parrallel LEDs need to be closely matched if your not running series resistors. You could try all six in series without your signal diodes, they should all light then. It's still very difficult to get a good eyeball on just how bright each test is though. One thing's for sure these SECs would make very efficient torches or bike lights!

@Plengo
Your battery COP experiment is great, I hope it's >1.

[Loki67671]

@Loki
With your LEDs, one chain of three didn't light because in parrallel LEDs need to be closely matched if your not running series resistors. You could try all six in series without your signal diodes, they should all light then. It's still very difficult to get a good eyeball on just how bright each test is though. One thing's for sure these SECs would make very efficient torches or bike lights!

@Plengo
Your battery COP experiment is great, I hope it's >1.

Nice... ..But I'm working on and interested in the heat.  Enough of the parlor tricks and sidetracking. (It is fun though)    By the way Yucca, are you building and testing this? How about you tell me the answers to some of the questions.......LOL  Replacing interior lighting in buildings that will run on a few watts and only installing half the copper is huge not a bike light although I'm sure someone will have a dollar store version out there. Probably the same ones making the LED's. I'm chasing after very warm greenhouses and no grid connections not to mention I showed a picture of one of my Neon's at a temperature of 131F, what is the temperature of your hot water where you live? I don't know if this is part of the answers I seek yet. But we're about to find out.    Actually, I'm about to attempt my first go at finding out for myself! 

I know the reasons that the LED's did what they did but the point is this, AV plugs and Dr. Stiffler's SEC's are unique and worth studying on their own. Comparative studies, well, start building and good luck with that. LOL Let me know how that works out for you. I solved the circuit before I energized it for goodness sake. Apples and Oranges my friend.  Also a waste of my time! No more! You do some!   


Best regards,

Jim

[DrStiffler]

@ the Dr.  ... Have seen some interesting results on my hack of a SEC., some very good results (at least I think they are) ... using 2 digital multimeter thermometers, type K pick-ups, I can drive the temp down on the MPSA06 (around 44-45c) and the temp up on the neon (33-34c)... at the same time the voltage goes up on the input and the current goes down.  Voltage is supply from a bench-top DC supply set at 18 volts ... ( I also use a 18volt rechargeable drill battery, just to make sure I was not getting something extra) .... The current and voltage is taken at the input.  Have not figured out away yet to measure inside without upsetting the balance.   When out of tune neon not lit up, or not at the right frequency and lit up .. LED's lit up ... the current draw goes up and the voltage goes down. I can get the Neon to go very bright but then the temp on the MPSA06 goes through the roof ( past 60c ) and then blows ... the current draw also goes up and the voltage down.

What is kind of interesting is that when I add from 1 LED to 7 LEDs there does not seem to be a difference in draw or voltage.  I am also able to drive half of a florencent light with the guts ripped out of it and using 2 plugs .. one for each side and the middle floating.  This seems to drive the temp down on the MPSA06 to 38c.

Does this sound about right to what goes on? Thanks for any thoughts.

@nickle989

***
... Have seen some interesting results on my hack of a SEC., some very good results (at least I think they are) ... using 2 digital multimeter thermometers, type K pick-ups
***
One thing is I would not trust the K probes and the digital meters. If you have a glass thermometer place a cardboard tube or plastic (not metal) around the transistor. Place the thermometer in the tube with the transistor and wrap it with a cotton cloth a couple of times,looks bad but will work. Need to confirm that this is indeed the correct temp and not error from the probes and meters.

***
I can drive the temp down on the MPSA06 (around 44-45c) and the temp up on the neon (33-34c)...
***
This is crazy and I would have to say the same old thing I always say, if this is the case 'It isn't tuned properly'. When working properly the Neon should always be at a greater temperature than the transistor. The two hottest things are the Neon and the 22uH choke.

If you are using different coils and chokes then its a new ball game and I am shooting in the dark. Far to many variables and the chokes and base coil are critical to guess on all the different variations one can use. For example the wire size used for the base tuning coil, the slug permeability, long or layer wrap, it all counts in the end.

What about the ptoto board is it one with an Al backing plate? What is the capacity from a single pad to the plate? What is the capacity of the power rail strips to the plate? Do they compare to what I have posted?

I must assume you are using some heat sink on the transistor, what type? Is it large? Could upset tuning.

***
What is kind of interesting is that when I add from 1 LED to 7 LEDs there does not seem to be a difference in draw or voltage.  I am also able to drive half of a florencent light with the guts ripped out of it and using 2 plugs .. one for each side and the middle floating.  This seems to drive the temp down on the MPSA06 to 38c.
***
Most of this sounds right. People have powered up to 175 or more LEDs and only seen small input change.

I can't do much more on this. You are sadly repeating what everyone else does when first starting out. Unless its a duplication it is not a replication, if that makes any sense.

***
MPSA06 goes through the roof ( past 60c ) and then blows
***
Been there and done that. Now purchase in 1K lots. All fun aside, why does it go into runaway? Reason is the energy (input) is not being used in the collector circuit as it should so the transistor is dissipating the energy. When in the proper tuning that transistor should only be from ambient (with a small Cu heat sink) to at most +4C above ambient.

The circuit is voltage sensitive, in other words you tune at 12 volts and go to 15 and it is out of tune. You might be able to adjust the supply voltage up and down and retune each time. If you hit a spot where you have good neon and the transistor seems to be in a good temp range then that proves the tuning is off at the extreme temps you are getting.

Well with an ambient of 17C and a measured 45-60C on the transistor it all the circuit.

Don't know if this helps or hurts, but just to may things to consider unless I saw a picture of your setup, then maybe I could spot some things.

Good Luck.......

[DrStiffler]

@ALL

How to make a Heat Sink for an MPSA06

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gHF_NtyTId0