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Overunity Machines Forum



STEORN DEMO LIVE & STREAM in Dublin, December 15th, 10 AM

Started by PaulLowrance, December 04, 2009, 09:13:07 AM

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Bruce_TPU

#1950
January 19, 2010, 11:57:44 PM
Good evening ALL,

My build continues with video's part 4 and 5:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ndzptHJA50

AND

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MDQ18DVhzI

Cheers,

Bruce
1.  Lindsay's Stack TPU Posted Picture.  All Wound CCW  Collectors three turns and HORIZONTAL, not vertical.

2.  3 Tube amps, sending three frequency's, each having two signals, one in-phase & one inverted 180 deg, opposing signals in each collector (via control wires). 

3.  Collector is Magnetic Loop Antenna, made of lamp chord wire, wound flat.  Inside loop is antenna, outside loop is for output.  First collector is tuned via tuned tank, to the fundamental.  Second collector is tuned tank to the second harmonic (component).  Third collector is tuned tank to the third harmonic (component)  Frequency is determined by taking the circumference frequency, reducing the size by .88 inches.  Divide this frequency by 1000, and you have your second harmonic.  Divide this by 2 and you have your fundamental.  Multiply that by 3 and you have your third harmonic component.  Tune the collectors to each of these.  Input the fundamental and two modulation frequencies, made to create replicas of the fundamental, second harmonic and the third.

4.  The three frequency's circulating in the collectors, both in phase and inverted, begin to create hundreds of thousands of created frequency's, via intermodulation, that subtract to the fundamental and its harmonics.  This is called "Catalyst".

5.  The three AC PURE sine signals, travel through the amplification stage, Nonlinear, producing the second harmonic and third.  (distortion)

6.  These signals then travel the control coils, are rectified by a full wave bridge, and then sent into the output outer loop as all positive pulsed DC.  This then becomes the output and "collects" the current.

P.S.  The Kicks are harmonic distortion with passive intermodulation.  Can't see it without a spectrum analyzer, normally unless trained to see it on a scope.

PaulLowrance

#1951
January 20, 2010, 12:52:19 AM
Quote from: EBISEVAC on January 19, 2010, 11:44:05 PM
@Paul
I need your help. I am doing something wrong but I can't see it. My rotor is motor from hard drive with 3.5" pvc pipe cap (from Homedepot)  and 4 neo magnets, all north pole facing out. I have 3 black 1" toroids. First has windings with #30 wire, 5H, 10 Ohm and probably 600 windings (dual winding like Ossie's), second is 67 windings (dual winding like Ossie's) of #26 wire, 234mH and 0.6 Ohm, third is 67 windings (one wire) of #26 wire, 0.6 Ohms and 225mH. I tried Ossie's high power circuit (with 2n3055), Ossie's low power circuit and your circuit all with only one toroid. It will run only with high power circuit and it consumes lots of power. All runs were done with 12V battery and for first toroid consumption is 0.3A, for other two is 1.7A. When I am using your circuit my hall sensor gets so hot after 2 seconds that I have to turn it off.
Thanks,
Erkan

I don't see why the hall sensor would get hot. My circuit connects the hall sensor as specified with its specs. All I can say is just recheck every thing. Maybe make a youtube video so everyone can see it.

Jimboot

#1952
January 20, 2010, 03:52:15 AM
No where near Paul "look at the size of my RPMs" LOwrance et al, but hey I'm a noob. Bought a tacho 2day, changed rotors and I'm getting 1000 RPMs out of my tri coil/mag setup. :) pretty happy with that as a start. Thanks all.  Edit: Here's the vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbWrmfhVUAQ

Jimboot

#1953
January 20, 2010, 07:18:12 AM
Not having any joy with a hall circuit. I've tried a UGN3503 running at 6V (not sure if I've done it right) but I've powered it separately to the rest of circuit running on 12V. The UGN3503 is only rated too 6V. The other hall sensor that I can get locally is not suitable for my rig. It is an ignition sensor. Based on @pl's circuit my mosfet gets hot (burnt my finger) There is V thru the coil. The coils get warm but my sensor does not seem to switch.

callanan

#1954
January 20, 2010, 07:36:44 AM
Quote from: Jimboot on January 20, 2010, 07:18:12 AM
Not having any joy with a hall circuit. I've tried a UGN3503 running at 6V (not sure if I've done it right) but I've powered it separately to the rest of circuit running on 12V. The UGN3503 is only rated too 6V. The other hall sensor that I can get locally is not suitable for my rig. It is an ignition sensor. Based on @pl's circuit my mosfet gets hot (burnt my finger) There is V thru the coil. The coils get warm but my sensor does not seem to switch.

Hi Jimboot,

Using the UGN3503, put a 10K from the mosfet gate to the positive of your 12V supply and another 10K from the mosfet gate to the ground. Then connect the output from the hall sensor directly to the mosfet gate. Power the hall sensor from a seperate 6V supply but make sure the ground of this supply is connected to the ground of the mosfet supply. This should work as it has worked for me using an IRF1405 mosfet.

Don't forget that hall sensors are magnetic polarity sensitive to N or S in reference to their front face or back face.

Regards,

Ossie

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