How to build a gravity wheel.

[AB Hammer]

Vidar

The reason for removal of the grease in the bearings is for the test wheels. This way if you finds continuous action you will be able to build up from there. In a small test wheel this will allow a more positive understanding of what you are doing, and not a misunderstanding thinking you may not have a non runner due to stiff bearings. When you build the larger wheels this is not as much a problem. 

Alan

PS I like wheels that can overcome allot of friction and have plenty of energy over that as well. 

[Cloxxki]

I agree. So often I read about gravity wheels that they "almost" ran by themselves. Well, a beam stuck to an axle comes even closer.

All my life, since a little boy really, I've been bugged by friction, as it should be somehow used to work FOR us, not against us. Friction is so powerful, and easy to obtain. It is NOT nothing, it just always has the opposite agenda to our devices, making them work less efficiently.

Enter: the DDWFTTW technology, proven beyond doubt now by the Blackbird team of California. Wheels on a vehicle, pushed along by the tail wind, are geared to also turn a propellor, in airplane mode. Yes, the prop takes energy from the wheels. Yet, adds more thrust. Cart accelerates past wind speed, and already they attained 2.86x wind speed, travelling dead down wind. This is not over unity, it's tapping into the power of the wind, and having a low-loss vehicle to exploit it.
If a similar trick could be pulled on gravity rather than the wind, there is hope.
A cart rolling down a hill, thereby powering a prop on the back geared that little bit higher, maybe...?

Our energy dependency better not "depend" on gravity wheels, just yet. :-)

[AB Hammer]

Cloxxki

  Good point Sticking, and binding parts cause allot of problems and scissor jacks are one of the worst for this.  Sticking, and binding parts are cause in most cases by twisting parts causing the sticky friction effect. The answer to this is to build with arms and leavers in pairs. This equals out allowing the action to take place. When boring holes in would you might find it good to use brass and copper bushings to reduce friction and only make it as close to the exact size without being tight so you will have an oil-able bushing bearing effect. When boring steel you may want to use some fine emery cloths in the hole to smooth it off as well. Don't round the inner edge of the hole but just enough to take of the sharp edge.

If you have a hole to loose on the fulcrum of the device used. You may cause vibration or what some call a chatter effect. This is bad, anytime this happens.

Alan

[Pirate88179]

Or just use ceramic.  Partially stabilized zirconium oxide to be specific.  Ceramic on ceramic has the lowest coefficient of friction measured to date.  ***EDIT***  Also, no need to lubricate as this actually increases the friction.

Bill

[AB Hammer]

Or just use ceramic.  Partially stabilized zirconium oxide to be specific.  Ceramic on ceramic has the lowest coefficient of friction measured to date.  ***EDIT***  Also, no need to lubricate as this actually increases the friction.

Bill

Greetings Bill

That is a very good suggestion. Thanks! I have a couple of them in my surplus but when I did some pricing some of them where high cost. Do you know where we could find them at a reasonable cost?

I guess that the removing of the grease is the cheep way. I get most of my bearings for less than 3 dollars each. and if I find some rollerskates at a yard sell. I can get several for a lot less. But when it comes to build the next wheel after the test wheel. It will be well worth the cost of the ceramic bearings.

Thanks again Bill

Alan

edited rollerskating. Well I kind of miss rollerskating