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Overunity Machines Forum



Joule Thief

Started by Pirate88179, November 20, 2008, 03:07:58 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 121 Guests are viewing this topic.

jeanna

Cool, xee. This means you can make a whalloper.

OK
I will get as close as I can. I have a 100pF cap which ought to be close enough to the 68pF. Then...
I need to get it straight how to put the cap into the battery to add Farads. I make them parallel, is that correct?
I will see.

I could not get the 3055 to start unless I had many more turns than 2. I will see what it takes, this time.

BTW, I think you just answered why you always see pulsed dc and not ac from your secondary, didn't you?

I will try and see. It will be quick.

thank you.
===
Hi all,

Well, today the thrift store had some light goodies.
I got 2 globes. One to diffuse the light of 4 leds. and a big one for 25- 50 leds (35cents) .

The big one should be so bright that it will take the place of an overhead room light. It is thick enough that the lights don't look like just spots yet clear enough for plenty of light to come out. But I will put it within reach so I can engage the switch. - maybe a shelf.
Also 2 cans that are perfect faraday containers for emergency joule thief lights. (Ya gotta getem when they havem because they won't be there tomorrow.)

jeanna

xee2

Quote from: jeanna on June 24, 2009, 08:31:49 PM
I need to get it straight how to put the cap into the battery to add Farads. I make them parallel, is that correct?

You do not need a battery capacitor. I suggest you do not use one just to keep things simple. But, yes you should put them in parallel to get twice the capacitance of a single capacitor.


nievesoliveras

@all

Everybody is having fun here with his or her project. I am having fun with mine.
It has been lighting an led and recharging the battery for 9 hours now.

I tried and am running now without stopping the circuit to make the change, a Super brigth led mini tap light.
The light is dim and the battery dropped to 1.08v but is still charging while lighting this led trio.

I hope it hold the whole night and I will try to charge another damaged battery and see if this one I am using, holds the charge and how long.

Jesus

jeanna

Quote from: xee2 on June 24, 2009, 08:59:41 PM
You do not need a battery capacitor. I suggest you do not use one just to keep things simple. But, yes you should put them in parallel to get twice the capacitance of a single capacitor.
Thanks,
===
OK I got it.
But it is sure ugly.
I got it to turn on with exactly the numbers of turns and all that you did. I wonder what I was doing last week. I will examine that fluoro lighting biggo to see, but later.

First here is what I am getting measuring across the secondary wires on the scope.
base resistor 1k ohm (=good starting place)
38v on secondary just the secondary wires
w/doide 16.7v or
3.8v depending on direction
yuck.

base resistor 200 ohm
spikes skinny and infrequent. There is no resolution that changes that. To me that means they are skinny spikes period.
159v, 77v,17v,5v, 151v, 25v, 38v, 25v, 20v, 161v, 167v.

Just to see what would happen, I removed the diode
There were many more spikes like 5 to 6 times as many visible on the screen. All just as skinny.
The very low numbers were (therefore) not presented by the scope.

no diode across secondary 
234v, 77v, 161v.

then I also removed the 100pF cap and it got still more spikes (but not much more) the lowest numbers dropped off again.

234v, 231v, 160v, 115v, 154v, 218v, 160v.

really ugly.

EDIT
I see I put the diode across the secondary and not in series with one of the wires. I will redo this.

More edit,

It was much worse.
It has the same seldom and spiky look and one way the volts were
1.2v, sometimes 9v, 12v
the other way thevolts were
12v, 19v

I expect this to get better looking at the expense of heights of spikes as I make more turns. I will make a mk1 style pickup out of these 20, and see what that does.
I have been wanting to do this for a week now.

thanks,

@jesus,
good going!
Are you planning to not sleep tonight? :D

jeanna


electricme

@Resonanceman,

Quote from: resonanceman on June 24, 2009, 12:19:13 PM
Jim

I think   making  a big Bedini   is a great  idea .
If your  small  one works there is no reason a bigger one  won't .
Unfortunantly   even if it  is  powerful enough .......it  won't completely  solve  the air  conditioner  problem 
The  way the llaws are writen  I am pretty sure that there is no  exceptions  for  other  power  sources .......
It  seems to me that   if  there is a fine for  using  an ollder airconditioner   you will  be at rist of being  fined even if  the  air conditioner is  powered 100% by free energy

What  would it cost to replace it ?

gary
Hello Gary,

Thanks for the good advice, but I need to know and read up on Bedini stuff, its urgent.
I got enough steel outside to make a big frame for a Bernidi, just got to get a generator for 240v AC and work out RPMs between B and G.

Yearrr, people in gov offices just wast their time dreaming up ways to make life harder for us all, and they still havent figured out how to patch potholes in the roads, lol.

Mabe I should work out how much it costs to replace them and send them the bill.

Anyway, there is nothing in law so far, to say I carnt use my aircons if I make my own power here, as the gov wants to bring it in to save the power station energy output. (its all carbon tax rubbish)

BUT, if I get a few Pelton bits, (those things in 12v DC fridges, that get hot one side and cold the other side), well, 20 of them = 240volts, if I rectify this I can drive a solid state aircon and can make it REVERSE cycle tooooo, so, lol an answer comes forth.
I think I can make it work better by shuvvin hi freq pulses at it.
Then use a tube fan to cool Hot and Cold sides on big heatsinks.

How do govs make money? east, scrap a tried and proven system, (cellphones, TV frequencies allocation, Analog to CDMA, then to Digital, etc), then everyone overnight has to fork out all over again for new stuff to replace the stuff that was still working.

Then when they run out of ideas, they will put the origional back after several years, because everyone was good and toed the line and threw out the orig stuff, so it will go around and around.

@ Jeanna,
I discovered my 2 diodes on the Hazens1 JT had fried, so after I finish my new work desk, I will get stuck into it, and replace them with 1N4007 or 1N5408 (3amp device at 1000Kv).

Gonna keep my eyes open for a big aluminium disk or perspex, shafting and pillow block bearings.

jim


People who succeed with the impossible are mocked by those who say it cannot be done.