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Overunity Machines Forum



Self Running Micro TPU, with closed loop.

Started by EMdevices, November 12, 2007, 11:49:58 PM

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4Tesla

#345
December 05, 2007, 05:48:18 AM
@abassign
That puzzled me too as it would be shorting out the coil.  I think it is an error.

@all
I think if it was rewired as shown in the altered schematic I made it would work.

4Tesla

acerzw

#346
December 05, 2007, 08:06:46 AM
<removed>
In a Holographic Multiverse everything is smoke and mirrors!
What is Reality? Improve yours: http://www.overunity.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3454.0;attach=13459
A shorter version for the very open-minded: http://www.overunity.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3454.0;attach=13866

Bruce_TPU

#347
December 05, 2007, 08:24:18 AM
Quote from: plengo on December 04, 2007, 11:20:37 PM
@ 4Tesla
you're right. I checked the lab. I removed the lab. I caged it inside an aluminum container connected to ground and the light goes on. I will make another video showing that (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2lNNOZ-y78). I simply can not kill the battery. I dont have another explanation why the LED goes lit. I connected now 3 9v NIMH bats to see how I can scale this thing and it worked. Now I have more current .04 milliamp and 1.7+volts. It is amazing. I left it running again today the whole day and it simply does not change it just lights there without even blinking or going down in voltage or current. Simply runs.

I am simplifying the circuit to the point that I think the batteries ARE the most important part of the whole circuit. Somehow the coils and the battery are charging the battery and draining the energy on the LEDs therefore balancing everything.

I also tried inside a cage and still works the same. On my video I show that inside the cage the osciloscope will not see any RF but outside the cage it does shows signs of RF on the circuit although very irrelevant. Magnets do not affect anything. Shorting the Batteries as the thing runs will have no long term effect. It restores itself up to the same point that it was.

Replacing the Battery with any kind of Capacitors will not work.

Fausto.

ps: I am sorry for bringing this experiment of mine here. It is not my intention to deviate from the Micro TPU it is that the output goal seams to be pretty similiar: running a LED for as long as one wants. I think my approach is proving itself to be the most amazing and durable. Can someone try that too?

Photo explanation:
B1 = is the 9v NIMH dead battery. You can buy one, short it for days and connect to the circuit.
The resistor can be any value as long as allows the amp meter to be inside its range.
My amp meter is a 1 milliamp range.
D2 and D3 are there just to see if voltage is still enough to go through the LEDs after having some load going through D1 and Resistor.
L1 is a hand made coil with 1500 turns bifilar with 23 and 18 awg (from an Bedini SSG project).
L2 is a relay that I am using only the trigger coil. It affects the final voltage somehow.
The "Not connected" part of the circuit was where I had the second part of another experiment where I would cause the B1 battery to be charged.

That's it. The LED will go lit for a long time (4 days now).


@ Plengo

Thank you for sharing this with us here.  It is not a problem.

Please redraw your circuit and repost.  Also, a photograph of your circuit, please.  There is agreement that the other one is in error.  Please confirm this.

4 days run time with one LED, not blinking, with a "dead" battery seems impressive.  Let it continue to run!

Holiday Cheers,
Bruce
1.  Lindsay's Stack TPU Posted Picture.  All Wound CCW  Collectors three turns and HORIZONTAL, not vertical.

2.  3 Tube amps, sending three frequency's, each having two signals, one in-phase & one inverted 180 deg, opposing signals in each collector (via control wires). 

3.  Collector is Magnetic Loop Antenna, made of lamp chord wire, wound flat.  Inside loop is antenna, outside loop is for output.  First collector is tuned via tuned tank, to the fundamental.  Second collector is tuned tank to the second harmonic (component).  Third collector is tuned tank to the third harmonic (component)  Frequency is determined by taking the circumference frequency, reducing the size by .88 inches.  Divide this frequency by 1000, and you have your second harmonic.  Divide this by 2 and you have your fundamental.  Multiply that by 3 and you have your third harmonic component.  Tune the collectors to each of these.  Input the fundamental and two modulation frequencies, made to create replicas of the fundamental, second harmonic and the third.

4.  The three frequency's circulating in the collectors, both in phase and inverted, begin to create hundreds of thousands of created frequency's, via intermodulation, that subtract to the fundamental and its harmonics.  This is called "Catalyst".

5.  The three AC PURE sine signals, travel through the amplification stage, Nonlinear, producing the second harmonic and third.  (distortion)

6.  These signals then travel the control coils, are rectified by a full wave bridge, and then sent into the output outer loop as all positive pulsed DC.  This then becomes the output and "collects" the current.

P.S.  The Kicks are harmonic distortion with passive intermodulation.  Can't see it without a spectrum analyzer, normally unless trained to see it on a scope.

plengo

#348
December 05, 2007, 10:45:00 AM
@all,
thank you guys for checking this stuff out. I did post the wrong pic at the beginning. I made a second circuit and was copying from the old "lab". Too many wires  ;D.

The new pic should clarify the schematic and you all were right I was shorting things. The idea of one of the LED with a meter is to see If it is a real current under a load (resistor) and still keep the voltage necessary to activate the other LEDs. In one of my earlier designs I had about 10 LED in parallel and they were all lit. This design is the minimum I've got and still runs. It is still running non-stop since I started posting.

@acerzw
replacing the bats for capacitor, as I stated before, will not work.  The magnet wire is enameld.

The reason I still left the coils was when measuring with the osciloscope I notice that the voltage cross the LEDs would be higher with them there. I know, nothing here makes sence. It is not only the batteries it is the whole thing.

Fausto.

ps: in this picture I by mistake disconnected the L2.

EMdevices

#349
December 05, 2007, 11:11:35 AM
Deep down inside I always knew the battery was a source of power, but this just totaly nails itÃ,  ....Ã,   LOLÃ,   :D

I'm just having fun plengo.....Ã,   good work man, keep it up !!

I have these alkaline 9V batteries and they just don't want to die.  I short them out and then they spring back up to 6.5 volts or so.   It's all about chemistry here.

EM
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