Selfrunning Free Energy devices up to 5 KW from Tariel Kapanadze

[bolt]

Yes, I have been using diagram 1 in the video but now I am working in tesla type configuration.
Not to much to show yet but later I might post another video.
MOT alone uses much more wattage for the same load
woppy  = B

As I already explained you are all MUCH better off using DC pulses using the microwave diode before spark plug. With half wave diode only 50% power passes saving half the heat on the spark plug. Dont use Full wave bridge here its not required.  These pulses are positive respect to earth but the inrush gain from the earth are Negative pulses so its a waste any case to use AC as ALL negative pulses are wasted as total loss.

With the other refinements i mentioned you will get a cool running system using hardly any power on the MOT.

[woopy]

Hi romerouk

Thank you very much for info    Type B winding.

and bravo for your good and impressive work

and now let's go working

All the best

Laurent

[baroutologos]

Thanks man for the prompt reply.

So a MOT at the HV side with a spark-gap can indeed run the bulbs but at a higher energy expense huh? (without any coils)
Did not had a clue about that. not a MOT in possession.
And the windings have canceling induction that way.

keep the good work and just secure true input readings.

wish best results

[e2matrix]

Use a small mains toroidal transformer around 50VA-150VA anything will do like 240 - 12 0 12 etc and use the primary wired in SERIES from MOT to spark gap will acts as a choke ballast and severely limit the current and over heating. Spark will then run cold.  Some toroidal are crap and insulation will break down at 2kv but generally they offer better HV operation then standard frame transformer.

Also use another MOT in series with the driver MOT on mains side will acts as mains Ballast to drop surge currents. OR use motor RUN caps in SERIES with the mains and tune these around 15uf worth to get lowest current draw. With capacitor tuning  it adjust power factor to match load you can HALF the current to MOT easy.

TO stop bulbs burning out use Glass Discharge Tubes GDT's rated 10 amp 250 volt and wire across every bulb and load to prevent over volts.


Across the large KAP coil add plenty of uF may need 150uf use motor RUN caps run several in series to handle the voltage this will drop HF towards 50Hz operation will stop bulb flicker and allow to run other devices like large transformers and large AC motors.

Its better to use this KAP device to run large 3-7 HP   3 phase AC motor in Rotoverter Mode which will provide ultra clean stable power 3kw-5kw  50-60Hz at 120 - 240 single or 480v single and 3 phase anything you want basically. Its cheap cost only couple hundred bucks at most. Rotoverter is already OU device and will IMPROVE whatever fed into it unlike normal motor.

This is by FAR the cheapest way to get this power cleaned up and stable for house use on electronics devices etc. All fluctuations, noise, voltage and phase problems solved.

bolt,  Thanks for your contributions.  You seem to have a lot of good suggestions.  Do have something successfully working?  I do question one statement above in saying to put GDT's AND a wire across each bulb or load.  Yes good idea on the GDT's but a wire across each bulb?  An average 60 watt bulb has about 20 Ohms resistance cold but putting a wire with near zero Ohms across it will short it out unless we are really getting 'cold electricity' here and that doesn't seem to be the case. 

[bolt]

i don't mean add a wire across i mean add a GDT across each bulb or load is standard practice. Don Smith devices use a lot of GDT's for controlling various systems voltages.