Simple,cheap,working,legal device to reduce electric bill(power factor optim.)

[Creativity]

Hello,
in this part of the forum i would like to reserve some space for the project of designing,constructing and testing of a device used to optimise a power factor at ur home electrical grid.By doing so we would be able to pay for the electricity that we really use.
This kind of technology is in everyday use in industry and is well tested and known.I refer here to the topic:

http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6443.20

Please help to this project.After passing of tests,support it by building and installing of one at ur home.If it works for u ,then spread the idea between ur friends and family.In this way we can make a big impact on global scale and launch first cooperative project of OU forum,that will really work and benefit our society immediately and surely.

greetz,
Creativity

[saintsnick]

They sell Power Factor Correction devices on e-bay, for only a few dollars, that plug right into an electrical outlet.

Be sure to get one that corrects power factor on BOTH phases, in America 240 volt.  You will need a 240 volt outlet.

Be sure to get the correct number of units to match the wattage used by all your house loads.

[fuzzytomcat]

If you live in the United States a quick way to save money on a electricity bill is to "Balance" the amperage or electrical loads so the amperage draw is equal on each leg of electricity that passes through your watt hour electrical meter used by your utility provider.

The way the watt hour meter operates is the amperage or load is divided into two power legs or phases 120 volt line to ground circuits, each of the two being metered on a home 3-wire system (utility transformer or power lines to utility watt hour meter base). If one leg or phase of the 120 volt line to ground is at 40 amps and the other 120 volt line to ground is at 80 amps your pay for the 80 amps the higher of the two. If both 120 volt line to ground legs or phases are balanced at 60 amps per leg or phase ..... right you pay for the 60 amps ..... not the 80 amp high leg or phase on a unbalance 3-wire system.

Alway any modifications to your electrical service system should be done by qualified person or electrician.

There are many homes that used a type of wire called 12/3 NM or 14/3 NM or Romex wire with or without a ground wire (red, black, white) and may be used inside of a electrical circuit breaker panel for two 120 volt circuits this is allowed by the NEC code, and the red and black wires "MUST" be on separate phases or legs to share the neutral or white wire.

Fuzzy

[vonwolf]

If you live in the United States a quick way to save money on a electricity bill is to "Balance" the amperage or electrical loads so the amperage draw is equal on each leg of electricity that passes through your watt hour electrical meter used by your utility provider.


There are many homes that used a type of wire called 12/3 NM or 14/3 NM or Romex wire with or without a ground wire (red, black, white) and may be used inside of a electrical circuit breaker panel for two 120 volt circuits this is allowed by the NEC code, and the red and black wires "MUST" be on separate phases or legs to share the neutral or white wire.

Fuzzy

  hi fuzzytomcat;
   This sounds very interesting, I've never herd that before and I've built dozen's of single and Milty family homes. I might give that a try as my home is a money pit where power is concerned.
     The last part is a little off though. New homes usually are wired with 12/2 or 14/2 for normal 120v outlets and switches. The 12/3's are used on 3 way switches or switched outlets etc.
    Pete

[fuzzytomcat]

  hi fuzzytomcat;
   This sounds very interesting, I've never herd that before and I've built dozen's of single and Milty family homes. I might give that a try as my home is a money pit where power is concerned.
     The last part is a little off though. New homes usually are wired with 12/2 or 14/2 for normal 120v outlets and switches. The 12/3's are used on 3 way switches or switched outlets etc.
    Pete

Hey vonwolf, It's not to hard to balance the loads if you have a clamp-on amp meter that you can put on the main feeder wires in the circuit breaker panel, turn on things you use all the time lights, devices that are on a lot AV equipment ..... stuff like that, measuring the amps on both lines or phases.

Then swap or move wires and or circuit breakers around if you can to different lines or phase locations in your circuit breaker panel to balance the load equal. It takes some time to do it fairly close, but there is quite the savings. The circuits that are 240 volt or two lines or phases circuit breakers with a tie bar or device to connect the two lines or phase together are balanced loads, similar to all European home voltages are 240 volt 3-wire from the utility.

I have seen some 200 amp home services up to easily 40 amps difference all the time on 120 volt circuits, like 60 amps line one, 20 amps line two (not using the 240 volt circuits or turning off until balancing completed) like at night with everything that could be turned on normally.

The older "Zinsco" or "GTE Sylvania" panels are the worse, they have a relocatable lug thats screwed on the back of the circuit breaker, stock the 120 volt breakers come with the lug on one line or phase side "ONLY" most electricians in the 60-70s were lazy and never swapped some of them to the other line or phase ...... so they all ended up on one line or phase  but easy to change if it was done wrong.

"Disclaimer" If you are a home owner and in the United States the NEC electrical code apply's in most all states and will let you do your own electrical work in your home (permits may be needed). If unsure what your doing it is always best to seek professional help or a electrician to do the electrical work to all state and local codes. Most insurance company's during any fire investigation sees unapproved wiring or work that may not have been inspected by a state, county or city electrical inspector and is related to the fire can or will "Void" most home owners insurance policy's.    "Disclaimer"

Fuzzy