Overunity.com Archives is Temporarily on Read Mode Only!



Free Energy will change the World - Free Energy will stop Climate Change - Free Energy will give us hope
and we will not surrender until free energy will be enabled all over the world, to power planes, cars, ships and trains.
Free energy will help the poor to become independent of needing expensive fuels.
So all in all Free energy will bring far more peace to the world than any other invention has already brought to the world.
Those beautiful words were written by Stefan Hartmann/Owner/Admin at overunity.com
Unfortunately now, Stefan Hartmann is very ill and He needs our help
Stefan wanted that I have all these massive data to get it back online
even being as ill as Stefan is, he transferred all databases and folders
that without his help, this Forum Archives would have never been published here
so, please, as the Webmaster and Creator of these Archives, I am asking that you help him
by making a donation on the Paypal Button above.
You can visit us or register at my main site at:
Overunity Machines Forum



Magnet motor in Argentina

Started by Jdo300, March 19, 2006, 12:46:30 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 7 Guests are viewing this topic.

silverdragonrs

I figured out how to cut magnets

it is a lot like cutting glass. scar the magnet pretty good on both sides and break. then use a file to smooth it out. don't use impact (a hammer or such) to break it as impact often weakens a magnet if not ruining it all together. just keep scarring it untill you can break it with your hands. as for really thick magnets i have not tryed (dont have any) this technique has worked every time for me on magnets up to 1/2 inch thick so far. if you are trying to create an angled cut just use the file or use a dremel. the seperation/cut has to be fast becuase once you cut it through then the oposing poles will cause stress and often cause breakage.

danny
I would like to quote my idol... if you please.. press any key now.. "Anykey?!, Where's the N E Key?" ~ Homer Simpson ~ ......... one day.. With lotsa hard work and dedication.. I .. will be this good.. :)

silverdragonrs

the rotor cap lid is simple to make

use the bottom of a pop can (aluminum is nonmagnetic i think... havent checked) then use a rubber malet and a round pipe to shape the curve. use a file on the edges

not very scientific but it will work.
I would like to quote my idol... if you please.. press any key now.. "Anykey?!, Where's the N E Key?" ~ Homer Simpson ~ ......... one day.. With lotsa hard work and dedication.. I .. will be this good.. :)

silverdragonrs

tao.... and for those of us who did not attend harvard that means.......??? :)

sorry to be more specific.... i can figure out some of that but to begin with could you give me a basic breakdown of what 5Nm is and means and compare it to something common

also what is the aprox HP of this device based on your present figures and are those rpm's reasonable.... I don't know what the average rpm of an electric motor or anyother motor is so i have nothing to compare your figures to.

sorry for all the trouble guys i do not have the education you all appearently have. and as i said i am just beggining in this feild of study. i hope i am not getting on your nerves i know how it can be....

danny
I would like to quote my idol... if you please.. press any key now.. "Anykey?!, Where's the N E Key?" ~ Homer Simpson ~ ......... one day.. With lotsa hard work and dedication.. I .. will be this good.. :)

Omnibus

tao, thanks a lot for the FEMM graphs and for the calculations. Sounds very promising. Will have to understand better the FEMM program, however, and what the optimum model would be.

Omnibus

So, tao, the tendencies so far in the design are to have a whole round rotor magnet, magnetized along the diameter, as in your Bryce drawing (the one with parts made of wood) and rectangular stator magnets. This would provide a better torque than the design with the three (or four) separate rotor magnets, correct?