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the incredibly simple, cheap, sturdy friction heater.

Started by nitinnun, October 20, 2008, 03:10:56 AM

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nitinnun



and i have only begun to explore the possible ways, to build this friction heater.

the inner pan can be attached to the fan in MANY ways.
and not all of them have to be geologically perfect, to work great.

this is not some math problem, that has only 1 answer.



if the pan is large enough, i could secure it to both the fan head and blades.

i have an older model of that box fan, that doesn't work.
i did on autopsy on it, to get an idea of what i am working with.

that plastic fan head is VERY solid. even with weight and heat, it would take a long time for that fan head to go.
if i "reinforce" it well, it could last longer yet.

and if the fan did go, a new box fan is only $16.



the motor oil is needed.
it is thicker, so it creates more friction. the friction is what causes the heat.

the motor oil is made of carbon. it conducts the heat into the metals, then into the air. so it can warm the air.
the more surface area rubbing against motor oil, the more friction.



the higher the motor oil, the more it is supporting the inner pan too.
so that the fan head isn't taking all the weight.

the motor oil would also absorb some of "throw off" force. to keep the inner pan from wobbling too much.

the motor oil might even convert the vibrating sound energy, into a form which is less noisy.
the vibrating sound might even ADD to the electron disruptance. indirectly causing even more heat.



we DO NOT want metal grinding on metal.
that would be loud, inefficient, and would cause the inner pan to bounce around like mad.



water wouldn't have enough liscosity. it wouldn't cause enough friction.

the water is also too efficient at absorbing heat.
while the motor oil would conduct the heat to the metal around it.

the water is a poorer lubricant than motor oil too.

nitinnun


oh. and i could add heat sinks to the outer pan. to increase the rate that heat is diffused into the air in the house.

this would cause the outer pan to hold less heat than the inner pan.
so the outer pan would have heat diffuse into it, and away from the inner pan.

so the inner pan would stay cooler, reducing the warpage rate on the plastic fan head.


if i did it just right, i could even weld steel plates to the inside of the inner pan.
to act as heat sinks for the air inside the inner pan.

if i arranged the inner pan plates right, one row of them could force air into the inner pan, and the other row could force air out of the inner pan.
like this:

  ^  v
  I   I
  I   I
  I   I
   U

nitinnun

the inside of the lasko's plastic fan head, could have covered with a thick layer of heat resistant epoxy.
to strengthen its shape against warpage.


epoxy is extremely tough. and would have no trouble bonding to the plastic.

nitinnun

instead of steel pots, i'm going to use thin steel sheeting.


the steel sheeting isn't as humorously simple as steel cooking pots.
but it is lighter, cheaper, easier to make into the desired shape and size, and much more likely to give me a 100% + efficiency.

i'm going to solder it together, with a very strong soldering iron.
(it was designed to never run for more than a few minutes at a time. or else the heat damage will destroy it.)


the bottom pot will be a steel cylinder, soldered to a flat steel square.
i might solder "heatsinks" onto the outside of the bottom pot. so that the heat goes into the air faster.



the inner pot won't even be a pot.
it will be several steel cylinders. one larger than the one inside it.

multiple cylinders will increase the surface area, for motor oil to rub on.

and hopefully prevent wobbling. because of the extra inertia, that is not wanting to change its axis of movement.


i might leave an unlevel slit on the seam of each inner cylinder.
so that each cylinder "catches" motor oil, as it spins.
exactly like a cheese shredder catches cheese.

the captured motor oil will create friction as it bounces against the surface area inside the cylinders, slides downwards against the surface area, and as one motor oil molecule collides with another motor oil molecule.

the weight of the captured motor oil inside the cylinders, might reduce cylinder wobbling.
or maybe the violently sloshing around motor oil will increase cylinder wobbling.
we will have to see.


at the center of the multi-cylinders, there might be 2 steel sheeting tubes.
one inside the other.
one steel sheeting tube attached to the cylinders, and the other attached to the outer pot.

these would prevent what little wobbling gets past the other features.

Creativity

Quote from: nitinnun on October 20, 2008, 06:24:51 PM
but i am not greedy. so i will settle for a very efficient electricity to heat conversion rate.

ok i don't get it :) did u knew that for example electric water heater is about 93% efficient in turning electricity into heat?IHMO producing of heat from electricity is the smallest problem we need to solve .Other way around is much more difficult :|

i must admit i have a flawn understanding of how would a friction heater be more effective than a plain resistive wire  ::)
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