Bedini replication in Germany

[Ren]

Thanks Albert. I think your machines are an excellent example of neat tidy work! Id be proud of em! Especially your coils, there is definately some artistic flair in their construction. None of my first replications looked anything like I have now. Your coils remind me of Erwins work, which you might find interesting, theres heaps of good info here. http://www.fight-4-truth.com/Schematics.html

In regards to the window motor, it did indeed charge from the ssg circuit. An interesting thing I noticed was a test I did with a 9 volt battery that was already flat. It read 7.89 volts when I started. Drawing 120ma it ran the window motor for nearly five hours. There was one sweet spot I found on the pot that slowed the voltage dropping of the battery significantly, but it wasnt the spot of lowest amp draw? The battery ran all the way down to 2.5 volts when it stopped. After a two minute rest it ran again for 20 min.Remember that all these machines are charging with very little current Albert, I have come to the belief that only a bare minimum of current is needed under the right conditions despite what conventional science teaches.   

Hans is on the money with sikaflex, I have also had good results with aryldite, which is a two parts epoxy paste. I have glued neo magnets onto this speed tester http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0I2HtTu2Cs and wound it out on 24 volts to speeds I can only guess, but I was scared . I stopped the video prematurely, it was only about 2/3 of its full pace. Glue seems to work well, although the magnets are sandwiched as well. If your magnets fit neatly top to bottom you might also consider gluing sandwich style as this means the only edge that doesnt have glue is the face interacting with the coil.

Bourne you are right about the cap dump. It doesnt switch batteries, it only dumps into the charge bank. As far as I know none of the bedini machines swap between run and charge that quickly, although I could be wrong. The slight exception is his designs that backpop the primary, which in a way is charging both banks.

Keep up the good work guys!

[TheOne]

Hi The One, I am sure you are wrong. that machine is the capacitor dump machine. It is constantly charging the large capacitor which is then dumped into the charging battery every 1.5 seconds. Separate from its supply batteries. Using the commutator as shown in J Bedini's 1984 book (reprinted in Tom Beardens "free energy generation")

Ah thanks for the clarification

[albert]

Thanks to all of you for the good hints on the glue! I will see if I can find the sikaFlex glue over here.
Epoxy glue is also a strong possibility.

As you write, I will be more than respectful when running the smaller rotor. The energy stored in such a device is enormous. but it won't spin at 10.000 rpm. Btw, the initial reason for building the bike wheel variant was to keep rotor rpm low. The smaller rotors are scary just with one coil running them.But on the multi coil setups you need speed.
Thanks, too for the things you say about battery swapping. I think there is something to the idea of the "power magnifier". After all, Bedini runs the big machine on 10 A @ 24 volts= 240 Watts and he can charge a battery bank to drain 2.4 kilowatts off it.
Probably he should demonstrate this with a tiny li-Po battery on the primary, or a NiCad battery -anything that will give him 10 amps at 24 volts for some minutes. If he can really replace the energy taken off with the lamps and the inverter, then it`s a clear proof.
You are absolutely right about the coils I made. i took a VERY close look at Erwin Badertscher's pages on the Bedini machine. Lots of really good info here, every layman can build the machine following his instructions.
The magnets are a material that has been sintered- baked with a great deal of heat-as far as I understand it. So there will be tolerances.

Another strange thing happens when you use different voltages on the input and output batteries. I ran the machine the other day with a Nicad battery at 36 volts on the input, charging a big 12 Volt "NATO cube" (100 amp hours ) on the secondary. Input current was 200 mA
and OUTPUT was 400 mA!
Measured with the same type of analog meter on both sides.
what the heck...? this is not a transformer or is it???

we are going to test the in-and output with a special meter soon. It basically uses a wire shunt that will heat. This rise in temperature is then transduced into a voltage. This way you can measure even the strange pulses in and out of the motor. The meter integrates the pulses and only the really effective power shows.
One thing one tends to forget is that the input battery also gets a heavy pulse DISCHARGE. Unless you hook some big caps to it to smooth the input current it's just as much of a pulse as the output. The h-wave minus the spike. Perhaps that might be the reason why a battery charged with the radiant energy will not work as a driving battery. I will check this out.
The other idea, although it comes from a misunderstanding, might also be interesting. Set up a system that swaps the batteries every 30 seconds or so. What will happen? I think I'll come up with some manual switches after Christmas....

Thank you again - it's great talking to you ! The internet is wonderful.

albert

[albert]

Hello Mr von Lieven,

thanks for the hint to sikaFlex. I found a german page for them but I would need the exact number and type of the glue you use. they have everything from silicon like stuff to polyurethane glue.

thanks!

Albert

[Ren]

In regards to your discoveries on larger output than input Albert I can only think this. Bedini has said many times that the monopole motor is like a magnetic pump for aether (insert term you prefer) and that the radiant energy behaves like a gas under pressure. Perhaps with the higher voltage potential you are using on the front end the pressure increases on the back end as you are trying to stuff it into a lower potential. What sort of success have you had in charging Albert? Have you charged multiple batteries off one the same size. Or large (amp hours) batteries, what sort of voltage do you get them too? Also, I wasnt sure if you already posted, but how many wires on your coils, it looks like trifilar from the winding pic?

I had a similar idea about the cap on the front end of the ssg Albert. I have read that you can use the back end batteries on the front end of the ssg, except for it to work well you must run them through an inverter and then step down transformer. I have also read that the capacitor is the solution for converting negative energy to positive energy, thus the ability to switch batteries from front to back on the cap pulser setup.  IF the capacitor is a converter of sorts (and this makes sense regarding the inverter + stepdown transformer) then can you simply place a large cap on the front end of the ssg to allow battery swapping? After all most inverters have a large capacitor inside them. I wonder if it is that easy.....I need to hit the lotto so I can go crazy at the electronic store...

On a side note, I am getting great results akin to my larger ceramic ssg, with a tiny four coil (all linked in series) air core bedini/cole circuit. it has 300ma input and is charging just as well (as far as I can tell with these batteries) as the trifilar monopole. Another interesting thing I noted was the ability to send voltage back to the primary via bridge rectifier. I basically did this circuit setup (different transistors and resistor values) and used a microswitch to manually swap between  powering the coils and sending feedback to the bridge. After ten minutes of sitting there clicking away at a steady rate battery voltage had not only remained level, but increased by .04 or so. A dvm says there is about 14v at the bridge while running the coils, so perhaps there is some form of backpopping going on, only longer tests will tell, and  an automated timing wheel or relay of sorts to look after the switching. I am still trying to come to a better understanding of the scr, as this is all that is stopping me from the next step up. I have struggled to gain any significant information on it. I basically need a part number and a clear schematic to test it out with fwbr+cap+scr as stated on Erwins diagram. So many things to learn!

Ive rambled on a bit sorry guys, bored here and need to voice my ideas. Albert, did you check out the link Hans left in his post to sika? Perhaps it has a part number on it. I reckon aryldite will do the trick, there hasnt been anything Ive used it for that comes apart. Perhaps it is a good idea to roughen up the rotors inserts a little bit too to aid in the bonding process.