Thane Heins Perepiteia.

[LarryC]

took me some time, but i now have my variac(decided to go with the light switch dimmer) and the magnets epoxied in, mounting the bench grinder and coils on friday. Still need a tach tho, any suggestions on where to get it? :| would love a panel tach but don't really have the cash.

Check this out, bike tach's are cheap:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Tachometer-made-from-a-bicycle-speedometer-cycloc/

[tagor]

and something more 

If the set up in your last video is exactly the same as in the previous one (Plus of course the HC winding on the "italian" coil )         where you got 8.5 watts on the HC coil at the 3000 rpm on 217 watts

do i think right that with less than that 217 watts at that same around 3000 rpm    you can now     not only      get the 8.5 watts from the France coil (as per the previous video)    but +  19.6 watts more from the Italien' one

that is to say that in this set up each time you add a new europeean country HV-HC coil you will get more output power without adding  more than  that original 217 watts ??

and you hesitate to send me the europeans coils     perhaps i have the secret to make them more powerfull  who knows 

anyway bravo and go on

Laurent

hello Laurent

where do you come from ?

I am in Paris and you ?

A++

[wattsup]

Can you make a HC with 10-12 strands of 23-25awg insulated magwire twisted 4-6 turns per inch then wound onto the core.

The twisting will reduce the outer field of the HC and make more like an energy funnel with less drag field and the parallel strands will provide more amps and less volts.

One of the first questions I would have after designing any such HC/HV coil is how much juice could I really pull from it regardless of the input consumption. But that question will never be answered with a punny grinder motor trying to turn a large diameter wheel with drag developed on the end of the wheel, with or without the HV influences, since the HV can only influence or increase the rotation from a zero state (not 0 rpm) but only until the HC starts drawing any real power.

So it is very important to know if that HC coil can even produce enough to light a few 100 watt bulbs? That's the first and foremost question because it could possibly be that the inherent HC design is such that it can only produce 20 watts maximum regardless of how much horsepower and rpms are used to start with and then all the other testing is just wasting time and going in the wrong direction. I would put a 4-5 HP 220-460vac motor on the mag wheel and then load the HC to its maximum to drive the hell out of it and take the measurements to see what these coils can really dish out before doing anything further. You have to confirm the HC maximum potential and learn at what drag level is required to produce the juice. Once this is known, I am sure it will change your complete outlook on the device and how to go about working it. Or maybe even how to go about designing a better more responsive HC coil.

If the twisted magwire coil HC works better, maybe this will cancel the need for the HV or permit the HV to initiate and "maintain" a more aggressive rpm increase since it would not have to compete as much with the HC field.

Also, what are you actually doing when you short the HV. Yes, you are actually putting a FULL LOAD on the HV coil. So instead of shorting the HV coil, why not put its output through two or three 110vac light bulbs, since the effect of the mag field around the HV coil will be the same, but now you can use that energy instead of just shorting it to produce heat, and light some bulbs or add it to the output of the HC coil or use some of it to help run the drive motor. Hmmmmmmmm. You could even put the HC and HV coils to be switched into series and take that single output on a suitable load to see the result.

If you can get your hands on a 3-5 hp, 3 phase, 460 volts 3600rpm drive motor, you can then use this to find the maximum output of the HC as mentioned above and then you can use it with the Rotoverter (RV) method and drive it with only 110 volts, by putting one of the phases in series with a switched capacitor bank.

Here's a photo of one set-up I made, using this method with a 5hp motor driven using only about 40-50 watts at idle or zero state. http://www.purco.qc.ca/ftp/Wattsups'%20stuff/rotoverter/wattsup-roto1.JPG

About testing the full potential of the HC coil before doing anything else, before I did these RV tests with an alternator, I took the alternator to an alternator shop and they put it on their testing rig that has a 25hp motor. The alternator produced over 1000 watts of power so I knew I was OK to go and not only rely on the specs. I had to see it for myself. Unfortunately, the RV method could not swing it because I found out that the hard way that such an alternator produces soooooooooooooo much drag, no wonder you would need a car to run it and in a real car setting it is never producing 1000 watts. If you wanted 1000 watts in your car with this sucker, be prepared to spend much more for gas.lol

The RV capacitor bank permits you to switch the caps to start, then switch the caps to find the idling speed, then switch again under load to find the best driving potential. Just google or utube rotoverter. It is not the do all and end all but it is an alternative to consider.

Another alternative is the use of gears to switch the rpm levels and this permits the drive motor to run at a lower but stronger rpm level. This is one link on this forum where you can see the relationship of big wheel/small wheel/flywheel. Look at the 3-6-9 wheels. I am building a garage this summer and will finally make the 3-6-9 when I have this new space available. More fun.
http://www.overunity.com/index.php/topic,3260.msg48499.html#msg48499

Playing with such toys is a game of advantages. More often then not, when one aspect is an advantage, another aspect becomes a greater disadvantage and finding how to pull the minimum and push the maximum is not so easy while it is often very easy to miss the nuances. The grinder drive motor sucks in efficiency and in my opinion should continue be used only as a grinder. It is way to small to have a fighting chance at this. The rotor mag wheel HC/HV may have some advantages that would have to be better understood "once their full potentials" are known. Any time you make a new HC you must test it to full capacity with a bigger drive motor. If their full potentials are meager, then at least you will know this from the start .................or from now on. This then may imply that adding more hc's is required or change the HC design.

For the mag wheel being a flywheel, this is not the case. A flywheel is driven from the center shaft or small pulley and the output energy is transferred at maximum midway or less through the radius (or vise versa), leaving the remaining outer radius that holds the greater mass to act as a flywheel being capable of producing and storing some inertia. Putting the magnet at the end of the wheel means it is not a flywheel but simply a large gear trying to turn a small gear that is the HC in this case. Large wheel turning a very small wheel is not good because any drag will be multiplied backwards onto the motor. Meaning a drag of 1 on the mag wheel shaft will produce a drag of 1 on the drive motor, but a drag of 1 on the mag wheel rim will produce a drag of maybe 5 or more on the drive motor. To keep the same magnet distance from the center, the wheel would have to be at least double what it is now and 70% of its mass on the outer rim to have any potential as a true flywheel. Also, regardless of how it is made, the mag wheel should be secured on its own independent shaft and supported from both sides on good quality zero friction bearings so it does not stress the motor shaft at all, otherwise this again will cost in efficiency. The drive motor should only turn the wheel shaft and not have to maintain the wheels linearity while it is spinning against the mutually stressed and vibrating influences between the magnets/HC/HV which again will cost in efficiency.

It's all a learning process.
Sorry again for long post.

PS: You may want to find out if the UofO can provide tax receipts against equipment donations to the University and if yes, how to go about it. This would make it easier for you to find more equipment from companies. Also, note that the Canadian Government has a R&D program where they will pay 50% of a salary (and I think equipment) used for R&D.

[i_ron]

took me some time, but i now have my variac(decided to go with the light switch dimmer) and the magnets epoxied in, mounting the bench grinder and coils on friday. Still need a tach tho, any suggestions on where to get it? :| would love a panel tach but don't really have the cash.

is twenty dollars too much?

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.18239

Ron

[broli]

is twenty dollars too much?

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.18239

Ron

China rules! Too bad their products break fast. So be nice to Chinese plastic. Btw it's a tad cheaper here...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Digital-Laser-Photo-Non-Contact-Tachometer-RPM-Test-US_W0QQitemZ270353428968QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item270353428968&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A15|39%3A1|240%3A1318#ShippingPayment

Unless thane decides to break the 99999 RPM limit this is a very good deal I daresay.