12V 60A car battery , maybe dead?

[Groundloop]

Hi GL

I double checked and the transistor is definitely connected correctly. Looking at the bottom of the transistor with the pins above the mid line then pin 1 is on the left and that is the Base and pin 2, the emitter is on the right. The case of the Transistor is the collector. The emitter is the one connected to the common ground. I have quite an expensive clamp ammeter so I do not really have a reason to doubt its accuracy. Perhaps I am getting over reads due to the close proximity of the other wires although I made sure to get the correct wire in the clamp.

The previous wave forms posted I adjusted the vertical axis to be able to see the waveform properly. I am attaching the waveforms with the line on 0%. The waveform over the base/emitter is the first pic and the collector/emitter is the second pic. I am going to replace the 1N4007 diode this evening to see if there is anything wrong.

I checked the coils for a short again last night and did not find any. Both using a continuity tester on my multi meter as well as using the component testing mode of the oscope. It has a facility to indicate a short and I found nothing. I did get an AC current measurement on the base of 0.07 Amps with the pot open about two thirds (i.e. lower resistance)

Marnus,

Please do a test, replace the pot-meter with a fixed resistor of 10K. Swap the L1 coil wires around.
O-scope the base on the transistor with o-scope ground to the emitter. Put your analog DC ampere
meter in series with the base and close to the transistor.

Alex.

[lzbin80]

Check out my new YouTube video

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=abJuStUv4K8

It shows what happens when you condition a "DEAD" car battery with a tiny Bedini coil.

The battery is a 12volt 60Ah Varta Blue.

Most points are explained in the video, (I think)

I hope you enjoy it

Bourne

The voltage jumping around may indicate that the battery cannot take in charges that fast. it may also indicate venting and fully charged already.

By keep refilling electrolyte/distilled water for the venting, you can successfully recover and venting a battery at the same time.

John Bedini charge and discharge his battery during his recovery process.

[Mars67]

Hi Alex

I set up the circuit exactly like you requested (50 Ohm and 10K fixed resistor, 200nF Cap). If I swop the wires of L1 around the circuit does not oscillate at all. If I swap back the L1 wires I get the following measurements on the oscope. Base/Emitter voltage with the oscope zeroed. The total amplitude = 2 Volts (1 Volts positive?) and the frequency is 8.3KHz.

The Collector/Emitter figures are 22V and 8.3KHz.

I got an analogue ammeter that reads up to a maximum of 1 Amp for a finer scale and the current on the base indicates .04Amps.

Here are the waveforms. Base first and then Collector

[Groundloop]

Hi Alex

I set up the circuit exactly like you requested (50 Ohm and 10K fixed resistor, 200nF Cap). If I swop the wires of L1 around the circuit does not oscillate at all. If I swap back the L1 wires I get the following measurements on the oscope. Base/Emitter voltage with the oscope zeroed. The total amplitude = 2 Volts (1 Volts positive?) and the frequency is 8.3KHz.

The Collector/Emitter figures are 22V and 8.3KHz.

I got an analogue ammeter that reads up to a maximum of 1 Amp for a finer scale and the current on the base indicates .04Amps.

Here are the waveforms. Base first and then Collector

Marnus,

Thank you for taking time to do the test. OK, now everything looks as it should be.
So the main reason for the pot-meter warm up was the large DC base current.
You need to use a higher value for the 50 Ohm resistor. I recommend around 100 to
200 Ohm. The resistors should be 5 Watt rated. The wire wound pot-meter should
be approx. 1K and at least 5 Watt for the coils you made.

The strange pause in your pulses (when run normally) is to the fact that the
circuit is using more current than your power supply can provide. So you need
a power supply that can deliver at least 2 - 3 Ampere at 9 Volt. A large electrolytic
capacitor (2200uF 35V) close to your circuit input between plus and minus may also help.

It may also help to use a faster diode than the 1N4007. If you have more of the BYV29
diode, use that instead.

Alex.

[Mars67]

That is great news thanks Alex. Thank you very much for your help. I will change the circuit as advised and post the results back here.