Joule Thief

[Mk1]

@Electricme

Ok thank one the picture its hard to see, i thought you found something new.

Make sure you make the resistor test with the pickup coil on.

Also i made a test on toroid with a 1 turn rectified in the multimeter , when i made a 4 turns bifilar (it took about 1/8 off the toroid) by moving the 1 turn  from one location to the other , and the got 2 volt at the end where the coil are but only .7 volt at opposing side.

Keep the good work.

Ps  I am jealous of your toroid

Mark

[electricme]

@ all
Big Torid update.             SUCCESS SUCCESS SUCCESS         

Tonight I wound a seperate secondary coil, on my BIG Torid
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Construction details

bifilar 32 turns.

Lets call the start wires (a) and (b)
Lets call the end wires  (c) and (d)

To double the output "energy"
I connected (c) to (a)
(IF IT DOSENT WORK 4 u SWAP (D) TO (A)


The output issues forth from the wires from (b) and (d)

I soldered a 1n4004 diode to the end of (c)
I soldered a 1n4004 diode to the end of (d)

I soldered a Hi Bright LED after the diodes, between + and -
I soldered a Hi Bright LED before the diodes (on the AC or Hi Hz pulsed DC)
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The test
I set Resistance Wheel to 2.2K ohms
Turning on the sw1
LED on JT powering torid lights up brightly

LED before the DIODES very dimly lights, LED AFTER DIODES NOT LIT

Turn RW to 1.5K ohms
LED before DIODES lights brighter, LED after Doides light

Turn RW to 1K ohms
LED before Diodes lights brightly, LED after Diodes lights same as previous LED, both appear to be the same

Turn RW to 820 ohms
Both LEDS gain in brightness

Turn RW to 560 ohms
Both LEDs get more brighter

Turn RW to 330 ohms
Both LEDs get even more brighter

I was not game to go to a lower resistance in case I destroyed these LEDs.

I will make a Tiny Weiny Video and post it to show you all what happened.

jim




   

[electricme]

@All
What happened in my above post?

I have connected a Resistance Wheel to the base (b) of the 2n2222 transister.
I am able to get the different levels of brightness out of the LEDS by adjusting the RW to any resistor I want to select.

Tomorrow I will wind on this same torid, another identical coil, then I will add to it the diodes and LEDS and carry out the same test that I did tonight. If this works OK, then I will add another coil, and if it works, I will add on another coil, etc etc.

Eventually, I will see if I can connect all the outputs in PARALLEL and see if I have current.

After that, mabie if I throw in a 4017 IC and solder in a few capacitors, I should be able to discharge them in "rotation".

Hmmm lets see, 1 step at a time ha ha


1 thing before I go, I wound on the torid 2 turns, when I short these 2 wire ends, the JT LED brightens, does anyone know why cause I dont.


Phewwwww I am dissey with success tonight, it has been a fun fun fun day he he

jim


 

[electricme]

@ Mk1
I made a 2 turn, on this big torid, when I shorted the 2 turn wire together, it brightened the JT LED. Could not measure via DMM any current or voltage, in AC or DC.

Made a 12 turn coil as well, could only just measure some DC, about 1.5 of a volt, but would not light up a LED.

I removed this and wound my last coil on the big torid 32 turns - bifilar, it works so I will stick to this for the time being.
Sorry, havent done any current tests, will do so tomorrow, too tired now 10.20pm


@ jeanna
I had an idea, would it be possible to use a microwave do-nut cake tin or doovar, and mix up some graphite powder (lots of this, a couple of pounds) and araldite glue and let it set in the cake tin to make a huge giagentic torid? or is this wishful thinking?
Mark is jealous of my big torid and wants one badly he he.

ps have a good holiday LJ 

jim

 

[Koen1]

@koen1
I don't care much about ou , but powering a city on a 1.5v battery that is still unproven but theorize has plausible , unlike ou. Also the fact that this runs from very low voltage and amps
makes it possible to run from (pelletier, solar panel, mini wind turbine , peizo , Hall sensors , even 2 galvanic ground wire,from air ? etc ) anything they can't sell me on pay per use. If that is all that is needed then  why ou ? It takes money to make money , i think it take electricity to make electricity . 

Ah ok, so you're not out to get OU, you merely strive for free energy, that's it? lol
Well, to be honest I don't really need OU either, as long as I can power my house appliances
from a free source, that's fine. If that means using a simple charge collector (like the solar panel,
earth battery, air static, whatever) to provide input energy for a JT-like circuit that can produce
230V AC that will run my heater, fridge, and pc, then so be it.
So I think we're on the same 'wavelength' there.

@Gadgetmall: you said

ANYONE here that ACTUALLY CONTRIBUTED TO A CIRCUIT ,TEST OR REPLICATION  Has something on their Mind . Most of it was Spoonfed . Not any more !You gotta Build it Before you know what it can do .http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iINoVWbdBpk  I Myself Want something from nothing and got it .  Others want Power which is always a Plus . I will Stick with the 1 volt systems after all 1 volt is much easer to get for free from the ground than 3 volts. I luv My LPJT on My earth battery . Perpetual Light ! .. and guess what .. I got circuit so low  so low on the input there nothing there to measure once she runs  .kick her once and she on .  Patent pending soon i hope ..  .. 

So are you saying you're now going to post only cryptic hints? Are you saying you're going to deny people who ask for it explanations from now on?
You "want something for nothing and got it", but others may not, is that what you're saying?

And what type of "earth battery" do you use? Is it a Stubblefield style coil-wound one, or is it an earth-based "dry cell"?

@electrime: you want to make a toroid from graphite? Why? Isn't really known for its great flux permeability, is it?
But I suppose if you really want to you could make a graphite-based toroid yourself. I would try "waterglass" with lots
of graphite, then mix it well and heat the putty to about 200C which should cause the "waterglass" to solidify. This is
an old method used by some electrical engineers to make a conductive "glue", although in that implementation they
would use something like silver powder instead of graphite of course. But if you don't have waterglass, you could try
with a glue. Some conductive glues consist of acrylic or some other resinous material mixed with silver powder.
So perhaps resinous "glue" would work just as well.